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REFEBIiM'ESTIITIIfiinP. 


( 


TRAVELLERS'  0¥N  BOOK, 

TO 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

NIAGARA  FALLS  AND  CANADA, 

CONTAINING 

ROUTES,    DISTANCES,    CONVEYANCES,    EXPENSES, 
CSE   OK   MINERAL   WATERS,  BATHS,  DESCRIPTION  OF  SCENERY,  ETC. 

A  COMPLETE  GUIDE, 

FOR     THE  VALKTCDINARIAN    AND    FOR     TIIH     TOURIST, 
SEEKING    FOR     PLEASURE    AND    A.MUSLMENT. 

WITH    MAPS    AND    ENGRAVING  S. 


BY  S.   DE  VEAUX. 


And  slill  thou  dashest  in  thunder  down 
\Vilh  a  silver  robe  and  a  rainbow  crown. 


BUFFALO: 
FAXON    &    READ. 


1841 

3^ 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in    the  year  eighteen 
hundred  and  forty-one,  by 

FAXON  &  READ, 
in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Norlhern  District 
of  New-Yorlc. 


PRESS    OP  ROBT.    D.    FOY. 


TO    THE    PUBLIC. 


A  former  publication  of  the  author  on  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  having  been  very  favorably  received,  he  has 
been  induced  to  combine  with  it  another  subject,  aliko 
interesting  to  the  travelling  community.  He  has  cur- 
tailed and  revised  his  book  on  the  Falls,  and  added 
several  subjects  and  incidents,  of  late  occurrence. 

As  travellers  move  along,  it  is  a  satisfaction  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  names  of  places  —  to  have 
before  them  some  notice  or  remark  upon  them,  without 
the  trouble  of  inquiry;  and  when  arrived  at  the  spot  to 
which  the  tourist  had  directed  his  course,  a  directory 
at  hand,  as  this  book  is  intended  to  be,  to  point  out  to 
him  the  object  he  seeks  to  obtain,  or  the  scenes  of  in- 
terest he  came  to  view,  will  prove  to  him  a  valuable  desi- 
deratum. 

On  the  subject  of  the  mineral  waters  of  Saratoga, 
much  valuable  information,  as  to  their  qualities,  use,  and 
effects,  has  been  derived  from  highly  respectable  citizens 
of  that  place. 


IV. 

To  visitors  to  the  Springs,  who  generally  have  but 
little  leisure  to  look  over  medical  authorities,  and  but  small 
chance  of  gaming  correct  information  from  personal  in- 
quiry of  individuals  into  whose  company  they  happen 
to  fall,  this  compendium  will  prove  very  useful,  in  its 
cautions  and  directions  as  to  the  use  of  the  waters. 
Those  who  wish  to  investigate  further,  will  find  in 
these  pages  references  to  some  of  the  most  approved 
writers  on  these  subjects. 

As  not  unfitting  to  this  work,  the  author  has  thought 
proper  in  many  places,  to  introduce  some  subjects,  alone 
interesting  from  their  locality  —  incidents  of  border  war- 
fare —  and  descriptions  peculiar  to  the  two  great  points 
of  attraction  of  which  he  treats. 

The  author  flatters  himself  t'lat  his  publication  will 
not  only  perform  the  office  of  a  useful  and  faithful  guide 
to  travellers  while  on  their  tour,  but  that  it  will  also 
prove  an  agreeable  presont  to  friends  and  children, 
when  they  return  refreshed  to  their  homes. 

THE  AUTHOR. 
Niagara  Falls,  May,  1841. 


CONTENTS 


PART  I. 

page 
TooR  TO  Saratoga  Springs,  Niagara  Falls  and  Canada. 

Estimate  of  K.vpcnses 14 

The  tour  lieg:un 18 

Hud=ori  river  scenery 19 

Yonkers.  T!ipp:;ii.  e'c 20 

3Iount  Pleasant,  Sinjr  Sine,  et- 21 

The  Highlands.  West  Point,  e;c 22 

Pougiil<eepsie.  Hjde  Park,  etc 25 

Ci'.y  of  Alhany 28 

Route  to  the  Springs,  via  Schenecttidv 29 

"           "            "        via  Troy  .  .  . ." 30 

Tiansinshurgh.  Waterford,  etc 31 

Rou'e  from  vMhany  to  Niagara  Falls 32 

I.i'tle  p-alls,  Utica,  Syracuse,  etc 34 

Rouie  from  Syracuse,  by  canal,  to  Ninpara  Falls 3.3 

Railroad  from  Lockport  to  Niasrara  Falls 37 

Route  from  Syracuse,  hy  Lake  Ontario 38 

"                       "            l>y  Auhurn,  etc 39 

City  of  Buffiilo,  and  distances  from  thence  on  the  Lakes.  .  .  41 

Routes  from  Niagara  Falls  through  Canada 42 

Brantford.  Toronto,  etc 44 

Sacket's  Harhor.  Kingston,  etc 45 

Montreal,  Quebec,  etc 47 

Route  from  Albany  to  Boston 49 

PART  II. 

Jaunt  to  Saratoga  Springs. 

Arrival  at  the  Springs 53 

Visit  to  (;on2ress  Spring 54 

Hamilton,  Putnam  and  the  Pavilion  Springs 56 

Analvsis   of  the  waters 57 

Flat  Rock,  and  Monroe  Springs 58 

Hisfh  Rock  Spring 59 

Ballston  Spa 63 

Observations  on  mineral  waters 64 


VI. 

paee 

Their  use  as  a  drink,  and  medicinally 06 

"        "    in  tlie  bath,  and  batliing 68 

The  cold  balh "JO 

The  tepid  and  warm  bath 74 

The  vapor  bath 78 

Diseases  for  wliich  the  Saratoga  waters  are  recommended. .  8'i 

The  villiige  of  Saratoga 87 

Public  Houses 90 

Amusements 9L 

Covent  Garden,  gambling,  etc 92 

Rides,  balls,  and  assemblies 93 

Churches 94 

PART  in. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara,  Whirlpool,  Islands,  <S:c. 

Jaunt  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara .  .100 

Description  of  the  Falls 104 

Inquiries   answered 108 

Names  and  initials  on  the  rocks  and  trees Ill 

Mists  around  the  Falls,  and  optical  illusions 112 

Francis  Abbott,  the  hermit 114 

Alexander's  leap 122 

Fish  and  angling 124 

Hunting  grounds  and  game > 120 

Road  down  the  bank 127 

Point  View 130 

Village  of  Niagara  Falls 132 

Rides  of  pleasure 134 

Jaunt  to  Iris  and  other  islands 139 

The  bridge  to  the  island 142 

Bath  island 145 

A  daring  enterprise 146 

Prospect  island 149 

Ingraham's  Cave 150 

The  Biid'e  staircase 151 

Horse  Shoe  Falls 152 

Prospect  Tower 153 

Impressions  of  visitors 154 

Winter  scenery 156 

Shrubs  and  pi  "nts 158 

Vessels  sent  over  the  Falls , 159 

Moss  island 161 

The  Low  Family :163 

William  Chambers 165 

Expedition  to  Navy  island,  and  steamboat  Caroline 167 

Owanunga,  or  Grand  island 170 

Jaunt  to  the  Whirlpool 177 

Gad  Pierce.  Esq 179 

Mineral  Sprins 181 

Description  of  the  Whirlpool 182 

Benjamin  Raihbun 195 


VII. 

Battle  of  the  Devil's  Hole -icTl 

Tuscarora  Indians 204 

Little  Chief -205 

Indian  adventure 207 

Esi-npe  from  Indians 209 

Lewiston 211 

Five  mile  meadow 213 

Fort  Niagara 214 

William  Morgan 217 

John  Carroll 218 

Jaunt  to  Canapa 221 

View  from  the  stairs 223 

Perilous  descent  of  the  ladder 22.) 

Catlin's  Cave 22rt 

Villairc  of  Clifton 22,S 

Tabic  Rock 230 

Passing  under  the  siicet  of  water 231 

Going  over  the  Falls 234 

Canal  hoat  inL-idcnt 23G 

Samuel  Slreet.     Col.  Clark 239 

City  of  the  Falls 241 

Drumniondville 242 

Brock's  [Monument 243 

Town  of  Niagara 24(> 

MlSCEF.I.ANKOt''*    NoTirFS. 

Medicinal  vi-^tu^s  of  t  lie  air    247 

Geology  of  Niagara  Falls 24S 

John  Downing  and  the  Whirlpool 249 

Death  of  Dr.  Hungerford 250 

A<lventure  among  the  rapi  Is 2.'>2 

Chrono'ogical  tal)lc  of  events  at  Niagara  Falls 2.)7 

Distances 25S 


Note. —  The  following   eheels   having   been  prepared 
during  the  past  winter,  the  rates  of  fare  are  inserted  as  es- 
tablished last  season.     On  the  following  routes  they  have 
this  year  been  reduced,  and  are  now  as  follows: 
New- York  to  Albany,  by  steamboat,  ^1,00,  board  extra. 
Syracuse  to  Rochester,  by  packets,  $3,00,  and  found. 
Rochester  to  Lockport,  "        $2,00     "         " 

«'         to  Buffalo,  "        ^2,75,    "         " 


ERRATA. 

Page  38,  9th  hne,  for  ''  63,"  read  "  87." 
'♦    45,  2d     "      for  "from,"  read  "to,"  and  for  "of," 

read  "  on." 
*•     73,  30th  line,  for   "  intemperance,"  read  "temper- 
ance." 
"■    78,  23d  line,  for  "wary,"  read  "  wavey." 
"     86,  26th  line,  for  "  fount,"  read  "  forest." 
"    126,  14th  hne,  for   "some  kind,"  read   "  the  same 

kinds." 
"    188,    9th  line,  for  "  bridge,"  read  "  lodge." 
"    196,  16th  line,  for  "  to  calling,"  read  "to  the  call- 
ing." 


PART  I 


THE    TOURIST. 


CONTAINING 


HINTS  TO  TRAVELLERS, 

ROUTES,  DISTANCES,  COxNVEYANCES, 

EXPENSES, 

DESCRIPTION  OF  SCENERY, 
&c.  &c. 


TO  TRAVELLERS. 

ESTIMATE    OF    EXPENSES,    AXD    OTHER    HINTS. 
"  Put  money  in  thy  purse." 

In  concluding  upon  a  tour  of  business,  of  pleasure,  or 
of  health  to  Saratoga  Springs,  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  or 
to  both  of  these  places,  among  other  calculations  and 
arrangements  it  is  customary  to  make  some  suitable  pro- 
vision for  the  expenses,  to  consider  the  modes  of  con- 
veyance, to  count  over  the  distances,  and  to  know  the 
leiigth  of  time  that  the  journey  v^all  require. 

Money.  —  This  potent  talisman,  this  charm  more  pow- 
erful than  the  sorcerer's  wand,  must  be  the  first  object  of 
the  traveller's  attention.  A  sufficient  amount  must  be 
appropriated  ;  select  such  a  stock  of  bank  bills  as  will  go 
currently  through  the  country  you  intend  to  pass.  In  the 
State  of  New- York,  Safety  Fund  and  the  General  Bank 
bills,  which  on  the  Bank  Note  List  stand  at  no  higher 
discount  than  2  per  cent,  will  answer  to  pay  expenses. 
Upper  Canada  bills  in  the  Upper  Province,  and  Lower 
Canada  bills  in  the  Lower,  will  do  the  best.  Let  your 
bills  be  a  mixture  of  small  and  large,  that  you  may 
2 


14  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Bajrgagc  —  Choice  of  Berths. 

always  be  supplied  with  change.  It  will  be  bad  policy 
to  carry  with  you  foreign,  uncurrent,  or  doubtful  bills, 
unless  you  are  disposed  to  quarrel  with  all  to  w^hom  you 
pay  money,  and  to  pass  as  a  suspicious  character.  Keep 
a  few  dollars  in  your  wallet  for  present  use,  and  the'resi- 
due  of  your  money  in  some  secure  place  about  your  person. 

Baggage.  —  Let  it  be  as  compact,  and  in  as  small  a 
compass  as  possible.  Have  your  trunks  firmly  made  and 
well  strapped,  and  painted  on  them  your  initials,  or  full 
name,  with  place  of  residence,  in  fair  white  characters. 
If  you  travel  alone,  a  simple  valise  or  cloak  bag  only,  will 
cause  you  to  feel  very  independent.  The  company  of 
ladies  will  greatly  increase  your  baggage;  not  only  band- 
boxes will  be  added,  but  one  or  two  large  trunks  for  every 
lady.  Never  carry  with  you  what  is  superfluous,  but  just 
what  is  sufficient.  A  cloak,  or  over-coat,  should  not  be 
omitted.  Paul  Pry's  indispensable,  an  umbrella,  can  be 
purchased  any  where  on  your  route;  and  almost  every 
other  small  article  that  you  may  require.  Put  up  no 
pills,  and  take  no  medicine  while  travelling.  Stop  when 
you  consider  medicine  necessary.  Never  lose  sight  of 
your  baggage  unless  it  is  locked  up. 

Steam-Boats.  —  Always  engage  your  passage  as  soon 
as  you  can.  The  farther  your  berth  is  from  the  boilers 
the  more  safe  and  pleasant  it  will  be.  If  you  come  on 
board  late  and  should  not  like  the  remaining  berths,  or  a 
settee,  insist  upon  having  one  of  the  reserved  berths. 
When  you  go  at  an  early  hour  on  board  of  a  steamboat, 
and  find  a  long  list  of  names  in  the  same  hand  writing, 
apparently  engaging  all  the  best  berths  of  the  boat,  such 
as  "Mr.  Dram,"  "Mr.  Lane,"  and  "ditto,"  "ditto," 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  15 

Railroad  Cars  —  Packet  Boats. 

or  some  similar  device,  you  may  be  sure  that  it  is  ficti- 
tious. This  is  an  every  day  practice;  and  in  this  way 
acquaintances  and  favorites  enjoy  the  best  berths,  and  the 
uninitiated  traveller  has  to  put  up  with  what  he  can  get. 

Railroad  Cars.  —  The  cars  from  the  engine  to  the 
centre  have  the  least  motion,  and  are  considered  the 
easiest,  and  those  in  the  rear  the  safest.  But  in  these, 
or  in  other  respects,  upon  railroads,  there  is  little  choice. 
Very  little  advice  can  be  given  as  to  avoiding  accidents. 
Do  not  suffer  yourself  to  sleep  in  the  cars;  take  your 
seats  before  the  cars  start,  and  do  not  get  out  until  they 
have  stopped.  Always  ascertain  the  hour  of  starting  and 
be  on  the  ground  a  few  minutes  before.  Ever  have  your 
eyes  around  you,  and  keep  out  of  harm's  way.  Never 
ride  upon  railroads  in  the  night,  unless  it  is  really  neces- 
sary that  you  should  hasten  your  journey.  Railroad 
travelling  at  night  is  very  uncomfortable,  and  is  attended 
with  more  danger  than  during  the  day. 

Packet  Boats.  —  Enter  your  name  as  soon  as  you  get 
on  board,  that  you  may  have  a  berth  if  you  should  remain 
over  night.  Do  not  put  your  head  out  of  the  cabin  win- 
dows; keep  below  as  much  as  practicable,  and  when  on 
deck  look  ahead  for  the  bridges,  and  before  passing  them 
come  down  on  the  lower  after  deck.  For  the  feeble,  and 
those  who  are  worn  out  with  fatigue,  the  canal  boat  af- 
fords the  best  accommodations.  It  glides  along  so  quietly 
that  you  can  repose  and  slumber  as  undisturbedly  as  in 
your  own  chamber. 

Stage  Coaches.  —  Of  these  old  fashioned  conveyances 
little  need  be  said.  Ladies  are  always  accommodated 
with  the  back  seat.     The  middle  seat  is  the  easiest,  the 


16  TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Fare  —  Price  of  board. 

front  seat  the  best  to  sleep  on;  but  if  you  are  subject  to 
sickness  when  riding,  always  avoid  it.  Post  coaches,  if 
not  crowded  with  too  many  passengers,  over  good  roads, 
in  fair  weather,  afford  the  most  safe  and  agreeable  mode 
of  transit  of  any  other;  but  the  fly-away  character  of 
travellers  is  fast  driving  them  out  of  use.  From  these 
vehicles  the  scenery  of  the  country  can  always  be  advan- 
tageously viewed;  and  as  the  wheels  roll  on,  the  hours 
pass  in  social  chat,  free  remark,  amusing  anecdotes  and 
gay  sallies,  often  truly  pleasant  and  interesting. 

Newspapers.  —  On  leaving  a  city,  or  other  place  of 
importance,  before  the  boat  or  cars  move  off,  buy  the 
latest  and  most  interesting  papers. .  On  meeting  another 
boat,  or  train  of  cars,  have  some  papers  ready  to  exchange. 
In  this  w^ay,  as  you  will  generally  travel  in  advance  of 
the  mail,  you  will  ever  find  yourself  iu  possession  of  the 
latest  news.  On  board  of  boats  and  at  public  houses  leave 
papers,  but  abstract  none.  Destroying  and  stealing  news- 
papers is  not  an  original  Yankee  practice.  That  Vandal- 
ism, with  others  of  a  like  nature,  should  be  frowned 
down. 

From  New-York  to  Saratoga,  via  Albany  and  Troy, 
the  highest  rate  of  fare  usually  charged  is  $4,75.  The 
lowest  rate  will  amount  to  very  little  more  than  half  that 
sum.     By  the  v/ay  of  Schenectady  it  may  cost  $5. 

The  traveller  may  leave  New- York  in  the  afternoon 
steamboat,  and  be  in  Saratoga  the  next  day  before  dinner; 
and  if  he  pleases  may  be  back  again  in  New- York  the 
succeeding  morning,  having  accomplished  his  visit  in  36 
hours. 

Without  reference  to  baggage  and  superfluities,  $5,75 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  17 

Different  Routes,  and  cost. 

is  an  ample  sum  to  pay  all  necessary  expenses  from  New- 
York  to  Saratoga. 

At  Saratoga  the  price  of  board  per  week  is  from  ^10  to 
$12,  at  the  best  hotels;  and  per  day  from  $1,50  to  $2. 

The  other  public  houses  charge  from  $4  to  $7  per 
week;  and  from  $1  to  $1,25  per  day. 

Private  boarding  houses,  of  which  there  are  a  great 
number,  charge  from  $3  to  $12  per  week. 

Of  other  expenses  at  the  Springs,  it  is  unnecessary  to 
speak;  they  may  be  moderate  or  extravagant,  according 
to  the  notions  or  character  of  the  individual.  As  the  pri- 
ces of  provisions  have  fallen,  the  cost  of  living  to  travel- 
lers, it  is  expected,  will  be  reduced. 

From  the  city  of  New- York  to  Niagara  Falls,  or  to  the 
city  of  Buffalo,  to  the  ordinary  traveller  or  tourist,  the 
usual  expense,  when  the  journey  is  performed  direct,  by 
steamboats,  railroads,  stages  and  packets,  will  be  between 
$20  and  $22,  and  will  include  all  that  is  respectable  and 
necessary. 

Three  days  is  as  short  a  time  as  should  be  allowed  for 
the  journey.  Those  who  are  interested  in  different  routes 
advertise  a  shorter  period,  but  it  is  very  seldom  done  in 
less  than  three  days,  and  is  frequently  more.  Travelling 
even  at  such  a  rate,  is  often  more  faH.iguing  than  pleasant. 

The  expenses  of  living  at  Niagara  Falls,  and  Buflalo, 
varies  but  little  from  the  like  expenses  at  Saratoga,  ex- 
cepting at  some  of  the  most  fashionable  Hotels;  and  those 
being  equal  to  similar  establishments  in  New- York  city, 
are  not  backward  in  imitating  them  in  their  bills;  bank 
note  paper,  beautiful  vignette,  copy  hand,  round  numbers. 

There  is  an  economical  mode  of  conveyance  that  it  may 
2* 


18  TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Steamboats  from  A'ew-Vork. 

be  interesting  for  emigrants  and  those  travellers  wlio 
study  economy  more  than  speed,  to  know:  it  is  by  the 
steam  tow  boats  on  the  Hudson  river,  and  freight  boats 
on  the  canal. 

By  one  line  the  passenger  is  carried  through  from  New- 
York  to  Buffalo  in  six  days,  with  board,  for  $11,  and 
without  board  for  $7,50. 

On  another  line  he  is  carried  through  in  seven  days, 
without  board,  for  $6,50. 

On  board  of  the  freight  boats  the  passage  per  mile, 
is  IJ  cent,  and  2  cents  with  board. 

The  fare  on  board  of  the  packet  boats,  with  board,  is 
usually  4  cents  per  mile. 


THE    TOUR    BEGUN. 

"  Land  of  the  forest  and  tlie  rock— 

Of  dark  blue  lake  and  mighty  river  ; 
Of  mountains  rear'd  aloft  to  mock 
The  storm's  career,  tlie  lightning's  shock — 
My  own  green  laud  forever  1 
Land  of  the  beautiful  and  brave, 
The  freeman's  home,  tlie  martyr's  grave." 

Much  of  the  information  that  follows  has  been  obtained 
from  actual  observation  and  experience;  the  residue  has 
been  gathered  from,  and  collated  with  the  best  autho- 
rities. 

The  usual  mode  of  conveyance  to  Albany  is  by  steam- 
boats.    Several  pass  and  re- pass  every  day.     The  passen- 


NIAGARA    PALL8    AND    CANADA.  19 

AVeehawken  —  Bull's  Ferry. 

ger  boats  start  in  New- York  from  the  foot  of  Courtland 
street,  and  from  the  foot  of  Barclay  street.  In  Albany 
they  start  from  the  pier  at  the  foot  of  State  street,  and  at 
the  foot  of  Hamilton  street.  The  day  boats  go  at  6 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  the  night  boats  at  5  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon.  The  fare  through  is  commonly  $3, 
meals  extra,  50  cents.  Competition  sometimes  carries 
the  fare  down  to  50  cents. 

Besides  the  passenger  boats  there  are  also  several  freight 
or  tow  boats,  which  pass  daily  between  the  two  cities. 
Their  price  is  $1  for  passage,  and  meals  extra,  or  the 
passenger  finds  himself. 

To  those  who  have  never  been  up  the  Hudson,  a  day 
passage  is  recommended.  Always  to  sleep  in  passing  over 
this  noblest  of  rivers,  and  to  loose  the  view  of  the  varie- 
gated scenery  along  its  banks,  evinces  an  unpardonable 
apathy  to  the  beauties  of  nature  and  the  improvements 
of  man. 

Wechawken,  New-Jersey,  3  miles  from  New- York, 
and  145  from  Albany,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river 
—  it  commands  a  fme  view  of  the  city.  The  range 
of  rocks  called  the  Palisadocs,  begin  to  make  their  ap- 
pearance here,  and  continue  22  miles.  The  Monument 
where  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with  Aaron 
Burr,  is  observed  near  the  water's  edge.  In  former  days 
when  duelling  was  more  practiced  by  the  citizens  of  New- 
York  than  it  happily  is  at  present,  this  spot  was  the  cho- 
sen place  for  settling  points  of  honor. 

Bull's  Ferry,  west  side,  New-Jersey,  is  10  miles  from 
New- York,  and  138  from  Albany.  Near  this  place  the 
Palisadoes  begin  to  assume  a  perpendicular  attitude  of 
from  3  to  400  feet. 


20  TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Fort  Lee  —  Yonkers  —  Pierpoiit. 

Fort  Lee,  11  miles  from  New- York,  and  137  from  Al- 
bany, on  the  brow  of  the  Palieadoes,  300  feet  from  the 
water.  Opposite,  on  York  Island,  are  the  vestiges  of 
Fort  Washington.  In  the  Revolution,  a  sunken  chevaux 
de  frise  extended  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the  other. 

Yonkers,  or  Phiilipsburgh,  east  side,  Westchester  co. 
N.  Y.  is  16  miles  from  New- York,  and  132  from  Albany. 
The  spire  of  the  church,  and  a  mere  glimpse  of  the  vil- 
lage is  obtained  as  the  steamboat  passes  hastily  along. 
Here  still  stands  the  substantial  old  mansion  house  of 
the  Phillips  family,  once  the  head  of  Phillips'  manor; 
and  a  venerable  English  church,  still  occupied  by  an 
Episcopal  congregation,  many  of  them  the  descendants 
of  the  first  settlers.  A  fine  mill  stream  puts  into  the 
Hudson.  The  formation  of  the  ground,  and  the  large 
fruit  and  shade  trees  that  cluster  around,  make  this  a 
beautiful  place. 

Between  this  and  the  city  of  New- York,  the  river  on 
the  east  side,  with  the  exception  of  some  rough  and  rocky 
heights,  is  lined  with  highly  cultivated  farms  and  splen- 
did country  seats. 

Tappan,  west  side,  Rockland  co.  N.  Y.  is  23  miles 
from  New- York,  and  125  from  Albany.  From  hence  to 
its  source,  the  whole  course  of  the  Hudson  is  through 
the  State  of  New- York.  Tappan  village  is  hid  from 
view. 

Pierpont,  west  side,  Rockland  co.  N.  Y.  is  25  miles 
from  New- York,  and  123  from  Albany.  The  great 
southern  railroad,  which  is  to  extend  to  Lake  Erie, 
commences  at  this  place.  Here  the  river  expands  to 
three  miles  in  width  and  used  to  be  called  Tappan  sea;  it 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  21 

teing  Sing  Prisoii  —  Anthony's  Nose, 

is  now   less  dignified,  and  is  only  termed    Tappan  bay. 
Not  far  from  this  village,  Major  Andre  was  executed. 

Tarrytown,  east  side,  26  miles  from  New- York,  and 
122  from  Albany  —  Noted  as  the  place  where  Major  An- 
dre was  captured. 

Above  Tarrytown,  and  extending  to  Sing  Sing,  there 
rises  from  the  shore  on  the  east  side,  Mount  Pleasant,  a 
commanding  and  delightful  tract,  presenting  from  the 
river  a  most  beautiful  prospect  of  rural  scenery. 

Sing  Sing,  east  side,  Westchester  co.  32  miles  from 
New- York,  and  116  from  Albany,  is  the  location  of  one 
of  the  New- York  State  Prisons.  It  was  built  by  the 
convicts  from  the  marble  got  from  the  premises.  The 
Croton  Acqueduct,  which  is  to  supply  the  city  of  New- 
York  with  water,  commences  near  this  place. 

Havcrslraw,  west  side,  Rockland  co.  38  miles  from 
New- York,  and  110  from  Albany.  The  river  in  front 
is  called  Haverstraw  bay.  Further  up  the  river,  in  this 
township,  are  vestiges  of  Stony  Point,  and  Forts  Clin- 
ton and  Montgomery,  famous  in  the  events  of  the  Rev- 
olution. 

Croton,  east  side,  Westchester  co. 
Cortland,      *'  " 

Peekekill,  east  side,  Westchester  co.  44  miles  from  New 
York,  and  104  from  Albany. 

The  last  mentioned  village  is  a  thriving  place.  Ver- 
planck's  Point  is  in  the  same  township,  upon  which  once 
stood  Fort  Fayette,  now  scarcely  discernable. 

Anthony's  Nose,  on  the  east  side,  44  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  104  from  Albany,  a  high  bluff  of  1128  feet. 
In  former   days,  before  steamboats   abolished    time    and 


22  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

"West  Point  —  Military  Academy. 

space  in  travelling,  the  passing  of  the  nose  was  to  the 
navigators  of  the  Hudson,  what  crossing  the  line  is  to 
sailors  on  the  ocean;  the  novice  was  obliged  to  pay  a 
forfeit,  which  was  devoted  to  the  increase  of  red  noses. 
It  is  not  contended  by  those  who  have  seen  this  promon- 
tory that  it  has  any  gi*eat  resemblance  to  a  nose. 

The  river  narrows  in  passing  through  the  Highlands, 
which  extends  nearly  12  miles,  presenting  on  each  side 
noble  and  picturesque  scenes;  high  acclivities,  sloping 
heights,  and  deep  ravines,  advance  and  recede  before  the 
spectator  as  the  boat  drives  along. 

West  Point,  west  side.  Orange  co.  Fort  Putnam,  53 
miles  from  New- York,  and  95  from  Albany.  At  this 
memorable  place  in  the  Revolution,  there  was  a  chain 
stretched  across  the  river,  intended  to  cut  off  the  nav- 
igation from  below;  but  the  British  in  1777,  succeeded 
in  removing  it,  and  passed  up  the  river  as  far  as  the 
village  of  Kingston,  which  they  mercilessly  burnt.  The 
Military  Academy  was  established  here  in  1802.  250 
students  are  only  admitted.  The  sons  of  revolutionary 
officers  have  the  first  claim;  those  of  deceased  officers  of 
the  last  war  the  second.  Pupils  are  only  admitted  be- 
tween the  ages  of  14  and  22.  There  are  30  Professors. 
A  cadet  costs  the  government  $336  annually.  The  period 
of  study  is  4  years.  They  encamp  6  or  8  weeks  each 
year.  A  well  kept  hotel  is  established  at  West  Point, 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors. 

It  may  be  justly  observed  as  respects  the  Military 
Academy  —  its  operation  is,  on  one  hand,  to  make  scien- 
tific and  patrician  officers,  and  on  the  other  degraded  and 
plebian   soldiers.     For  republicans,  the   present  military 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  23 

31ilkary  Aciideiny. 

syeteni  is  a  bad  one,  altogether  incompatible  with  the 
principles  of  democracy;  principles  so  dearly  cherished  by 
all  parties  of  the  American  people.  At  present,  the  sol- 
dier, however  meritorious  he  may  be,  is  cut  of  from  all 
chance  of  promotion,  and  all  appointments  to  office  are 
made  by  the  grace  and  favor  of  the  rich  and  influential. 
It  is  not  denied  but  that  the  present  officers  of  the  army 
are  highly  respectable;  equally  true  it  is,  that  the  private 
soldiers  are  in  the  very  lowest  state.  In  so  low  an  esti- 
mation is  the  army  held,  that  it  is  with  the  utmost  diffi- 
culty recruits  are  obtained  to  fill  the  ranks  of  the  present 
small  establishment.  Do  away  with  favoritism;  let  the 
government  make  every  fort  and  garrison  a  military 
school;  allow  of  no  promotion  except  from  the  ranks:  "He 
that  would  command,  must  first  learn  to  serve;"  and  the 
profession  would  soon  become  honorable.  There  would 
be  no  need  of  increasing  the  pay,  of  giving  bounties,  or 
of  drumming  up  for  recruits  in  the  present  vulgar  way, 
at  taverns  and  grog  shops.  A  five  years  term  of  service 
would  be  but  a  course  of  education  mixed  with  military 
duties.  Study,  and  the  pursuits  of  useful  knowledge, 
would  take  the  place  of  idleness  and  dissipation;  and  the 
army,  instead  of  being  shunned  as  the  last  resource  of  the 
most  degraded,  would  soon  be  filled  with  the  elite  of  the 
brave  and  youthful  of  the  country.  Such  a  system  would 
not  only  be  novel,  but  great  and  exalting.  A  national 
army,  composed  of  the  youth  of  the  land,  emulating  each 
other  in  the  studies  to  fit  them  for  the  double  capacity  of 
citizens  and  soldiers;  forming  at  all  times  a  powerful  body 
of  men,  to  meet  the  exigencies  of  war;  or  in  peace,  to 
maintain  the  supremacy  of  the  laws  and  the  integrity 
of  the  Union. 


24  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Cold  Spring  —  Newburgli. 


Cold  Spring,  east  side,  Putnam  co.  53  miles  from 
New- York,  and  95  from  Albany.  The  West  Point  Foun- 
dry is  at  this  village.  Of  the  hills  in  this  part  of  the 
highlands,  Crow's  Nest,  on  the  west  side,  is  a  high  peak. 

Butter  Hill,  is  the  last  of  the  range  of  mounts  on  the 
west  side.     It  is  1589  feet  high. 

Bull  Hill,  on  the  east  side,  is  1486  feet. 

Break-neck  Hill,  on  the  east  side.  On  a  part  of  the 
rock  on  the  south  side,  there  is  a  fancied  resemblance  to 
the  human  countenance.     It  is  called  the  Turk's  face. 

New  Windsor,  on  the  west  side.  Near  this  village 
there  still  stands  a  house  in  which  General  Washington 
resided  with  his  family  nearly  all  the  winter  of  1774. 

Newburgh,  west  side,  62  miles  from  New- York,  and 
86  from  Albany.  It  is  the  half-shire  town  of  Orange 
CO.  A  fine  stream  of  water  spreads  over  this  township, 
and  affords  many  mill  privileges.  The  farmers  are 
wealthy — great  enterprise  is  the  distinguishing  trait  of 
the  citizens  of  Newburgh.  Many  roads  concentrate  at 
this  place,  and  much  business  is  done.  Large  quantities 
of  butter,  and  of  the  finest  quality,  are  here  shipped  for 
the  New- York  market.  The  place  has  a  fine  appearance 
from  the  river.  Passengers  to  the  southern  tier  of  coun- 
ties frequently  disembark  here,  and  take  the  Ithaca  stage, 
which  runs  daily. 

Fishkill  Landing,  east  side,  Dutchess  co.  62  miles  from 
New-Yofk,  and  86  from  Albany.  It  is  nearly  opposite 
Newburgh,  and  is  5  miles  from  Fishkill  village.  The 
Matteawan  Cotton  Factory  at  this  place,  gives  employ- 
ment to  300  persons. 

New   Hamburgh,    east  side,  Dutchess   co.    67    miles 


NIAGARA    PALLS    AND    CANADA.  25 

Poughkeepsie  —  Hyde  Park. 

from  New- York,  and  81  from  Albany.  This  is  an  active 
little  village,  with  a  good  landing,  store-houses,  draw- 
bridge, and  other  improvements  indicative  of  prosperity. 

Milton,  west  side,  Ulster  co.  68  miles  from  New- York, 
and  80  miles  from  Albany.  The  inhabitants  are  princi- 
pally descendants  of  English  famiUea  settled  here  at  an 
early  period. 

New  Paltz,  west  side,  Ulster  co.  70  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  78  from  Albany.  This  is  a  well  improved 
portion  of  country.  The  farms  are  good  and  well  cul- 
tivated. The  ijihabitants  are  of  Dutch  descent;  their 
ancestors  settled  here  as  long  ago  as  1670.  Substantial 
stone  houses  indicate  the  foresight  and  good  condition  of 
the  citizens. 

Poughkeepsie,  east  side,  76  miles  from  New- York,  and 
72  from  Albany.  It  is  the  county  town  of  Dutchess. 
The  principal  portion  of  the  village  is  hid  from  the 
river.  The  streets  are  neatly  laid  out,  and  shaded  with 
ornamental  trees.  A  fine  creek  with  many  mill  privile- 
ges, nm  along  the  north  part  of  the  village,  affording 
many  first  rate  sites  for  manufactories:  several  of  which 
are  already  in  successful  operation.  Poughkeepsie  stands 
among  the  foremost  river  towns  in  the  extent  of  its  bu- 
siness, and  wealth  of  its  inhabitants. 

Hyde  Park,  east  side,  Dutchess  co.  82  miles  from 
New- York,  and  66  from  Albany.  The  village  of  Hyde 
Park  is  near  the  centre  of  the  township,  but  there  are 
several  landing  places  on  the  river.  It  is  a  beautiful 
township  of  land,  and  noted  as  being  the  residence  of  se- 
veral gentlemen  of  eminence,  wealth  and  taste. 

Rhinebeck,  east  side,  Dutchess  co.  90  miles  from  New- 
3 


26  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Kingston  —  Catskill  MounUiins. 

York,  and  58  from  Albany.  It  was  settled  by  Germane 
at  an  early  day.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  tenants 
to  large  proprietors,  but  the  great  estates  are  frittering 
away,  and  the  number  of  freeholders  are  gradually  in- 
creasing. 

Kingston,  west  side,  Ulster  co.  90  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  58  from  Albany.  It  is  the  county  seat,  and 
lies  three  miles  west  of  the  Hudson  from  Kingston  Lan- 
ding, which  is  opposite  to  Rhinebeck.  Before  it  was 
burnt  by  the  British  in  1777,  it  was  called  Esopus.  It 
was  settled  by  the  Dutch,  in  1616.  On  the  south  bounds 
of  the  township  of  Kingston,  Walkill  creek  passes  into 
the  Rondout,  which  here  enters  the  Hudson.  One  mile 
from  the  river  is  the  termination  of  the  Delaware  and 
Hudson  canal. 

Lower  Red  Hook  Landing,  east  side,  Dutchess  co. 
is  96  miles  from  New- York,  and  52  from  Albany.  — 
There  is  an  Upper  Landing  of  this  name,  and  a  Post- 
Office  at  each.  The  township  is  wealthy,  and  among  its 
inhabitants  are  some  of  the  oldest  and  most  considerable 
names  of  the  State.  Several  branches  of  the  Livingston 
family  reside  here,  and  their  seats  are  distinguished  by 
choice  of  location  and  elegance  of  structure. 

Saugerties,  west  side,  Ulster  co.  103  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  45  from  Albany.  The  village  is  a  mile  west  of 
the  Landing. 

Catskill,  west  side,  Greene  co.  112  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  36  from  Albany.  A  line  of  stages  run  from 
here  to  Ithaca,  as  well  as  from  Newburgh.  Passengers 
intending  to  visit  the  Pine  Orchard,  which  is  distant 
about  9  miles  from  the  Hudson,  and  is  elevated  3000  feet 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  27 

Hudson  —  Athens  —  Overslaugh. 

above  tide  water,  disembark  at  this  place.  The  Moun- 
tain House,  and  the  majestic  scenery  of  the  Catskill 
Mountains,  are  much  frequented  by  travellers. 

The  city  of  Hudson,  east  side,  119  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  29  from  Albany,  is  the  capital  of  Columbia 
county.  Considerable  foreign  commerce  is  carried  on 
from  this  city,  and  especially  the  whaling  business  has 
been  prosecuted  with  much  energy.  Those  who  visit 
Lebanon  Springs,  and  the  Shaker's  village,  debark  here, 
and  take  the  Hudeon  and  Berkshire  railroad,  which  runs 
through  Lebanon,  and  conveys  passengers  to  the  Springe 
for  ^1,62^.  The  water  of  these  Springs  is  at  the  imiform 
temperature  of  72°  Fahrenheit.  It  is  agitated  by  a  con- 
stant emission  of  nitrogen  and  azotic  gas,  and  the  place  is 
becoming  one  of  considerable  resort. 

Athens,  119  miles  from  New- York,  and  29  from  Alba- 
dy,  lies  opposite  Hudson,  in  Greene  co.  It  is  incorpora- 
ted, and  the  village  rises  pleasantly  from  the  river.  Here 
is  the  close  of  ship  navigation. 

Coxsackie,  west  side,  Greene  co.  127  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  21  from  Albany. 

Kinderhook  Landing,  east  side,  Columbia  co.  132  miles 
from  New- York,  and  16  from  Albany. 

New  Baltimore,  west  side,  Greene  co.  134  miles  from 
New- York,  and  14  from  Albany. 

Coeymans,  west  side,  Albany  co.  137  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  11  from  Albany. 

Schodack  Landing,  Rensselaer  co.  138  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  10  from  Albany. 

The  Overslaugh,  145  miles  from  New- York,  and  3 
from  Albany,  is  a  shallow  and   difficult  part  of  the  river, 


28  TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

City  of  Albany. 

where  vessels  are  often  grounded,  and  the  larger  class  of 
steamboats  are  occasionally  obliged  to  stop,  and  have  their 
passengers  conveyed  to  the  city  by  smaller  boats. 


THE    CITY    OF    ALBANY. 


"  Go  forth  into  the  fields, 

Ye  denizens  of  the  pent  city's  mart ! 
Go  forth  and  know  the  gladness  nature  yields 
To  the  care  wearied  heart." 


The  capital  of  the  State  of  New- York  is  in  latitude  42° 
39'  99"  north.  In  magnitude  and  importance,  it  is  the 
second  city  in  the  State. 

At  Albany,  travellers  usually  make  such  stay  as  their 
amusement,  business  or  interest  demands.  Few  leave  the 
city  by  the  first  conveyance  after  their  arrival.  The  ob- 
jects of  interest  about  the  city  are  first  to  be  seen,  some 
business  is  to  be  performed,  or  some  new  arrangements  to 
be  made  for  the  further  prosecution  of  their  journey. 

As  the  tour  to  the  Springs  is  not  direct  to  the  Falls  of  Ni- 
agara, the  different  routes  will  be  here  distinctly  described 
to  the  traveller.  During  his  stay  at  Albany,  if  he  takes 
the  subject  into  consideration,  by  having  the  necessaiy  in- 
formation before  him,  he  will  be  better  enabled  to  make  up 
his  mind  as  to  his  future  progress. 


NIACARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  29 

Schenectady  —  Ballston  Spa. 


PvOI  TE    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS,    FROM    ALBANY, 
VIA    SCHENECTADY. 

The  railroad  office  for  Schenectady  and  western  coun- 
try, and  for  Saratoga,  will  be  readily  found,  at  the  upper 
end  of  State  street,  on  the  right  side,  a  short  distance  be- 
fore reaching  the  capitol.  The  fare,  usually  $2,  to  Sara- 
toga, is  paid  at  this  office. 

The  city  of  Schenectady,  16  miles  from  Albany  and  22 
from  Saratoga,  is  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name  —  it  lies  by  the  side  of  the  Mohawk  river,  which 
bounds  it  on  the  west.  It  is  an  old  place,  and  in  its  early 
day  the  inhabitants  suffered  severely  from  the  incursions 
of  the  savages.  The  Erie  canal  passes  through  Schenec- 
tady, and  it  is  a  great  thoroughfare  for  travellers,  but  their 
stay  here  is  very  short,  the  greatest  number  having  barely 
time  to  pass  from  one  set  of  cars  to  another. 

On  leaving  Schenectady,  the  cars  pass  over  a  fine  rail- 
road bridge,  and  then  turn  in  a  northern  direction. 

Ballston  Spa,  31  miles  from  Albany,  and  7  from  Sara- 
toga, is  the  county  seat  of  Saratoga  county.  It  is  a  place 
of  considerable  importance,  and  it  is  evident  that  there  has 
been  no  lack  of  enterj^ise  on  the  part  of  the  inhabitants,  yet 
it  is  equally  plain  that  it  is  not  now  advancing.  The  med- 
ical Springs  at  this  place  once  stood  in  the  highest  estima- 
tion; the  visiting  community  gathered  round  them,  and 
the  public  houses  were  crowded.  The  »S'a7is  Soiici,  a 
very  large  and  spacious  hotel,  was  erected;  but  Saratoga 
lin3  grown  into  popularity,  and  Ballston  has  been  measura- 
bly deserted.  Still  however,  in  the  summer  season,  it  has 
3^ 


30  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

AVatervliet—  Troy 

a  share  of  the  business;  many  boarders  sojourn  at  the  public 
houses,  and  the  visitors  are  constantly  passing  from  one 
village  to  the  other.  The  fare  on  the  railroad  between 
these  two  places,  is  37|  cents. 

Passing  from  Ballston,  the  7  miles  are  soon  run  over, 
and  the  traveller  is  landed  at  Saratoga,  38  miles  from  Al- 
bany. 


ROUTE    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS    FROM    ALBANY, 
VIA    TROY. 

A  steamboat  generally  runs  hourly  back  and  forth  from 
Albany  to  Troy;  the  fare  is  usually  12^  cents.  Stages  run 
every  half  hour  —  they  will  take  you  up  at  the  pubhc  hou- 
ses, and  put  you  down  in  any  place  you  direct.  The  fare 
is  25  cents. 

Watervliet,  or  West  Troy,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hud- 
son, 5  miles  from  Albany,  and  34  from  Saratoga,  is  a 
smart  and  growing  village.  A  United  States  Arsenal,  of 
considerable  magnitude,  is  maintained  at  this  place. 

The  city  of  Troy,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  6  miles 
from  Albany,  and  33  from  Saratoga,  is  the  county  seat 
of  Rensselaer.  The  river  is  here  about  900  feet  wide,  and 
the  tides  of  the  ocean  are  perceptible  in  a  slight  rise  and 
fall  of  the  water.  This  Troy  is  hardly  less  famed  than  its 
great  namesake  of  antiquity.  It  is  distinguished  for  its 
rapid  yet  sure  and  stable  growth,  for  the  untiring  enter- 


NIAGARA    PALLS    AND    CANADA.  31 

Lansingburgh  —  Waterford. 

prise  of  its  citizens,  and  for  the  stream  of  prosperity  and 
opulence  that  pours  in  upon  them.  The  traveller  to  the 
Springs  here  takes  the  railroad  cars.     The  fare  is  $1,.50. 

Lansingburgh,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson,  in  Rens- 
selaer county,  is  9  miles  from  Albany,  and  30  from  Sara- 
toga.    It  is  seen  from  the  cars,  and  is  a  flourishing  place. 

Waterford,  Saratoga  county,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson,  where  it  is  intersected  with  the  Mohawk  river,  is 
10  miles  from  Albany,  and  29  from  Saratoga.  It  is  a 
considerable  place,  and  is  the  head  of  sloop  navigation. 
The  traveller  is  ready  to  inquire,  how  do  all  the  cities 
and  villages  so  near  together  from  Albany  to  Waterford, 
continue  not  only  to  maintain  their  ground,  but  to  improve 
and  flourish  in  an  unprecedented  manner  ?  The  only  an- 
swer is  that  the  country  adjoining  is  rich,  and  the  people 
industrious. 

IVIcchanicsville,  a  town  in  Saratoga  county,  is  21  miles 
from  Albany,  and  18  from  Saratoga.  A  canal  runs  thro' 
the  village.  There  is  considerable  water  for  hydraulic 
purposes,  and  a  Cotton  Factory  has  been  for  some  years  in 
operation. 

Ballston  Spa,  and  from  thence  the  route  is  the  same  for 
the  next  7  miles,  as  on  the  first  route  from  Schenectady. 
The  whole  fare  on  the  route  via  Troy  to  Saratoga  Springs, 
is  from  $1,62  to  $1,75. 

If  it  is  the  intention  of  the  traveller  on  leaving  the 
Springs  to  go  to  Niagara  Falls,  he  is  advised  to  take  the 
route  to  the  Springs,  by  the  way  of  Troy,  and  to  leave 
them  by  the  way  of  Schenectady.  He  will  then  be  on  his 
direct  way  to  the  West.  In  all  cases  the  tourist  is  advi- 
sed to  go  to  the  Springs  in  one  direction,  and  to  return 


32  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRIXGS, 

Remarks  to  Travellers. 

another:  he  will  K'pe  no  time  by  so  doing,  and  will  see 
more  of  the  country. 

There  are  an  immense  number  of  travellers  constantly 
passing  east  and  west  through  the  cities  of  Albany  and 
Schenectady,  who  have  never  l>een  at  the  Springs,  but 
would  like  to  visit  them.  They  have  never  troubled  them- 
selves to  ascertain  how  easy,  and  cheap,  such  a  very  desi- 
rable gratification  is  to  be  obtained. 

To  go  from  Albany  to  Schenectady  via  Troy  and  Sara- 
toga Springs,  costs  the  traveller  for  fare,  ordy  $2,25  more 
than  to  go  direct  to  Schenectady.  The  same  extra  ex- 
pense occurs  from  Schenectady  via  Saratoga,  &c.  to  Al- 
bany. Who  that  can  afford  it  would  for  so  small  a  sum 
forego  the  pleasure  of  a  visit  to  the  Springs?  The  time 
too,  to  the  most  hasty  traveller,  can  be  of  little  conse- 
quence; a  single  day,  or  a  night  and  half  a  day,  will 
suffice  for  a  very  hurried  visit. 


ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 

The  railroad  fare  from  Albany  through  to  Utica  is  $3,75. 
The  distance  is  94  miles:  and  to  Syracuse  147. 

After  passing  the  uninteresting  pine  hills  from  Albany, 
the  cars  descend  the  inclined  plane  to  the  city  of  Schenec- 
tady, which  is  16  miles  from  Albany,  and  131  from  Syra- 
cuse; they  stop  in  the  spacious  depot  in  that  place,  and 
the  passengers  change  their  seats  to  the  cars  that  carry 
them  through  to  Utica. 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  83 

Amsterdam  —  Fonda  —  Rockton. 

The  ride  through  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  is  extremely 
pleasant.  Many  villages  are  passed,  some  of  them  memo- 
rable for  revolutionary  events;  others  are  just  springing  into 
existence,  and  are  distinguished  by  their  new  and  fresh 
appearance. 

Amsterdam,  Montgomery  coimty,  is  32  miles  from  Al- 
bany, and  115  from  Syracuse.  The  village  is  of  old  date; 
of  late  years  it  has  taken  a  new  start,  and  it  is  in  a  thri- 
ving condition. 

Fonda,  42  miles  from  Albany,  and  105  from  Syracuse, 
is  a  new  place  of  two  or  three  years  growth  only;  it  is  the 
county  seat  of  Fulton,  a  county  lately  formed  from  Mont- 
gomery. The  court  house  is  a  very  respectable  building, 
and  the  prospects  of  general  improvement  appear  favorable. 
Here  is  an  excellent  eating  house  for  railroad  passengers  — 
they  stop  ten  minutes;  the  same  at  Amsterdam,  St.  Johns- 
ville  and  Little  Falls,  for  the  purposes  of  refreshment. 

Though  it  is  not  customary  for  travellers  in  this  country 
to  dispense  with  a  single  meal,  yet  the  effects  of  the  ride  on 
the  railroad,  and  the  attractions  of  the  luxuriously  spread 
tables  are  such  at  these  houses,  that  the  passengers  usually 
eat,  as  if  thef^  had  not  broken  their  fast  before  for  a  week. 
St.  Johnsville,  a  small  village,  63  miles  from  Albany, 
and  84  from  Syracuse,  is  noted  to  railroad  travellers  by 
its  house  of  refreshment. 

Rockton,  or  Little  Falls,  Herkimer  county,  is  73  miles 
from  Albany,  and  74  from  Syracuse.  This  place  has  abun- 
dance of  fine  mill  seats.  The  Mohawk  is  here  broken  by 
many  little  islands  and  rocks  past  which  it  descends  with 
much  force,  forming  a  variety  of  cascades  and  little  falls. 
An  acqueduct  bridge  crosses  the  river  to  the  Erie  canaL 


34  TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Utica  —  Rome —  Syracuse. 

The  very  wild  and  bold  scenery  around  Rockton,  makes  it 
a  spot  which  the  traveller  looks  upon  with  great  interest. 

Herkimer,  80  miles  from  Albany,  and  67  from  Syracuse, 
is  a  post  town  on  the  German  Flats. 

The  city  of  Utica,  the  capital  of  Oneida  county,  is  94 
miles  from  Albany,  and  53  from  Syracuse.  The  central 
situation  of  this  city  has  long  given  it  a  commanding  trade. 
An  unostentatious  opulence,  and  a  happy  competency, 
are  the  characteristics  of  a  large  portion  of  its  inhabitants. 
At  Utica  the  traveller  purchases  a  ticket  in  the  office  of  the 
Depository  at  which  the  cars  stop  for  Syracuse,  at  $2,  the 
distance  of  53  miles. 

The  route  of  the  Syracuse  road  goes  through  Whites- 
towTi,  distant  100  miles  from  Albany,  and  49  from  Syra- 
cuse, situated  on  a  level  near  the  Mohawk  river. 

The  village  of  Rome,  formerly  Fort  Stanwix,  is  107 
miles  from  Albany,  and  40  from  Syracuse.  The  Fort  was 
built  by  the  British,  in  1758.  After  the  revolutionary 
war,  it  was  called  Fort  Schuyler.  Its  ruins  are  slightly 
discemable,  near  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk  river. 

The  road  passes  through  some  other  small  villages  that 
are  springing  up  at  different  intersecting  thoroughfares. 

Syracuse,  is  53  miles  from  Utica,  by  the  railroad.  This 
place  has  grown  into  importance  since  the  construction  of 
the  Erie  canal,  and  has  become  the  county  seat  of  On- 
ondaga. The  manufacture  of  salt  is  here  carried  on  ex- 
tensively, both  by  boiling  the  water  and  by  evaporation. 
More  than  one  hundred  acres  are  covered  with  sheds  and 
vats  for  evaporating;  and  the  salt  thus  made  is  consid- 
ered superior. 
Syracuse  is  a  central  point  for  travellers;  in  going  west 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  35 

Canal  Travelling. 

from  this  place,  three  different  routes  are  presented.  One 
by  the  Erie  canal,  directly  through  to  Rochester  and 
Lockport;  thence  hy  railroad  to  the  Falls.  One  by  canal 
and  stage  to  Oswego,  thence  by  steamboats  to  Lewiston, 
and  railroad  to  the  Falls.  And  the  other  by  railroad  to 
Auburn,  and  stages  thence  to  Rochester,  or  Cannndaigun 
to  Buffalo,  and  railroad  to  the  Falls;  or  by  stages  to 
Lockport,  and  railroad  to  the  Falls. 


ROUTE  FROM  SYRACUSE,  BY  CANAL,  TO 
NIAGARA  FALLS. 

After  the  fatigue  of  the  cars,  if  the  passenger  has  come 
direct  from  Albany,  147  miles,  it  is  a  gi"eat  relief  to  go 
on  board  of  the  Packets.  He  can  sit,  or  sleep,  and  in 
other  respects  find  himself  entirely  at  his  ease.  The  fare 
to  Rochester,  99  miles,  is  $4,  with  board.  The  table 
is  provided  about  as  well  as  at  the  good  hotels;  the  lodging 
part,  if  there  are  many  passengers,  cannot  be  favorably 
spoken  of,  yet  it  is  far  better  than  is  allowed  by  the  jar  of 
the  railroad  cars,  or  the  swing  of  post  coaches.  About 
two  days  travelling  on  the  canal  is  always  an  agreeable 
change  from  other  modes  of  conveyance. 

The  villages  passed  on  the  canal  are — 
Miles  from  Miles  from 

Syracuse.  Rochester. 

2    .     .     .     Geddesburgh,  Onondaga  co.     .     .     .     97 

8  .     .     .     Nine  Mile  Creek,       "  ...     91 

9  .    .     .     CamiUus,  "  ...    90 


36 


TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPR,INGS, 


Canjil  Travelling. 

Miles  from 

Miles  from 

Syracuse. 

Kochester. 

14    . 

,     Canton, 

Onondaga  co.      . 

.    85 

20    . 

.     Jordan, 

>y 

.     79 

26    . 

.     Weedsport, 

Cayuga  co.       .     . 

.     73 

27    . 

.     Centre  Port, 

"               .     . 

.     72 

29    . 

.     Port  Byron, 

" 

.     70 

35    . 

.     Montezuma, 

" 

.     64 

46    . 

.     .     Clyde, 

Wayne  co. 

.     53 

55    . 

.     .     Lyons, 

" 

.     44 

61    . 

.     .     Lockville, 

" 

.     38 

62    . 

.     .     Newark, 

j> 

.     37 

65    . 

.     .     Port  Gibson, 

Ontario  co. 

.     .     34 

70    . 

.     .     Palmyra, 

" 

.     29 

81     . 

.     .     Fairport, 

" 

.     18 

83    . 

.     .     Fullam's  Basin,  Monroe  co.     . 

.     .     16 

89    . 

.     .     Pittsfjrd, 

" 

.     .     10 

99    . 

.     .     Rochester, 

>> 

, 

At  the 

city  of  Rochester, 

there  is  again  preeen 

xd  to  the 

traveller 

different  routes  anc 

conveyances  to  Niar 

^ara  Falls, 

via  Lock 

port. 

First, 

a  continuance  by  the  canal  —  a  boat  leaves  shortly 

after  the 

arrival  of  the  eastern  boat.     The  fare  i 

3  from  $2 

to  $2,50 

to  Lockport;  the  distance  63  miles. 

Thev 

illages  passed  are — 

Mies  fror 

a 

Miles  to 

Mies  from 

Miles  to 

Rochester. 

Lockport 

10     . 

.     Spencer's 

Basin 

Monroe  co.     . 

.     .     53 

12    . 

.     Ogden, 

" 

.     .     51 

15    . 

.     Adams, 

" 

.     .     48 

20    . 

.     Brockport 

" 

.     .     43 

25    . 

.     Holley, 

Orleans  co.     . 

.     .     38 

NIAGARA    PALLS    AND    CANADA. 


37 


Lockport  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad. 

Miles  from 

Miles  to 

Ilocliesler. 

Lockport. 

27     .      . 

Murray, 

Orleans  co.     . 

.     36 

35    .     . 

Albion, 

" 

.    28 

39    .     . 

Portville, 

" 

.     24 

44    .     . 

Onk  Orchard, 

" 

.     19 

45    .     . 

Medina, 

" 

.     18 

51     .     . 

.     Middlcport, 

Niagara  co.     . 

.     12 

63    .     . 

TT" T   „. 

Lockport, 

K„  >„.1»„„,1     0  4  „, 

•T r 

From  Lockport  to  the  Falls,  by  railroad,  24  miles;  fare, 
97  cents.  At  the  village  of  Pekin,  Hi  miles,  the  cars 
stop  ten  minutes,  to  wood  and  water.  5|  miles  further, 
at  the  Junction,  the  passengers  going  to  Canada  take  the 
Lewiston  cars.  That  village  is  distant  only  2  miles.  The 
locomotive  and  train  proceed  on,  7  miles,  to  the  Falls. 

The  second  route  from  Rochester  is  by  stage,  on  the 


Ridge  road. 

The  fore  is  $2 

,50  in  the 

summer  season; 

the  distance  61  miles. 

The  village 

8  passed  are — 

IMiles  frora 

Miles  to 

Rochester. 

Lockj)ort 

6    .     .    . 

Greece, 

Monroe  co. 

...    55 

11  .  .  . 

Parma, 

it 

.    50 

19    .     .     . 

Clarkson, 

" 

.     42 

35    .    .     . 

Gaines, 

Orleans  co. 

.    26 

40    .     .     . 

Oak  Orchard, 

" 

.    21 

43    .     .     . 

Ridgeway, 

" 

.     18 

53    .     .     . 

Hartland, 

>> 

.    .      8 

61    .    .    . 

Lockport, 

" 

.    . 

And  to  the  Falls,  by  railroad,  24  miles. 
The  third  route  from  Rochester,  is  by  railroad,  to  Ba- 
tavia,  Genesee  county;  fare,  for  32  miles,  is  $1,50.     From 


38  TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Coinpariitive  Expenses. 

thence  by  stage  32  miles,  fare  $1,50,  to  Lockport.  Or  to 
Buffalo,  39  miles,  fare  $2,50.  And  from  thence  by  rail- 
road, or  steamboat,  to  Niagara  Falls,  22  miles,  fare  87 J 
cents. 

These  routes  present  to  the  traveller  the  following  re- 
sults, as  to  expense: 

The  first  route  from  Rochester,  by  packet,  to  Lockport, 
and  railroad  from  thence  to  the  Falls,  the  cost  is  $3,47  and 
board,  63  miles. 

2d.  Stage  by  the  Ridge  road  and  railroad,  $3,47. 

3d.  Railroad  to  Batavia,  stage  to  Lockport,  &c.  $3,97, 

4th.  Railroad  to  Batavia,  stage  to  Buffalo,  and  railroad 
to  the  Falls,  $4,87i. 


ROUTE    FROM    SYRACUSE,    BY    LAKE    OXTARIO, 

Packet  boat,  or  stage,  to  Oswego,  at  the  mouth  of  Os- 
wego river,  on  Lake  Ontario,  38  miles;  fare,  $1,50.  From 
thence  by  steamboat,  to  Lewiston,  on  the  Niagara  river, 
150  miles:  fare,  $4.  From  thence  to  the  Falls,  by  rail- 
road, 7  miles;  fare  50  cents. 

As  it  is  desirable  to  see  Lake  Ontario,  and  to  pass  over 
its  deep  green  wafers,  either  in  going  up  or  returning,  it 
is  recommended  to  take  this  route.  If  the  tourist  goes  to 
Canada,  the  canal,  or  land  route  had  better  be  taken  in 
going  to  the  Falls,  and  the  lake  in  passing  down,  or  re- 


NIAGARA    PALLS    AND    CANADA.  39 

Rates  of  Fare  —  Distances. 

turning.  To  persons  bound  to  the  city  of  Buffalo,  or 
to  the  Upper  Lakes,  this  is  a  pleasant  and  expeditious 
route,  and  in  an  economical  point  of  view,  both  as  to 
time  and  money,  preferable;  and  travellers  on  business 
will  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Falls  without  ex- 
pense, and  without  going  out  of  their  way.  The  time  the 
proprietors  advertise  to  carry  passengers  from  Syracuse  to 
Niagara  Falls,  is  22  hours;  and  to  Buffalo,  in  the  short 
space  of  23i  hours. 


ROUTE  FROM  SYRACUSE,  V.Y    AUBURN. 


To  Auburn,  2G  miles,  by  railroad;  fare,  .f  1,25.     From 

Auburn  to  Canadaigua,  the  conveyance  is  by  stage;  the 

distance  is  37  miles,  and  the  villages  it  passes  through  are, 

Miles  from  Miles  to 

Auburji.  Canandaiorua. 

9    .     .     .     Cayuga  Bridge,  Cayuga  co.     .     .     .     28 

11     .     .     .     Seneca  Falls,       Seneca  co.     .     .     .     26 

15    .     .     .     Waterloo,  "  ...     22 

21     .     .     .     Geneva,  Ontario  co.     .     .     .     16 

.37     .     .     .     Canandaigua,  "  ... 

From  Canandaigua,  this  routes  divides  again  into  two, 

one   leading   to   Rochester,   by  railroad,    26  miles;    fare 

.$l,12i;  where  the  traveller  will  take  one  of  the  routes 

already  described,  from  that  city  to  the  Falls. 


40 


TOUR   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 


Avon  Springs. 


Or  if  he  pleases,  he  may  take  the  road  to  Buffalo  by 
stage,  distance  88  miles,  and  pass  through  the  following 
villages: 


Miles  from 
Canandaigua. 


Mileg  to 
Buffalo. 

.  80 

.  75 

.  70 

.  65 

.  63 


8     .     .     .     East  Bloomfield,  Ontario  co. 
13    .     .     .     West  Bloomfield, 
18    ,     .     .     Lima,  Livingston  co. 

23    .     .     .     East  Avon,  " 

25    .     .     .     Avon,  " 

[Two  miles  north  of  this  village  are  the  Avon  Springs. 
They  are  sidphurous.     The  accommodations  for  visitore 
are  such  as  are  required,  and  these  Springs  of  late  years 
have  been  growing  in  favor  with  the  public] 
33    .     .     .     Caledonia,      Livingston  co.     .     .     .     55 
39    .     .     ,    Le  Roy,  Genesee  co.       ...     49 

43    .     .     .     Stafford,  "  ...     45 

49    .    .     .     Batavia,  "  ...     39 

56    .     .     .     East  Pembroke,        "  ...     32 

62    .    .     .     Pembroke,  "  ...    26 

70    .     .     .     Clarence,  Erieco.         ...     18 

78     .     .     .     Williamsville.  "  ...     10 

88    .     .     .     City  of  Buffalo.  "  ... 

N.  B.  On  some  routes  the  price  of  fare  is  not  esti- 
mated, as  on  such  it  has  been  found  to  vary  at  different 
periods  it  has  been  travelled  over,  upon  the  distance  en- 
gaged for,  and  for  other  causes,  satisfactory  to  the  propri- 
etors of  the  different  lines,  if  not  to  the  traveller. 


NIAGARA    PALLS    AND    CANADA.  41 

Distances  from  Buffalo. 


THE    CITY    OF    BUFFALO. 

Of  this  rising  city  of  the  West,  of  the  high  aspirations 
of  its  citizens,  of  its  commanding  position  as  to  commer- 
cial advantages,  of  the  proud  eminence  to  which  it  has 
already  risen,  and  to  the  high  destiny  of  its  future  pros- 
perity and  greatness,  it  is  not  in  this  voliime  necessary  to 
speak.  It  is  sufficient  to  say,  that  it  is  admitted  by  all, 
that  there  is  no  location  that  can  become  its  rival,  and  no 
untoward  circumstances,  can  but  for  a  short  period  retard 
its  onward  course.  The  City  of  the  Lakes,  as  it  should  be 
called,  already  rising  beautifully  over  the  deep  green  wa- 
ters, is  an  object  cheering  to  the  mind  and  delightful  to 
the  eye  of  the  tourist. 

As  the  main  channel  of  travel  to  the  great  west  is 
through  this  city,  some  information  as  to  distances  beyond 
Buffalo,  will  here  be  given. 

Steamboats  leave  Buff'alo  every  evening  and  morning; 
and  a  stage  leaves  every  morning  for  the  west.  The  price 
of  cabin  passage  on  the  steamboats  to  Detroit  is  eight  dol- 
lars, and  intermediate  ports  in  proportion. 

The  distances  to  various  points  on  the  lakes  are — 

Miles. 

From  Buffalo  to  Dunkirk, 45 

Portland, 60 

Erie, 90 

Salem, 116 

Ashtabula, 130 

Grand  River, 158 

Cleveland, 183 


4Q  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Gniiifr  from  Aiasara  Falls. 
-  —  3iiies. 

From  Bufialo  to  Huron, 235 

Sandu8ky, 250 

Detroit, 310 

Mackinaw, 600 

Green  Bay, 750 

Chicago,     ......     1000 

For  further  information  to  emigrants  and  travellers  who 
are  bound  west  from  the  city  of  Buifalo,  **  Steele's  Wes- 
tern Guide  Book"  is  recommended  as  a  very  useful  work. 


ROUTES    FROM    NIAGARA    FALLS,    THROUGH 
CANADA. 

Travellers,  when  in  the  western  part  of  the  State  of 
New- York,  frequently  come  to  the  conclusion  to  make  a 
tour  in  Canada,  and  not  having  provided  themselves  with 
suitable  directions,  at  times  require  information  which 
they  find  it  very  difficult  to  obtain. 

For  the  convenience  of  those  who  wish  to  extend  their 
journey  beyond  the  Falls,  the  following  information  has 
been  brought  together.  The  Falls,  of  late  years,  have 
become  very  justly  the  great  centre  of  attraction,  which 
usually  receive  the  first  visit  of  tourists,  and  thence  they 
branch  off  to  scenes  of  less  magnitude,  as  business  or 
curiosity  leads  them. 

The  city  of  Bufialo  is  the  place  of  general  embarkation 
for  all  the  countries,  lakes,  and  rivers  beyond.  The 
traveller  can  reach  Buffalo  from  the  Falls,  on  the  Canada 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA.  48 

St.  Catherines  —  Hamilton. 

side,  by  stage  or  railroad,  to  Chippewa,  two  miles,  and 
thence  by  steamboat,  twenty  miles;  or,  by  crossing  the 
ferry  at  the  Falls,  to  the  American  side,  he  will  find  it 
pleasant  traveUing  on  the  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  rail- 
road, as  a  considerable  portion  of  the  route  runs  by  the 
side  of  the  river.  It  is  usual  for  persons  visiting  Maiden, 
Sandwich,  or  other  portions  of  Canada  west  of  those 
places,  to  take  steamboat  from  Buffalo. 

If  the  tourist  confines  his  ramble  within  a  short  com- 
pass, there  are,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls,  several  places 
that  may  attract  his  attention,  not  mentioned  in  the  jaunt 
to  Canada,  in  the  after  part  of  this  work. 

AUensburgh,  8  miles  west  from  the  Falls,  and  59G  from 
Quebec,  is  a  small  village  on  the  Welland  canal;  a  good 
road  leads  to  it,  which  passes  through  a  fine  country. 

St.  Davids,  6  miles  north  from  the  Falls,  and  588  from 
Quebec,  is  a  pretty,  retired  village;  it  lies  below  the 
mountain  ridge,  2  miles  west  of  Queenston. 

The  Deep  Cut,  8  miles  west  from  the  Falls,  and  596 
from  Quebec,  has  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  the 
Welland  canal,  at  this  place,  being  cut  nearly  100  feet  in 
the  mountain. 

St.  Catherines,  is  10  miles  west  from  the  Falls,  and 
595  from  Quebec.  The  Welland  canal  runs  through  it. 
It  is  a  thriving  village,  and  of  considerable  business. 

Hamilton,  is  west  40  miles,  by  land,  and  50  miles  by 
steamboat  navigation  from  Niagara,  and  630  from  Quebec. 
It  is  near  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario.  It  is  situated  on  a 
beautiful  plain,  skirted  on  one  side  by  the  mountain  and 
on  the  other  by  the  green  meadow  lands  lying  between  it 
and  the  lake.     It  is  one  of  the  first  class  of  towns  in  the 


44  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Brantford  —  Toronto. 

Upper  Province,  and  is  a  very  business  like  place,  con- 
taining about  3000  inhabitants. 

Brantford,  on  Grand  River,  is  25  miles  further,  and  is 
65  miles*  from  the  Falls,  and  680  from  Quebec.  Along 
the  borders  of  Grand  River  reside  the  remnant  of  the 
Mohawk  Indians,  who,  under  Brant,  having  taken  sides 
with  the  British  government,  in  the  revolutionary  war, 
had  a  large  tract  of  land  allotted  to  them  on  the  borders 
of  this  river. 

There  is  a  line  of  stages  which  run  daily  from  Lewis- 
ton  and  Queenston,  through  Canada  to  Detroit,  passing 
through  St.  Davids,  St.  Catherines,  Hamilton,  Ancas- 
ter,  Brantford  and  London. 

Toronto,  is  44  miles  from  the  Falls,  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  lake,  and  100  miles  by  land,  and  550  from 
Quebec.  It  contains  about  12,000  mhabitants.  It  is 
built  by  the  side  of  the  bay  of  the  same  name.  The  for- 
tifications are  at  a  short  distance  from  the  city,  on  a  point  of 
land  which  commands  the  entrance  into  the  harbor.  There 
are  several  well  built  streets  in  Toronto,  and  many  gov- 
ernment and  other  buildings  of  ample  dimensions  and  in 
good  style.  The  College  at  this  place  is  well  endowed, 
and  is  a  well  conducted  and  an  excellent  mstitution.  The 
precincts  around  the  city  are  handsomely  improved.  Or- 
chards, gardens,  and  the  dwellings  of  wealthy  people  are 
Been  in  every  direction.  The  lands  about  Toronto  are 
very  fertile,  and  for  many  miles  in  all  directions,  the 
country  is  well  populated  by  able  farmers. 

Travellers  from  the  American  or  British  side,  can  em- 
bark on  board  of  steamboats  at  Lewiston  or  Queenston,  7 
miles  from  the  Falls,   and  585  from  Quebec,  or  at   any 


NIAGARA    PALLS    AND    CANADA.  45 

Oswego  —  Kingston. 

of  the  ports  on  the  river  below,  for  Hamilton,  Toronto, 
Kingston,  or  from  the  American  ports  on  the  lake,  or  of 
the  St.  Lawrence.  If  the  tourist  desires  to  go  to  the 
Lower  Province,  he  will  take  a  steamboat  from  (he  Nia- 
gara river,  or,  if  he  prefers  an  overland  route,  he  can  take 
the  railroad  cars,  and  pass  through  the  villages  of  Pekin 
and  Lockport,  24  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  569  from 
Quebec;  thence  by  packet  or  stage,  and  railroad,  to  the 
city  of  Rochester,  the  whole  distance  85  miles,  and  507 
from  Quebec. 

Those  travellers  who  did  not  come  to  the  Falls  by  this 
route,  will  find  it  a  very  pleasant  one  on  their  return. 
The  ride  on  the  railroad,  along  the  brow  of  the  mountain, 
is  delightful.  The  great  combined  locks  at  Lockport,  and 
the  thousands  of  laborers  now  engaged  in  blasting  the 
rocks  and  excavating  the  earth  for  the  enlarged  canal,  are 
well  worth  seeing.  The  number,  too,  of  beautiful  and 
flourishing  villages  along  this  route  —  the  rich  and  pros- 
perous country — the  city  of  Rochester  —  the  great  acque- 
duct  —  the  falls  of  the  Genesee  river  —  are  all  objects  of 
great  interest.  At  Rochester  the  tourist  is  again  on  the 
great  thoroughfare  of  travel;  and  stages,  railroad  cars  and 
packet  boats,  are  ready  for  his  accommodation. 

To  Oswego,  from  Lewiston,  by  the  lake,  is  150  miles, 
and  is  157  from  the  Falls,  and  452  from  Quebec. 

To  Sacket's  Harbor,  from  Oswego,  40  miles;  and  is  197 
from  the  Falls,  and  412  from  Quebec. 

To  Cape  Vincent,  fi-om  Sacket's  Harbor,  20  miles. 

Kingston,  Upper  Canada,  now  the  capital  of  both  .Pro- 
vinces, lies  opposite  Cape  Vincent,  distant  11  miles,  and 
is  200  miles  from  Niagara  Falls,  and  392  from  Quebec. 


TOUR    TO   SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 


Rideaii  Canal  —  St.  Lawrence  River. 


It  contains  about  6000  inhabitants.  This  place  was  for- 
merly Fort  Frontinac;  it  is  built  on  the  northern  shore  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  at  its  junction  with  Lake  Ontario. 
The  river  is  here  10  miles  wide.  The  Thousand  Islands 
commence  immediately  below  Kingston,  and  are  scattered 
in  the  river  for  a  distance  of  50  miles.  The  fortifications 
at  Kingston  are  of  considerable  strength,  and  in  reference 
to  military  and  naval  operations,  it  is  considered  an  im- 
portant point. 

The  Rideau  canal  commences  in  the  bay;  and  is  five 
miles  from  Kingston.  It  was  built  at  the  expense  of  the 
British  government,  and  principally  for  military  purpo- 
ses, in  affording  an  internal  communication  between  the 
Upper  and  Lower  Provinces.  The  whole  distance  fi-om 
Kingston,  by  the  Rideau  canal,  to  Montreal,  is  280  miles. 
There  is  a  variety  of  interesting  objects  along  the  canal  — 
the  Rideau  and  Ottawa  rivers,  the  cataract  of  the  Chau- 
dire,  the  Rideau  falls,  extensive  lakes,  and  some  pleasant 
villages. 

By  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  conveyance  is  by  steamboat 
to  Dickerson's  Landing,  110  miles,  passing 

Miles  from  Miles  to 

Niagara  Falls.  Q,uebec. 

250     .    Brockville,  Upper  Canada, 342 

Morristovvn,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  Y. 

270    .    Prescott,  Upper  Canada,         .        .        .        :        .  320 

Osrdenslmrgh,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  Y. 

310    ,    From  Dickerson's  Landing,  by  stage,  12  miles,  to  2S2 

322    .            Cornwall,  Lower  Canada,       ....  270 
3.63    .    Thence  by  steamboat  41  m.  to  Coteaudu  Lac,  L.  C.    229 

37a  '.    Thence  by  stage  16  miles,  to  Cascade,  L.  C.         .  213 

403    .    Theuce  by  steamboat  24  miles,  to  La  Chien,  L.  C.  18!) 

412    .    "yhence  by  stage  9  miles,  to  Montreal,    ...  180 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AXD    CANADA.  47 

3IontreaI  —  Quebec. 

The  distance  from  Kingston,  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  to 
Montreal,  is  212  miles.  The  fine  scenery  along  the  river, 
of  lakes  and  lapide,  of  islands  and  rocky  shores,  of  wild 
and  picturesque  views,  of  rising  towns  and  elegant  seats, 
and  the  many  scenes  made  memorable  by  historical 
events,  always  charm  and  amuse  the  traveller. 

Besides  the  many  objects  which  the  city  of  Montreal 
affords  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  tourist,  the  village 
of  Varennes,  on  account  of  its  medical  spring  and  fine 
prospect,  has  become  a  place  of  much  resort.  The  village 
is  15  miles  from  the  city,  427  miles  from  Niagara  Falls, 
and  165  fi-om  Quebec;  and  the  spring  is  about  a  mile  from 
the  village.  A  steamboat  runs  from  Montreal  to  this 
place  twice  a  day,  and  the  boats  that  ply  to  and  from 
Quebec  usually  stop. 

Pursuing  the  roulo  down  the  river,  William  Henry  is 
40  miles  from  Montreal,  467  miles  from  Niagara  Falls, 
and  125  from  Quebec.  It  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
Sorcl,  where  it  unites  with  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  next  place  of  importance  is  the  Three  Rivers,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice,  and  is  497  miles  from  Nia- 
gara Falls,  and  95  from  Quebec.  Some  miles  up  the  St. 
Maurice,  are  the  falls  of  the  Shawinnegame,  of  100  feet. 

The  Richelieu  rapids  commence  7  miles  below  the 
Three  Rivers,  and  is  504  miles  from  Niagara  Falls,  and 
88  from  Quebec.  The  navigation  is  considered  danger- 
ous in  the  night,  and  by  steamboats  the  rapids  are  always 
passed  in  the  day  time. 

The  distance  to  Quebec  from  Montreal,  by  steamboat, 
is  180  miles,  and  from  Niagara  Falls  592  miles.  The 
traveller  having  arrived  in  this  city,  so  celebrated  for  the 


48  TOUR    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS, 

Returning  Route  from  Quebec. 

many  great  events  of  which  it  has  been  the  theatre,  and 
for  its  strong  fortifications,  will,  at  his  leisure,  accompa- 
nied by  some  well  informed  citizen,  or  hired  guide,  visit 
all  the  locations  and  objects  of  attraction  within  and 
around  the  city. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  eight  miles  northeast  of 
Quebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  and  near  the 
St.  Lawrence;  being  600  miles  from  Niagara  Falls.  The 
height  of  the  Fall  is  240  feet,  or  72  feet  higher  than  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  but  the  immense  volume  of  water  of 
the  great  cataract  is  wanting.  The  falling  sheet  is  about 
100  feet  wide,  or  about  the  same  width  as  that  of  the 
centre  fall  of  Niagara,  which  passes  over  Ingraham's 
Cave.  The  great  height,  however,  of  these  Fails,  and 
the  singular  beauty  which  pervades  the  whole  wild  and 
romantic  scene,  is  the  admiration  of  all  who  have  had  an 
opportunity  of  beholding  them. 

On  the  route  between  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci  and 
the  city,  is  the  Indian  village  Lorette.  Some  beautiful 
views  of  the  eurroimding  and  distant  scenery  is  afforded 
from  this  village. 

There  are  several  other  places  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec 
of  considerable  interest,  which  are  pointed  out  to  stran- 
gers, and  are  frequently  visited. 

In  returning,  the  usual  route  is  back  to  Montreal  — 
from  thence  by  steamboat  to 

Miles  from  Miles  to 

Montreal.  Albany. 

7     .     La  Prairie,  Lower  Canada, 243 

24    .     Thence  by  railroad  to  St.  Johns,  L.  C.  17  m.  226 

38    .     By  steamboat  to  Isle  Aux  Noix,  L.  C.  14  m.  212 


NIAGARA    FALLS    AND    CANADA. 


49 


Route  from  Albany  to  Boston. 


iNIiles  from 
3Iontreal. 

48 


60 
75 

101 
139 
154 

178 
200 
203 
223 


To  Rouse's  Point,  L.  C.  10  miles, 
"  Chazy,  Clinton  county,  N.  Y.  12  miles 


Mile3  to 
Albany. 

.     202 

12  mil 

es,     190 

15    ' 

175 

26    ' 

149 

38    ' 

111 

15    ' 

96 

24    ' 

72 

22    ' 

50 

3    ' 

47 

20    ' 

"  Plattsburgh,  " 

"  Burlington,  Vermont, 

"  Crown  Point,  N.  Y. 

"  Ticonderoga,  N.  Y. 

"  Whitehall,  N.  Y. 

"  Sandy  Hill,  N.  Y. 

"  Glen's  Falls,  N.  Y. 

"  Saratoga, 
And  from  thejice  to  Albany,  38  miles. 
In  going   to   the   Springs  from  the  north,  the  tourist 
will  only  depart  about  15  miles  out  of  the  direct  route  to 
Albany. 

The  whole  tour  from  New- York  to  Saratoga  Springs, 
Niagara  Falls,  Quebec,  and  back  to  the  cily  of  New- 
York,  will  comprise  a  distance  of  about  1,350  miles,  and 
may  be  accomplished  in  the  summer  season,  by  those 
whose  ambition  is  rapidity  of  movement,  in  less  than  10 
days,  and  at  an  expense  of  from  $50  to  $70. 


ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON,  (.MASS.) 

The  citizens  of  Boston  have  evinced  a  great  degree  of 
public  spirit  in  driving  forward  the  construction  of  a  rail- 
road to  Albany.     Already  100  miles  is  completed,  and  in 
operation  from  Boston  to  Springfield;  and  it  is  expected 
5       ■ 


50     ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON. 

Time  of  leaving  Albany  —  Fare. 

that  from  Springfield  to  Albany,  a  distance  of  104  miles, 
the  road  will  be  completed  in  less  than  two  years.  Be- 
fore that  time,  the  34  miles  of  railroad  from  Batavia  to 
Buffalo,  or  the  60  miles  of  railroad  from  Rochester  to 
Lockport  will  also  be  finished.  There  will  then  be  a 
direct  railroad  communication  from  Boston  to  Niagara 
Falls,  and  Buffalo,  a  distance  of  about  520  miles. 

The  communication  now  between  Albany  and  Boston 
is  by  stages  and  railroad  cars,  and  the  fare  through  is  but 
$6. 

From  Albany,  there  are  two  daily  lines  of  stages. — 
The  Telegraph  mail  leaves  at  5  o'clock,  P.  M.  and  ar- 
rives at  Springfield  the  next  day  in  time  for  the  afternoon 
cars,  and  goes  through  to  Boston,  204  miles,  in  24  hours. 

The  Accommodation  coach  leaves  every  morning  at  6 
o'clock,  and  arrives  at  Springfield  the  same  evening  to 
lodge.  The  passengers  are  the  next  day  conveyed  by 
railroad  to  Boston  by  12  o'clock. 


h 


PART  II. 

JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

PUBLIC    HOUSES, 

Description  of  Springs,  Virtne  in  tlic  cure  of  Diseases 

DIRECTIONS  AS  TO  DRINKING  AND  USING  THE  WATERS. 

ANALYSIS. 

BATHING— USE  OF  THE  BATH. 
SARATOGA     VILLAGE  — AMUSEMENTS,     &c. 


JAUNT  TO  SARATOGA. 


ARRIVAL    AT    THE    SPRINGS. 

"  Madam,  this  way,  here  is  our  sitting  room. 
The  (lay  is  pleasant.  Sir  —  Pray  be  seated  — 
Happy  to  serve  you  —  Any  orders,  Sir  ? 
The  baggage  7    It  shall  be  seen  too  —  A  room  ? 
"With  pleasure  ;  I'll  show  you  one  or  more." 

The  cars  with  the  passengers  drive  into  the  depot,  the 
porters  from  the  different  public  houses  surround  them. 
The  travellers  will  observe  painted  on  the  sides  of  the 
room  the  names  of  the  public  houses,  the  porter  to  each 
having  his  appropriate  stand.  In  selecting  a  house,  it  is 
better  to  depend  upon  the  advertisement  of  the  proprietor 
in  the  columns  of  some  respectable  newspaper,  than  the 
irresponsible  recommendation  of  runners,  or  of  anonymous 
bills  thrust  into  cars  and  stages.  Those  things  shoidd 
never  be  depended  on. 

Lodging  having  been  procured  to  the  satisfaction  of 
the  party;  after  ablutions,  dressing,  refreshments  and  the 
like,  if  in  health  they  hasten  to  the  fountains.  The  first 
5* 


54  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 

Visit  to  Congress  Spring. 

direction  is  usually  to  Congress  Spring;  it  has  long  stood 
pre-eminent.  It  is  near  at  hand,  at  the  southern  part  of 
the  village.  A  lad  is  usually  in  waiting  at  the  spring  — 
with  a  staff,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  small  metallic  frame 
which  holds  Ihree  half  pint  tumblers,  he  dips  in  the  foun- 
tain, and  raises  the  sparkling  waters,  and  presents  them 
round  to  those  who  come  to  drink.  No  pay  is  asked, 
though  a  slight  acknowledgment  is  customary.  One  or 
two  glasses  are  usually  taken.  This  is  enough  until  the 
visitor  has  determined  upon  a  medical  course  of  the  wa- 
ters; or  is  informed  of  their  virtues  and  effects. 

Having  tasted  of  these  delightful  waters  the  visitors 
often  return  to  the  Main  street,  in  order  to  visit  all  the 
Springs  in  a  regular  course:  they  commence  at  the  most 
southern. 

Washington  Spring.  —  It  is  at  the  lower  end  of  Broad- 
way, on  Main  street,  on  the  west  side.  This  Spring  pro- 
duces a  fine  mineral  water;  its  predominant  qualities  are 
chalybeate,  saline,  and  carbonic  acid  gae. 

These  waters  are  diuretic  and  cathartic.  They  are 
very  useful  to  persons  who  have  been  much  reduced  by 
disease,  who  are  feeble  and  languid,  without  any  local  or 
general  inflammation,  and  who  are  without  febrile  irrita- 
tion. Slowness  of  functional  discharges  will  be  remedied 
by  the  use  of  these  waters,  but  all  excess  tending  to 
inflammation  will  be  greatly  aggravated.  They  will 
strengthen  digestion  if  there  is  no  inflammation  of  the 
stomach,  intestines,  or  of  the  liver. 

The  waters  should  be  drank  at  the  Spring;  from  four 
to  eight  tumblers  may  be  used  each  day.  When  they 
operate  favorably,  an  improved  appetite  will  follow.    When 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  55 

Columbian  and  Congress  Springs. 

they  oppress  the  stomach,  cause  nausea,  hot  flushings  with 
diarrhoea,  and  at  times  costiveness,  they  should  be  imme- 
diately discontinued. 

The  recreative  Garden  surrounds  the  Washington 
Spring ;  and  the  Washington  Eaths  are  supplied  with 
the  fresh  and  mineral  water. 

The  Columbian  Spring.  —  A  few  rods  to  the  north- 
cast  of  the  Washington  is  the  Columbian  Spring.  The 
waters  arc  similar  to  the  Washington.  As  there  are  so 
many  Springs  near  at  hand  of  a  more  popular  character, 
the  waters  of  this  are  seldom  used. 

This  Spring  is  in  a  public  park,  or  pleasure  groimd;  to 
the  east  of  the  Spring  passes  the  road  that  leads  to  the 
rising  groimd  that  is  surmounted  with  a  grove  of  pine, 
amid  which  is  a  circular  railroad. 

Congress  Spring.  —  This  Spring  already  slightly  men- 
tioned as  the  one  first  visited  on  the  arrival  of  the  party, 
is  a  short  distance  from  the  Columbian.  It  is  convenient 
to  some  of  the  principal  hotels,  and  has  as  yet  been  imri- 
valled  for  the  excellence  of  its  water.  It  is  eagerly  sought 
for  abroad,  and  has  been  transported  to  every  part  of  the 
United  States,  and  to  many  foreign  places.  In  some 
parts  even  in  the  United  States  it  is  sold  for  a  higher  price 
than  some  qualities  of  wine.  But  none  can  fully  appre- 
ciate its  superiority,  but  those  who  quaff  it  at  the  foun- 
tain, before  any  portion  of  the  gas  has  escaped. 

The  crowd  of  invalids  and  fashionables,  that  are  fre- 
quently in  a  summer's  morning,  found  around  this  Spring, 
is  truly  surprising;  and  the  quantity  of  water  drank  is 
not  only  incredible,  but  in  some  individual  cases  quite 
alarming.     It  is  related  that  ten  quarts  have  been  known 


56  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Hamilton  and  Putnam  Springs. 

to  have  been  drank  by  a  single  individual  before  break, 
fast.  The  mineral  combinations  of  this  Spring  vary  in 
some  respects  from  the  Washington.  It  holds  in  solu- 
tion more  magnesia  and  iron;  and  of  carbonic  acid  gas, 
the  difference  is  considerable  in  favor  of  Congress  Spring. 
The  waters  of  this  Spring,  as  a  medicine,  may  be  used  in 
all  cases,  with  propriety,  in  which  the  Washington  Spring 
waters  are  recommended;  and  in  several  others. 

Hamilton  Spring.  —  Passing  to  the  north  on  Putnam 
street,  Hamilton  Bath  House  and  Spring  are  next  observ- 
ed. This  water  is  esteemed  as  possessing  superior  diur- 
etic qualities.  It  is  still  a  little  more  charged  with  gas, 
has  more  saline  matter  and  soda,  but  less  magnesia  and 
lime,  but  the  difference  in  these  particulars  are  not  con- 
siderable. 

The  Baths  at  this  Spring  are  well  fitted  up,  and  are 
supplied  with  both  pure  and  mineral  water. 

Putnam's  Congress  Spring.  —  Pursuing  the  route 
along  Putnam  street,  this  Spring  is  next  in  order.  The 
waters  are  of  a  quality  equal  to  any  already  mentioned; 
and  a  Bath  House  with  every  suitable  convenience,  hav- 
ing also  pure  and  mineral  water,  is  near  at  hand. 

The  Pavilion  Springs.  —  Still  further,  on  the  same 
street,  lying  in  the  centre  of  the  ravine,  is  the  Pavilion 
Springs.  In  1839,  some  slight  appearances  of  a  Spring 
was  noticed,  and  the  enterprising  owner  of  the  property, 
D.  M'Laren,  Esq.  commenced  an  excavation.  He  fol- 
lowed the  Springs  down  for  about  35  feet,  when  the  foun- 
tains gushed  up  and  flowed  over  the  surface.  Nothing 
can  be  more  beautiful  than  these  fountains.  They  are  but 
a  few  feet  apart;  they  boil  up  with  crystilline  purity;  they 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  57 

Analysis  of  the  Waters. 

are  not.  turbed  or  yeasty,  but  air  and  water  seem  commin- 
gled with  a  brightness  and  brilliancy  altogether  indescri- 
bable. 

The  public  have  been  furnished  with  the  following 
analysis  of  one  of  these  fountains.  The  other  is  called 
the  Magnesia  Fountain. 

"  Pavilion  Fountain. — One  gallon  of  this  water  is 
found  to  contain  — 

Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 226.58 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 62.50 

Carbonate  Lime, 60.24 

Carbonate  Soda, 4.70 

Oxide  Iron, 4.10 

Iodide  of  Sodium, 2.75 

Bromide  of  Potassium, 2.75 

Silica, 62 

Alumina,         .25 

Total  grains, 361.74 

Cubic  inches. 

Carbonic  acid  gas, 480.01 

Atmospheric  air, 8.00 


Total  cubic  inches,    ....     488.01 

JAMES  THOMAS." 

Saratoga  Springs,  Aug.  12,  1840." 

As  to  the  peculiar  medical  qualities  of  these  fountains, 
if  materially  different  from  the  others,  time  and  experi- 
ence is  required  to  test  and  determine  their  value. 


58  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


Flat  Rock  and  Monroe  Springs. 


The  Flat  Rock  Spring.  —  Directly  north  from  the 
New  Saline,  is  the  Flat  Rock  Spring  and  Bathing  House. 
The  reputation  of  this  Spring  has  always  been  good,  and 
its  waters  are  used  freely  by  visitors.  The  minerals  they 
hold  in  solution,  vary  in  some  slight  respects  from  those 
already  mentioned.  The  proportion  of  saline  matter  and 
of  carbonic  acid  gas,  is  not  so  great  as  others  that  have 
been  spoken  of;  and  in  some  cases  of  disease  this  water 
is  more  useful  than  in  those  that  require  more  powerful 
remedies. 

The  Monroe  Springs.  —  A  few  rods  farther,  on  a 
small  plat  of  ground  of  less  than  an  acre,  are  three  Springs. 
These  perhaps  constitute  as  singular  an  assemblage  of 
Springs  as  was  ever  found  together  within  so  small  a 
compass.  One  is  chalybeate,  being  very  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  iron. 

One  is  sulphurous;  the  only  sulphur  Spring  introduced 
to  the  notice  of  visitors  at  the  village  of  Saratoga. 

The  other  is  a  fine  sparkling  acididous  water,  pungent, 
and  of  agreeable  flavor.  It  has  received  favor  as  an  anti- 
dyspeptic  drink;  it  sits  easier  on  the  stomach,  and  taken 
in  moderate  quantities,  is  not  attended  with  any  disagree- 
able sensation  of  heaviness  and  cold. 

The  American  Bath  House  at  these  Springe,  affords  all 
the  necessary  cpnveniences  to  visitors, 


JAUNT   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  59 


Higli  Rock  i^pririg. 


HIGH    ROCK    SPRING 

"  Thou  stream, 
Whose  source  is  inaccessibly  profound, 
AVhiih^r  do  thy  mysterious  waters  tend  ? 
Thou  inia^'st  my  life.-' 

Still  a  short  space  farther  north  is  the  High  Rock 
Spring.  This  is  the  most  ancient  of  all  the  Springs, 
and  was  well  known  to  the  aborigines  of  the  country  for 
its  curative  powers.  It  was  held  by  them  in  great  esti- 
mation, and  was  by  them  pointed  out  to  the  white  man. 
Around  it  nature  has  formed  a  curb  of  rock;  all  the  others 
are  secured  by  artificial  means. 

This  isolated  rock  is  about  three  feet  high,  and  about 
nine  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base,  diminishing  in  width 
towards  the  top;  the  waters  within  rise  about  a  foot  above 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  boiling  and  gurgling.  They  are 
seen  from  above  through  a  circular  opening  of  about  eight 
inches  in  diameter,  but  disappearing  through  some  unseen 
subterranean  passage.  This  is  one  of  those  singular  form- 
ations of  nature  which  excites  the  wonder  and  claims  the 
admiration  of  all  who  visit  it.  The  water  of  this  Spring 
is  not  used  as  much  as  formerly,  though  it  will  compare 
in  almost  every  respect  with  many  that  have  become  more 
popular. 


60  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Indian  Legend. 

It  is  supposed  that  the  fountain  once  flowed  over  the  top 
of  the  rock.  One  tradition  says,  that  a  tree  fell  over  the 
Spring  and  split  the  rock  at  the  bottom;  but  an  Indian 
tradition  accounts  for  it  in  another  way. 

INDIAN  LEGEND  OF  HIGH  ROCK  SPRING. 


Far  in  the  forest's  deep  recess, 

Dark,  hidden,  and  alone. 
Mid  marshy  fens  and  tangled  woods. 

There  rose  a  rocky  cone. 
It  was  a  strange,  mysterious  spot. 

And  near  no  mortal  dwell' d ; 
But  there  retired  the  sorcerer  priest, 
His  secret  orgies  held. 

II. 

There  the  fierce  tenants  of  the  wood 

On  one  another  prey'd. 
And  though  the  tuiiid  deer  were  slaui, 

Yet  fondly  round  they  stray'd  ; 
Theu-  natures  craved  the  saline  drauglu 

For  that  they  eager  sought, 
^Viid  oft  one  single  hasty  sip. 

Was  with  tlieir  life  blood  bougiit. 

III. 

Within  that  rocky  cone  a  spring 

Of  healing  waters  rose, 
And  o'er  tlie  top  it  ghtteriiig  spreads, 

And  down  the  sides  it  flows  ; 
It  looked  as  if  with  brilliant  gems. 

That  curtain'd  rock  was  bound, 
As  sparkling  hung  the  ahy  stream. 

Like  floating  drap'ry  round. 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  61 

Indian  Legend 


From  forth  the  forest  deepest  gloom, 

There  movetl  with  stealthy  pace, 
A  female  form  of  lovely  mould, 

And  beauty's  witching  face ; 
Upon  her  brow  the  smnmer  sun, 

And  the  free  desert  air 
Had  cast  a  mellow  auburn  tint, 

With  love  to  revel  there. 


She  came  to  bathe  in  that  pure  spring, 

As  forth  the  waters  boil'd  •, 
Her  hand  she  raised  to  touch  the  fount. 

Back  !   b;ick !   The  stream  recoil'd. 
Deep  printed  on  tliat  beating  heart, 

Forever  to  remain. 
In  spite  of  tears  and  cleansing  founts. 

There  was  a  guilty  stain. 

VI. 

Down  in  the  bosom  of  tlie  rock, 

The  gurghng  fountain  fell ; 
There  still  it  flows,  and  its  lone  sound, 

As  notes  of  warning  swell. 
That  guilty  one  in  frantic  fear. 

Fled  with  desponding  shame  ; 
Nor  was  she  ever  heard  of  more, 

And  none  recaU'd  her  name. 

The  spot  around  the  High  Rock  Spring  seems  to  be  the 
only  one  that  has  fallen  into  neglect.     It  should  not  be  so; 
ja  small  park  with  trees,  should  surround  it,  and  over  the 
Spring  should  be  erected  a  light  and  airy  temple. 
6 


62  JAUNT   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

AValton,  or  Iodine  Spring. 

The  Walton,  or  Iodine  Spring.  —  Not  far  from  the 
High  Rock,  in  a  northerly  direction,  is  the  Walton  or 
Iodine  Spring,  formerlj'-  called  the  President's  Spring.  It 
is  a  beautiful  water,  and  is  much  used  on  account  of  the 
medical  efficacy  of  Iodine  in  certain  diseases.  As  there  is 
also  lees  iron  in  it  than  in  the  other  Springs,  to  a  certain 
class  of  patients  it  will  prove  useful.  To  others  however, 
the  iron  forms  the  principal  virtue. 

On  account  of  the  Iodine,  this  Spring  has  been  recom- 
mended for  many  forms  of  scrofula,  goitre,  and  some 
other  diseases  of  a  hke  nature. 

Professor  Emmons,  of  the  Medical  College  in  Albany, 
and  one  of  the  New- York  State  Geologists,  has  furnished 
an  analysis  of  one  gallon  of  the  water  of  the  Walton 
Spring,  and  finds  that  it  contains  the  following  ingredi- 
ents : 

Grains. 

Muriate  of  Soda, 187 

Carbonate  of  Lime, 26 

Carbonate  of  Iron, 1 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 75 

Carbonate  of  Soda, 2 

Hydriodate  of  Soda,  or  Iodine, 3i 

Cubic  inches. 
Carbonic  acid  gas,  (from  water  which  had 

been  bottled  three  weeks,) 330 

Atmospheric  air, 4 

Besides  the  Springs  that  have  been  described,  several 
others  might  be  mentioned,  but  as  they  possess  no  pecu- 
liarity, and  are  but  seldom  visited,  it  will  be  sufficient- 
simply  to  enumerate  some  of  them. 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  63 

Ballston  Spa. 

The  Red  Spring,  about  eighty  rods  east  from  the 
High  Rock,  80  named  from  the  iron  hke  deposite  within 
and  around  it. 

The  Tex  Sprixgs.  —  These  are  about  a  mile  east  of  the 
village.  They  are  in  the  same  ravine  as  the  Saratoga 
Springs,  and  are  of  a  similar  description.  To  pedestrians, 
a  walk  to  these  Springs  is  an  agreeable  excursion. 

The  Ellis  Spring,  two  miles  south  of  the  village. 

The  Quaker  Springs,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  town, 
ten  miles  from  Saratoga. 

The  Sulphur  Spring,  on  the  east  side  of  Saratoga 
Lake.  This  Spring  is  well  spoken  of;  it  is  deeply  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur,  and  the  water  is  abimdant. 


BALLSTON    SPA. 


It  was  not  intended  to  notice  any  other  mineral 
Sprtngs  but  those  of  Saratoga;  by  omitting  to  describe 
the  Springs  cither  at  Ballston  or  other  places,  there  is 
no  intention  to  underrate  them  —  they  do  not  come 
within  the  limits  the  author  prescribed  for  this  work; 
yet  he  feels  it  incumbent  to  add  in  addition  to  the  slight 
notice  already  made  of  Ballston  Spa,  that  among  the 
Springs  yet  celebrated  at  that  place,  is  the 

Washington  Spring.  —  Its  chalybeate  quality  is  but 
little  intermixed  with  other  ingredients,  and  is  valuable 
to  those  who  wish  to  use  a  pure  water  of  this  description. 


C4  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Observations  on  Mineral  "Waters. 

One  of  the  Sans  Souci  Springs  is  used  for  its  cathartic 
effects,  and  to  some  it  is  an  agreeable  and  pleasant  drink. 

The  Park  Spring,  is  highly  spoken  of  as  being  among 
the  best  acidulous  chalybeate  water  afforded  in  this  or  any 
other  country. 

The  Sans  Souci.  —  This  is  very  similar  to  some  of  the 
best  Springs  of  Saratoga  in  its  acidulous,  chalybeate  and 
saline  qualities,  and  is  in  use  for  like  medical  purposes. 

By  these  hasty  notices  it  will  be  perceived,  that  as  well 
as  from  location  and  accommodation  for  visitors,  Ballston 
has  yet  in  its  rich  medical  waters,  a  strong  claim  upon 
the  public  for  a  portion  of  their  patronage. 


MINERAL    WATERS. 


Go  wash  in  Uic  pool  of  Siloam. 


The  cfHcacy  of  mineral  waters  to  cure  all  diecases  is 
not  to  be  expected,  and  by  their  greatest  advocates  so 
much  has  been  claimed  for  them;  but  that  they  possess 
curative  powers,  and  have  proved  successful  in  thousands 
of  cases,  has  not  been  denied  even  by  those  who  are  most 
incredulous  as  to  their  salutary  operation  in  general. 
Much  weight  however,  has  been  placed  upon  change  of 
air,  healthful  exercise,  cassation  from  ordinary  occupa- 
tions, variety  of  scenes,  amusements,  the  excitement  of 


JAUNT    TO    BARATOGA    SPRINGS.  65 

The  acidulous  waters. 

company,  and  the  like.  These  are  undoubtedly  valuable 
restoratives  to  feeble  habits.  Man  tires  with  the  dull 
round  of  occupation  to  which  day  after  day,  and  year  after 
year,  he  has  been  bound.  The  very  air  he  has  breathed 
80  long,  though  fresh  and  healthful  to  others,  is  no  longer 
80  to  him.  The  food  v^^e  eat,  be  it  ever  so  delicious,  if 
served  to  us  repeatedly,  palls  upon  the  appetite,  and  we 
turn  from  it  with  loathing.  It  is  the  same  with  the  at- 
mosphere; it  loses  its  accustomed  elasticity,  its  freshness; 
a  change  is  necessary;  and  when  we  return,  we  find  it  has 
resumed  its  pristine  purity  —  the  air  of  home  no  longer 
depresses,  but  refreshes.  To  give  to  home  all  its  value 
and  endearments,  nothing  can  be  better  than  travelling, 
or  an  occasional  excursion  abroad. 

To  those  in  ill  health,  much  ie  to  be  gained  by  a  resort 
to  medicinal  springs,  besides  the  advantages  derived  from 
the  use  of  the  water. 

Mineral  waters  are  usually  classed  under  four  heads. 

1st.  The  Acididous.  These  are  highly  charged  with 
carbonic  acid,  or  the  acid  of  charcoal.  They  sparkle  in 
the  glass  when  drawn  from  the  spring,  and  have  a  pun- 
gent taste.     The  Saratoga  waters  are  of  this  kind. 

2d.  Chalyhcatcs.  The  distinguishing  feature  of  these 
is  iron.  They  have  an  acrid  taste  ;  form  a  black  color 
with  galls,  or  oak  bark.  Some  of  them  are  also  acidu- 
lous.    The  Saratoga  waters  are  also  of  this  kind. 

3d.  Saline.  This  class  contain  different  saline  ingre- 
dients, such  as  sulphate  of  magnesia  and  soda,  muriates 
and  carbonates  of  soda  and  lime.  The  springs  also  of 
Saratoga  are  alike  of  this  class. 

4th.  Sulphurous.  Their  prevailing  character  arises 
6* 


66  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Saratoea  waters  as  a  beverage. 

from  the  presence  of  sulphurreted  hydrogen,  either  un- 
combined,  or  united  with  lime,  an  alkali,  iron,  &c. — 
One  of  the  Monroe  Springe,  at  Saratoga,  is  salphurous. 

These  are  the  four  great  classes  of  mineral  springs,  and 
of  some  of  these  are  all  the  celebrated  springs  scattered 
over  Europe  and  America.  At  Saratoga  there  is  combi- 
ned all  the  essential  virtues  of  those  that  are  most  highly 
approved.  They  are  Acidulous,  Chalybeate,  Saline,  and 
Sulphurous.  At  Saratoga  nature  has  left  nothing  want- 
ing in  this  respect,  but  Thermal  waters;  and  these  for 
all  useful  purposes,  are  furnished  by  art,  in  the  numerous 
and  commo'dious  baths  which  have  of  late  years  been 
erected. 

The  temperature  of  the  Saratoga  Springs  is  low,  and 
ranges  between  48°  and  51°  Fahrenheit. 


THE    USE    OP    THE    SARATOGA    WATERS    SIMPLY 
AS    A    DRINK,    AND    MEDICINALLY. 

"  Even  here,  let  not 

The  thoughtless  fashion  of  the  giddy  crowd 
Tempt  thee  too  far.'" 

If  used  simply  as  a  drink  by  those  who  are  in  health, 
when  no  medical  operation  is  desired,  all  that  is  required 
is  moderation.  The  temperate  use  of  them  is  healthful, 
and  beneficial:  but  to  use  them  to  excess  is  dangerous 
even  to  those  whose  health  is  sound. 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  67 

In  ill  health  consult  a  physician. 

Invalids,  and  all  those  who  desire  to  use  them  as  a 
medicine,  unless  they  are  themselves  well  acquainted 
with  mineral  waters,  and  the  nature  of  the  disease  with 
which  they  are  afflicted,  should  never  commence  upon 
their  use  without  first  consulting  with  a  regular  physi- 
cian, well  experienced  in  a  knowledge  of  the  medicinal 
effacts  of  mineral  waters.  Though  in  this  work  a  variety 
of  diseases  are  mentioned  in  which  these  waters  have  been 
used  beneficially,  yet  these  must  be  considered  as  mere 
indications  to  those  who  desire  to  use  them,  founded  on 
the  best  authority;  but  it  is  the  experience  and  authority 
of  others,  and  not  positive  directions  emanating  from  the 
author.  His  advice  is  always  to  consult  a  physician  who 
resides  upon  the  spot,  and  one  who  has  closely  studied 
the  character  of  diseases  in  general,  and  who  well  knows 
the  virtues  and  effects  of  the  medicine  to  be  used. 

To  those  who  desire  the  waters  to  operate  as  a  cathar- 
tic, it  is  recommended  that  they  rise  early  in  the  morning 
and  repair  to  the  spring  which  they  prefer,  and  take  two 
tumblers  of  the  water;  then  a  little  exercise  —  a  walk 
to  the  circular  railroad,  to  the  Washington,  or  Hamilton 
Spring,  where  one  more  glass  may  be  taken.  In  most 
cases  this  will  be  sufficient,  but  some  persons  require 
more,  and  a  glass  may  be  taken  at  Putnnm's  Congress, 
the  Pavilion,  the  Monroe,  Flat  Rock  and  Walton  Springs, 
in  all  about  four  pints.  This  is  the  utmost  limit,  and 
seems  to  be  too  large  a  quantity;  but  even  six  pints  have 
been  allowed;  but  more  should  in  no  case  be  presumed  to 
be  taken.  Some  however  have  imprudently  taken  much 
larger  quantities,  even  to  the  extent  of  two  gallons  and 
a  half  before  the  hour  of  dinner.     By  the  time  the  round 


68  JAttJTT  TO  SARATOOA   SPftlNdfl. 


Bntlilne  nt  the  Siirlagtt. 


of  flip  fiprln^  fans  brrn  mndo,  lhe  nppptiltj  will  bo  pre- 
pnrrd  fur  brcnklnpl,  nn«l  il  will  bo  jJiopor  (o  rvlum  to  Ihp 
bolol. 

A»  n  dnily  drink,  i'vnu  I'Mir  b>  oigbt  glnpspfi  iei  n  tunfubjr 
qunnlily;  nrdmnrily  il  is  nol  ndviwiblo  to  excood  Ibin  pnr 
dirni.  Wlieu  Ibo  wnirr  lies  bcnvy  on  Ibo  ptdnjnrb,  enur- 
ing nnj>lrnpnnl  PontmUonf",  its  uec  pbould  bo  dieconliiiuod. 


TllE    IRK    OK    TIIK    W  ATKRM    IN    nATIII\(;,    AND 
THK    jVATII    I.N     GENERA  I» 

"  Abnnn  r\  I'lirpiir,  fl'-iivrsi  <lr  Dnimm,  up  minl-iln  pni  inriUnira 
ijiir  Imilri  Ira  mux  (I'lernrll  ^Jr  iii'y  lavorolf-j'"  |>ii»«  liirn,  r(  jr 
(Irviriidroii  nrt  1" 

Wnlrriof  i)Inci'N  nrc  nol  only  rrrrnicnif'l  I'T  <))<•  piir- 
pow^  ol'  (IrMjkinti  \hv  wnlcr?",  but  jiIbo  for  nnolbor  ronmd- 
prntion,  ofirn  nioro  iniporlnnl  in  tbo  euro  of  dimnseB,  tbo 
judicious  URO  of  Ibo  l>nlb;  find  n«  llio  mn»!  lunpb'  nrrnnt/i> 
mcnta  nru  nindr  n(  Bninlot'fi  f'»r  bnlbilig,  nny  dircrliong  to 
visitors  woidd  bo  vrry  inconipb-ic,  wero  tbip  Biilijrct  omil- 
tod.  Ab  il  ift  d«n|/i>rnii9  to  druik  Ibo  wnUrfi  In  nny  gri^nt 
pxtont,  citbor  in  good  or  ill  bt-nllb,  wilboul  n  p(  rfcct 
knowlodgo  of  llu'ir  virlms  nn<l  powcrj*,  »o  lln'  bntb  Kluudd 
not  bo  rrporlt'd  lo  wiUkmiI  powrpeing  wnm-  ••\|ioricnro  or 
inforninlion  on  tbo  pobjoil.  Tbr  Imlbt-r  plmidd  nt  Irnst 
know  tbo  kind  of  bnlli  niuel  piulnble,  wb(Mi  t<i  Ih;  Inken, 
Ibo  tcDipcroture,  nml  tbo  Icngtbof  tiiiio  to  ruiiiuui  thcroiii. 


JAUNT    TO    BARATOOA    RPRINCIS.  00 


llf'iictlcliil  f>tlhMji  or  llif^  lliilli. 


Tim  Imtli,  M  a  rimwdy  for  lUmnho,  dhould  not  ho  naoil 
vmIIiiiiiI  fioiiio  kiiOv\l('(l;.^(;  of  Ihc  luibjri-t,  or  willtoiit  llio 
iiilvu-o  ol  a  phynirifin. 

'J'Iki  UM(i(|iii(y  ol  hiilliiiif/,  ill)  coticrnl  prnvftliiicr  Mmmi}.; 
rill  iinlioiiM,  find  itn  iir  rliiliii  ht  iih  n  iiitilln  of  iicihiiiiiiI  pu 
nly,  IH  knoNvri  find  »cktu>wlcd;^t'd  l>y  nil,  Iml  llir  r<  inrdinl 
viiIu<:hoI  llio  Imlli,  iJH  N(*(ii«iiifililr  find  |ii(i|i<  r  iinr,  iiiii  nut 
f.V'ii('rfilly  fippi'crinl(ul,  iind  l)ul.  liUlo  rn^tirdid.  Indrod  Ibu 
wlml^  roMiiil  ol'  llic  Mfifriiil  Mi'dicfi  dorM  iiol  filllird  Ho 
|.I(MM(in(  and  »iri'(niiiil  roinody  In  llii'  <iirr  ol  llic  niMiiy 
fliHrri;4<M  lo  snIiicIi  nifinkind  in  Miilijtv'l  iim  iIh^  lirilli,  win  n 
Hinli'd  lo  Ijir  riiiM',  find  Irnipcrcd  lu-cordin^;  l<>  llm  niiliin- 
rind  iiIm^.m!  oi  llio  (hni<>UM\  II  in  n  fi_(\turu\  icfinvHior  ol  llin 
In  iillli,  (ind  it°  fmy  (-xlnriird  fipplictilinii  cnn  ^iv(i  (nnd'orl, 
»idd  lo  Mlirnf/lli,  ini|»rovo  h^fnily,  or  krcp  nl  ii  ditiluncu 
llu)  ftdvnncrH  ol  fif.Mi,  il  i«  llin  tmlh.  (M  fdl  civdi/cd  peo- 
ple,    llir   Anici'icnnH  liiivc    |iiiid   llir   Irrinl   ntltnlion   In   itii 

UMC, 

Duel.  It)  II,  in  liiM  liook  on  Imlliiri^^,  ottHcrvrfl:  "  A  liftlli 
Iiouh*!  Hlioidd  Ik'  di-ciiii'd  oi  iniporlnnru  oidy  Hitcondnry  lo 
fi  kilclirn,  or  n  oonkinf/  hIovo,  find  nrlfiinly  hIioiiIiI  Inkf 
Hut  pn'rcdcncc  of  rooiiiA  iillod  willi  coHlly  (iirniliir(^  tin(i 
<l<'VOl.<'ti  (o  n>in|ifiny   kfcpiiiK." 

\h  lo  the  ciltTlH  of  hnlhin^^  upon  lliri  Iniriifin  fiyMlcni, 
Iho  I'oM  lifilli  in  j^'cncrfllly  flilowt-d  to  In-  Mrd/ilivr,  yt'l  it 
r»  lrt'«liiH.  'riio  l(|iri<i  and  wftriii  ImiIIim  lifivc  not  only 
ollcn  llic  Hdiiio  fdlirlH,  Iml  lliry  fire  fdno  fit  linnM  ntiinii 
lfltin^^  Thr  liol  tmtli  in  held  lo  tio  hji^ddy  Hlnniiliilin^'. 
In  Iho  luo  (d'  nil  ttic  liniliM  iniirli  dcpcndN  upon  liio  eoii- 
dilion  nnd  filnto  oi  Ik  filth  of  tlio  lifilher;  and  if  in  ill 
beollb,  fhf  illdcnw!,  niul  Iho  peculiar  filaf.;o  oi  liio  dinoiuto. 


70  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Cold  Batli. 

The  use  of  the  mineral  waters  of  Saratoga  for  the  pur- 
poses of  the  bath,  is  a  subject  of  much  importance,  but 
one  on  which  experience  seems  not  as  yet  to  have  shed 
any  great  degree  of  light.  Bathing  in  sulphurous  water 
has  long  been  advantageously  used  for  many  cutaneous 
diseases;  and  the  warm  sulphurous  bath  has  often  proved 
most  happy  in  its  effect  in  relieving  many  distressing 
cases  of  rheumatism,  but  always  after  a  long  and  perse- 
vering course. 

Of  the  other  waters  of  Saratoga,  and  indeed  those  for 
which  the  place  is  most  celebrated,  they  have  been  re- 
commended in  general  to  be  used  externally  in  the  bath, 
at  the  same  time  that  they  are  taken  internally.  It  is 
eaid  by  those  who  have  had  an  experimental  knowledge 
of  these  waters,  that  they  are  decidedly  superior  to  any 
others  for  this  purpose.  They  are  used  in  the  ordinary 
manner,  in  the  cold,  teprid,  warm  or  hot  bath. 


THE    COLD    BATH. 


"  Bathe  on,  my  fair 


I  go  to  guard  thy  haunt, 

To  keep  from  thy  recess  each  vagrant  foot, 
And  each  hcentious  eye." 

This  being  the  most  common  and  the  most  convenient, 
its  temperature,  time  of  use,  period  of  continuance,  and 
some  of  the  diseases  for  which  it  is  recommended,  will 
first  bo  mentioned. 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  71 

Suitable  time  for  Bathing. 

For  those  in  good  health,  the  proper  bath  is  immersion. 
The  temperature  of  the  cold  bath  for  remedial  purposes, 
ranges  from  50*^  to  70^  Fahrenheit.  Some  have  ranged 
it  as  low  as  from  32^  to  65'^  Fahrenheit. 

An  extraordinary  difference  of  opinion  exists  with  wri- 
ters on  the  power  and  effects  of  the  cold  bath;  one  holding 
that  it  is  stimulating,  the  other  that  it  is  sedative.  The 
latest  authorities  are  in  favor  of  its  sedative  effects. 

The  best  time  for  bathing  is  allowed  to  be  an  hour  be- 
fore dinner,  or  after  the  digestion  of  the  morning  meal; 
next  to  this  is  the  morning,  or  a  short  time  before  break- 
fast. If  after  the  bath  the  body  is  cold,  moderate  exer- 
cise should  bo  used  to  raise  it  to  its  proper  temperature. 
Bathe  when  the  stomach  is  empty,  and  not  after  taking 
food  until  the  digestion  is  over.  After  leaving  the  water 
wipe  the  body  briskly,  and  immediately  dress  with  suffi- 
cient clothing  to  preserve  the  healthful  temperature. 

To  bathe  every  other,  or  third  day,  is  usually  accounted 
sufficient. 

A  single  plunge  in  the  cold  bath  is  often  enough;  or- 
dinarily it  should  not  exceed  but  a  few  minutes. 

Soon  after  the  glow  of  warmth  is  felt,  caused  by  the 
shock,  we  should  withdraw,  and  not  remain  until  the 
body  becomes  chilled.  The  continuance  in  the  water 
should  never  be  longer  than  to  secure  a  proper  re-action, 
and  the  bath  should  never  be  used  when  the  temperature 
of  the  body  is  below  the  standard  of  health.  If  it  is  a 
fev»'  degrees  above,  the  bathing  will  be  more  agreeable. 

Medical  professors  have  prescribed  the  use  of  cold 
water,  externally,  in  many  cases;  they  are  generally 
known  by  an  excited   action  of  the  blood;  to  iuflamma- 


72  JAUNT   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Cases  in  which  tlie  Cold  Bath  may  be  used. 

tions  internal,  as  well  as  external.  Some  of  the  mobt 
enlightened  members  of  the  profession,  consider  the  ap- 
plication of  cold,  in  some  cases,  as  highly  important,  and 
at  times,  a  valuable  substitute  for  blood  letting. 

It  is  suitable  to  persons  in  good  health,  to  the  fleshy, 
to  the  temperate,  and  to  those  who  use  suitable  exercise. 

It  is  injurious  to  thin  habits,  old  men,  children,  cold 
constitutions,  and  those  live  who  intemperately  and  use 
no  exercise. 

It  is  dangerous  in  a  state  of  perspiration,  after  vomiting, 
purging,  watching,  and  to  those  who  are  not  accustomed 
to  it. 

In  nervous  diseases,  as  they  arise  from  different  causes, 
cold  bathing  may  be  useful  in  some  cases,  and  injurious 
in  others. 

Washing  the  head  in  cold  water  has  aggravated  the 
heaviness  and  pain. 

Bathing  the  feet  in  cold  water  is  injurious  to  the 
dyspeptic  and  hypochondraic. 

An  occasional  cold  sponging  is  useful  to  the  sedentary, 
engaged  in  close  and  confined  apartments,  at  the  desk, 
or  study — who  complain  of  troublesome  heat,  and  dry- 
ness of  the  hands,  and  sometimes  of  the  feet,  with  quick 
pulse   and   thirst. 

Cold  washings  and  affusions  in  cases  of  wounds,  bruises, 
and  even  old  sores,  when  used  persevering!  y,  have  had 
the  best  effects  in  allaying  pain  and  inflammation;  and  in 
many  instances,  have  effected  wonderful  cures  in  cases 
almost  hopeless. 

The  cold  bath  has  been  successfully  used  in  scarlet 
fever;  and  in  pains  accompanied  with  eruptions,  called 
miliary,  cold  affusions  have  been  used  advantageously. 


•(TaUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  73 

Sun  stroke  —  Lightning  and  Electricity. 

In  spitting  of  blood  from  the  lungs,  the  cold  bath  has 
been  used  to  good  puipose.  Cloths  dipped  in  well  water 
of  52°  Fahr.  applied  to  the  chest  of  a  patient  with  this 
disease,  arrested  the  flow  of  blood,  without  any  accom- 
panying or  subsequent  inconvenience. 

In  vomiting  of  blood,  and  in  bleeding  from  the  bowels, 
piles,  and  hemorraghage  —  cold  affusions  to  the  portion 
of  the  body  affected  has  proved  servicable. 

The  burning  of  the  skin  from  the  sun's  rays,  the  ac- 
companying head-ache,  violent  fever,  and  delirium,  and 
sometimes  insensibility,  constituting  what  is  called  a 
"sun's  stroke," — repeated  cold  affusions,  when  freely 
used,  have  had  the  best  effect.  Poisoning  from  opium 
and  narcotics. 

In  injuries  by  lightning,  or  when  struck  by  the  electric 
fluid,  several  pails  of  cold  water  having  been  thrown  on 
the  sufferer,  animation  and  life  have  been  restored. 

In  convulsions  and  spasmodic  diseases,  the  cold  bath 
has  been  greatly  resorted  to. 

Obstinate  constipation  of  the  bowels,  has  frequently 
been  relieved  by  cold  affusions.  To  be  used,  however, 
in  cases  where  there  is  much  heat  and  irritation  and 
when  no  danger  exists  of  stopping  perspiration.  The 
same  has  been  used  to  good  efiect,  in  inflammation  of  the 
joints,  dislocations  and  fractures. 

Females  with  cold  skins  and  phlegmatic  habits,  and 
exhausted  by  previous  disease,  and  who  are  clear  of  fever, 
will  be  injured  by  cold  bathing.  Palsy  of  the  tongue,  or 
loss  of  voice,  has  been  cured  by  the  cold  bath. 

After  any  aberration  from  intemperance,  the  cold  bath 
should  not  be  used  for  some  days. 
7 


74  JAUNT   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Tepid  and  Warm  Baths. 


THE    TEPID    BATH. 

Of  Ibis,  little  need  be  eaid,  as  it  ranges  between  the 
cold  and  warm  ;  or  between  70*^  and  92°  Fahrenheit,  and 
its  effects  are  altogether  intermediate. 


THE    WARM    BATH. 

The  success  of  the  warm  bath  depends  upon  the  well 
regulated  temperature  of  the  bath,  the  time  of  taking  it, 
and  on  exercise  and  regimen. 

The  hmits  of  the  warm  bath  are  between  92^  and  98° 
Fahrenheit.  A  thermometer  should  be  in  every  bathing 
room,  by  which  the  temperature  should  be  regulated, 
and  not  always  by  the  sensations  of  the  bather. 

In  general,  the  water  should  be  brought  to  a  luke-warm 
state  to  the  arm,  feeling  neither  hot  nor  cold.  After  the 
bath  is  entered  it  may  be  raised  to  its  proper  tempera- 
ture. Whether  the  warm  bath  is  to  prove  pleasurable, 
beneficial,  or  hurtful,  depends  mainly  on  its  temperature. 
For  those  in  health,  the  best  temperature  is  that  state 
which  produces  the  most  agreeable  sensations.  This  is 
ordinarily  found  to  be  between  93°  and  95°  Fahrenheit. 

Of  the  two  it  is  better  to  have  the  bath  rather  cool 
than  warm.  If  entered  too  warm  we  lose  the  power  of 
judging  the  degree  of  heat  most  beneficial. 


JAUXT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


The  great  excellence  of  the  Warm  Bath. 


Though  the  bath  be  of  the  same  degree  as  the  animal 
heat,  yet  after  a  few  minutes  immersion  the  heat  of  the 
body  will  be  very  materially  increased. 

The  bath  may  be  used  before  breakfast,  or  dinner,  but 
never  immediately  after  eating.  An  hour  or  so  before 
dinner,  after  the  digestion  of  the  morning  meal,  seems  to 
be  most  generally  recommended. 

Suitable,  though  not  severe  exercise  should  follow  the 
use  of  the  bath. 

The  apprehension  of  being  chilled,  and  suffering  from 
cold  by  exposure  to  the  open  air,  after  the  warm  bath,  ia 
not  well  founded;  the  usual  occitpations  of  life  can  be 
pursued  through  the  remainder  of  the  day,  not  only  with- 
out injury,  but  with  renewed  animation. 

The  air  in  the  bath  house  should  be  agreeably  warm. 
With  this  precaution  and  suitable  clothing,  there  is  no 
more  danger  of  going  into  the  cold  air  after  the  use  of 
the  bath,  than  from  a  warm  bed  in  a  winter's  morning. 
The  body  in  both  cases  is  refreshed,  and  is  truly  more 
able  to  resist  the  cold.  Doct.  Coffin,  of  Boston,  from 
whose  treatise  a  portion  of  the  compilation  on  this  sub- 
ject is  taken,  observes:  "  I  have  taken  the  warm  bath  in 
the  warmest  and  coldest  seasons  of  the  year,  more  with  a 
view  to  observe  its  effects  on  my  own  health,  than  need 
of  its  restorative  influence;  and  I  can  truly  say,  after 
bathing  in  both  extremes  of  weather,  that  I  have  been 
equally  and  uniformly  less  sensible  of  the  inconvenience 
from  heat  or  cold.  I  have  always  felt  more  light,  cheer- 
ful and  active,  and  more  inclined  and  better  fitted  for  a 
fuJl  and  successful  employment  of  the  powers  of  mind 
and  body."     Among  the  means  of  preserving  beauty,  as 


76  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Duration  of  ihe  Warm  Bath. 

well  as  health,  a  lady  recommends,  that  by  such  ablutions 
'*  all  accidental  impurities  are  thrown  off;  cutaneous  ob- 
structions removed;  and  while  the  surface  of  the  body  is 
preserved  in  its  original  brightness,  many  threatening 
disorders  are  checked  or  prevented.  By  such  means  the 
women  of  the  east  preserve  their  health  which  sedentary 
confinement  would  otherwise  destroy."  Darwin  says: 
**  To  those  who  are  past  the  meridian  of  life,  and  begin 
to  be  emaciated,  the  warm  bath,  for  half  an  hour,  twice  a 
week,  I  believe  eminently  serviceable  in  retarding  the 
advances  of  age." 

The  effects  of  the  warm  bath  are  tranquilizing,  it 
allays  excitement,  moderates  excessive  heat,  invigorates 
after  the  fatigue  of  a  journey,  and  always  refreshes  and 
renovates. 

The  duration  of  the  warm  bath  is  much  longer  than 
the  cold.  It  may  be  continued  from  half  an  hour  to  an 
hour;  some  have  even  taken  a  short  and  pleasant  sleep 
in  it. 

Though  the  most  suitable  time  for  using  the  bath  is 
considered  to  be  in  the  fore  part  of  the  day,  yet  it  may 
be  used  in  the  evening,  after  the  fatigue  of  travelling 
through  the  heat  and  over  dusty  roads;  but  not  upon  a 
full  stomach. 

A  part  only  of  the  cases  in  which  it  is  used  medicin- 
ally, are  the  following: 

Morbid  sensibility;  acute  pain  alone,  or  accompanied 
with  irregular  and  convulsive  action  of  the  muscles. 

Convulsions  of  children;  hysterical  affections  of  females; 
cholic,  from  the  simple  spasmodic  to  the  bilious  and  pain- 
ters. 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


Its  medical  use. 


Cramp  in  the  stomach,  and  obstinate  costiveness  of 
the  bowels.  Warm  bathing,  and  fumigations  with  cloths 
dipped  in  warm  vinegar  or  simple  warm  water,  will 
greatly  relieve  the  pain.  It  is  the  readiest  and  surest  re- 
lief to  be  offered  in  this  dangerous  and  painful  disease. 

Mania,  and  mental  derangement,  in  which  extreme 
wakefulness,  and  dry  skin,  are  predominant  symptoms. 

Infantile  cholera,  and  cholera  morbus  ;  dysentery  and 
diarrhoea,  more  particularly  of  the  chronic  kind. 

Warm  bathing  is  adapted  to  all  diseases  of  the  respira- 
tory organs. 

Catarrh  and  influenza,  whether  in  the  first  stages  or 
seated,  are  greatly  mitigated,  and  at  times  completely 
cured. 

Bronchitis,  especially  of  the  sub-acute;  asthma,  ner- 
vous or  spasmodic;  organic  affections  of  the  heart;  chro- 
nic inflammations  of  the  liver. 

The  most  obstinate  eruptions  of  the  skin  have  yielded 
to  this  remedy.  When  there  is  much  heat  and  itching, 
the  temperature  of  the  bath  should  not  exceed  90"^  Fah- 
renheit. 

In  the  early  stage  of  fevers,  a  warm  bath  would  fre- 
quently go  far  to  arrest  the  disorder. 

Recent  suppression  of  respiration;  pains  in  the  mus- 
cles. 

The  sickly  sensibility  and  pains  which  often  follow 
after  a  mercurial  course,  are  very  happily  abated  by  the 
warm  bath. 


78  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

The  Hot  and  Vapor  Baths. 

THE    HOT    BATH. 

The  hot  bath  is  generally  understood  to  be  of  a 
heat  exceeding  98°  Fahrenheit.  It  is  highly  stimulating 
and  is  often  violent,  and  marked  in  its  effects  on  the 
human  body. 

There  are  few  cases  in  which  the  hot  bath  can  be  used 
with  utility.  It  enfeebles;  and  is  pernicious  to  weak  and 
dehcate  persons. 

The  sanguinary  and  robust;  those  of  full  habits  and 
large  heads,  and  who  are  inclined  to  be  drowsy  after  ex- 
ercise, or  any  exertion,  after  a  meal;  those  who  are 
liable  to  spitting  of  blood;  or  whose  skins  are  very  sen- 
sitive to  heat  —  should  avoid  the  hot  bath. 

Persons  in  good  health  had  better  omit  it. 

The  advantages  of  the  hot  bath  in  some  long  con- 
tinued affections  of  the  skin,  has  been  admitted  by 
practitioners;  and,  in  a  vast  number  of  other  cases,  it 
has  been  judiciously  applied;  but,  without  a  full  know- 
ledge of  its  use,  or  medical  advice,  it  would  be  best 
not  to  resort  to  it. 


THE  VAPOR  BATH. 

"  The  ofl'rous  drug,  the  blazing  flame  consumes 
In  wary  clouds  ascend  its  rich  perfumes; 
Mildly,  perspiring  prone,  the  bather  lies, 
While  round  his  form  luxurious  vapors  rise." 

There  are  two  kinds  of  this  bath;  one  of  simple  watery 
vapor,  or  hot  dry  air;  the  other  medicated  or  compound, 
holding  in  solution  various  medicinal  substances. 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


Vapor  Batli  for  the  Hydrojihobia. 


It  is  necessary,  in  many  cases,  to  exclude  the  head 
from  the  vapor;  and  especially  so,  when  the  compounds 
are  of  a  deleterious  quality.  When  the  head  is  exposed 
to  the  simple  vapor,  the  stimulating  effects  of  the  bath 
are  greatly  increased. 

The  temperature  of  a  simple  vapor  bath  varies  from 
90°  to  150°  Fahrenheit. 

Vapor  acts  upon  the  surface,  and  produces  nearly  the 
same  effects  as  sponging  or  fomentation. 

The  information  as  to  the  medical  effects  of  the  vapor 
bath  i£  limited,  though  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  in 
modern  times,  it  has  been  much  used. 

In  cutaneous  diseases,  this  remedy  is  considered  valua- 
ble. Ulcers,  are  greatly  benefitted  by  moist  vapor  alone, 
or  in  alternation  with  sulphurous  and  mercurial  fumi- 
gations. 

It  is  useful  in  tumofactions  of  the  lymphatic  glands, 
especially  those  of  a  scrofulous  nature  along  the  neck. 

In  painful  affections  of  the  joints,  whether  chronic, 
gout  or  rheumatism,  it  proves  useful. 

Chronic  glandular  inflations  of  the  liver  and  pancreas, 
and  tumafactions  of  the  spleen,  are  often  much  relieved, 
and  at  times  effectually  cured. 

Chronic  affections  of  the  digestive  passages,  muscular 
rigidity,  suspended  animation,  and  some  stages  of  fever.   - 

In  all  the  cases  mentioned,  the  head  of  the  patient 
should  not  be  exposed  to  the  vapor. 

The  Hydrophobia,  too,  that  most  strange  and  horrid  of 
all  diseases,  it  is  said,  has  been  cured  by  the  vapor  bath. 
M.  Buison,  a  Parisian  physician,  in  a  late  publication, 
asserts  that  he  was  affected  with  this  disease,  that  on  the 


80  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRIXGS. 

Russian  Bath. 

ninth  day  after  receiving  the  infection  he  was  suddenly 
seized  with  pain  in  his  throat  and  eyes.  The  saliva  ran 
from  his  mouth,  a  current  of  air,  or  the  sight  of  brilliant 
bodies  gave  him  pain.  He  felt  disposed  to  run  and  bite; 
not  men,  but  animals  and  inanimate  bodies.  He  drank 
with  great  difficulty,  and  the  sight  of  water  was  distres- 
sing. The  symptoms  recurred  every  five  minutes;  the 
pain  seemed  to  commence  in  the  finger  which  had  received 
the  infection.  He  determined  to  sufiocate  himself  in  a 
vapor  hath;  for  this  purpose  he  caused  the  temperature 
to  be  raised  107^"  Fahrenheit,  when  he  was  soon  surpri- 
sed and  delighted  to  find  the  symptoms  disappear;  and  he 
left  the  bath  well.  Since  then  he  has  treated  more  than 
eighty  patients,  in  four  of  whom  the  symptoms  had  de- 
clared themselves,  and  in  no  case  has  he  failed,  except  in 
that  of  a  child,  seven  years  old,  who  died  in  the  bath. 
The  mode  of  treatment  he  recommends  is,  that  the  person 
bitten  should  take  a  number  of  vapor  baths,  commonly  cal- 
led Russian,  and  should  induce  every  night,  a  violent  per- 
spiration, by  wrapping  himself  in  flannel,  and  covering  him- 
self with  a  feather  bed.  The  perspiration  is  formed  by 
drinking  freely  of  a  warm  decoction  of  sarsaparilla  tea. 
He  declares  that  he  is  so  well  convinced  of  the  efficacy  of 
this  treatment,  that  he  will  suffer  himself  to  be  innocu- 
lated  with  the  disease. 

The  only  peculiarity  of  the  Russian  bath  is,  that  the 
vapor  is  formed  by  pouring  water  on  heated  stones. 

The  reader  who  is  desirous  of  more  extended  informa- 
tion on  the  subject  of  bathing,  its  history,  general  useful- 
ness, and  in  reference  to  its  curative  powers,  is  referred  to 
the  work  of  John  Bell,  M.   D.  "  on  baths  and   mineral 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  81 

The  Douche  Bath. 

waters,"  a  work  that  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  phy- 
sician, in  every  library,  and  every  bathing  house.  The 
author  acknowledges  his  indebtedness  to  that  work  for  no 
inconsiderable  portion  of  this  compilation  on  the  subject 
of  mineral  waters  and  bathing. 


THE    DOUCHE    BATH. 


This  is  formed  from  one  or  more  spouts  that  throw  a 
jet  of  water  on  the  body,  or  on  n  particular  part  of  it. 
It  may  be  constructed  so  as  to  be  descending,  oblique, 
vertical,  or  ascending. 

The  Douche  bath  is  considered  most  effectual  at  100*^ 
Fahrenheit,  or  a  little  rising.  It  may  be  of  cold,  warm, 
or  hot  water;  or  of  vapor. 

Hot  jet  baths  are  had  recourse  to  in  diseases  of  an  asth- 
mic  nature,  and  which  from  long  standing  are  known  by 
the  name  of  chronic.  The  duration  of  the  jet  may  be 
from  a  quarter  to  half  an  hour  daily. 

In  delirium  tremens,  tumefactions  of  the  viscera,  with- 
out fever;  paralysis;  cholics;  chlorosis;  swellings  of  the 
joints,  without  redness  or  pain,  whether  rheiunatic,  gouty, 
or  scrofulous  after  the  subsidence  of  fever,  and  clearing  of 
the  digestive  passage.  These  are  but  a  small  portion  of 
the  diseases  that  have  been  beneficially  acted  upon  by  the 
use  of  this  remedy. 


82  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Diseases  for  wliich  the  Saratoga  waters  are  recommended. 

Ablution,  or  sponging,  is  a  mild  application  of  a  fluid. 
As  it  admits  of  local  use,  it  is  often  more  suitable  than 
any  other  method.  Wet  cloths  applied  to  the  skin  act  in 
the  same  way  as  sponging.  Either  cold  or  warm  liquids 
may  be  used. 

Affusion,  or  the  shower  bath,  when  cold,  gives  a 
greater  shock  than  the  bath,  but  there  is  more  inequal- 
ity in  its  employment. 


DISEASES    FOR    WHICH    THE    SARATOGA    WATERS 
ARE    RECOMMENDED. 

."  There  is  an  acliing  void  in  ev'ry  heart, 
The  sad  attendant  of  man's  weary  life  — 
For  all  diseases  else,  kind  nature  gives 
Some  healing  draught.     For  this  there's  none  — 
Earth  yields  no  balm  for  this.  - — " 

There  are  a  great  variety  of  diseases  in  which  these 
waters  act  most  beneficially,  and  very  often  perfectly 
cure;  yet  so  much  depends  upon  the  stage  of  the  disease, 
that  it  is  unsafe  to  give  a  wholesale  recommendation.  In 
some  diseases  they  are  useful  in  the  incipient  stages,  and 
injurious  when  the  same  diseases  are  further  advanced. 
In  other  cases  it  is  the  reverse  of  this.  For  these  reasons 
it  is  difficult  to  enumerate  fully  all  the  diseases  for  which 
the  waters  may  be  used,  as  it  might  be  the  means  of  mis- 
loading  some  who  are  too  much  disposed  to  confide  in 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  83 

The  Springs  applicable  to  particular  diseases. 

what  they  find  published;  or  to  depend  too  much  on  their 
own  discretion.  It  may  again  be  repeated,  to  use  the  waters 
with  safety,  and  most  advantageously,  always  take  the  ad- 
vice of  a  practical  physician. 

Visitors  have  been  warned  against  using  them  in  pul- 
monary affections,  and  diseases  of  the  lungs;  and  yet  this 
needs  some  quaUfication.  The  case  can  only  be  decided 
by  the  medical  adviser.  In  ophthalmia,  or  inflammation 
of  the  eyes,  they  have  been  used  to  great  advantage. 

In  dropsy,  they  are  declared  to  be  inadmissible.  Dys- 
pepsia, both  admissible  and  inadmissible. 

In  scrofula,  they  are  highly  commended.  The  Spring 
containing  the  most  Iodine  ebould  be  used  —  it  is  the 
Walton. 

In  paralysis,  they  are  very  useful. 

In  rheumatism,  much  benefit  is  derived  from  them. 
They  should  be  used  internally,  and  accompanied  exter- 
nally at  the  same  time  with  the  warm  bath.  The  sulphu- 
rous waters  are  to  be  preferred  for  this  disease. 

In  bilious  diseases,  if  not  of  long  standing. 

In  nephritic  complaints,  and  calculus,  they  have  been 
very  successfully  used. 

In  ulcerous  sores,  and  cutaneous  eruptions. 

Those  Springs  that  are  most  acidulous  are  more  par- 
ticularly recommended  for  fevers  of  a  typhoid  type,  nau- 
sea, vomiting,  and  relaxation,  and  want  of  tone  of  the 
stomach.  Such  are  the  Walton  or  Iodine,  the  Hamil- 
ton, the  Congress,  the  Monroe  and  the  High  Rock,  and 
some  others. 

Those  waters  that  are  most  strongly  impregnated  with 
iron,  are  useful  as  tonics;  they  stimulate  and  increase  the 


54  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

The  Spruigs  applicable  lo  certain  diseases. 

circulation.  In  chlorosis,  fluor  albus,  amenorrhoea,  nervous 
diseases,  and  in  general  debility  and  derangement  of  the 
whole  system,  they  are  very  useful.  Of  such  is  the 
Congress;  the  Sans  Souci,  at  Ballston;  the  High  Rock, 
the  Monroe,  the  Hamilton,  and  the  Flat  Rock. 

The  Springs  in  which  tlie  saline  qualities  predominate, 
are  used  to  keep  the  body  gently  open,  without  severe 
purging,  by  means  of  which  the  appetite  and  strength  is 
increased.  Such  is  the  Congress,  the  Monroe,  the  Wash- 
ington, the  Hamilton,  and  Putnam's  Congress. 

The  sulphurous  are  valuable  in  glandular  swellings, 
chronic  rheumatism,  gout,  scurvy,  and  cutaneous  dis- 
eases generally.  Such  is  one  of  the  Monroe  Springs, 
and  the  Sulphur  Spring  on  the  east  side  of  Saratoga  lake; 
and  all  the  bath  houses  at  Saratoga  are  provided  with 
sulphurous  water  for  the  purposes  of  bathing.* 

*  For  many  niattcrs  relative  to  the  analysis  of  (he  Saratoga  and 
Ball-ton  waters,  and  their  medical  use  and  properties,  Uie  reader  is 
referred  lo  the  excellent  work  of  Doct.  Steel,  published  in  iS36. 


?2« 

E-^i^-^S  2  ^  5.  r 

g^-*  3Ionroe,  .     5   b" 
c.     Springs      |  = 

1  '                    '     =■  T- 

K 
O 

^:s 

CO 
.0 

a. 
o 

CT      cn  OT 

0           0    0 

Temperature. 

11 

?^ 

b 

o      o  o 
by      woo 

;Spccific  gra- 
vity. 

ii  !2  •?  -S  r 

Quantity  ana- 
lysed. 

o 

i 

C5 

JC  :,;  (ic  rC 

cc  Qc  c:  'JO 

r!  •''"  ^'  r; 

Muriate  Soda. 

6:j 

J^ 

Oi  w  <o  iO 

Hyilriodate  of 
!*orla. 

4^  >U 

CI  Jo 

G5 

Carbonate  of 
Lime- 

03  01 

r9' 

CO  b  en  Ko 

Carbonate  of 
Iron. 

P^2 
i 

0DH-<O 

Carbonate  of 
Magnesia. 

<l  W  wT  O 

Carbonate  of 
Soda. 

lOH 

iodine. 

S"^ 

^ 

Silix. 

ps: 

^^^ 
^O 

bb 

p-pl 

Garl'onic  acid 
gas. 

^j" 

poo 

•    •    boos 

Atmospheric 
air. 

86  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Medicinal  AVaters  of  Europe. 

In  addition  to  the  preceding,  the  Pavilion  Fountain,  at 
Saratoga  contains  the  following: 

Grains. 

Chloride  Sodium, 226.58 

Oxide  Iron, •     .     .         4.10 

Iodine  of  Sodium,     . 2.75 

Bromide  of  Potassium, 2.75 

Alumina, 25. 

The  bottling  and  use  of  the  waters  at  a  distance  from 
the  Springs,  are  matters  of  importance  to  those  who  use 
them.  The  residents  of  Saratoga  say  that  none  of  the 
waters  bottle  so  well  as  the  Congress  and  Iodine  Springs. 
They  leave  no  sediment,  but  when  drawn  they  are  fine 
and  pure.  The  others  often  cast  a  red  sediment,  and 
when  uncorked,  they  are  found  to  have  a  dull  and  milky 
appearance.  In  the  use  of  bottled  water,  the  same  salu- 
tary effects  must  not  in  all  cases  be  expected  from  them, 
as  if  used  at  the  Fountains,  with  all  the  accompaniments 
of  new  scenery,  change  of  air,  gay  company,  music,  and 
the  thousand  other  excitements  of  travel. 

Of  the  medicinal  waters  of  Europe,  those  under  the  de- 
nomination of  "  Spa  waters,"  are  the  most  celebrated.  Of 
this  kind  are  Pyrment,  in  Westphalia;  Forges  and  Passy, 
in  France;  and  Tunbridge  and  Brighton,  in  England. 
But  the  most  noted  are  those  of  Spa,  a  small  town  in  the 
mountainous  district  of  Belgium,  which  forms  a  part  of 
the  fount  of  Ardennes,  the  noted  scene  of  one  of  Shakfl- 
peare's  plays.  The  Pouhon  Spring  water  at  this  place, 
was  analysed  by  Doct.  Jones,  in  1816.  The  following 
result  shows  that  the  Saratoga  waters  are  much  more 
richly  charged  both  with  gas  and  mineral  properties. — 


JATTXT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  8/ 

The  village  of  Saratoga. 

Temperature,   50*^;   one   gallon  of  water,   or   231   cubic 

inches,  produced 

Grains. 

Sulphate  of  Soda, 99 

Carbonate  of  Soda, 2.25 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 1.80 

Silix,      .     .     .  " 2.26 

Loss, 2.94 

Muriate  of  Soda, 1.16 

Carbonate  of  Lime, 9.87 

Oxide  of  Iron, 5.24 

Alumina, 20 

Carbonic  acid  gas,  262  inches;  less  by  GS  cubic  inches 

to  the  gallon  than  some  of  the  Saratoga  Springs. 


THE    VILLAGE    OP    SARATOGA. 


Green  arching  boughs  hung  over  where  I  sat. 

And  through  the  parting  leaves,  dazzling  and  beautiful, 

The  sunbeams  pour'd  rich  streams  of  golden  light." 


The  village  of  Saratoga,  is  in  the  northwest  part  of  the 
town  of  Saratoga,  in  the  counfy  of  the  same  name.  It 
is  laid  out  upon  a  plain  broken  only  by  the  ravine  of  the 


88  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Expenditure  of  visitors  the  source  of  wealth. 

Springs,  through  which  there  courses  a  small  fresh  water 
brook.  The  direction  of  this  rivulet  through  the  village 
is  northern;  from  the  upper  end  of  the  village  it  passes 
off  in  an  eastern  direction,  first  emptying  into  Owl  creek, 
and  afterwards  into  Saratoga  I^ake.  Although  this  brook 
passes  directly  through  the  low  ground  from  whence  all 
the  principal  medical  Springs  issue,  and  the  waters  of 
which  mingle  more  or  less  with  it,  yet  to  the  taste  it  ap- 
pears not  to  be  impregnated  with  any  of  their  mineral 
qualities.  The  village  was  incorporated  by  an  act  of  the 
legislature,  in  April,  in  1826.  It  is  for  its  situation, 
suitably  kid  out;  a  part  is  compactly  built,  and  many 
handsome  dwellings  and  seats  are  observed  around;  some 
commanding  fine  views,  and  others  almost  hid  from  sight 
in  groves  of  evergreens. 

As  a  place  of  business,  Saratoga  has  nothing  to  recom- 
mend it  but  its  Springs  —  from  these  its  wealth  and  capital 
is  derived;  and  the  expenditures  of  strangers  constitutes 
to  the  business  men  of  the  place  their  only  Income  and 
dependance. 

The  trustees  and  inhabitants  of  the  village  are  entitled 
to  much  credit  for  the  order  and  cleanliness  of  the  streets, 
for  the  shade  trees  that  they  have  planted,  and  for  the 
care  and  neatness  in  which  the  fine  groves  are  kept,  for 
which  the  place  is  distinguished. 

Saratoga  being  a  healthy,  as  well  as  a  pleasant  and 
fashionable  place,  many  gentlemen  of  wealth  and  dignity, 
have  chosen  it  as  their  residence. 

The  act  by  which  the  village  is  incorporated  gives  to 
the  trustees  power,  by  the  written  consent  of  the  owner 
of  the   land  on  which  any  modicinal  or  mineral  Springs 


JAUNT   TO   SARATOGA   SPRINGS.  89 

Saratoga  before  it  was  settled. 

are  situated,  to  make  erections  about  such  Springs,  for 
the  accommodation  of  those  who  visit  the  Springs,  for  the 
purpose  of  drinking  or  otherwise  using  the  waters;  and  it 
is  their  duty  to  see  that  the  passage  is  kept  open  to  and 
from  the  Springs,  and  to  appoint  proper  persons  to  attend 
the  Springs  to  draw  the  water  for  such  as  wish  to  drink, 
or  make  use  of  them,  without  demanding  any  compensa- 
tion. 

At  an  early  day,  the  present  site  of  Saratoga  was  most 
forbidding,  wild  and  uninteresting;  it  was  more  congenial 
for  the  abode  of  bears,  wolves,  and  other  ferocious  beasts 
of  the  forest,  than  for  man.  Of  these  great  numbers  re- 
sorted about  the  marsh,  the  waters  being  very  agreeable 
to  them. 

The  ravine  in  which  the  Springs  are  situated,  was  an 
almost  impassable  morass;  where  it  was  not  filled  with 
fallen  trees,  rubbish  and  brush  wood,  black  and  noxious 
mire  holes  were  seen,  on  which  it  was  dangerous  to  ven- 
ture. Even  the  air  was  impregnated  with  a  foul  stench 
which  arose  from  the  marsh,  and  sickness,  especially  fevers 
and  chills,  preyed  severely  for  many  years  upon  the  first 
settlers.  What  a  change  has  the  labor  of  man  produced? 
Not  only  now  are  there  beautifid  fields,  shady  groves, 
attractive  gardens,  elegant  and  comfortable  dwellings, 
but  the  very  air,  from  being  noxious  and  insalubrious,  has 
become  pure  and  healthy.  There  are  very  few  places 
more  thriving,  or  that  are  faster  advancing  in  business 
and  improvements,  than  Saratoga. 
8* 


90  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Character  of  Public  Houses. 

PUBLIC    HOUSES. 
"  A  Yankee  can  keep  a  tavern."  —  Foreign  Traveller. 

The  character  of  some  of  the  public  houses  at  the  Springs 
is  of  the  very  first  order,  and  all  are  respectable.  Some  are 
particularly  the'  resort  of  statesmen,  of  office  holders  and 
politicians;  and  the  great,  and  would  be  great.  With 
these  are  mingled  gentlemen  of  the  turf,  connoisseurs  of 
the  odd  trick,  and  the  amateurs  of  poker.  With  these 
too  will  be  found  the  exclusivea  of  society,  whether  Pres- 
byterian, Romanist,  or  Churchman;  the  fashionable  lady, 
and  belle  of  high  pretensions. 

In  another  house  will  be  observed  Clergymen,  and  their 
families,  respectable  professional  gentlemen,  and  persons 
and  characters  whose  demeanor,  though  sober  and  retiring, 
are  yet  affable  and  genteel. 

The  substantial  farmer  and  tradesman,  are  often  observ- 
ed at  another  house.  It  is  thus  that  people  while  at  Sar- 
atoga fall  into  a  particular  class;  not  one  formed  by  any 
arbitrary  riile,  but  as  they  are  pleased  to  rank  themselves 
with  each  other  at  the  different  hotels. 

It  would  be  a  pleasure  to  enlighten  strangers  on  this 
subject,  but  the  task  is  so  invidious  that  it  must  be  omit- 
ted. The  advertisements  of  the  keepers  of  the  hotels 
must  in  this  respect  be  regarded.  The  price  of  board  at 
Saratoga  is  mentioned  at  page  16.  Rooms  and  tenements 
furnished  and  unfurnished,  for  the  use  of  families,  may  be 
obtained  for  rent. 

On  the  whole,  strangers  can  meet  with  every  desirable 
acconmiodation,  at  the  public  houses,  private  boarding- 
houses,  at  the  resturateurs,  or  in  their  own  hired  apartments. 


JAUNT   TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  91 

Amusements. 


AMUSEMENTS. 

"  Ring,  joyous  cords  !  —  ring  out  again  ! 
A  swifter  still  and  a  wilder  strain  ! 
And  bring  forth  wreaths  !  —  we  will  banish  all 
Save  the  pure  in  heart  from  the  festive  hall !  — 
On,  through  the  maze  of  the  fleet  dance,  on  1" 

For  a  place  so  retired,  the  amusements  are  various,  and 
are  so  ordered  as  to  suit  the  taste  of  those  who  are  to  par- 
take of  them.  Visitors  from  the  cities  find  enough  of 
green  shades,  pleasant  rides,  pure  air,  and  fine  country 
eating,  to  make  the  place  agreeable;  and  those  who  are 
from  the  country,  see  enough  of  new  things,  odd  charac- 
ters, and  fine  fashions,  to  make  their  time  pass  pleasantly; 

"  And  with  sweet  novelty  the  soul  detiiin." 

The  circular  railroad  is  a  very  pretty  thing.  It  is  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  village,  on  a  beautiful  ter- 
race, completely  shaded  with  ever  green  trees;  and  from 
the  spot  is  afforded  to  the  spectator  a  charming  sylvan 
prospect.  The  road  is  in  circumference  the  eighth  of  a 
mile;  it  has  two  tracks  on  which  two  light  airy  cars  re- 
volve in  opposite  directions.  The  cars  resemble  the  light 
body  of  a  gig,  and  are  provided  with  a  seat  for  a  lady  and 
a  gentleman.  With  much  ease  the  gentleman  gives 
power  to  the  movement,  and  when  both  cars  are  flying 
round  with  the  velocity  of  the  wind,  and  passing  each 
other  as  feathered  arrows,  a  thousand  fashionable  prome- 
naders,  chatting  and    laughing,  fill   up   the  ground;   the 


99  JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Covent  Garden —  Gauihling. 

scene  is  truly  joyous  and  animating.  All  who  visit  the 
Springs  can  partake  in  this  amusement,  as  it  is  exhilara- 
ting, and  a  diversion  in  every  respect  unobjectionable. 

The  cost  of  this  railroad  was  eleven  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars;  and  the  charge  for  riding  three  times  round,  is 
twelve  and  half  cents. 

Next  to  the  circular  railroad,  are  the  public  gardens. 
The  Recreative  garden  has  three  bowling-alleys,  one  of 
which  is  exclusively  for  the  use  of  ladies. 

Covent  garden,  besides  rustic  huts,  summer  houses, 
and  shady  bowers,  has  a  platform  of  flying  horses.  These 
with  their  riders,  are  whirled  around  with  great  rapidity. 

There  are  in  the  village  altogether,  thirteen  bowling- 
alleys,  several  billiard  tables,  and  in  the  season  of  visiting, 
all  the  apparatus  and  paraphanalia  of  gambling  and  dissi- 
pation. Such  are  the  accompaniments  of  the  throng  that 
find  their  way  to  the  Springs  in  the  summer.  They  are 
not  acknowledged  as  a  part  of  the  regular  inhabitants  of 
the  place.  The  citizens  of  Saratoga  are  a  steady,  quiet 
people,  and  no  way  inclined  to  participate  in  the  follies 
and  dissipation  which  is  annually  poured  in  upon  them. 

Another  great  source  of  amusement  is  riding.  Not  less 
than  thirty  five  thousand  dollars  worth  of  livery  property 
is  owned  at  the  Springs,  for  the  use  of  strangers,  and 
which  to  the  owners  produce  a  handsome  income.  Coach- 
es, barouches,  curricles  and  gigs,  are  used.  Of  late  years 
the  fashion  of  riding  on  horseback,  both  by  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  has  been  revived,  and  is  much  followed  at  the 
Springs. 

Among  the  many  places  to  which  visitors  ride,  are  the 
following: 


JAUNT    TO    SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  93 

Balls  and  Assemblies. 

Barhyt'8  fish  pond,  two  miles  east.  It  produces  trout, 
and  affords  fine  amueement  to  anglers.  He  charges  for 
the  privilege  of  fishing,  aud  requires  that  what  is  caught 
shall  be  cooked  on  his  premises. 

The  Lake  House,  on  Saratoga  Lake,  4  miles;  where 
a  game  dinner,  coneieting  of  fish,  and  wild  game,  is  fur- 
nished to  gourmands,  for  ^2.  The  lake  is  9  miles  long, 
and  3  wide. 

Bemis's  Heights,  and  other  memorable  scenes  of  the 
revolution  around  the  eventful  battle  grounds  of  Saratoga, 
are  still  much  resorted  to. 

To  Glen's  Falls,  about  20  miles.  To  Lake  George,  28 
miles.     To  these  places  stages  go  daily. 

Niskayuna,  the  Shaker  settlement,  on  the  Mohawk 
river,  is  16  miles. 

Schuylersville,  where  Burgoyne  laid  down  his  arms, 
is  12  miles. 

Besides  riding,  promenading  round  the  village,  visiting 
the  Springs  and  gardens,  there  is  got  up,  when  there  is 
much  company,  balls,  assemblies  and  cotillion  parties. 
These  are  held  at  some  of  the  highest  public  houses. 
Cake,  ice  creams,  fruits,  wines,  and  other  refreshments 
are  furnished.  The  tickets  of  admission  cost  from  $1,50 
to  $2. 

A  more  costly,  and  of  course  more  fashionable  order  of 
assemblies,  are  sometimes  held,  called  Champagne  balls. 
Tickets  to  these  are  usually  $5. 

At  two  of  the  principal  public  houses  a  band  of  music 
is  employed.  The  band  performs  alternately  at  each 
house  at  dinner  and  tea. 

There  are  also  at  tho  Springs  two  public  libraries  and 
reading  rooms;  and  two  weekly  newspapers. 


94  JAUNT   TO   SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

Churches. 


CHURCHES. 

There  is  a  Presbyterian  church,  a  Baptist,  and  a  small 
Episcopal  Chapel,  a  Methodist  chapel,  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  church  is  now  building. 

The  middle  seats  of  the  Presbyterian  church  are  all 
reserved  for  the  use  of  strangers;  at  the  Baptist  Church 
they  are  respectfully  received,  and  the  Episcopal  chapel, 
and  Methodist,  are  free.  These  last  denominations  are 
also  building  new  churches. 


PART  III. 

THE   FALLS   OF    NIAGARA, 

DESCRIPTION    OF    THIS 

WONDER    OF    NATURE, 

OF    THE 

WHIRLPOOL,     ISLANDS, 

A  JAUNT  TO  CANADA, 

TABLE    ROCK  — BROCK'S    MONUMENT,    &c. 


THE    ARRANGEMENT, 


The  colloquial  form  has,  in  some  places  been  adopted, 
in  affording  directions  and  information  to  travellers.  The 
obsei-vations  of  the  guide,  and  the  remarks  of  the  visitors, 
have  been  in  some  places  transcribed.  In  this  manner, 
the  information  which  has  been  garnered  np  for  years,  is 
imparted  to  strangers  in  its  appropriate  place. 

The  sketches  are  made  in  a  tour  round  the  Falls,  and 
vicinity;  and  is  divided  into  four  Jaunts. 

The  First  Jaunt  is  to  the  Falls  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  or,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  the  American 
Falls.  It  may  be  made,  from  the  hotels,  in  half  an  hour; 
i)ut  the  feelings  of  those  who  go,  will  determine  the  pe- 
riod of  their  stay.  Some  have  thought  half  a  day  a  short 
time  to  spend  in  viewing  the  cataract  from  that  position, 
and  the  other  objects  to  which  their  attention  is  drawn. 

The  Second  Jaunt  is  to  the  Islands.  Bath,  Iris  or 
Goat,  and  the  other  little  adjoining  Islands  that  are  ac- 
cessible.  It  may  be  made  in  two  hours.  Many  persons 
spend  a  day,  and  repeat  the  visit  frequently,  asserting, 
that  the  interest  excited  increases  the  oftener  the  scene  is 
beheld. 
9 


98  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

The  Arrangement. 

The  Third  Jau>'T  is  to  the  Whirlpool.  It  requires 
three  hours;  and,  if  extended  to  the  Devil's  Hole,  Indian 
Village,  and  old  Fort  Niagara,  a  day  or  more  will  be  plea- 
santly spent  in  the  excursion. 

The  Fourth  Jaunt  is  to  Canada.  This,  like  the  visit 
to  the  Falls,  may  be  accomplished  in  less  than  an  hour; 
but  it  would  be  superficial.  Very  few  are  satisfied  with 
such  a  slight  peep  into  her  Majesty's  dominions.  They 
like  to  visit  Table  Rock,  and  take  a  look  below,  through 
the  mist  and  under  the  sheet  of  falling  water. 

In  speaking  of  the  time  to  be  consumed  in  looking  at 
and  around  the  greatest  cataract  in  the  world,  reference 
is  had  to  those  who  travel  with  railroad  speed,  and  such 
are  travellers  in  general,  in  these  days;  and  not  to  those 
who  have  leisure.  To  such  as  have  time  and  opportunity, 
no  period  can  be  fixed;  all  depends  on  their  own  impres- 
sions. If  they  are  unexcited  and  uninterested,  their  stay 
will  be  short;  they  will  cast  a  dull  and  unimpassioned 
look  over  the  scene,  and  hurry  away.  Others  who  have 
felt  differently,  have  remained  weeks  and  months  at  the 
Falls,  still  extolling  them,  and  spending  their  time  much 
to  their  satisfaction. 


A  JAUxNT 


THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA, 

OX  THE 

AMERICAN   SIDE. 


THE  TRAVELLERS. 


A  party  from  q  dislnnt  city  arc  on  a  tour  of  pleasure 
to  the  Falls.  There  are  three  principal  routes  on  the 
American  side  that  lead  to  this  celebrated  place. 

One  from  the  upper  lakes,  the  south  and  the  east, 
through  the  city  of  Buffalo,  from  thence  by  railroad  to 
the  place  of  destination: 

One  from  Canada,  and  the  lower  lakes,  via  Lewieton, 
and  from  thence  also,  by  railroad: 

The  third,  from  the  east,  by  the  Erie  canal,  railroads, 
stages  and  steamboats,  to  the  city  of  Rochester,  and 
through  the  village  of  Lockport,  and  from  thence  by  rail- 
road to  the  Falls. 

The  travellers  that  are  the  dravuitis  pcrsotuE  of  this 
jamit-,  are  seated  in  the  Lockport  and  Nigagara  Falls  rail- 


102  JAUNT    TO    TIIS    FALLS. 

P'irst  sijrlit. 

road  cars.  They  have  arrived  within  two  miles  of  the 
object  of  their  visit,  and  the  exclamation  is  heard  —  '*  the 
Falls  !  the  Falla  !"  An  imposing  scene  has,  indeed, 
broke  upon  them,  and  a  general  move  takes  place  to 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  mighty  cataract.  Those  seated  at 
the  right  side  of  the  cars  have  a  full  and  direct  view  in 
front,  and  of  the  Niagara  river,  which,  by  their  side, 
flows  far  beneath.  On  the  very  verge  of  its  banks,  at  a 
dizzy  height,  they  are  whirling  at  the  rapid  rate  of  eigh- 
teen miles  an  hour.  On  looking  below,  some  passengers 
hold  their  breath  in  amazement;  others  have  been  known 
to  express  their  astonishment  by  a  low  protracted  whistle, 
until  the  supposed  danger  was  past. 

On  looking  at  the  object  before  her,  one  of  the  ladies 
exclaims  —  **  is  that  the  Falls?"  "  Yes,"  replies  a  pas- 
senger, *'  and  look  below,  there  is  the  far  famed  Niagara 
river." 

Another  observes — "after  so  long  a  period  I  behold 
this  place;"  and  one  —  "what  a  distance  have  we  come 
to  feast  our  eyes  upon  this  scene!" 

"  A  great  mist  arises  from  the  water  —  the  Falls  seem 
concealed  behind  a  cloud.     Is  it  always  so  1" 

"Always,"  answered  a  person  familiar  with  the  scene, 
"  and  in  the  clear  cold  weather  of  winter,  the  mist  which 
arises  in  clouds,  appears  like  the  flame  and  smoke  of  some 
great  conflagration,  or  as  of  a  burning  city.  At  such 
times  the  burning  of  Moscow  is  always  brought  to  my 
remembrance." 

In  a  few  minutes  after  the  Falls  are  first  beheld,  at  the 
mineral  spring,  two  miles  from  the  cataract,  the  cars  have 
rolled  on;  have  passed  through  the  Main  street  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  have  stopped  at  the  upper  end. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS.  103 

General  Remarks  of  Travellers. 

The  cars  of  the  passengers  are  saluted  with — "  passen- 
gers for  the :,"  "travellers  for  the — — ,"  "gentle- 
men, please  to  show  me  your  baggage   for  the ," 

" baggage,"   *'  for  the ,  Madam?"   "  do  you  go 

to  the ,  Sir?"  and  all  the  jargon  and  noise  which  a 

fall  array  of  the  runners  and  waiters  from  the  hotels  can 
utter. 

The  travellers  having  made  up  their  minds  before  their 
arrival,  or  afterwards,  go  to  their  hotel,  enter  their  names, 
secure  their  rooms,  end  breakfast,  dine  or  sup,  as  the  case 
may  be,  and  when  prepared  for  a  visit  to  the  Falls,  send 
for  a  Guide. 

The  aid  of  a  guide  is  indispensable,  to  point  out  the  dif- 
ferent views,  and  to  impart  a  full  knowledge  of  all  the 
localities. 

After  having  concluded  their  arrangements  they  start 
on  their  first  ramble.  Passing  in  a  western  direction  from 
the  hotel,  they  traverse  the  bank  of  the  river,  or  after 
leaving  a  narrow  street,  continue  along  on  the  rising 
ground,  until  they  enter  a  grove  of  trees;  emerging  from 
thence,  they  behold  the  Falls  at  once  before  them,  rolling 
majestically,  and  displaying  all  their  grandeur. 

"How  magnificent!" 

"  Truly,  the  half  has  not  been  told!" 

"  It  is  grand  —  it  is  dreadful!" 

**  They  are  terrible,  yet  beautiful!" 

*'  They  appear  small  at  a  distance,  and,  at  first  sight,  I 
was  disappointed.     They  exceed  my  expectations." 

*'  Never  have  I  beheld,  or  imagined,  any  thing  com- 
parable to  this. 

Such  arc  some  of  the  many  expressions  which  break 
9* 


104  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

Description. 

from  travellers,  and  show  forth  their  emotions;  they  are 
generally  those  of  admiration,  mingled  with  pleaeure; 
but  many  gaze  and  wonder  in  silence. 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

"  Tremendous  torrent  I  for  an  instant  huth 
The  terrors  of  thy  voice,  and  cast  aside 
Those  wild  involving  shadows  ;  that  nn'  ej'cg 
May  sec  the  fearful  beauty  of  thy  face." 

On  the  western  bomidary  of  the  State  of  New- York, 
runs  the  Niagara  river,  in  a  northern  direction,  and  the 
centre  of  which  is  the  boundary  line  between  the  United 
States  and  the  dominions  of  Great  Britain.  The  Niagara 
is  the  outlet  of  the  vast  chain  of  western  lakes,  beginning 
with  lake  Superior  and  its  hundred  tributary  streams,  and 
is  the  principal  inlet  of  lake  Ontario.  Niagara  is  derived 
from  the  Indian,  and  was  called  by  them  Onyakarra, 
according  to  David  Cusich,  of  the  Tuscarora  tribe,  who 
published  a  pamphlet  in  1827. 

The  Falls  are  twenty-two  miles  from  lake  Erie,  and 
fourteen  from  lake  Ontario.  The  two  branches  of  the 
river  which  encompass  Grand  and  other  Islands,  unite  a 
mile  above  the  rapids;  and  it  is  there,  two  miles  in  width. 
As  it  advances  forward,  the  ciurent  accelerates  in  its 
downward  course,  and  the  channel  contracts  in  width. 
From  tranquil  and  glossy,  a  slight  ripple  is  seen  to  move 
the  surface;  it  next  assumes  a  descending  and  cradle-like 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS.  105 

Volume  of  Water. 

movement;  the  waves  enlarge,  the  tops  roll  over  each 
other,  and  are  broken  into  white-caps  and  spray.  The 
whole  body  of  the  mighty  river  becomes  agitated,  as  if 
conscious  of  the  great  plunge  it  is  about  to  make.  The 
placid  stream  has  become  a  rushing  torrent,  broken  into 
cascades  and  sweeping  billows.  Its  own  momentum 
l)re3ses  it  forward  with  irresistible  violence;  from  ridge 
to  ridge  it  bounds,  until  it  reaches  the  perpendicular  rock, 
and  there  it  sweeps  over,  and  falls  belov/.  The  water 
boils  up  from  beneath,  like  a  sea  of  while  foam;  the  spray 
rises  in  clouds  which  hang  dark  and  heavy  above,  or  are 
wafted  away  by  the  current  of  the  wind;  and  rainbows 
encircle  below  and  above  this  most  wonderful  of  nature's 
works. 

Iris  island  is  in  the  midst  of  the  Falls,  and  separates 
the  water  into  two  great  sheets.  A  smaller  sheet  is  struck 
off  by  Prospect  island,  passing  between  that  and  Iris  isl- 
and. The  portion  between  the  islands  and  American 
shore  is  less  than  the  main  channel  which  separates  Can- 
ada from  the  United  States,  and  passes  on  the  western 
side  of  Iris  island.  In  that  chamiel  is  borne  along  a 
volume  of  water  of  immenfee  magnitude,  the  drain  of 
more  thau  150,000  square  miles  of  surface  of  lakes  and 
rivers. 

How  sublime  the  object  that  is  presented  to  the  enrap- 
tured beholder!  Such  a  body  of  congregated  water  poured 
at  once  over  so  high  a  precipice,  and  falling  perpendicu- 
larly into  the  chasm  below,  whose  depth  it  is  not  possible 
for  man  to  fathom. 

The  rushing,  roaring  sound  which  is  emitted  by  the 
falling  water — the  variety  of  colors  presented  to  the  eye; 


106  JAUXT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

Familiarity  wiili  the  noise. 

the  splendor  yet  sublimity  of  the  scene  —  ore  new  to  the 
spectator,  and  create  emotions  hard  to  be  described. 

The  sounds  are  those  of  the  stormy  ocean  and  over- 
whelming tempest;  there  is  one  continued  roar,  yet  other 
sounds  arise  fitful  and  varied. 

Some  persons,  at  times,  have  fancied  noises,  strange 
and  mysterious;  the  intonations  of  the  bass  drum  —  the 
slow,  solemn  and  heavy  report  of  artillery  —  the  swelling 
note  of  the  trumpet  —  and  even  the  human  voice  in 
agony,  has  been  heard  by  inany  imaginative  enthusiasts. 
But  the  similarity  of  the  sounds  to  the  bass  drum,  and  to 
artillery  are  so  near,  at  times,  that  persons  have  been  re- 
peatedly deceived. 

It  requires  a  long  residence  to  become  femiliar  to,  and 
regardless  of  the  noise.  To  some  it  creates  unpleasant 
sensations,  but  generally  they  are  those  of  a  contrary 
character.  To  those  who  are  residents,  the  quietude 
which  seems  to  prevail  when  they  visit  any  of  the  adja- 
cent villages,  makes  it  appear  to  them  like  the  stillness 
of  Sunday. 

Strangers  who  remain  over  night,  though  the  sound  of 
the  Falls  is  in  their  ears  w^hen  they  retire  to  rest,  yet 
when  they  happen  to  awake  from  their  slumbers,  fre- 
quently fancy  themselves  in  the  midst  of  a  tempest;  the 
house  trembles,  the  windows  and  doors  clatter,  the  wind 
rushes  and  whistles  rotmd,  the  rain  pours;  and  amid  all, 
they  hear  the  unceasing  sound  of  the  cataract.  They 
rise  to  look  out  upon  the  raging  storm;  and  when  they 
draw  the  curtain,  or  throw  up  the  windows,  they  per- 
ceive that  the  stars  are  shining  sweetly,  and  not  a  zephyr 
disturbs  the  pendant  leaves. 


JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS.  107 


Dist:iiice  which  the  Falls  are  heard. 


In  heavy  weather  the  sound  is  louder,  and  is  heard 
farther;  and  to  those  who  live  at  a  distance,  though 
within  hearing  of  the  Falls,  they  are  an  unfailing  baro- 
meter. After  a  pleasant  turn  of  weather,  during  which 
the  sound  has  juet  been  perceptible,  often  gradually, 
and  sometimes  euddenh',  the  increased  roar  of  the  cataract 
conies  upon  the  ear.  A  change  of  weather  immediately 
takes  place,  and  is  often  followed  by  a  storm. 

In  some  directions  the  roar  of  the  Falls  is  not  usually 
heard  over  six  or  seven  miles;  along  the  course  of  the 
river  they  are  constantly  perceptible  for  about  fourteen 
miles;  they  have  been  occasionally  heard  at  the  distance 
of  thirty  miles;  and  in  one  instance  an  individual  asserts 
to  have  heard  them  at  the  city  of  Toronto,  in  Canada, 
distant  forty-four  miles. 

The  concussion  of  the  falling  waters  jar  the  adjoining 
shores,  and  the  houses  tremble  in  concert  with  the  mi- 
ceasing  shock. 

This  may  be  questioned  by  those  who  have  only  spent 
an  hour  or  two  at  the  Falls,  in  the  clear,  serene,  and  bland 
weather  of  summer;  but  those  who  have  remained  there 
longer  will  certify  to  the  fact.  If  a  door  is  left  ajar  it 
vibrates,  if  a  window  is  loose  it  clatters;  and  even  sitting 
quietly  at  their  fire-sides,  the  inhabitants  will,  at  times, 
perceive  a  tremulous  motion,  which  they  can  trace  to 
the  Falls.  There  is  much  difference  in  hearing  the  Falls; 
at  a  short  distance  from  them  the  noise  is  not  unpleasant, 
but  close  to  the  sheets  of  water,  to  many  persons  it  is 
almost  overwhelming.  It  is  believed  by  many  abroad, 
that  persons  long  resident  at  the  Falls  become  hard  of 
bearing.     That  this  is  generally  eo,  cannot  be  positively 


108  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

Inquiries  aiiswereii. 

asserted.  A  lady  of  Lewiston,  who  several  years  since 
visited  the  Falls,  asserts,  that  to  her  the  noise  was  so 
intense  as  to  deprive  her  of  hearing  in  one  ear;  and  though 
many  years  have  since  passed,  she  has  not  recovered  from 
the  deafness  with  which  she  was  then  struck.  And  yet 
very  many  visitors  express  themselves  greally  disappoint- 
ed as  to  the  noise  of  the  Falls;  they  expected  to  hear  it 
heavier  and  louder.  Nothing  but  bursting  boilers,  roaring 
cannon,  pealing  thunder,  or  crashing  earthquakes  can 
come  up  to  the  expectations  of  such  persons. 


INQUIRIES    ANSWERED. 

"  Trifles,  on  an  interesting  subject, 
Cease  to  be  trifles." 

As  many  inquiries  are  made  as  to  places,  heights,  dis- 
tances, and  on  a  variety  of  other  subjects,  the  following 
paragraphs  are  intended  as  answers  to  such,  and  afford 
in  the  shortest  practicable  way,  the  information  required. 

The  form  of  the  Falls  is  a  curve.  That  part  between 
Iris  island  and  Canada  is  called  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls. 

The  western  or  Horse  Shoe  Fall  is  about  seven  hun- 
dred yards  in  circumference. 

The  Fall  on  the  northern  eido  of  the  island  is  three 
hundred  and  thirty  yards. 

The  centre  Fall,  between  Iris  and  Prorpect  islands,  is 
about  thirty-three  yards. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS.  109 

Quantity  of  water  passm«f  over  the  Falls. 

The  whole  distance  around  the  curve,  inchiding  Iris 
and  Prospect  islands,  is  computed  at  one  thousand  four 
hundred  yards. 

The  height  of  the  Falls,  on  the  American  side,  is  one- 
hundred  and  sixty-four  feet;  on  the  Canada  side,  one 
hundred  and  tifty-eight  feet. 

From  Chippewa  to  Schlosser  the  river  is  the  widest. 
The  descent  from  those  places  to  the  great  pitch  is  esti- 
mated at  ninety  feet. 

At  the  ferry  below  the  Falls  the  river  is  fifty-six  rods 
wide.  It  has  been  crossed  in  five  minutes;  it  ordinarily 
requires  ten. 

The  cloud  of  spray  which  arises  from  the  Falls,  is 
always  ssen,  except  when  scattered  by  the  wind.  It  is 
sometimes  seen  from  a  great  distance,  even  from  that  of 
one  himdred  miles. 

Computations  have  been  made  of  the  quantity  of  water 
that  passes  over  the  Falls.  One  is  that  5,084,089,280 
barrels  descend  in  (wcn1y-four  hours;  211,836,853,  in 
one  hour;  3,530,614,  in  a  minute;  and  58,843  in  a  sec- 
ond. This  statement  is  undoubtedly  within  bounds;  and 
the  quantity  is  probably  considerably  more. 

The  average  height  of  the  banks  about  the  Falls  is  from 
two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 

You  can  go,  for  a  short  distance  from  Iris  island,  un- 
der the  spray  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls;  some  have  called 
it  going  under  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  but  that  is  saying 
too  much. 

The  principal  spot  visited,  for  going  under  the  sheet  of 
water,  is  at  Table  Rock.  Even  there,  it  is  fashionable  to 
epeak  of  the  distance  advanced,  in  exaggerated  terms. 


110  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

I\  umber  of  Visiters. 

Great  differences  of  opinion  exist  as  to  the  best  view 
of  this  scene  of  many  wonders.  One  says,  *'  the  best 
view  of  the  Falls  is  from  Table  Rock."  Another,  "the 
best  view  to  be  had  is  from  the  centre  of  the  river,  in 
crossing."  A  third,  "  at  Ware's  observatory,  near  the 
ferry.  A  fourth,  "  the  best  view  is  from  the  foot  of  the 
stair-case,  on  the  American  side."  A  fifth,  "  the  grand- 
est views  of  all  are  from  the  point  of  Iris  island  where  it 
overlooks  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  and  from  the  Tower  at 
the  Terrapin  rocks." 

After  all,  it  must  be  conceded  that  the  view  of  the 
Falls  in  Canada,  surpasses  any  on  the  American  side. 
On  this  side  there  are  many  different  views;  your  eye 
passes  over  the  various  prospects,  piece  by  piece;  on  the 
Canada  side  you  have  a  full  front  view.  On  the  Ameri- 
can side,  comparing  large  things  with  small,  you  not  only 
occupy  the  stage  box,  but  go  behind  the  scenes. 

Persons  who  visit  the  Falls,  to  form  a  right  conception 
of  the  wonders  of  this  country  should  pass  over  to  Iris 
island,  should  visit  the  whirlpool,  and  great  rapids  along 
the  river,  and  should  cross  into  Canada. 

From  the  rapidity  of  the  water  below  the  Falls,  it  has 
been  difficult  to  fathom  it,  but  as  nearly  as  has  been  as- 
certained, it  is  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  deep. 

The  ferrymen  convey  baggage  safely  from  one  side  of 
the  river  to  the  other,  for  a  fair  compensation.  The 
descending  and  ascending  the  hills  is  a  laborious  task, 
and  they  earn  their  money. 

The  number  of  visiters  increase  yearly.  In  1838,  from 
the  best  authority,  the  number  exceeded  twenty  thou- 
sand.    The  nmnber  of  vifeiters  in  1839,  exceeded  by  one- 


JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS.  Ill 

Names  and  Initials;. 

third,  that  of  any  other  year.  In  1840,  though  the 
preesure  of  the  times  was  unprecedented,  yet  the  num- 
ber of  visitors  was  about  the  same  as  the  previous  year. 


NAMES    AND    INITIALS    ON    THE    ROCKS    AND 
TREES. 

"  Bu=y  memory  seeks, 
E'en  in  the  woody  glade,  for  some  dear  mark 
Of  those  we  love." 

There  are  observed  many  names  and  initials  chiseled 
upon  the  rocks,  and  cut  upon  the  trees.  Some  high  in 
the  branches,  and  some  projecting  over  the  precipice. 
At  the  first  thought  one  supposes  that  the  short  lived 
immortality  thus  to  be  obtained  is  hardly  worth  the  labor 
and  risk. 

It  is  not  so  much  the  expectation  of  fixing  a  lasting  me- 
morial, as  the  pleasure  of  having  one's  name  recognised 
by  some  friend,  or  acquaintance,  in  present  or  after  years. 
These  mementos  are  like  the  registry  of  a  public  house, 
but  possesses  a  romantic  interest  that  registers  do  not. 
Here  on  the  dark  rocks  and  wild  forest  trees  of  Niagara, 
mingled  with  names  from  every  part  of  the  world,  will 
sometimes  be  found  one  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  observer, 
and  the  object  will  be  hailed  with  pleasure.  It  may  have 
been  indented  years  ago,  and  he  who  made  the  memorial, 
may,  when  the  name  is  recognised,  have  ceased  to  exist 
among  the  living  ;  and  then  may  be  brought  to  mind 
10 


112  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

IMists  and  Optical  Illusions. 

*'  scenes  long  passed,  never  to  return."  More  than  once, 
affecting  recognizances  of  this  kind  have  been  witnessed. 
Had  the  first  European  who  visited  this  spot  left  some 
memorial  of  the  time,  and  his  own  name,  he  would,  by 
that  slight  circumstance,  have  secured  an  immortality  for 
Aimself,  and  much  satisfaction  to  modern  enquirers. — 
This  is  not  a  useless  labor;  it  is  interesting  to  many, 
and  will  often  aflbrd  some  data  and  materials  for  the 
traveller  and  historian. 


MISTS    AROUND    THE    FALLS,    AND    OPTICAL 
ILLUSIONS. 

"  Indistinct 

"  Seen  through  the  turbid  air,  beyond  the  life, 
"  Objects  appear." 

The  Falls,  to  residents,  have  lost  much  of  their  lone- 
liness, the  majesty  and  awfulness  which  they  once  pos- 
sessed. Frequently  beholding  them  has  made  the  scene 
familiar;  not  only  so,  but  there  are  now  so  many  of  the 
works  of  man  about  them,  houses  stair-cases,  bridges, 
roads,  prospect  towers,  and  the  like,  that  the  wild  and 
savage  aspect  which  they  once  wore,  has  disappeared. 

When  the  ferry  was  at  first  established,  at  times  there 
would  not  be  a  passenger  for  several  days;  in  conse- 
quence, it  would  be  often  neglected,  and  travellers  were 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS.  118 

First  discovery. 

frequently  detained,  not  only  hours,  but  days,  in  waiting 
on  the  movements  of  the  irregular  and  tardy  ferrymaix. 
One  who  was  thus  detained,  when  most  anxious,  on  im- 
portant business  to  cross  the  river,  relates — "  I  waited  on 
the  American  bank,  and  watched  the  coming  of  the  fer- 
ryman. Clouds  of  mist  would  move  down  the  river,  ob- 
scuring, except  ut  intervals,  the  shores  from  each  other. 
At  such  times,  the  appearances  were  truly  deceptive.  I 
would  see  persons  coming  to  the  top  of  the  bank;  I  would 
observe  them  passing  down  the  hill,  emerging  at  times 
from  behind  the  rocks  and  bushes;  and  could  almost 
count  their  numbers  as  they  advanced  to  the  landing 
place.  Directly,  a  blast  of  wind  would  come,  driving 
away  the  cloud  of  mist,  and  showing  clearly  that  no 
persons  were  in  sight.  I  would  think  they  had  retired 
behind  the  rocks,  or  were  in  some  hidden  part  of  the  path 
that  ascended  the  bank,  as  it  wound  its  obscure  way  un- 
der shrubs  and  trees.  Again  the  mist  would  roll  over, 
and  again  the  phantoms  would  appear,  and,  like  an  ignvs 
fatuus,  would  lure  me  to  remain  till  darkness  and  night 
cut  off  all  prospect  of  the  ferryman^'s  coming  !  !" 

Who  first  discovered  the  Falls,  does  not  appear  to  be 
known.  They  were  visited  in  1G57,  and  without  doubt 
many  years  before.  This  is  the  earliest  notice  of  them 
yet  brought  to  light.  In  1678,  they  were  visited  and  de- 
scribed by  Father  Hcnnipen.  The  description  is  not 
very  different  from  those  of  the  present  day.  In  calling 
the  Falls  600  feet  high,  it  is  likely  tjie  estimate  was  made 
from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the  supposed  bottom  of  the 
gulf,  or  abyss  into  which  tho  waters  are  precipitated.  It 
is  not  now  certainly  known  but  that  the  estimate  in  that 
point  of  view  is  correct. 


114  JAUNT   TO   THE    FALLS. 

Francis  Abbott. 

After  having  viewed  the  Falls,  from  the  observatory, 
or  brow  of  the  bank,  to  their  satiefaction,  the  travellers 
pass  down  the  river,  entering  the  pleasure  garden.  A 
eummer  house  stands  upon  the  ground  where  once  was 
the  cottage  of  Francis  Abbott.  From  this  place  he  could 
look  out  upon  the  Falls,  and  regale  himself  with  the  sight 
of  the  object  to  which  he  was  spell-bound  and  infatuated. 
This  was  not  a  favored  residence;  but  as  he  could  not  be 
permitted  to  seclude  himself  on  the  island,  to  which  he 
was  so  extremely  partial,  he  sorrowfully  seated  himself 
here.  As  every  visitor  wishes  to  hear  about  this  eccentric 
gentleman,  all  the  information  that  has  been  obtained, 
is   given  in  the  following  account. 


FRANCIS    ABBOTT. 

"From  my  youth  upwards, 
My  spirit  wallied  not  witli  the  souls  of  men, 
Nor  looked  upon  tlie  ea.rth  with  human  eyes  5 
The  thirst  of  tlieir  amlntion  was  not  mine,— 
The  jiini  of  their  existence  was  not  mine  ; 
I  had  no  sympathy  with  breathing  flesh. 
My  joy  was  in  the  wilderness,  to  breathe 
The  difficult  air  of  the  iced  mounuiin's  top, 
AVhere  the  birds  dare  not  buUd,  nor  insects  wing 
Flit  o'er  the  herbless  granite ;  or  to  plunge 
Into  the  rolling  torrent,  and  to  roll  alon?." 

In   the  afternoon  of  the    18th  of  June,  1829,  a  tall, 
well   built,   and  handsome  maji,  dressed  in  a  long  loose 


JAUNT   TO    THE    PAL  LB.  115 

Francis  Alibott. 

gown,  or  cloak,  of  a  chocolate  color,  was  eeen  passing 
through  the  principal  street  of  the  villnge  of  Niagara 
Falls.  He  had  under  his  arm  a  roll  of  blankets,  a  flute, 
a  port  folio,  and  a  large  book;  in  his  right  hand  he  carried 
a  small  stick.  He  advanced  towards  the  Eagle  Hotel, 
attracting  the  gaze  of  visitors  and  others  by  the  singular- 
ity of  his  appearance.  With  elastic  step  and  animated 
motion,  he  passed  the  hotel;  he  heeded  not  the  inquiring 
gaze  of  the  idle  multitude,  but  firm  and  erect  he  bent  hia 
course  to  a  more  lowly,  but  respectable  inn.  He  at  once 
entered  into  stipulations  with  the  landlord,  that  the  room 
he  occupied  should  be  solely  his  own;  that  he  should 
have  his  table  to  himself;  and  that  only  certain  portions 
of  his  fare  should  be  furnished  by  the  landlady.  He  made 
the  usual  inquiries  about  the  Falls,  and  among  other 
things,  wished  to  know  if  there  was  a  reading-room  or 
library  in  the  village.  Being  informed  that  there  was  a 
library,  he  immcdiattly  repaired  to  the  individual  who 
kept  it;  deposited  three  dollars,  and  took  a  book;  purcha- 
sed a  violin;  borrowed  music  books;  infonned  the  librarian 
that  his  name  was  Francis  Abbott;  that  he  should  remain 
a  few  days  at  the  Full?,  and  conversed  on  many  subjects 
with  great  ease  and  ability. 

The  next  day,  he  returned  to  the  same  person;  expa- 
tiated largely  upon  the  surrounding  scenery,  the  cascades 
and  cataracts,  and  of  that  sublime  spectacle,  the  Falls. 
In  all  his  travels,  he  said,  he  had  never  met  with  any 
thing  to  compare  with  this  combination  of  all  that  was 
great  and  beautiful.  There  was  nothing  so  grand  as 
Niagara  Falls,  except  Mount  iEtna,  during  an  eruption. 
He  inquired  how  long  travellers  usually  remained,  and 
10* 


116  JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS. 

His  opinion  of  the  Falls. 

being  informed  that  many  stayed  only  one  day,  he  obser- 
ved that  he  should  remain  at  least  a  week;  and  further 
remarked,  "Can  it  be,  that  there  are  those  who  come  to 
this  place,  and  leave  it  in  one  day!  I  am  astonished  that 
persons  can  be  found  so  little  interested  in  these  oston- 
isliing  works  of  nature,  as  to  spend  so  short  a  period  of 
lime  in  passing  around  and  beholding  them.  As  well 
might  a  traveller,  in  one  or  two  days,  attempt  to  examine 
in  detail  the  various  museums  and  curiosities  of  Paris,  as 
to  think  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  magnificent 
scenery  of  Niagara,  in  such  a  short  space  of  time." 

In  a  few  days  he  called  again,  and  again  expatiated  up- 
on the  resplendent  scenery  of  the  Falls,  and  said  he  had 
concluded  to  remain  a  month,  and  perhaps  six  months. 
In  a  short  time  after,  he  deteimined  to  fix  his  abode  on 
Iris  island,  and  was  desirous  of  erecting  a  rustic  hut,  for 
the  purpose  of  abstracting  himself  from  all  society,  and 
of  becoming  a  solitary  hermit.  The  proprietor  of  the 
island  having  become  acquainted  with  his  eccentricities, 
was  apprehensive  that  his  permanent  residence  there, 
might  be  alarming  to  strangers,  who  did  not  know  him. 
For  this  reason,  he  thought  it  not  proper  to  allow  him  to 
erect  a  building  for  such  a  purpose,  but  permitted  him  to 
occupy  a  room  in  the  only  house  then  on  the  island.  In 
this  house  there  lived  a  family  that  furnished  him  at  times 
with  milk  and  bread.  But  he  often  dispensed  with  these 
necessary  articles,  providing  himself  in  such  other  way 
as  suited  his  fancy,  and  preparing  his  food  to  suit  his  own 
taste.  He  observed  once  to  a  friend,  "that  people,  in 
their  mode  of  living,  took  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  un- 
necessary pains;  for  my  part,  I   have  adopted  a  method 


JAUNT    TO    THE    PALLS.  117 

His  residrnce  —  moilc  of  li\  in?. 

which  I  find  very  pleasant  and  ngreeable.  I  take  about  a 
pint  of  water,  in  which  I  mix  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
wheat  flour,  to  give  it  a  proper  consistence,  and  then 
drink  it  down.  I  find  that  it  answers  every  purpose,  and 
eaves  me  much  labor  and  inconvenience." 

With  his  guitar  by  his  side,  supported  from  his  shoulder 
with  a  silken  saeh,  like  an  Eastern  Minstrel,  he  would 
perambulate  the  banks  of  the  river  to  the  Whirlpool;  and 
once  or  twice  extended  his  walk  to  Lewiston.  The  in- 
mates of  the  houses  on  the  way  would  suddenly  hear 
the  sounds  of  strange  and  unknown  music,  the  musician 
would  be  observed  etanding  at  a  distance  in  the  road,  but 
as  soon  08  noticed,  or  spoken  to,  would  glide  away, 
without  giving  any  reply. 

The  island  was  his  permanent  residence  for  about  20 
months.  At  length,  the  family  removed;  and  to  those 
few  persons  with  whom  he  held  converse,  he  expressed 
bis  great  satisfaction  of  having  it  in  his  power  to  live  en- 
tirely alone.  For  some  months,  he  seemed  to  enjoy  him- 
self very  much,  and  until  another  family  entered  the 
house.  He  then  concluded  to  erect  a  cottage  of  his  own; 
and  as  he  could  not  build  on  the  island,  he  made  choice  of 
the  high  bank  of  the  river,  near  to  and  in  full  view  of  the 
Falls;  which,  of  all  other  objects,  it  was  his  delight  to 
behold.  He  occupied  his  new  residence  about  two  months. 

On  Friday,  the  10th  of  June,  1831,  he  went  twice 
below  the  bank  of  the  river,  to  bathe,  and  was  seen  to 
go  a  third  time.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the 
ferryman  baw  him  in  the  water  —  he  was  partly  floating 
and  partly  resting  his  body  on  the  shelving  rocks.  As 
the  boat  approached,  to  screen  himself  from  the  gaze  of 


118  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


Manner  of  his  death. 


the  passengers,  he  drew  his  head  under  the  water.  It  was 
not  seriously  thought  of,  as  he  had  often  been  noticed  in 
the  same  situation,  and  acting  in  the  same  manner. 
When  the  ferryman  returned,  his  clothes  were  seen  on 
the  rocks,  where  he  usually  deposited  them,  but  he  was 
not  there.  An  examination  was  immediately  made,  but 
his  body  could  not  be  found  It  was  supposed  to  have 
been  carried  away  by  the  current. 

"  The  greedy  sursre  had  swept  hijn  down,  fir,  far 
From  mortal  ken." 

On  the  21st,  the  body  was  taken  up  at  Fort  Niagara, 
was  clearly  identified,  and  was  on  the  next  day  removed 
and  decemly  interred  in  the  burial  ground  at  Niagara 
Falls. 

Thus  terminated  the  career  of  the  unfortunate  Francie 
Abbott  —  little,  indeed,  known  to  those  near  whom  he 
spent  the  two  last  years  of  his  hfe.  Some  few  gleanings 
more  can  only  be  given.  He  was  an  English  gentleman, 
of  a  respectable  family;  he  was  endowed  with  a  good 
iiiind,  highly  cultivated;  and  was  eminently  pleaeing  in 
iiis  niflimers.  He  was  not  only  master  of  several  langua- 
ges, but  deeply  read  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  pos- 
sessed all  the  minor  accomplithments  of  the  finished  gen- 
tleman, fasciiiating  colloquial  powers,  and  music  and 
i^fawing  ip  gre^t  perfection.  Many  years  of  his  life  hod 
beqn  spent  in  travelling.  He  had  visited  Egypt  and  Pa- 
lestiuc;  had  travelled  through  Turkey  and  Greece,  Italy, 
Spain,  Portugal,  oad  France;  and  had  resided  for  con- 
siderable periods  of  ime  in   R:>me,    Naples,  and  Paris. 


JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS.  119 

His  cbaracier. 

"While  at  the  Falls,  business  brought  him  in  contact  with 
several  of  the  inhabitants,  with  a  few  of  them  he  would 
eometimes  be  sociable;  to  all  others  he  was  distant  and 
re8cr\-ed.  His  conversations  were  always  interesting,  and 
his  descriptions  of  countries  and  people  highly  glowing 
and  animated.  But  at  times,  even  with  his  favored  ac- 
quaintance, he  would  hold  no  converse;  but  communica- 
ted to  them  his  wishes,  on  a  slate,  and  would  request  that 
nothing  might  be  said  to  him.  He  would  frequently,  for 
three  or  four  months,  go  unshaved;  often  with  no  covering 
on  his  head,  and  his  body  enveloped  in  a  blanket;  shun- 
ning all,  and  seeking  the  deepest  solitude  of  the  island. 
He  composed  much,  and  generally  in  Latin;  but  he  de- 
stroyed his  compositions  almost  as  fast  as  he  produced 
them.  When  his  little  cot  was  examined;  hopes  were 
entertained  that  some  manuscript  or  memorial  might  be 
found,  of  his  own  composition;  but  he  left  nothing  of  the 
kind.  His  faithful  dog  guarded  his  door,  and  it  was 
with  difficulty  it  was  persuaded  aside  while  it  was  opened. 
His  cat  occupied  his  bed;  and  his  guitar,  violin,  flutes, 
and  music  book?,  were  scattered  around  in  confusion. 
There  was  a  portfolio,  and  the  leaves  of  a  large  book; 
but  not  a  word,  not  even  his  name,  was  written  in  any 
of  them. 

Many  spots  on  Iris  island  are  consecrated  to  the  me- 
mory of  Francis  Abbott.  On  the  upper  end  of  the  itland 
he  had  established  his  walk,  and  in  one  place  it  had  be- 
come trodden  and  well  beaten,  Hke  that  on  which  a  sen- 
tinel performs  his  tour  of  duty.  Between  Iris  and  Moss 
island,  there  is  embowered  in  seclusion  and  shade,  one 
of  the  most  charming  waterfclls,  or  cascades,  imaginable. 


120  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


His  walks  —  his  temerity. 


This  was  hie  favorite  retreat  for  bathing.  There  he  re- 
sorted  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  In  the  coldest  weather, 
even  when  snow  was  on  the  ground,  and  ice  in  the  water, 
he  continued  to  bathe  in  the  Niagara. 

On  the  lower  extremity  of  the  island,  there  was  a 
bridge  leading  over  what  are  called  the  Terrapin  Rocks; 
from  this  bridge  there  extended  a  single  piece  of  timber, 
some  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  over  the  precipice.  On  this 
bridge  it  was  his  daily  practice  to  walk;  with  a  quick 
step  he  would  pass  the  bridge,  advance  on  the  timber  to 
the  extreme  point,  turn  quickly  on  his  heel  and  walk 
back;  and  continue  thus  to  walk  for  hours  together^  — 
Sometimes  he  would  let  himself  down  at  the  end  of  the 
timber,  and  hang  under  it  by  his  hands  and  feet  for  fifteen 
and  twenty  minutes  at  a  time,  and  this  over  a  chasm  so 
terrific,  as  to  make  dizzy  the  strongest  head.  On  being 
remonstrated  with,  for  thus  exposing  himself,  he  would 
reply,  that,  in  crossing  the  ocean,  he  had  frequently  seen 
the  sea-boy  in  much  greater  peril;  and,  as  he  should  pro- 
bably again  pass  the  sea,  he  wished  to  inure  himself  to 
such  dangers:  if  the  nerves  of  others  were  disturbed,  his 
were  not.  In  the  darkest  hours  of  the  night,  he  was 
often  found  walking  alone,  in  the  wildest  and  most  dan- 
gerous places  near  the  Falls;  and  at  such  times  he  would 
ehun  the  approach  of  men,  as  if  they  were  unwelcome  in- 
truders on  his  solicitude. 

He  had  a  stipend  allowed  to  him  by  his  friends  in  Eng- 
land, competent  for  hie  support.  He  attended  to  the 
state  of  bis  accounts,  very  carefully;  was  economical  in 
his  expenditure  of  money  for  his  own  use;  but  generous 
in  paying  for  all  favors  and  services,  and  never  receiving 


JAUXT   TO    THE    FALLS.  121 

His  opinion  of  lUe  \le\vs. 

any  thing  without  making  immediate  payment.  He  had 
a  deep  and  abiding  sense  of  reh'gious  duties  and  decorum; 
and  was  mild  in  hia  behavior,  and  inoffeneive  in  his  con- 
duct. Religion  was  a  subject  he  appreciated,  and  seemed 
well  to  understand.  The  charity  he  asked  from  others, 
he  extended  to  all  mankind. 

What,  it  will  be  inquired,  could  have  broken  up  and 
destroyed  such  a  mind  as  his?  What  drive  him  from 
society,  which  he  was  so  well  calculated  to  adorn, —  and 
what  transform  him,  noble  in  person  and  intellect,  into 
an  ipolated  anchorite,  shunning  the  association  of  his 
fellow  men  ?  The  mystery  he  never  unfolded,  and  his 
friends  have  remained  silent  on  the  subject.  He  was 
about  twenty-eight  years  of  age,  at  the  time  of  his 
death. 

With  the  scenery  of  the  Falls,  he  wag  perfectly  infat- 
uated, and  expressed  himself  in  the  most  rapturous  terms, 
when  he  epoke  of  the  beautiful  retreats  of  Iris  island. 
He  was  asked  why  he  did  not  take  up  his  residence  in 
Canndn,  under  his  own  government  —  among  his  own 
people;  and,  as  he  preferred  being  near  the  Falls,  he 
could  there  select  a  place  to  suit  him,  as  the  views  on 
that  side  were  considered  by  many,  the  best.  His  reply 
was,  that  he  preferred  this  side,  because,  in  all  that  was 
interesting  and  beautiful,  the  American  scenes  around 
the  Falls  were  decidedly  superior. 


122  JAUNT   TO    THE    FALLS. 

Alexander's  Leap. 


ALEXANDERS    LEAP. 

"  My  thoughts  came  back.    Where  was  I  7    Cold, 
And  numb,  and  giddy;  pulse  by  pulse 
Life  re-assumed  its  lingering  hold  ; 
And  throb  by  tlirob,  till  grown  a  pang, 
AVhich  for  a  moment  would  convulse. 
My  blood  re-flow'd,  though  thick  and  chill ; 
My  ear  with  uncouih  noises  rang ; 
My  heart  began  once  more  to  thrill  -, 
My  sight  returned,  though  dim,  alas ! 
And  thicken'd  as  it  were  with  glass  — 
Methought  the  dash  of  waves  was  nigh ; 
There  was  a  gleam,  too,  of  the  sky. 
Studded  with  stars  : it  is  no  dream." 

At  a  spot,  about  thirty  rods  from  the  Falls,  a  thrilling 
incident  occurred  in  1836. 

A  number  of  men,  employed  upon  the  Lockport  and 
Niagara  Falls  railroad,  were  one  night  carousing  at  a 
small  tavern  in  the  village.  A  dispute,  upon  some  reli- 
gious subjeet,  arose  between  a  party  of  Irishmen  and  a 
few  Scotchmen,  who  happened  to  be  present.  The 
Scotchmen  soon  found  it  necessary  to  retreat  to  another 
room ;  but  the  Irish  blood,  excited  with  whiskey,  was 
up,  and  they  rushed  in  upon  them,  swearing  death  and 
destruction  upon  "Luther's  breed."  It  had  become  one 
of  those  fierce  and  fatal  rows,  where  reason  is  lost  in 
passion  and  intoxication,  and  in  the  whirlwind  of  ex- 
citement, blows  are  dealt,  and  life  is  taken;  and  from 
which,  happy  is  he  who  can  safely  retreat.     The  Scotch- 


JAUXT    TO    THE    FALLS  123 

His  fall  from  the  bank. 

men  rushed  through  the  back  door  and  over  the  fences, 
hiding  themselves  behind  trees  and  stumps.  They  all 
succeeded  in  eluding  their  infuriated  pursuers.  One  of 
them,  however,  by  the  name  of  Alexander,  though  he 
escaped  their  hands,  yet  met  with  an  accident  still  more 
dreadful.  When  he  got  out  of  the  yard  of  the  tavern,  he 
found  himself  pursued  by  several  persons.  He  was  not 
acquainted  with  the  place;  it  was  about  9  o'clock,  and 
quite  dark;  he  could  see  the  woods,  as  he  thought,  at  a 
distance.  lie  ran  towards  them:  he  was  deceived  by  the 
brush  wood  and  scattering  trees  growing  along  the  upper 
bank  of  the  river.  As  he  entered  the  wood,  he  remem- 
bered slipping:  the  slope  is  about  20  feet,  and  the  perpen- 
dicular height  70  feet :  he  recollected  no  more.  The 
next  morning,  at  the  bcginnmg  of  day,  he  found  him- 
self wounded  and  bleeding  on  the  rocks.  The  shelving 
bank  and  river  on  one  side,  and  an  insurmountable  bar- 
rier of  rock  on  the  other.  He  had  never  been  to  the 
Falls,  and  did  not  know  that  there  were  stairs  to  ascend 
the  bank;  but  the  ebantee,  at  which  the  workmen  lived, 
he  knew  was  down  the  river.  In  hopes  of  finding  some 
place  to  ascend,  crushed  and  bleeding  as  he  was,  he 
made  out  to  gather  himself  up,  and  made  his  way  over 
the  rocks,  and  through  the  brakes  and  bushes.  In  this 
mutilated  state,  he  crawled  along  for  nearly  two  miles. 

The  next  day,  towards  noon,  his  companions  began  to 
think  of  him;  and,  as  there  was  snow  on  the  ground,  his 
steps  were  without  difficulty  traced  to  where  he  had  gone 
over  the  bank.  A  party  was  despatched  below.  Marks 
of  blood,  and  the  manner  in  which  he  had  drawn  himself 
ailong,  soon  led  them  to  him.  They  found  him  on  his 
11 


124  JAU-VT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

Fish,  and  Aiigiin^. 

feet,  he  bad  a  stick  in  his  hands,  over  which  his  fingers 
were  clenched  through  each  other,  and  frozen  solid.  He 
was  going  round  and  rouud,  and  was  thsn  in  a  bewildered 
state;  and  if  timely  relief  bad^not  arrived,  be  would  soon 
have  perished.  He  was  wrapped  in  blankets,  and  con- 
veyed to  the  place  where  be  lived.  His  body  was  se- 
verely injured,  and  his  hands  and  feet  were  badly  frost- 
bitten; but,  with  good  medical  attendance,  and  careful 
nursing,  he  recovered  in  about  three  months,  with  the 
loss  of  some  fingers  and  toes.  Yet,  he  is  an  enfeebled 
man,  and  it  is  not  likely  that  his  former  strength  will 
ever  be  restored. 


FISH,    AND    ANGLING. 

"  The  silver  eel,  in  shining  volumes  roH'fl ; 
The  yellow  carp,  in  scales  bedeck'd  with  gold  •, 
Swift  trouts,  diversified  with  crimson  stains  ; 
And  pikes,  the  tyrants  of  tlie  wat'ry  plains." 

There  are  several  places  where  fish  are  taken  with  hook 
and  line,  and  pleasant  sport  is  aflforded  to  those  fond  of 
angling.  The  best  places  are  between  the  two  sheets  of 
water,  on  Iris  island;  in  the  eddy  at  the  ferry,  in  Canada; 
and  at  the  Whirlpool  and  Devil  s  Hole.  There  are  also, 
several  other  places  resorted  to.  The  river  abounds  with 
a  variety  of  fish:  white  fish,  salmon  trout,  pike,  pickerel, 


JAUNT    TO   THE    FALLS.  125 

Eel3. 

jierch,  sturgeon,  cal-fith,  white  and  black  bass,  the  mus- 
(  alunge,  eels,  herring,  and  many  other  kinds. 

On  the  subject  o{  fish  attempting  to  ascend  the  sheet 
of  water,  one  of  the  party,  a  traveller,  remarks  —  **  In 
ihle,  I  am  reminded  how  I  wm  amused,  many  years  ago. 
When  I  was  a  yooth,  I  M^as  at  the  Falls,  on  some  busi- 
ness; and,  while  dinner  was  preparing,  the  schoolmaster 
of  the  village  came  in.  We  commenced  talking  about  the 
Falls.  He  communicated  to  me  his  Mhole  stock  vi'  infor- 
mation: and,  with  other  things,  gravely  informed  me  that 
he  had  sat  for  hours  together,  in  observing  the  exertions 
offish  to  ascend  the  sheet  of  water.  They  would  rise  for 
about  eight  feet,  and  then  fall  back,  and  attempt  it  again. 
Some  would  spring  from  the  water;  others  would  ascend 
the  sheet  by  ninscr.lr.r  strength." 

The  story  mupt  be  put  down  as  fabulous.  Yet,  ells 
do  actually  ascend  from  thirty  to  forty  feet,  on  the  rocks, 
among  the  moss  and  grass,  where  the  mist  from  the 
Falls  constantly  descends  ;  and  they  have  been  there 
j)ickcd  up,  in  considerable  quantities  :  but  there  is  no 
possibility  of  their  reaching  the  river  above. 

Eels  were  not  formerly  taken  on  the  upper  lake;  but 
they  have  been  often  caught  in  the  river  below,  and  carri- 
ed and  put  alive  in  the  stream  above.  It  was  supposed 
that  they  again  returned,  by  passing  over  the  Falls;  but, 
for  a  year  or  two  past,  a  few  messes  of  fine  eels  have  been 
caught  in  the  river  above,  and  curried  to  the  Buflyo 
market. 


126         JAUNT  TO  THE  FALLS. 


Hunting  grounds,  and  Game. 


HUNTING  GROUNDS,  AND  GAME. 

The  whole  extent  of  country  lying  east  of  the  Falls, 
on  the  American  side,  is  well  filled  with  game.  This 
tract  is  yet  new,  a  large  portion  of  it  being  in  a  state  of 
nature,  and  deer  and  bears  have  not  entirely  disappeared; 
though  the  latter  is  quite  a  stranger.  Sometimes  wolves 
are  numerous  and  troublesome;  but  among  a  people  with 
whom  the  rifle  is  as  familiar  as  the  scythe  and  reaping 
hook,  their  career  is  but  short.  Foxes,  wild  cats,  racoons, 
squirrels,  and  other  wild  game,  are  plenty.  Similar 
descriptions  of  game  are  yet  found  on  the  islands. 

For  the  sportsman,  there  are  ducks,  sometimes  wild 
geese,  pheasanis,  quails,  pigeons  and  woodcocks.  The 
woods  of  Canada  also  abound  with  some  kind  of  game. 

Large  stories  have  been  related,  by  travellers,  of  water 
fowl  alighting  in  the  current,  above  the  Falls,  and,  before 
they  could  rise,  of  being  drawn  over. 

One  authentic  instance  can  only  be  mentioned.  As  a 
gentleman  was  standing  near  the  Falls,  he  saw  a  duck  in 
the  water  above.  It  was  playing  and  gamboling  in  the 
rapid  stream,  just  where  the  water  begins  to  curve  over 
Ihe  rock.  It  plunged  in,  and  rose  again,  several  times. 
At  length,  it  dived  too  near  the  suction  of  the  current, 
and  it  was  seen  no  more. 

After  very  heavy  and  dark  nights,  much  game  in  the 
morning  is  frequently  picked  up,  in  the  river  below,  such 
as  wild  geejBC,  ducks,  and  swans,  a  bird  not  common  to 
the  country.    They  fall  in  the  current,  in  the  darkness  of 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS.  127 

Road  down  the  lirink. 

the  night,  or  daeh  themselves,  in  their  passage,  against 
the  rocks  or  sheet  of  water.  They  are  found  dead,  or 
dii?ablcd,  wilh  broken  legs  or  wingcJ. 

An  old  English  magazine,  called  the  "  Magazine  of 
Magazines,"  pretends  to  give  *'a  true  account  of  Niacara 
Falls,  in  America."  Among  other  things,  it  states  that 
the  Indians,  in  their  canoes,  sometimes  passed  the  Falls 
in  safety.  That  the  quantity  of  game  drawn  in,  and  car- 
ried over  the  Falls  was  so  great,  that  on  a  time,  the  French 
garrison,  at  Fort  Niagara,  consisting  of  JOOO  men,  becom- 
ing destitute  of  provisions,  were  subsisted  for  three  months 
on  the  game  picked  up  below  the  Falls.  Surely,  travel- 
lers, in  tho8e  dayp,  understood  how  to  exaggerate  full  as 
well  as  those  of  modern  times. 


ROAD    DOWX    THE    BANK. 

Between  eighty  and  one  hundred  rods  fiom  the  Falls, 
the  party  arrive  at  a  large  excavation  in  the  bank.  Great 
quantities  of  earth  have  been  washed  away  by  the  action 
of  water  conducted  in  a  race  from  the  rapids  for  that  pur- 
pose; and  masses  of  the  rock  have  been  blasted  loose,  and 
thrown  down.  It  is  the  commencement  of  a  carriage- 
road  to  the  ferry.  The  road  down  the  bank,  in  Canada, 
was  completed  fourteen  or  fifteen  years  ago,  and  this  was 
begun  soon  after.  Very  little  progress  was  made,  and  it 
was  soon  discontinued.  In  1836,  was  re-commenced,  un- 
11* 


128  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

Ship  Canal  around  the  Falls. 

der  the  auspices  of  Benjamin  Rathbun;  and  if  his  opera- 
tions had  not  been  brought  to  a  cloce,  it  would  soon  have 
been  completed. 

It  IS  to  be  regretted  that  a  work  eo  much  required  by 
the  citizens  of  the  country,  and  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  travelling  public,  should  be  permitted  to  linger  along 
from  year  to  year.  At  an  early  day  the  erection  of  a 
flight  of  stairs  to  descend  the  buak  to  the  ferry  was  suffi- 
cient; but  now  when  the  ferry  produces  a  large  income, 
and  thousands  are  annually  crossing  the  river,  both  on 
business  and  for  amusement,  no  description  of  stairs  can 
give  to  the  public  that  safe  and  convenient  communication 
which  ought  to  be  afforded,  where  there  is  so  much  pas- 
sing and  re-paseing.  It  is  wrong  that  travellers  should 
be  still  obliged  to  descend  long  and  tedious  stair  cases. 
In  the  road  down  the  bank,  and  in  the  Welland  canal, 
the  Canadians  have  gone  ahead  of  American  enterprise. 
The  very  enterprising  gentleman  who  claims  the  exclu- 
sive right  of  making  this  road,  has  listened  to  public  opin- 
ion, and  he  has  promised  that  the  work  shall  be  immedi- 
ately commenced  upon,  and  continued  untd  it  ia  comple- 
ted. 

But  as  to  the  great  ship  canal  to  connect  the  two  lakes! 
Forty  American  vessels  have  been  counted  at  one  time 
lying  in  Port  Dalhousie,  in  Canada,  waiting  to  pass  thro' 
the  Canadian  canal.  Will  not  the  western  states  rouse  to 
action  on  this  all-important  subject  ?  Will  they  allow  this 
great  connecting  link  between  these  mighty  waters  to  re- 
main broken?  Or  shall  the  vessels  of  this  proud  Republic 
much  longer  continue  subject  to  the  onerous  regulations 
and  exactions  of  a  distant  dependency  of  Great  Britain  ? 


JAUNT    TO    THE    PALLS.  129 

Indian  Ladder. 

When  the  road  down  the  bank  was  first  commenced, 
an  Irish  laborer  was  employed  on  a  projecting  rock,  of 
several  tons  weight.  Very  unexpectedly,  the  rock  gave 
way,  and  both  went  down  together.  Fortunately,  the 
rock  passed  down  first,  struck  a  heap  of  earth  below,  and 
rolled  out  of  the  way.  The  man  fell  on  the  same  heap  of 
earth,  and  was  to  little  injured  that  in  a  few  days  he  was 
able  to  resume  his  work. 


THE    INDIAN    LADDER. 


A  few  rods  further,  and  the  guide  points  out  a  notch 
in  the  bank.  Here  is  the  oldest  place  for  descending  to 
the  Falls:  it  ife  called  the  Indian  Ladder.  The  ladder 
consisted  of  a  cedar  tree,  lying  sloping  against  the  rocks. 
The  natural  branches,  and  notches  cut  in  the  body  of  the 
tree,  were  the  only  slight  helps  aflTorded  to  those  who 
went  down.  The  last  person  known  to  have  descended, 
was  a  hunter,  by  the  name  of  Brooks.  He  was  in  pur- 
suit of  some  game,  which  he  had  shot,  and  had  fallen 
below.  He  got  about  half  way  down,  when  he  slipped, 
and  fell  between  twenty  and  thirty  feet,  and  was  badly 
injured. 


130  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


Point  View, 


POINT    VIEW. 


"  I  am  on  the  brink 


Of  the  great  waters  ;  and  their  authentic  voice 
Goes  up  amid  the  rainbow  and  tlie  mist, 
Their  chorus  shakes  the  ground." 


Point  View,  on  the  American  side,  not  a  new  position, 
as  the  clear  surface  of  the  bank  and  well  trod  foot  path 
will  show,  but  one  hardly  mentioned  by  any  who  have 
written  on  this  subject,  was  the  spot  from  which  Vander- 
lyn  sketched  one  of  his  great  paintings  of  the  Falls. 

On  the  projecting  rock  at  Point  View,  the  spectator 
stands  and  beholds  the  unrivalled  prospect  which  is  spread 
before  him.  Two  hundred  feet  below  the  rock  from 
which  he  looks,  lies  the  calm  dark  waters  of  the  river, 
bounded  on  either  side  with  rock  and  precipice;  the  ad- 
joining shores  crowned  with  native  forest  trees,  and  in  the 
distance  green  meadows,  blooming  orchards,  and  rising 
villages.  He  looks  at  the  great  object  of  his  gaze,  with 
sensations  of  reverence;  the  white  sheets  hanging  in  mid 
air;  the  waters  foaming,  and  hurrying  from  beneath  those 
that  impend  above;  the  spray  rushing  up  from  the  deep 
cavern,  and  rising  in  clouds,  which  hang  as  a  pillar  of 
smoke  over  this  sublime  sanctuary  of  nature's  mysteries. 
The  rocky  base  of  Iris  island,  dividing  the  Falls,  with  its 
tall  trees  tow^ering  above  the  water;  the  Terrapin  rocks 
on   the  American  side,    and  Table  Rock,   in  Canada:— 


JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS.  131 

The  Fulls  spoken  of  by  oiliers. 

altogether  the  scene  is,  beyond  conception,  unique  and 
impoeing. 

It  is  thought,  by  some,  thnt  the  tcnne  in  which  the 
FalU  nre  spoken  of  and  usually  described,  are  too  high 
and  exaggerated.  It"  the  English  and  Scotch  poets  are 
any  criterion  for  descriptive  expressions,  (and  that  they 
are  the  true  standard,  all  will  allow,)  so  far  then  from 
being  exaggerated,  the  terms  applied  to  the  Fails  are  but 
tame  and  feeble.  Several  of  the  authors  allud'.'d  to,  have 
afiorded  poetical  descriptions  of  jvaterfalls  in  the  United 
Kingdunif  in  which  all  the  epithets  of  beauty  and  gran- 
deur have  been  exhausted  in  the  labored  delineation  — 
descriptions  so  lofty  as  to  leave  nothing  to  add,  even  when 
applied  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara.  Look  at  the  objects  as 
nature  presents  thera:  a  brook  or  mill-race,  to  a  mighty 
river  —  a  pond,  to  an  ocean.  Indeed  there  is  no  term  of 
our  language  too  high,  or  idea  of  our  inuigination  ade- 
(jualely  comprehensive  to  describe  this  profound  and  im- 
pressive scene.  The  mind,  awe-struck,  is  overwhelmed 
nnd  lobt  amid  the  elemental  strife.  And  it  is  not  only 
so  as  regards  the  Fnll^,  but  the  whole  of  that  portion  of 
the  Niagara  rivt'r,  from  the  commencement  of  the  rapids 
below  Navy  laland,  to  the  eddying  and  heavy  current  at 
Lewjslon,  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  most  wonderful 
of  the  works  of  nature,  and  allbrds  scenes,  with  but  few 
exceptions,  more  sublime  and  terrible  than  is  exhibited  in 
any  other  laml. 

The  travellers  having  now  completed  their  tour  to  all 
the  most  interesting  points  along  the  bank,  conclude  to 
retiirn  to  the  hotel. 


182  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 

Village  of  Niagara  Falls, 


VILLAGE    OB^    NIAGARA    FALLS. 

"  Lead  on  —  to  yonder  v:il:jge  lead, 
Where  heaven  has  liappiucss  decreed 

For  those  the  blessings  prize  ; 
Who  seek,  in  solitarj'  ease, 
Such  joys  as  innocently  please, 

Nor  wish  for  other  joys." 

In  1805,  Augustus  Porter,  Peter  B.  Porter,  Benjamin 
Barton,  and  Joseph  Annin,  Esqrs.  became,  by  purchase 
of  the  Stnte  of  New- York,  the  proprietors  of  a  considera- 
ble tract  of  land,  lying  immediately  adjacent  to  the  Falls 
of  Niagara.  They  laid  out  a  village,  which  was  called 
Grand  Niagara,  but  was  soon  changed  to  Manchester^ 
This  name  it  retained  for  several  years;  but,  as  much  in- 
convenience arose,  from  there  being  several  others  places 
in  the  State  of  the  same  name,  it  was  altered  to  Niagara 
Falls,  which  is  the  name  of  the  post  office.  In  1813,  the 
village  was  burnt  by  the  enemy.  After  the  war,  the  citi- 
zens returned,  and  it  has  very  gradually  increased,  since 
then,  in  buildings  and  inhabitants.  In  1836,  the  survey 
of  the  village  was  greatly  extended;  the  lands  became  in 
great  demand,  and  large  sales  could  have  been  made  at 
enormous  prices;  and  some  lots  were  sold. 

The  water  power,  at  this  place,  is  unlimited;  and  at 
some  distant  day  must  come  largely  in  use,  for  manufac- 
turing puriDOses.  There  is  now  one  large  grist  mill,  two 
saw  mills,  a  woollen  manufactory,  a  trip  hammer  shop, 
furnace,    and   two  machine  shops.      There    is  also,  two 


JAUNT   TO    THE    PALLS.  133 


Village  of  Niagara  Falls. 


blacksmiths'  shops,  two  cabinet  makers'  shop,  one  shop 
for  the  manufacture  of  railroad  care,  four  merchants'  shops; 
one  public  library,  several  splendid  hotels,  and  three  other 
public  houses;  two  public  schools,  one  classical  Institute, 
and  one  select  school  for  young  ladies;  eighty-five  dwel- 
lings of  all  kinds,  and  upwards  of  seven  hundred  inhabi- 
tants. 

The  location  is  commended  for  its  healthiness,  and  for 
rural  beauty,  it  is  unexcelled.  It  affords  the  finest  places 
for  residences,  for  tho<?e  who  wish  to  combine  elegance  of 
scenery  and  salubrity  of  air,  of  any  on  the  Niagara  frontier. 
Nature  has  done  every  thing;  but  as  to  the  village  of  the 
Falls,  man  ha?  done  but  little.  Attached  to  some  of  the 
houeea  are  gardens,  Iruit  yards,  and  some  orchards;  and 
circling  around  are  some  beautiful  native  groves;  but  no 
pains  are  taken  to  remove  rubbish,  open  walks,  or  to  add 
to  the  attractions  of  nature.  As  to  the  width  of  the 
streets,  nice  stone  or  brick  side  walks,  the  banishment  of 
mud  and  nuisances,  each  inhabitant  on  these  subjects 
maintains  a  sturdy  independence  worthy  of  a  better  cause, 
and  much  to  the  annoyance  of  fastidious  travellers  who 
have  been  used  to  dry  and  easy  walking.  The  bad  condi- 
tion of  the  streets  is  a  serious  draw-back  on  the  pleasure 
of  visitors  who  happen  at  the  Falls  in  moist  weather,  and 
a  great  pecuniary  loss  to  the  keepers  of  the  hotels,  and 
business  people  of  the  place.  People  will  hurry  away 
when  they  have  but  the  choice  of  two  evils,  to  be  cooped 
up  in  their  rooms  or  to  encounter  wet  and  mud.  More 
money  is  this  way  every  year  lost  to  the  proprietors  of 
the  public  houses,  and  the  villagers,  than  the  necessary 
improvements  would  cost,  if  double  the  value  was  paid  for 
them. 


134  JAUNT    TO    THE    FALLS. 


Rides  of  Pleasure. 


RIDES    OF    PLEASURE. 

"  By  brook  and  river  o'er  the  plain, 
Springing  light  the  carriage  dances  ; 
With  crested  neck  and  flowing  mane, 
Bold  and  quick  the  gay  horse  prances. 
There's  glowing  cheeks  whose  beauty  smites, 

Cheerful  hearts  with  joy  rebounding ; 
Love  with  his  bewitching  wiles. 
Far  off  music,  sweetly  saunding.'^ 

A  regular  line  of  Omnibuses  and  pleasure  carriages 
has  been  established  at  the  Falls,  to  run  every  hour  from 
eight  o'clock,  A.  M.  (dining  hours  excepted,)  till  sun- 
down. 

All  the  principal  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Falls,  too  distant,  and  which  it  would  be  too  fatiguing  for 
pedestrians  to  visit,  are  passed  or  brought  into  view  from 
these  carriages. 

Tickets  are  obtainable  at  the  "  Whirlpool  Omnibus 
Office"— 

To  the  Mineral  Spring, 
*'  the  Whirlpool  Lodge, 
"  the  Devil's  Hole, 
"  Old  Portage  Road, 
"  Fort  Schlosser, 
**  Old  French  Landing. 
The  author  closes  this  part  of  his  work  with  the  fol- 
lowing charming  lines,  from  Mr.  Hooker's  Album.     Apro- 
pos —  Mr.  Hooker  should  not  be  forgotten  by  visitors  to 
the  Falls,    He  w'ae  the  first  person  who  became  a  guide 


JAUNT    TO   THE    FALLS.  135 

Lines  from  an  Album. 

to  strangers,  and  he  has  ever  distinguished  himself  by 
his  care  and  civility  to  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  have 
engaged  his  services.  He  has  guided  individuals  from 
almoel  every  nation  on  the  globe;  Turke,  Jews,  Greeks, 
Romans,  Egyptians  and  Chinese;  ex-kinge,  princes,  no- 
blemen; bishops  and  priests;  loco-focos  and  whigs;  besides 
the  "  two  Fannye."  He  has  grown  old,  but  he  is  not  the 
lees  able  to  acquit  himself  satisfactorily  to  those  who  em- 
ploy him. 

NIAGARA    FALLS. 


"  I  love  (o  paze  upon  that  ceaseless  rush 
Of  waiers;  for  it  clolh  raise  my  full  soul 
To  Hin>,  who  liids  the  deep  in  wihliiess  flow  ; 
\\'\\o  lieavcs  the  mii^hly  flood  from  rock  to  rock, 
And  sends  it  dashing  to  the  dark  abyss, 
Wiicre  il  doih  thunder  forth  His  glorious  might. 
And  speak  rtrrnaily  Jehovah's  praise. 
Scarce  less  I  love  lo  gaze  upon  tlic  circling  foanj 
Ai:d  silv'ry  mist  — for,  on  tlicir  milder  front, 
I  hchoUl  the  sweet  bow  of  promi.se,  arched  — 
That  l)ow,  which,  when  refulgent  on  his  eyes, 
And  first  was  sent  lo  cheer  his  heart, 
Who  mourn'd  the  ruins  of  a  world,— to  him 
It  apoke  of  hope,  and  peace,  and  future  calm. 
And,  as  awe  struck,  I  gaze  on  yonder  flood. 
All  terrible  in  wild  sublimity. 
Trembling  I  turn  away;  —  then  do  I  love 
To  fix  my  eyes  on  the  bright  pledge  of  hope. 
And  think  that  He  who  gave  it  to  he  ours 
Is  not  a  God  omnipotent  alone. 
But  is  a  God  of  love  —  eternal  love." 

Niagara  Falls,  3d  Aug.  18-35." 

12 


■i  ! 


I  If  II 


fiiliiii' 


A   JAUNT 


IRIS  AND  OTHER  ISLANDS, 


l.V    THE    VICIMTT    OF 


NIAGARA    FALLS 


"  S;iy,  sliall  we  wind 
Along  llie  streams  ?  or  w:tll<  ilie  smiling  mead  ? 
Or  court  ilic  forrst  glade  ?  " 

There  are  Bevcral  islands,  which,  from  their  locality 
and  peculiar  position  in  reference  to  the  Falls,  have 
attracted  the  attention  and  curiosity  of  strangers;  and  a 
visit,  to  some  of  them,  is  never  neglected  by  those  who 
have  an  opportmiity.  The  one  most  interesting  is  Iris, 
or,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  Goat  Island.  Many  years 
since,  a  resident  at  Schlosser,  put  some  goats  on  the 
island,  and  hence  the  name.  The  present  proprietors 
have  given  it  the  name  of  Iris  island.  As  that  is  very 
appropriate,  it  is  proper  that  it  should  be  generally  adop- 
ted. 


140  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Iris  Island. 


It  lies  in  latitude  43  deg.  6  min.  and  longitude  2  deg. 
5  sec.  west  from  Washington  city;  and  contains  between 
eixty  and  seventy  acres.  Though  the  soil  is  an  accumu- 
lation of  earth  upon  a  heap  of  rocks,  yet  it  is  very  fertile, 
producing  all  the  native  plants  of  the  country  in  great 
luxuriance.  A  circuit  round  it,  which  visitors  usually 
take,  is  about  a  mile.  By  the  boundary  commissioners, 
who  were  appointed  under  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  it  was 
very  properly  adjudged  to  belong  to  the  United  States; 
and  the  Indian  title  being  extinguished,  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  private  individuals.  Just  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
island,  commence  the  terrific  rapids  that  lead  on  to  the 
Falls.  There  the  river  divides;  the  main  body  passing 
on  the  south-western  side,  and  the  leseer  on  the  north- 
eastern. The  lower  end  of  the  island  is  like  the  main 
shore  below  the  Falls — a  perpendicular  bank,  from  sev- 
enty to  ninety  feet,  and  thence,  to  the  water's  edge,  a 
sloping  precipice  of  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet.  A  small  portion  of  the  island  has  been 
cleared  off,  and  is  in  a  state  of  cultivation;  but  the  prin- 
cipal part  is  yet  covered  with  native  forest  trees,  of  vari- 
ous kinds:  through  the  density  of  some  of  which,  when 
covered  with  their  rich  foliage,  the  rays  of  the  sun  are 
seldom  admitted. 

In  making  the  tour  of  the  island,  occasion  will  be 
taken  to  mention  and  describe  such  other  islands  that 
lie  in  the  Niagara  river,  as  have  in  any  way  drawn  ih» 
attention  of  the  public. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  141 

Jaunt  to  the  Island. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLAND. 

**  Go  to  the  cool  and  shady  bowers, 

Where  flow  the  wild  cascades  ; 
Stroll  through  eacii  green  and  deep  recess, 

And  dark  romantic  glades. 
Then,  rest  thee,  on  the  mossy  bank, 

Or  onwnnl  further  stray. 
And  giizc  upon  the  mighty  stream, 

Tliat  winds  its  course  away." 

The  party  leave  the  hotel,  and  turn  down  a  short 
street,  called  Bridge  etreet.  They  fall  into  conversation 
with  the  tjuide,  making  such  inquiries  of  him  as  are 
usually  interesting  to  travellers,  and  such  as  are 
commonly  made.  The  information  which  follows,  is  in 
answer  to  such  questioiifl: 

Besides  seeing  the  Falls,  travellers,  who  remain  for  any 
length  of  time,  find  various  amusements. 

The  pleasure  Grorden,  comprising  about  one  acre  of 
ground,  a  few  rods  south  of  the  Falls,  is  an  attractive 
place.  It  affords  n  fine  view  of  the  Falls,  and  the  enter- 
tainments offered  by  the  proprietor  are  of  a  very  superior 
order;  and  especially  his  evening  exhibitions  of  fire -works. 
For  variety  and  brilliancy  they  are  unsurpassed. 

For  thoae  who  like  in-door  exercise,  there  is  a  ball  or 
ten-pin  alley.  There  is,  also,  in  the  village,  got  up 
exclusively  for  the  use  of  travellers,  several  billiard 
tables. 

There  is  a  library;  and  at  another  place  a  reading-room; 
but  the  locality  itself,  in  general,  affords  abundant  amuse- 
ment for  several  days. 
12* 


142  JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Amusements. 

Some  resort  to  the  baths  :  others  bathe  in  the  river. 
Some  amuse  themselves  in  fishing  ;  others  in  fowling, 
and  in  seeking  after  the  great  bald  eagle.  Some  of  the 
noblest  of  the  species  have  been  found  in  this  quarter ; 
specimens  of  which  are  to  be  eoen  at  Mr.  Barnet's  mu- 
seum, in  Canada. 

The  generality  of  travellers  ride  to  those  places  which 
it  has  become  fashionable  to  visit.  Old  Fort  Schlosser, 
up  the  river  —  the  mineral  spring  —  the  Whirlpool  — 
the  Tuscaroras  Indian  village  —  and  Fort  Niagara. 

Besides  these,  considerable  time  may  be  spent  most 
pleasantly  in  a  trip  to  Canada. 

On  Sunday,  some  travellers  go  to  church,  in  the  vil- 
lage; others  go  to  the  meeting-house  of  the  Indians;  some 
ride  to  the  places  mentioned;  and  some  promenade  round 
the  island  and  Falls. 

The  party  are  descending  a  small  declivity,  towards  the 
bridge,  to  the  island. 

Traveller. —  "Indeed,  this  prospect  is  very  grand;  those 
majestic  waves,  bounding  and  curving  along,  and  that 
bridge  lying  at  rest  over  them  !  Here  is  nature,  in  aU 
her  might;  and  the  art  of  man  triumphing  over  obslaclea 
appearing  almost  insurmountable." 


THE    BRIDGE    TO    THE    ISLAND. 

The  construction  of  this  bridge  appeared  almost  incre- 
dible to  an  individual  who  happened  to  be  at  this  place 
when  the  work  was  going  forward.     One  or  two  of  the 


JAL'NT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  143 

Krid2e  lo  Uic  Island. 

piers  only  were  Inid  down.  He  enquired  of  the  workmen 
ibe  object  of  the  bridge,  and  to  where  it  was  going.  "  To 
the  island,"  wna  the  reply.  "I  don't  want  lo  live  any 
longer,"  enid  the  stranger,  **  than  until  you  get  this  bridge 
to  tbe  island."  He  could  not  be  convinced  that  its  con- 
Btruction  waa  practicable. 

It  was  built  by  first  erecting  piers  near  the  shore;  long 
timbers  were  then  projected  beyond  them.  After  which, 
two  substantial  posts  or  studs  were  let  down,  and  rested 
or»  the  bottom,  at  the  end  of  the  projecting  timbers,  which 
were  firmly  secured  to  them,  and  supported  them,  until 
a  smiiU  crib  filled  with  stones,  was  sunk.  Then  the  large 
timbers  for  the  piers  were  framed,  put  d<iwn,  and  fastened 
to  the  small  crib.  They  were  then  filled  with  stones, 
the  string  pieces  put  on,  and  the  planks  laid.  After  ono 
pier  and  btnt  were  completed  in  this  manner,  the  long 
timlxTd  were  again  moved  forward,  and  another,  and 
another,  constructed,  until  the  whole  were  finished.  The 
projectors  were  Judge  Porter  and  his  brother,  Gen.  Porter, 
who  are  the  owners  of  the  island.  Tbe  original  cost  of 
the  bridge  was  only  about  sixteen  hundred  dollars. 

The  first  bridge  erected  to  the  island,  in  1817,  was 
built  further  up  the  river,  opposite  to  the  residence  of 
Judge  Porter.  The  winter  after  its  erection,  in  1818,  it 
was  carried  away  by  the  ice,  and  in  the  following  summer 
a  bridge  was  built  on  the  present  site,  passing  to  Bath 
island.  In  1839  it  was  rebuilt;  its  present  construction 
is  more  firm  and  substantial  than  the  first. 

The  erect  itm  of  this  bridge  has  universally  received  the 
commendation  of  travellers.  It  enables  them,  with  a  tri- 
fling expense,  to  visit  the  island  with  safety  and  conven- 


144  JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Keil  Jacket. 

ience;  an  undertaking  which,  before,  was  attended  with 
considerable  espenee,  and  some  exposure  to  danger.  It 
has  thrown  open  to  the  pubhc  view,  one  of  the  wonders 
of  the  world,  which,  to  the  greatest  proportion  of  visitors, 
could  only  be  seen  at  a  distance. 

The  income  of  the  bridge  is  considerable,  but  no  more 
than  a  fair  return  for  such  a  work.  Too  much  credit 
cannot  be  bestowed  upon  the  genius  that  suggested  the 
project,  and  so  substantially  executed  it. 

The  celebrated  Indian  Chief,  Red  Jacket,  passed  over 
the  bridge  with  one  of  the  proprietors,  shortly  after  it 
was  completed.  His  sinister  feelings  towards  white  men, 
and  his  envy  of,  their  superiority  over  his  brothers  of  the 
forest,  are  well  known.  As  he  walked  along,  the  min- 
gled emotions  of  hate,  envy,  and  admiration,  which 
rankled  in  his  bosom,  were  expressed  every  little  while, 
as  he  looked  on  the  dashing  waters,  firm  piers,  and  se- 
cure  superstructure,    with  " Yankee,"  ** 

Yankee,"  applying  an  epithet  not  proper  to  mention, 
though  easily  guessed,  —  one  demonstrative  more  of  spite 
than  good  will. 

Arriving  at  Bath  island,  the  travellers  ascend  the  bank, 
enter  the  toll-house,  and  pay  the  charge  of  twenty-five 
cents  each;  which  gives  the  individual  the  privilege  of 
visiting  the  island  during  his  stay  at  the  Falls,  or  at  any 
time  thereafter  for  the  current  year. 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  145 


BATH    ISLAND. 


The  isle  is  full  of  noises, 

iliai  {rive  lielifflil,  ajid  hurt  noL" 


A  traveller  thus  speaks  of  this  island:  "  It  is  itself  a 
curioHity  worth  beholding.  To  visit  this,  alone,  would 
be  worth  the  cost  of  the  bridge  which  leads  to  it.  Why, 
it  is  a  perfect  c!ia(»s  I  How  the  waters  rush  and  roar 
along,  beating  vaiidy  ngainst  the  impregnable  rock  to 
which  it  is  fast  bound.  Those  trees  and  green  patches; 
the  broken  surface  and  firm  rocks  are  nil  in  unison  with 
each  other.  Nature  has  charms  here,  amid  the  boister- 
ous waters  of  the  Niagara,  that  I  little  imagined." 

On  the  ^oulh  sifleof  the  island  is  a  paper  manufactory, 
belonging  to  the  Messrs.  Porters.  It  is  one  of  the  lar- 
gest and  best  conducted  in  western  New- York,  and  in 
which  paper  is  made  with  machinery,  of  the  latest  im- 
provement. The  rags  are  put  in  the  engine,  and  are 
passed  out  through  the  machinery,  in  one  continuous 
sheet  of  paper,   dry  and  finished  for  use. 

The  islands  observed  just  above  Bath  island,  are  Sloop 
and  Brig  "islands.  A  foot  bridge  formerly  extended  to 
them,  and  they  were  a  favorite  resort  of  visitors  in  the 
warm  afternoons  of  summer.  The  shade  of  the  trees, 
tlie  conmiotion  of  the  surrounding  water,  and  the  cool 
breeze  that  constantly  agitates  the  air,  make  them,  for 
social  parties,  a  delightful  retreat  for  an  hour  or  two. 

Having  passed,  with  much  admiration,  the  bridge  which 


146  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

American  Flag  placed  in  tijc  Hapicls. 

spans  the  beautiful  and  rapid  piece  of  water  which  courses 
along,  between  Bath  and  Iris  i elands,  they  arrive  upon 
the  latter  island. 

Before  the  bridge  was  built,  Iris  island  was  visited  by 
boats,  running  down  between  the  two  currents,  to  the 
upper  point  of  the  island.  To  strangers,  the  navigation 
appeared  very  hazardous,  and  it  was  not  without  danger. 

In  the  severe  winter  of  1829,  the  great  accumulation  of 
ice  in  the  river,  formed  a  communication  fiom  the  main 
shore  to  the  island;  and,  though  the  bridges  were  then 
built,  yet  many  persons,  for  curiosity  and  a  ramble,  pre- 
ferred crossing  over  on  the  ice.  In  that  winter,  all  the 
adjacent  islands  were  accessible,  and  were  vit-ited  by  many 
persons;  and  the  American  flag  was  planted  on  a  ledge  of 
rocks  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  above  Brig  island. 
There,  surrounded  by  the  dashing  waves,  it  floated  gal- 
lantly during  the  succeeding  summer,  to  the  admiration 
and  wonder  of  strangers,  of  how  it  came  there. 


A    DARING    ENTERrRlSE. 

"  From  a  boy, 

I  wantoned  with  thy  breakers  —  they  to  me 
Were  a  delight." 

The  most  hardy  and  daring  enterprise  known  of  late 
years  to  have  been  performed  upon  the  rapids  of  the  Nia- 
gara, was  undertaken  by  Mr.  Joel  R.  Robinson  and  Mr. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  147 

A  Slory.  " 

John  Smith.  There  was  observed  to  be  in  the  river  be- 
low Both  inland,  hanging  to  the  rocks,  and  waving  in  the 
watiT,  something  that  had  the  appearance  of  cotton  cloth. 
These  pcrecme  got  a  boat,  and  launched  it  in  the  river 
mar  the  pa[K'r  mill  floom.  Robinson  was  to  manage  the 
Ixtat,  and  Smith  to  secure  the  prize.  They  succeeded  in 
going  very  near  the  point  of  the  island  which  lies  to  the 
Bonthwcst  of  Bath  island,  and  just  above  the  Falls.  They 
secured  two  pieces  of  domestic  sheetings,  and  returned  in 
safety,  Robinson  having  managed  the  boat  over  the  driving 
and  impetuous  water  in  perfect  self-possession,  and  with 
apparent  rnso. 

Iris  island  hnd  often  been  visited  both  by  the  French 
and  English,  previous  to  the  Americans  coming  in  pos- 
session. The  initials  of  names  have  been  found  ufion  tho 
trees  bearing  a  date  as  far  back  as  1742.  In  an  old  Eng- 
lish matnizine,  it  is  related,  that  on  a  time,  two  Indians 
wore,  by  accident,  cast  on  the  island.  They  made  ropes 
of  the  bark  of  trccn,  and  passed  down  the  lower  bank  to 
the  river,  but  being  afraid  to  enter  in  between  the  two 
sheets  of  water,  returned.  An  ingenious  French  black- 
smith, belonging  to  a  corps  of  artificers,  who  were  then  in 
this  quarter,  seeing  their  suffering  and  perilous  condition, 
con.-tructed  a  pair  of  stilts,  by  which  means  he  passed 
over  safely  to  them,  carrying  them  over  supplies;  and  by 
the  same  means  finally  succeeded  in  getting  them  off. 
The  8tor>'  is  doubted,  but  it  is  not  altogether  incredible. 
Some  years  ago,  the  construction  of  a  bridge  over  the 
roughest  part  of  the  river,  to  the  same  place,  would  have 
been  considered  more  impracticable  than  the  performance 
juat  mentioned. 


148  JAUNT   TO   THE    ISLANDS. 


The  Grove  — Hog's  Back. 


On  ascending  the  hill,  from  the  bridge,  three  walke 
are  presented  :  one  to  the  right,  leading  to  the  Biddle 
stair-case  and  to  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall;  the  one  in  front, 
goes  directly  across  the  island;  and  the  one  to  the  left, 
passes  near  the  edge  of  the  bank,  to  the  upper  end. 

The  party  continue  the  jaunt,  taking  the  road  leading 
to  the  Biddle  stair-case.  It  is  the  course  usually  taken. 
On  advancing  a  short  distance,  they  enter  a  lofty  grove 
of  trees,  through  which  the  walk  passes  for  some  distance. 
It  is  one  of  those  delicious  places  for  which  nature  has 
done  every  thing,  and  to  which  art  can  add  nothing.  The 
road  that  passes  through  it,  accomplishes  all  that  ever 
should  be  done,  and  the  sound  of  the  axe  should  never  bo 
heard  upon  these  trees,  to  disturb  the  stillness  which 
reigns  around  this  spot,  or  to  profane  what  nature  seems 
to  have  consecrated. 

As  the  road  nears  the  lower  end  of  the  island,  the 
height  of  the  bank,  from  the  edge  of  the  water,  increases; 
from  which  circumstance,  it  appears,  this  part  of  the  isl- 
and has  received  the  name  of  the  Hog's  Back.  The  nfime 
is  considered  very  inapplicable;  but,  as  some  travellers 
have  spoken  of  the  Hog's  Back,  as  being  something  pecu- 
liar, it  has  been  thought  proper  thus  succinctly  to  refer 
to  it. 

At  the  northwest  comer  of  the  island  there  is  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  river,  of  Canada,  and  of  the  American 
Falls,  suitably  so  termed,  as  they  are  entirely  within  the 
United  States.  The  actual  boundary  is  in  the  centre  of 
the  river,  between  the  island  and  Canada,  and  must  be 
about  the  middle  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls.  By  some  means 
or  other,  the  public  have  been  led  into  a  mistalce  on  this 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  149 

Prospect  Island. 

eubject,  and  it  has  been  by  many  supposed  that  the  prin- 
cipal Falls  were  in  Canada.  Some  have  even  spoken  of 
"the  Niagara  Falls,  in  Canada."  The  truth  is,  a  portion 
of  the  Falls  is  exclusively  in  the  State  of  New- York,  and 
nlw)  half  of  the  main  channel,  as  it  constitutes  the  boun- 
d&ry  line. 


PROSPECT    ISLAND. 


"  Where  Icapd 

The  lorrciit  in  its  wild  career, 
While  shake  its  barriers,  as  in  fear." 


From  the  point  of  Iris  island,  fronting  the  American 
Falls,  descends  a  path  towards  Prospect  island,  sometimes 
called  Mrs.  Davie's  iela  id.  as,  while  she  was  visiting  the 
Falls,  a  foot  bridge  was  thrown  over  to  it,  and  on  its 
extreme  point  she  planted  a  few  seeds  of  the  everlasting 
pea,  which  were  oliserved  some  years  afterwards  in  bloom, 
with  their  beautiful  little  flowers  hanging  over  the  side  of 
the  bank,  near  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  The  bridge,  to 
this  island,  is  generally  carried  away  in  the  winter,  and 
replaced  again  in  the  summer.  It  is  worth  crossing  over, 
to  ramble  through  the  tangled  evergreens,  to  look  down 
the  high  bank,  and  enjoy  the  prospect  which  is  there  dis- 
played. 

13 


150  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

In  graham' s  Cave. 


"The  weeping  rocks  distil,  with  constant  dews  ; 
The  gushing  waters  pensive  thoughts  infuse. 
Here  a  vast  arch,  the  cavity  so  wide, 
Scarce  can  the  eye  extend  from  side  to  side. 
High  o'er  tlie  roof  alternate  echoes  wave, 
And  sound  in  distant  thunders,  through  the  cave." 

This  cave  was  first  discovered  by  Joseph  W.  In  graham, 
Esq.  who  gave  it  the  name  of  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  one 
as  applicable  as  any  that  can  be  used;  yet,  the  public,  de- 
sirous to  award  some  meed  of  their  esteem  to  the  amiable 
discoverer,  have,  in  many  instances,  evinced  a  desire  to 
use  his  name,  and  call  it  Ingraham's  Cave.  It  was  first 
entered  by  Mr.  George  Sims  and  Mr.  Berry  Hill  White, 
of  Niagara  Falls  village.  They  passed  over  the  rocks,  and 
through  a  part  of  the  sheet  of  water.  It  was,  they  alleged, 
difficult  and  hazardous,  but  they  acknowledged  theniselves 
fully  rewarded  in  the  new  and  magnificent  scene  which 
the  lofty  cavern  presented.  Mr.  Ingraham  soon  afterwards 
visited  it  himself,  and  Horatio  A.  Parsons,  Esq.  and  a  few 
others,  have  since  ventured  in.  It  is  represented  to  be 
near  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide,  about  thirty  feet 
deep,  and  a  noble  arch  hanging  over  head  eighty  feet 
high,  and  the  sheet  of  water  rolling  in  front. 

It  is  said  to  be  quite  a;i  adventure  to  go  under  Table 
Rock:  it  is  a  much  greater  one,  to  visit  this  cavern. 

The  following  beautiful  lines  arc  taken  from  Mr.  Hook- 
er's Album: 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  151 

Tlie  Bidillp;  Hlair-case. 

Dread  awe-inspiring  cavern  !    '3Iong  tlie  new, 

Wild,  wond'roiis  objerts  that  around  I  view. 

None  strikes  my  ^oul  like  Uice  1    Thou  seem'st  to  me 

The  very  portal  of  suldimity  ! 

And  nature  —  as  if  dreading;  to  expose 

The  hiilden  mysteries  of  her  inighiy  throes  — 

Hath  thrown  over  thee  a  wide-spread,  beauteous  veil. 

Woven  from  the  air-hnng  wairrs  —  snatcliej  from  out 
Their  woniC;l  chaiiiiel  for  this  strong  avail  — 

A  till  dyed  it  wiiii  the  loveliest  tints  throughout,— 
E'en  frinired  it  with  a  rainbow  !     Mighty  cave  ' 
Wliai  sliall  we  e^l  the  ?    Wluil  name  could'st  thou  have 
More  til  than  his,  who  first  thy  depths  did  scan  — 
First  ope'd  thy  rocky  doors  to  wond'ring  man  ? 
Yes  :   while  tierce  winds  thy  vaulted  arches  sweep, 

And  thy  wild  shores  the  rushing  wtiters  lave. 
Or  thunder  there  terrific  vigiU  keep, — 

Be  thou  forever  known  as  I.vgraham's  Cave  ! 

A.  II.  P.,  of  Georgia." 


THE    RIDDLE    STAIU-CASE. 

The  pnrly,  after  their  progress  to  Prospect  island,  re- 
trace tbeir  steps,  and  continue  their  route  to  the  Biddle 
stnir-cnse.  This  convenience,  for  descending  the  bank, 
was  erected  at  the  expense  of  Nicholas  Biddle,  Esq.  It 
was  a  great  desideratum  to  travellers,  to  be  enable  to  reach 
this  part  of  the  island,  to  range  along  over  the  rocks,  and 
to  advance  near  the  sheets  of  water.  The  stairs  are  of  the 
spiral  form,   well  secured  from  the  weather,  and   abofit 


152  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Horse  Shoe  Falls. 

eighty  feet  high.  Near  the  foot  of  these  stairs,  at  the 
edge  of  the  water,  Sam.  Patch,  in  1829,  made  two  leaps 
from  a  platform,  ninety-seven  feet  high,  erected  for  the 
purpose.  Sam.  came  off  with  credit  here;  but  shortly 
after,  the  poor  fellow  made  two  leaps  at  Rochester, —  one 
from  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  the  other  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  The  last  proved  fatal;  he 
did  not  rise,  and  was  never  found. 

After  the  travellers  have  proceeded  below,  and  gone,  as 
near  the  sheets  of  water  on  each  side  as  they  desired,  and 
had  pointed  out  to  them  all  the  objects  of  interest,  they 
return,  and  resume  their  walk  along  the  brow  of  the  bank. 


THE    HORSE    SHOE    FALLS. 

"  Thou  fearful  stream  ! 

How  do  thy  terrors  tear  me  from  my  myself, 
And  fill  my  soul  with  wonder  !"' 

This  sublime  prospect  opens  to  view  suddenly,  between 
the  trees.  The  rainbow,  seen  below,  encompassing  a 
cloud  of  spray,  is  as  beautiful,  with  all  its  mellow  tints  of 
coloring,  as  the  same  object  appears  after  a  summer's 
shower. 

The  rainbows  are  seen  according  to  the  position  of  the 
spectator  with  that  of  the  sun.  In  the  morning,  they  are 
viewed  from  this  side;  in  the  afternoon  from  the  British 
side.  At  night,  when  the  moon  shines  brightly,  a  lunar 
bow  encircles  the  Falls,  with  rays  well  defined,  but  pale 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  153 

Prospect  Tower. 

and  murky.  On  ruch  nights,  large  parties  of  visitors 
cnngrcyate  on  the  island,  and  melancholy  influences  seem 
to  pervade  every  bo3om.  The  mind  instinctively  feels  the 
sentiment  of  the  poet  — 

"  Oh  nioon  !  thou  bright,  tliou  beautiful ! 
How  many  are  the  scenes  of  woe  on  which 
Tiiy  pure  li;rlu  beamelh  1" 

The  cnroi)tured  sentimentalist  lingers  around  this  scene, 
rnnversatioii  is  conducted  in  lowly  whispers,  and  the  mind 
becomes  wrapped  in  sad  and  unwonted  meditations.  The 
great  Fails,  the  lovely  raoon  coursing  its  way  through 
the  high  firmament,  the  pale  arch  which  spans  the  cata- 
ract, the  sombre  woods,  the  deep  mysterious  gulf,  the 
runhing  waters,  all  combine  powerfully  to  affect  the  mind. 
No  noisy  conviviahty,  no  boisterous  mirth  prevails  at  such 
limes,  and  no  sound  is  heard  except  the  deep  and  hollow 
roar  of  the  Fulls. 

Thai  this  is  nut  an  imaginary  picture,  every  one  who 
has  witnesped  the  scene  will  allow. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Horpe  Shoe  Falls,  the  water  is  of 
a  pure  green  color,  and  is  adjudged  to  be  about  twenty 
foci  deep. 


PROSPECT    TOWER. 

This  is  a  circular  building,  with  an  ohservntory  on  the 
top,  built  below  the  point  of  the  island,  among  the  Ter- 
rapin rocks.      From  the  observatory   is  presented  a  full 
13* 


154  JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Impressions  of  Visitors. 

view  into  the  very  midst  of  the  great  Falls,  and  into  the 
great  chasm  below. 

"  It  bubl)Ies  up,  it  gurgles  forth,  it  hisses  and  it  roars, 
As  when  on  raging  fire  a  stream  of  gushing  water  pours  ; 
Wild  sheets  of  foam  shoot  through  the  air,  waves  thunder 

towards  heaven, 
As  forth  from  out  the  black  abyss  the  billowy  flood  ia  driven." 

The  timber  and  fragments  that  are  scattered  around, 
are  the  remains  of  a  bridge,  built  by  Gen.  Whitney,  a 
part  of  which  projected  over  the  bank.  It  was  on  a 
single  projecting  timber  of  this  bridge,  that  it  was  usual 
for  Francis  Abbott  to  walk,  and,  at  the  extreme  end, 
turn  on  his  heel  and  walk  back. 

The  Terrapin  bridge  should  be  re-built.  It  afforded  an 
unqualled  prospect  into  the  white  and  misty  chasm.  And 
to  spectators  at  a  distance,  the  Hght  bridge  hanging  over 
the  clouds  and  rainbow  below;  the  moving  forms  upon  it, 
surrounded  by  the  flickering  spray;  now  seen,  and  anon 
hid  from  view,  gave  to  the  scene  an  impressive  interest 
deeply  felt  by  every  sentimental  mind. 


THE    IMPRESSIONS    OF    VISITORS. 

"  When  nature's  might  some  wond'rous  scene  unfolds, 
And  awe-struck  man  the  glorious  work  beholds, 
In  silence  fix'd  —  th'  enrapt  nnagination  — 
More  than  loud  words,  shows  forth  its  admiration." 

It  is  frequently  inquired,  what  are  the  usual  impres- 
sions of  visitors?     They  are  various.     A  very  few  think 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  155 

Painful  impression. 

lighlly  of  the  Falls,  or  express  surprise  that  others  are  so 
nbsorbed  and  plen.ned  with  them.  Such  persons  usually 
remark,  "  Is  this  all?  I  have  been  deceived!"  or  the  cli- 
max of  their  admiration  is  expressed  in  — 

"  Oh  1  what  a  place  to  sponge  a  coat '." 

Some  are  so  much  moved,  as  to  form  a  lasting  attach- 
ment, and  visit  them  often,  even  from  great  distances. 
Others  have  been  completely  infatuated,  and  seem  only 
to  live  in  beholding  this  sublime  work,  of  nature,  and  in 
inhaling  the  pure  though  mist-impregnated  atmosphere, 
which  arises  from  the  broken  waters. 

Some  look  upon  the  Falls  with  feelings  of  drend,  and 
the  impressions  they  leave  on  their  minds,  are  those  of 
terror.  Many  years  since,  when  travelling,  I  fell  in  with 
a  party  at  a  public  house.  Niagara  Falls  happened  to  be- 
come a  topic  of  conversation.  "  The  Falls,"  said  a  lady 
who  was  present,  ''  I  saw  them  three  months  ago,  and 
neither  sleeping  or  waking,  are  they  out  of  my  mind.  1 
hear  them  roar,  and  see  them  before  me  continually." 

**  Is  their  impression  painful  or  pleasant  ?"  I  enquired. 
**  Oh,  very  painful  and  distressing  I  They  are  dread- 
ful! "  was  her  reply. 

When  a  party  of  Indians,  from  the  far  west,  were  on 
their  return  from  Washington,  they  were  brought  this 
way.  When  they  saw  the  Falls,  they  evinced  emotions 
of  reverence,  and  cast  their  pipes,  wampum,  and  several 
trinkets,  in  the  water,  as  offerings  to  the  Mighty  Spirit 
of  the  place. 

Many  gentlemen  have   expressed  themselves  as  expe- 


156  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Winter  scenes. 

riencing  very  strange  sensations,  while  beholding  the 
Falls.  Fear  —  a  perception  of  weakness  —  trembling  of 
the  nerves;  but  the  predominant  sensations  are  those  of 
reverence. 

Traveller. — "  Such  sensations  are  becoming  the  place; 
for  who  can  look  upon  these  rising  clouds,  this  rush  of 
many  waters,  these  walls  of  solid  rock,  and  this  abyss 
of  foam,  without  reverencing  Him  who  made  them,  and 
upholds  them  still." 


WINTER    SCENERY. 

— "  Who  can  paint 

Like  nature  ?    Can  imagination  boast, 
Amid  its  gay  crr^alion,  iiiies  like  liers?" 

The  Falb,  in  winter,  present  a  very  different  appear- 
ance from  that  of  any  o1bcr  soai?on  of  the  year.  Large 
quantities  of  ice  accumulate  in  the  river  below,  which, 
gradually  gathering  in  the  eddies  with  that  which  is 
brought  from  above,  join  together,  and  form  a  natural 
bridge.  This  bridge  of  ice  extends,  frequently,  to  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  sheet  of  water,  and  to  the  rapids, 
two  miles  below.  It  is  in  places  from  twenty  to  forty 
feet  thick.     On  the  rocks,  such  large  quantities  of  snow 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  157 

Winter  scenery. 

nnd  congealed  mist  collect,  as  to  form  pyramids,  reaching 
nlinoBt  to  the  upper  surface  of  the  Falls.  On  the  perpen- 
dicular banks  are  suspended  huge  icicles,  of  the  most 
fanciful  shapes,  which  are  white  as  alabaster,  and  appear 
nt  a  distance  like  magnificent  columns.  But  the  most 
!)eautiful  sight  is  the  spray  congealed  upon  the  surroun- 
ding trees  and  shrubs.  Every  branch  is  incrustcd.  It 
looks  like  a  forest  of  coral,  but  of  dazzling  whiteness. 
Towards  the  close  of  the  day,  in  winter,  when  the  rays 
of  the  declining  sun  passes  through  the  rising  cloud  ot 
mist,  it  appears  as  if  tinged  with  burnished  gold,  or  as 
a  bright  flame  of  fire,  floating  in  mid  air.  This,  with  the 
trees,  in  their  dress  of  perfect  whitenc6=i,  makes  the  scene 
6o  novel,  so  strange,  that  it  appears  like  fair>--work,  or 
ns  one  of  enfbantnient.  Nothing  is  wanted  but  the  ice 
jjalace  of  Catharine  of  Russia,  to  make  it  like  a  perfect 
winter  paradise  to  the  ey£.  The  eye  only  can  be  de- 
lighted; to  every  other  sense,  it  is  the  very  essence  of 
frost  and  cold — of  vapor  and  glittering  snow:  a  meet 
place  for  ancient  winter's  court. 

Travellers  who  have  visited  the  Falls,  in  the  winter, 
say  that  when  the  trees  are  thus  arrayed,  the  views  affor- 
ded are  superior  to  those  of  summer.  Just  to  look  on, 
for  a  short  period,  it  is,  indeed,  unequalled;  but  you  must 
soon  hurrj'  away  to  the  warm  rooms  of  the  hotels.  In 
summer,  you  can  ramble  through  the  groves,  where  na- 
ture is  clothed  in  her  beautit^il  dress  of  green;  then,  you 
pass  from  scene  to  scene  —  "all  nature  smiles."  Noth- 
ing can  compaie  with  the  beauty  as  well  as  grandeur  of 
this  place  while  puiumer  holds  her  cheerful  and  happy 
reign. 


158  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 


Shrubs  and  Plants  —  Insects. 


SHRUBS    AND    PLANTS. 

"Summer]  deJicious  summer  !  tliou  dost  fling 
Thy  unhonght  treasures  o'er  the  gloru)us  earth'. 
Music  is  in  thy  step,  and  in  thine  eye 
A  flood  of  sunshine  !    On  thy  l)row  is  wreathed 
Cariands  that  vvitlier  not,  and  in  thy  breath 
Are  all  the  perfumes  of  Arabia  1" 

It  has  been  reported,  that  there  are  many  plants  found 
on  Iris  island,  not  common  to  the  surrounding  country. 
This  is  not  correct;  but  there  is,  certainly,  in  the  small 
space  of  the  island,  a  greater  variety  of  plants  to  be  ob- 
tained, than  at  any  other  place.  For  this  reason,  many 
visitors  are  in  the  practice  of  collecting  herbariums  of 
such  as  they  fancy. 

There  is  one  peculiarity  reputed  of  this  island,  which 
is  a  desideratum  vainly  desired  at  many  places.  It  is, 
that  there  are  here  no  musketoes,  or  other  insects,  to  an- 
noy or  interrupt  the  repose  of  those  who  seek  these  se- 
cluded bowers. 

This  has  been  contradicted  ;  but,  in  support  of  the 
assertion,  an  individual,  who  has  resided  for  over  twenty 
years  at  the  Falls,  states  that,  during  that  time,  he  has 
not  seen  a  dozen  musketoes,  nor  been  bit  by  one;  and 
that  he  has  often  visited  the  island,  and  never  observed 
an  insect  of  this  description  on  it. 

The  party,  in  advancing  along  the  path,  by  the  side 
of  the  river,  come  to  a  place  where  the  walk  is  suddenly 
terminated  by  the  caving  in  of  the  bank. 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  159 

Vessels  sent  over  Ihe  Falls. 

The  river,  at  this  spot,  has  made  advances  on  the 
shore  several  hundred  feet  ;  and  the  road,  which  a  few 
years  ai^o  was  made  to  encircle  the  island,  is  here  for 
some  distance  washed  away.  The  water  is  continuing 
its  devastating  power,  most  forcibly.  A  large  piece  of 
the  island  will  soon  be  carried  over  the  Foils,  or  a  new 
channel  will  be  fcrrmed,  dividing  it  in  twv. 


VESSELS    SENT    OVER    TJiE     FALLS. 

"  Like  llice.  full  nian}  u  ^ulluiil  li;  rk 
Il.olc:*  on  its  l"ii!"(i  \v:iy  ; 
Tlie  \N  .iNe,  til''  ;iiilf,  llie  f;ivern  diirk, 
Ope'  to  receive  tlieir  prey." 

The  party,  being  on  a  position  that  cnnimnndcd  a  view 
of  the  ve;-s«'ls  going  down  the  river,  and  paseing  over  the 
Falls,  some  account  of  them  is  usually  requested.  The 
schooner  Michigan,  an  old  merchant  vessel,  of  lake  Erie, 
was  dismantled,  with  the  exception  of  the  masts,  and 
rigging  enough  to  hold  them  up,  and  sent  over  in  Sep- 
tember, 1827;  and  the  Superior  was  sent  over  in  Octo- 
ber, two  years  after.  They  were  towed  to  the  centre  of 
the  stream,  between  Navy  island  and  Canada,  and  let 
loose.  The  Michigan  came  majestically  along;  figures, 
representing  men,  were  placed  at  proper  stations,  and  a 
niunbcr  of  animals,  both  domestic  and  wild,  were  on 
board. 


160  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Vessels  passing  over  the  Falls. 

The  putting  of  animals  on  board,  for  certain  destruc- 
tion, for  mere  amusement,  was  not  generally  approved; 
but,  in  extenuation,  it  was  said  that  none  had  been  taken 
but  the  useless  and  vicious,  and  euch  as  would  have  been 
destroyed,  if  they  had  not  been  selected  for  this  purpose. 

Onward  the  vessel  floated,  the  river  was  smooth,  and 
all  was  quiet  on  board.  The  poor  animals,  having  been 
tormented  as  they  had  passed  through  the  hands  of  the 
vicious  and  unfeeling,  tired  and  worn  out,  had  laid  them- 
selves on  the  deck  and  in  corners,  to  rest.  She  arrived 
at  the  first  descending  swell,  and  passed  down  gallantly. 
All  was  yet  in  repose  on  board;  she  came  to  a  more  ra- 
pid descent;  was  tossed  to  and  fro,  and  the  animals  were 
seen  running  about  from  one  place  to  another.  Bruin 
was  more  actively  engaged  than  others,  amid  the  doom- 
ed throng,  he  took  an  observation  from  the  rigging, 
which  he  ascended,  and  then  returned  to  the  deck.  Still 
very  near  the  centre  of  the  river  she  passed  along.  An- 
other, and  a  greater  pitch  is  made  —  her  bow  points  to- 
wards the  Falls  —  she  rocks  from  side  to  side  —  vainly 
she  labors  to  pass  the  rocky  reef: — the  masts  go  by  the 
board.  One  deep  descent  more:  she  groans  harshly  over 
the  verge  —  her  bow  descends,  and  with  an  astounding 
crash,  falls  upon  the  rocks;  she  breaks  in  two —  the  tim- 
bers sink  to  the  water's  edge  —  and  the  whole  moves  on, 
a  floating,  broken  mass,  and  pass  over  the  Falls.  The 
bear,  and  one  or  two  other  animals^  reached  alive  the 
Canada  shore,  above  the  Falls:  all  the  others  perished. 
Between  fifteen  and  twenty  thousand  persons  came  to- 
gether, to  witness  this  sight. 

The  large  vessel,  called  the  Superior,  which  was  sent 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  161 

Mos<»  Island. 

over  in  1829,  did  not  proceed  in  its  voyage  of  destruction 
in  such  gallant  style.  She  lodged  on  the  rocks,  and  re- 
mained there  for  several  daye,  and  went  over  unobserved, 
except  by  two  or  three  persons.  In  Ihis  instance  no  ani- 
mals were  put  on  board. 


MOSS    ISLAM). 


'•  In  bcuuiifiil  wildiicss  il  \\  hirls  away, 
Wasting  its  weallh  in  feuUjery  sprny." 

The  walk  round  the  island  passes  ncnr  to  the  beautiful 
ptream  of  water,  which  runs  on  the  north  side  of  Moss 
island.  This  stream  is  overhung  and  enshrouded  with 
trees  and  evergreen  ehrubs,  whose  leaves  dip  in  the  sil- 
vered water  as  it  glides  along.  In  its  course,  there  is  a 
most  lovely  water-fall,  in  miniature,  and  which  Francis 
Abbott  used  as  his  shower  bath.  The  adjacent  spot  is 
called  Mors  island,  on  account  of  the  mospy  and  velvet- 
like appearance  of  its  surface.  On  this  island,  Abbott 
wished  to  build  a  rustic  cottage.  As  he  described  it,  it 
was  to  be  of  rough  materials,  with  latticed  windows,  and 
to  be  covered  with  moss  and  evergreen  creeping  vines. 
To  the  island  he  proposed  to  have  a  bridge,  in  unison 
with  the  cottage,  with  a  draw  attached  to  it,  that,  when 
he  desired  to  be  alone,  ho  might  be  secure  from  all  in- 
14 


162  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

The  Hermitage. 


trusion,  and  he  himself  the  maeler  of  a  small  and  solitary 
domain: 

*'  Recluse,  and  hid  from  every  eye, 
Save  that  of  smiling  heaven." 

Such  additions  would  have  been  quite  an  attraction, 
and  the  hermit,  himself,  a  great  curiosity.  He  appears 
to  have  been  just  the  kind  of  man  required  to  animate 
these  wild  romantic  scenes.  On  the  subject,  he  observ- 
ed, "  On  some  of  the  great  estates  in  England,  where 
the  proprietors  seek  to  give  a  romantic  interest  to  their 
possessions,  a  forest  or  some  retired  glen  is  chosen,  where 
a  hermitage  is  erected,  and  a  man  hired  to  play  the  her- 
mit. When  the  owner  passes  over  his  estate,  with  his 
friends,  the  hermit,  with  his  flowing  beard,  and  dressed 
in  antique  costume,  receives  them  at  the  hermitage." 
He  would  conclude,  by  saying,  **  1  desire  to  live  alone;  I 
voluntarily  wish  to  retire  from  the  world.  It  suits  me 
not  to  mingle  with  mankind." 

The  islands  lying  beyond  Moss  island,  are  not  accessi- 
ble, excepting  in  some  severe  winters,  when  the  ice  and 
snow  is  driven  around  them,  and  dammed  the  water  off; 
at  such  times  they  have  been  visited  by  a  few  persons. 
The  httle  island  which  lies  between  this  and  the  Canada 
shore,  and  which  just  rises  above  the  water,  is  called  Gull 
island,  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  the  resort  of 
great  numbers  of  birds,  of  that  species.  There  they  live 
secure  and  unmolested  by  man. 

Some  years  ago,  a  bridge  from  the  island  to  Canada, 
to  pass  over  Gull  island,  was  a  favorite  project  with  some 
gentlemen. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  163 

Navy  liland. 

It  would  have  been  a  great  undertaking;  and,  if  com- 
pleted, a  curiosity  not  less  interesting  than  the  Falls. 

Having  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  island,  where  an  un- 
obstructed prospect  of  the  river  ia  presented,  several  ob- 
jects are  elicited  by  the  inquiries  of  travellers.  They  are 
comprised  in  the  notices  which  follow. 


NAVY    ISLAND. 


'•Tlicre  is  a  pleasure  in  the  patblesd  woods  ; 
Tlicrc  is  a  rapture  on  tlie  lonely  shore  -, 
There  is  society,  where  none  intrudes. 
liy  the  deep  wave,  and  music  in  its  ro:ir  : 
I  love  not  man  the  le^s,  but  nature  more." 

This  ieland  contains  three  hundred  acres  of  land.  It 
belongs  to  Canada,  the  main  channel  running  between 
that  and  the  American  shore.  Opposite  to  Navy  island, 
is  Street's  point,  in  Canada.  It  was  once  a  navy  yard 
of  the  British,  and  late  the  residence  of  Captain  Usher, 
one  of  the  persons  concerned  in  the  Caroline  affair,  and 
who  was  assassinated  in  December,  18.38. 


THE    LOV/    FAMILY. 

"  Ah  1  ne\  or  shall  the  land  forfret 

How  guslieJ  the  life-blood  of  her  brave  — 
Gushed,  warm  with  hope  and  valor  yet, 
Upon  the  soil  they  fought  to  save." 

Prior  to  the  last  war,  and  before  Navy  island  was  ad- 
judged to  belong  to  the  British,  Mr.  John  Low  made  some 


164  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Lieutenant  Low. 

improvements,  and  built  a  house  on  the  eastern  end.  He 
resided  there  with  his  family.  They  were  Americans  by 
birth  and  in  principle,  and  of  very  respectable  character 
and  connexions.  When  the  war  broke  out,  they  left  the 
island,  and  took  up  their  residence  on  the  mountain,  near 
Bloody  Run.  At  the  battle  of  Queenston,  so  unfortunate 
to  the  American  arms,  old  Mr.  Low  promptly  volunteered 
as  one  of  the  pilots,  to  conduct  the  boats.  While  thus 
employed,  he  was  fatally  wounded,  and  died  soon  after. 

His  son,  John,  at  the  time  of  his  father's  death,  had 
just  engaged  in  the  practice  of  the  lavy,  in  the  county  of 
Niagara;  but  gave  Hp  the  prospect  of  a  lucrative  practice 
to  serve  his  country,  and  accepted  a  heutenancy  in  the 
army. 

In  the  disastrous  clo&e  of  the  year  1813,  when  the 
destruction  of  all  the  villages  and  settlements  on  the  Ni- 
agara river  was  eifected  by  the  combined  forces  of  the 
English  and  Indians,  Lieut.  Low  was  at  old  Fort  Schlos- 
ler,  of  which,  however,  there  was  then,  and  has  been 
since,  nothing  remaining  but  the  name.  The  British 
force  that  scoured  along  the  border,  was  overwhelming. 
The  lieutenant,  with  a  few  men,  waited  the  approach  of 
the  enemy,  and  made  s^ch  resistance  as  they  eould.  He 
was  shot,  and  his  men  saved  themselves  by  flights 

After  the  soldiery  had  secured  the  plunder,  they  took 
the  body  of  Low,  and  laying  it  on  a  table  in  the  hall  of 
the  ancient  Schlosser  house,  set  the  building  on  fire. 
This,  and  all  the  other  houses  in  the  place,  were  con- 
sumed. 

A  brother,  by  the  name  of  Vincent,  when  the  war  was 
over,  entered   the   military  academy,  at  West   Point. — 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  Ifi.") 

Williniii  Chainberg. 

About  a  year  after,  on  the  occasion  of  firing  a  salute, 
the  cannon  burst,  and  bo  was  killed.  His  monument  at 
^Vc8t  Point  records  tbc  mclancbolv  event. 


wii.i.r.vM  (h.\:mbkrs. 

"  No  voirr  rniiiO:^  to  liiin  oVr  Ihc  vast  of  wavr^. 
But  llic  wild  (lasliiiig  of  ilic  uiirclf'n'.ing  surge  " 

In  Ibe  nccounts  of  the  ofTair  of  Navy  Inland,  an  old 
woman  is  menlioncd  as  being  the  oidy  inhabitant  when 
Mackenzie's  men  took  jKissespion.  She  was  the  widow 
of  William  Chaniberp,  an  individual  among  the  early  eet- 
llers  of  the  count rj',  of  some  notoriety.  He  was  one  of 
those  persons  often  found  upon  the  frontier  of  two  na- 
tions; sometimes  living  in  one,  and  at  another  time  living 
in  the  other:  tnking  a  part  equally  with  citizens  or  subjects 
in  politicnl  afTnirp,  and  entering  with  interest  in  matters 
nnd  things  incident  to  the  nation  in  which  he  happened 
to  be.  In  Canada,  a  mn3t  loyal  subject;  in  the  United 
States,  most  vocitVrous  in  the  support  o(  the  doniinnnt 
party. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  war  with  England,  he 
residod  in  the  United  Stales,  a  few  miles  in  the  renr  of 
Fort  Niagara.  At  one  period,  he  was  suspected  of  car- 
rying on  a  correspondence  with  the  British,  but  no  evi- 
dence appeared  agninst  him.  When,  however,  the 
country  was  overrun  by  tbc  enemy,  he  remained  at  home 
14* 


166  JAUNT  TO    THE    ISLANDS. 


AViUiam  Chambers. 


uiiDaolested;  and  he  and  a  few  others,  after  that  period, 
kept  up  a  communication  with  them,  at  Fort  Niagara. 
It  was  not  generally  believed  that  his  intercourse  with 
them  was  of  a  criminal  character.  With  his  neighbors, 
he  passed  as  a  very  easy,  obhging  man,  designing  evil 
to  no  one. 

He  was  one  of  the  pioRcers  of  Niagara  county,  and  a 
genuine  leather-stocking.  He  was  among  the  first  that 
opened  the  woods  on  the  lake  shore,  at  Eighteen-mile 
Creek.  He  would  frequently  sell  out,  as  is  usual  with 
persons  of  his  description,  and  realizing  a  email  profit 
on  his  labor,  would  pay  ofl"  his  debts  and  commence 
anew. 

His  Inst  residence  was  at  Navy  island,  under  the  juris- 
diction of  Canada:  his  principal  occupation  was  huntiag, 
trapping,  and  fishing.  Grand  island,  and  the  other  id- 
ands  in  the  river,  abounded  with  game.  The  muskrat 
was  the  chief  object  of  pursuit,  being  the  most  numerous, 
and  atfording  the  best  return:  coons  were  also  plenty  — 
the  meat  was  acceptable,  and  the  skins  sold  readily.  The 
niink,  the  fox,  and  the  otter.,  afibrded  him  more  valuable 
furs.  To  these,  he  occasionally  added  the  deer,  the  bear, 
and  wolf. 

He  had  arrived  to  near  sixty  years  of  age,  when,  one 
very  stormy  night,  in  the  month  of  December,  he  and 
another  person  came  to  a  farm  house,  near  the  river, 
about  seven  miles  above  the  Falls.  They  said  they  had 
been  up  the  river,  and  had  purchased  a  barrel  of  whiskey, 
which  they  had  with  them  in  the  canoe.  They  staid  an 
hour,  and  at  nine  o'clock,  departed.  They  were  advised 
to  remain:  the  severity  of  the  storm,  the  darknnss  of  the 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  167 

Expedition  to  Navy  Island. 

night,  and  the  danger  of  the  river,  were  urged  upon 
them;  but  Chambers  was  confident  in  his  ability  to  "  get 
over  the  bay."  They  lauched  their  frail  canoe  in  the 
rapid  stream:  for  a  moment  only,  after  leaving  the  shore, 
they  were  distinguishable  —  they  were  then  lost  in  the 
driving  tempest;  and  men  or  canoe  were  never  more  heard 
oC     They  went  over  the  Falls. 


THE    EXPEDITION    TO    NAVY    ISLAND,    AND    THE 
STEAMBOAT    CAROLINE. 


"  Xiglit's  blessed  spell  hath  now 

Lulled  every  sound  of  earth  in  slumber  deep. 
The  sad  heart  iiulh  awhile  forgot  its  woe  — 

The  weary  frame  its  toil  ;  but  such  sweet  sleep 
Brings  not  its  lialiii  to  soothe  ttis  fevered  brain  aud  brow." 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  of  December,  1837, 
twenty-eight  men,  principally  Canadians,  with  Rens- 
selaer Van  Rensselaer,  and  William  Lyon  Mackenzie, 
went  on  Navy  island.  They  called  to  them  the  patriots 
of  Canada,  and  all  others  the  friends  of  that  cause.  In 
the  space  of  three  weeks,  between  three  and  four  hun- 
dred responded  to  the  call;  some  from  the  United  States, 
and  some  from  Canada.  They  brought  with  them  arms 
and  provisions.  They  staid  on  the  island  for  one  month, 
and  then,  at  their  own  choice,  left  it,  and  not  in  fear  of 
their  opponents.     Opposite  to  them,  were  assembled  five 


168  JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS. 

Steamboat  Caroline. 

tboueand  men,  consisting  of  British  regulars,  incorpo- 
rated militia,  and  a  body  of  Indians  and  Negroes,  Bat- 
teries were  erected,  and  balls  and  shells  were  at  intervals 
cast  upon  the  island.  The  islanders  were  incessantly  in 
a  state  of  danger  and  alarm;  yet  they  would,  at  times, 
provokingly  return  the  fire.  For  a  month,  a  raw,  undis- 
ciplined band  of  men,  in  the  severity  of  winter,  with  no 
shelter  but  such  as  they  then  constructed,  and  miserably 
clad,  set  at  defiance  and  laughed  at  the  overwhelming 
force,  which  lay  so  near  to  them,  that  they  frequently 
conversed  together.  Let  justice  be  done  to  them;  and, 
however,  by  contending  parties  they  may  be  differently 
esteemed,  there  must  be  awarded  to  them  the  praise  of 
being  as  enduring  and  as  brave  a  set  of  fellows  as  ever 
assembled  together.  They  left  the  island  because  the 
United  States  would  not  countenance  them,  and  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  wishes  of  American  citizens,  who  in- 
terposed to  effect  their  dispersion.  An  expression  of  one 
of  the  leaders,  before  leaving,  was — "I  fiar  not  my 
enemies,  but  my  friends." 

There  is  an  occurrence  connected  with  the  Navy  island 
affair,  painful  to  relate. 

The  steamboat  Caroline  came  from  Buffalo,  on  the  29th 
of  December,  it  was  said,  to  ply  as  a  ferry-boat  between 
Schlosser  and  Navy  island.  It  passed,  that  day,  forth 
and  back  several  times,  and  before  sun-down  was  brought 
to  at  the  wharf,  at  Schlosser,  and  moored  for  the  night. 
At  that  place,  there  was  but  one  house,  and  that  a  tavern. 
The  warlike  movements  between  the  patriots  and  British, 
had  drawn  to  the  frontier,  through  motives  of  curiosity, 
a  great  number  of  persons.     The  tavern  was  crowded  — 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  169 

Beacon  Light. 

lodgings  could  not  be  obtained — and  several  persons,  ob- 
serving the  steamboat,  sought  for  accommodalions  on 
board,  and  were  received.  In  the  middle  of  the  night, 
the  watch,  for  a  watch  on  board  steamboats  is  usually 
kept,  saw  something  advancing  on  the  water.  He  hailed, 
but  before  he  could  give  the  alarm,  a  body  of  armed  men 
rushed  on  board,  shot  at  the  sentinel,  and  all  they  met, 
crying  —  "Cut  them  down!"  "Give  no  quarters!" 
No  arms  were  on  board  of  the  boat;  no  attack  was  ex- 
pected; and  no  resistance  was  made.  Some  got  on  shore 
uninjured ;  others  were  severely  cut  and  dangerously 
wounded.  One  man  was  shot  dead  on  the  wharf,  and 
twelve  were  missing,  either  killed,  or  burnt  and  sunk  with 
the  boat. 

They  towed  the  boat  out  in  the  river,  and  set  it  on  fire; 
the  flames  burst  forth;  it  drifted  slowly,  and  its  blaze 
shone  far  and  wide  over  the  water  and  adjacent  shores. 
On  the  Canada  side,  at  a  distance  above  Chippewa,  was 
burning  a  large  light,  as  a  signal  to  those  engaged  in  the 
expedition.  In  a  short  time,  an  astounding  shout  came 
booming  over  the  water:  it  was  for  the  success  and  return 
of  those  who  had  performed  this  deed. 

The  beacon  was  extinguished.  The  Caroline  still  mo- 
ved on,  and  cast  its  lurid  light  far  and  wide,  clothing  the 
scene  in  gloom  and  horror;  and  just  below  the  i)oint  of 
iris  island,  suddenly  disappeared.  Many  of  the  wrecked 
and  charred  remains  were,  the  next  morning,  floating  in 
the  current  and  eddies  below  the  Falls. 

In  justice  to  both  sides,  it  should  be  stated,  that  the 
accounts  of  the  different  parties  connected  with  the  de- 
struction of  the  Caroline,  differ  entirely  from  each  other, 


170  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 


Grand  Island. 


as  to  the  character  of  the  vessel,  the  resistance  made  by 
the  persons  on  board,  the  number  killed,  and  in  various 
other  particulars.  These  the  author  leaves  to  be  settled 
by  the  politicians  of  the  two  nations.  The  account  which 
he  has  adopted,  is  the  one  most  strongly  impressed  upon 
the  American  public. 


OWANUNGA,    OR    GRAND    ISLAND. 

"Here,  lofty  trees,  to  ancient  song  unknown, 
The  noble  sons  of  potent  beat  and  floods." 

This  island  is  twelve  miles  long,  and  between  six  and 
seven  wide.  It  lies  mid-way  between  the  Falls  and  Lalie 
Erie,  and  contains  seventeen  thousand  acres  of  land.  It 
is  principally  covered  with  large  and  valuable  timber,  and 
the  soil  is  rich  and  productive. 

In  1816  and  '17,  a  number  of  persons,  from  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  went  on  this  island.  They  marked 
out  the  boundaries  of  their  different  possessions;  elected 
magistrates,  and  other  officers,  from  among  themselves; 
and  gave  out  that  they  were  amenable  to  neither  govern- 
ment, but  an  independent  community.  After  the  ques- 
tion of  boundary  was  settled,  the  State  of  New- York 
passed  a  law  to  drive  them  off";  but  that  was  not  effected 
till  the  severe  measure  was  resorted  to,  of  destroying  their 
houses,  which  was  done  by  the  sheriff"  and  posse  of  Erie 
county. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS.  171 

Burni  Sliip  Creek. 


Grand  island  was  selected  by  Major  Noah,  of  New- 
York,  on  which  to  build  a  city,  and  establish  a  colony  of 
Jews,  with  the  view  of  making  it  the  Ararat  or  resting 
place  of  that  dispersed  people.  There  it  was  anticipated 
that  their  government  would  be  organized,  and  thence  the 
laws  would  emanate  which  were  again  to  bring  together 
the  children  of  Israel,  and  re-establish  them  as  a  nation  of 
the  earth.  The  European  Rabbi  did  not  sanction  the 
scheme,  and  it  vanished  as  a  day-dream  of  the  learned 
and  worthy  projector. 

A  company,  from  Boston,  have  since  become  the  pro- 
prietors; and  the  great  improvements  they  have  made, 
evince  a  noble  spirit  of  enterprise. 


BLCK  HORN    ISLAND. 


At  the  north-eastern  point  of  Grand  island,  lies  Buck- 
Horn  island.  It  is  long  and  narrow,  and  contains  one 
hundred  and  fifty  acres.  It  was  occupied  first  by  David 
Mudget,  a  veteran  ofJicer  of  the  American  Revolution. 
He  made  a  small  improvement;  but,  obtaining  a  pension, 
in  1819,  he  removed. 

Burnt  Ship  Creek  lies  between  Buck-Hom  and  Grand 
island.  In  1759,  the  French,  in  preference  of  their  ves- 
sels falling  into  the  hands  of  the  British,  burnt  them  at 
this  place.  Their  remains  are  yet  observable,  and  con- 
siderable iron  has  been  obtained  from  them;  and,  not  long 


172  JAUNT    TO    THE    ISLANDS. 


Fort  Schlosser. 


since,  some  timber,  sufficiently  firm  to  work  into  walk- 
ing canes. 

Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  near  the  steamboat 
landing,  is  Comer's  island. 

Three  miles  further,  and  opposite  Cayuga  creek,  is 
Cayuga  island. 

Six  miles  further,  and  opposite  Tonawanda,  is  Tona- 
wanda  island.  Between  that  and  Lake  Erie,  there  are 
several  others,  of  greater  or  less  magnitude. 

The  next  object  to  which  the  attention  of  the  traveller 
is  directed,  is  Porter's  storehouse,  or  the  steamboat  land- 
ing. It  is  the  end  of  ship  navigation,  on  the  American 
side  of  the  Niagara,  and  is  the  proposed  point  for  the 
commencement  of  the  great  ship  canal,  around  the  Falls; 
a  work  which  the  extensive  and  populous  countries  on 
the  upper  lakes  are  requiring,  and  will  urge  forward  until 
accomplished. 

At  this  place,  the  persons  going  on  the  Navy  island 
expedition,  embarked;  and  it  is  there  that  the  steamboat 
Caroline  lay,  when  she  was  cut  out. 

Nearly  a  mile  below  the  landing,  are  the  remains  of 
old  Fort  Schlosser.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Ger- 
man, and  means  castle.  It  was  anciently  a  stockade, 
built  upon  banks  sHghtly  raised  above  the  plain.  From 
the  remains,  it  appears  that  there  were  two  fortifications 
contiguous  to  each  other,  and  of  similar  construction. 
In  a  historical  memorandum  and  map,  in  1755,  before 
the  country  was  subdued  by  the  British,  it  is  marked 
"  Store  House"  only.  The  site  is  now  a  cultivated 
field,  and   the    grounds   have   been   frequently    ploughed 


JAUNT   TO    THE    ISLANDS.  173 

Jaunt  concluded. 

The  party  move  on,  and  pass  the  house  where  Francis 
Abbott  for  some  time  resided,  and  stop  at  a  place  where 
the  earth  has  been  excavated.  Here,  several  human 
skeletons  Lave  been  dug  up.  How  they  came  there,  is 
matter  of  conjecture. 

The  enclosure,  which  is  seen  at  the  left,  is  a  garden, 
where  in  (he  season  of  flowers  and  fruits,  boquets  and 
fruits  are  kept  for  sale. 

From  every  part  of  the  upper  end  of  the  island,  a  fine 
view  is  presented  of  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  and 
intervening  rapids. 

The  residence  of  Judge  Porter  is  much  admired.  It 
stands  on  rising  ground  overlooking  the  river  and  rapids. 
The  Judge  is  a  gentleman  of  much  industry,  and  of  dia- 
tinguiehed  talents.  He  and  his  brother.  General  Porter, 
purchased  many  years  ago,  of  the  State  of  New- York,  a 
large  tract  of  land  around  the  Falls,  of  which  they  are 
etill  the  principal  proprietors. 

Gen.  Whitney's  place  is  also  seen  advantageously  from 
the  island.  He  was  among  the  first  inhabitants,  and  has 
proved  himself  a  pioneer  worthy  of  all  praise.  Enterpri- 
sing in  a  most  eminent  degree,  doing  at  all  times  all  that 
industry  and  his  means  could  afford  in  making  improve- 
ments around  the  Fails,  and  on  his  own  premises,  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors  —  first  putting  ladders  down 
the  bank,  and  then  a  stair-case;  establishing  a  ferry;  and 
in  building  bridges,  platforms,  and  many  other  conveni- 
ences. 

The    travellers  return   to   the   bridge,    and    the   jaunt 
round  the  island  is  ended. 
15 


A   JAUNT 

TO    THK 

WHIRLPOOL,  DEVIL'S  HOLE, 

TUSCARORA  L\DIAN  VILLGE, 

AND 

FORT    NIAGARA. 


THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


"  Ahl  terribly  they  rage! 
Tlic  hoarse  and  rai)id  whirlpoul's  there  I    IMy  brain 
(Jrows  wild  :  my  senses  wander,  as  I  gaze 
I'pon  the  hurrying  water." 

If  the  Falls  of  Ningara  did  not  exist,  the  Whirlpool 
would  be  the  most  distinguished  curiosity  afforded  by  the 
Niagara  river  ;  and,  in  the  estimation  of  many,  greater 
than  any  of  present  notoriety  in  our  country.  Every 
one,  brought  up  in  or  near  the  city  of  New  York,  must 
be  familiar  with  the  far-famed  and  much  dreaded  strait 
called  Hurl-Gate,  formerly  HelUGate.  The  horrors  of 
Ihat  place  are  well  known  to  all  youthful  imaginations, 
and  the  dread  of  the    "frying-pan  and  pot"   can   hardly 


178  JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Preliminary  notice. 

be  eradicated  by  more  mature  observation.  But  pass 
once  from  the  East  river  to  the  wild  and  rushing  Whirl- 
pool of  Niagara,  and  the  imaginary  terrors  of  Hurl- 
Gate  will  pass  away  :  on  your  return,  lbs  strait  will 
appear  placid,  or  only  seem  agitated  as  with  a  summer's 
breeze. 

Even  the  great  Maelstrom  Whirlpool,  of  Norway,  is 
not  more  dangerous  than  that  of  Niagara  ;  none  have 
passed  the  vortex  of  either,  nor  fathomed  their  depths. 
For  the  satisfaction  of  those  who  visit  the  Whirlpool  of 
Niagara,  a  short  description  of  the  Maelstrom  is  inserted 
in  this  work.  It  is  from  the  pen  of  an  American  gentle- 
man, who  visited  the  place  he  describee.  If  travellers  to 
the  American  Whirlpool  would  v.ish  to  experience  all  the 
sensations  of  danger  and  peril  which  come  over  those 
who  passed  the  disk  of  the  Maelstrom,  they  have  but 
to  launch  a  boat  on  the  Niagara,  and.  attempt  an  excur- 
sion, for  examining  more  closely  the  whirling  waters. 
In  so  doing,  they  will  truly  peril  their  lives,  and  feel 
sensations  of  terror,  to  their  hearts  content ;  or  the 
waves  of  Niagara  will  make  buoyant  their  bodies,  and 
infuse  courage,  more  than  natural,  in  the  hearts  of  those 
who  ride  over  them. 


OLD    PORTAGE    ROAD. 

"  Bear  me,  Oh  bear  me  to  sequester'd  scenes, 
The  bow'ry  mazes,  and  surrounding  greens."' 

The  party  at  the  Falls  having  taken  seats  in  the  omni- 
bus, or  having   engaged  a  barouche  or  carriage,  are  on 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  179 

Gad  Pierce. 

their  w»y  to  the  Whirlpool.  After  riding  ono  and  a 
half  miles,  they  come  lo  the  junction  of  the  Lewistoii 
road  with  the  NinL'ara  Falls  and  Schlosser  roads.  In 
former  days,  this  road  was  the  great  thoroughfare  be- 
tween the  lower  and  upper  lakes.  When  all  the  sur- 
rounding country  was  wild  and  solitary,  unimproved, 
and  uninhabited  except  by  the  natives  of  the  forest,  this 
road  exhibited  a  scene  of  buey  life.  It  was  crowded  with 
teams,  with  animals  and  men,  and  all  was  activity  and 
animation.  Since  then,  it  has  greatly  changed ;  the 
Erie  canal  opened  a  new  communication,  and  the  Wel- 
land  cnnal,  in  Canada,  connects  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario. 
These  works  have  drawn  the  business  from  the  Portage 
road  ,  and  now,  although  the  country  through  which  it 
passes,  is  improved  and  productive,  it  is  far  more  lonely 
than  it  wod  in  former  dava. 


GAD    PIERCE,   ESQ. 

"  Who  does  the  utmost  that  lie  can. 
Does  well. — arts  iioMy  ;  angels  could  no  more." 

At  the  junction  of  the  Portage  with  the  Niagara  Falls 
road,  was,  some  years  since,  kept  the  public  house  of 
Gad  Pierce.  He  was,  in  the  time  of  the  war  with  Great 
Britain,  an  active  frontier  partizan.  When  hostilities 
commenced  between  the  two  countries,  there  was  a  very 
small  number  of  troops  on  the  American  side  of  the 
15* 


180  JAUNT   TO   THE    v^PIRLPOOL. 

A  cavalcade  —  An  attack. 

river,  and  a  single  company  only  to  garrison  Fort  Nia- 
gara. It  was  expected,  every  night,  that  the  fort  would 
be  attacked  by  the  British,  who  had  a  large  body  of  men 
at  Fort  George.  Mr.  Pierce,  aware  of  this  state  of  things, 
one  day  raised  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  far  and 
near, —  young  and  old.  The  country  was  then  thinly 
populated,  and  they  assembled  at  Lewiston  from  several 
miles  distant.  Horses  of  every  kind  were  brought  into 
requisition,  and  when  the  citizens  were  mounted,  they 
appeared  at  a  distance  like  a  formidable  troop  of  cavalry. 
Among  them,  too,  were  several  of  the  Tuscarora  Indi- 
ans, who  entered  with  spirit  into  the  manoeuvre.  In  the 
place  of  swords,  they  used  walking  canes,  sticks,  and 
ramrods.  Several  of  the  ramrods  were  of  polished  steel 
or  iron,  which  made  a  very  bright  and  flashy  appearance. 
The  cavalcade  moved  from  Lewiston,  along  the  river 
road,  in  sight  of  the  enemy,  and  entered  Fort  Niagara  : 
the  blankets  of  the  Indians  fluttering  in  the  wind,  and 
the  many-colored  and  various  habiliments  of  the  farmers  ; 
the  limping  and  over-strained  plough  horse;  the  nibbling 
gait  and  twitching  head  of  the  wild  pony  ;  with  now  and 
then  a  noble  horse  of  the  Pennsylvania  breed  ;  formed, 
to  those  who  were  near,  a  most  ludicrous  spectacle.  In 
the  fort,  they  dismounted,  and  performed  some  slight 
evolutions  in  the  most  laughable  style.  At  the  command 
to  mount,  some  of  the  Indians  executed  the  order  in 
such  a  masterly  manner,  as  to  throw  themselves  entirely 
over  their  ponies.  To  the  British,  the  imposing  appear- 
ance of  the  troops,  with  their  steel  ramrods,  which  glit- 
tered in  the  sun  like  broadswords,  had  the  desired  effect  ; 
the  contemplated  attack  was  not  made. 


JATNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  181 

3Iiiieral  Spring. 

At  the  time  of  the  general  invasion  of  the  frontier,  Mr. 
Pierce  had  his  family  conveyed  to  a  place  of  security,  but 
would  not  himself  quit  his  premises.  He,  and  three  or 
four  others,  formed  the  little  garrison,  with  which  he 
determined  to  defend  his  honse.  They  waited  for  the 
approach  of  the  enemy.  At  length,  a  company  of  British 
regulars  appeared  in  sight,  and  a  fire  was  opened  upon 
them.  They  continued  the  defence  for  some  time  ;  but, 
as  their  opponents  were  numerous,  it  was  imjwssible 
to  keep  them  at  a  distance.  A  part  advanced  upon  the 
front  of  the  house,  succeeded  in  breaking  down  the  door, 
and  fired  their  pieces  as  they  entered.  The  defenders 
efTccted  their  escape  in  an  opposite  direction,  without  an 
individual  of  their  uumber  being  wounded.  Whether 
the  attacking  party  suffered  any  lose,  was  not  known. 


.FUNERAL    sl'RIXt;. 


Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  a  small  open  building, 
painted  white,  with  Grecian  columns,  is  pointed  out  by 
the  guide,  as  one  of  the  works  of  Benjamin  Rathbun. 
It  stands  between  the  road  and  the  river,  and  is  placed 
over  a  mineral  spring.  The  spring  is  sulphurous,  and 
the  water,  it  is  said,  very  much  resembles  that  of  Har- 
rowgate,  .in  England.  In  rheumatic  and  scrofulous  and 
many  other  diseases,  it  has  been  used  to  advantage,  in 
several  cases;  and  it  only  requires  necessary  improvement; 


182  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Description  of  the  WliirlpooL 

baths,  and  other  accommodations,  and  it  will  soon  obtain 
celebrity  and  favor  with  the  public.  The  situation,  too, 
is  very  pleasant,  and  a  distant  view  of  the  Falls  is  obtained 
from  the  road  —  the  view  which  Capt.  Basil  Hall  so  much 
admired,  and  which  so  vividly,  he  says,  remained  fixed 
upon  his  mind.  After  all,  to  Rathbun  must  be  awarded 
the  credit  of  having  a  very  sound  judgment  in  making  his 
purchases.  He  selected  the  most  choice  and  valuable 
situations  ;  and,  had  it  not  been  for  his  unfortunate  aber- 
ration from  the  path  of  rectitude,  his  high  expectations, 
as  to  value,  would  have  been  realized. 


THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


"  Imaginaiion,  baffled,  strives  in  vain  ! 
The  wildest  sire^nms  that  ever  poets  feign, 
Thou  dost  transcend  I     Tiicrc  is  no  power  in  song 
To  paint  the  wonders  that  around  me  throng  I" 

This  grand  and  beautiful  scene  is  three  miles  from  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  and  lour  miles  from  the  village  of 
Lewiston. 

Standing  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Niagara,  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  above  the  river,  you  behold  at  a  dis- 
tance the  advancing  waters  ;  not  mild  and  gentle,  but 
agitated,  rushing,  and  roaring,  with  deafening  sound, 
they  hurry  on.  They  come,  in  all  their  power ;  majes- 
tic, solitary,  and  alone.  No  vessel,  or  work  of  man's 
formation,   floats  on  the  raging  torrent :  nothing  of  life 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  183 

Fraeiiieiiis  of  Vessels. 

rides  over  the  reeistlese  waves,  or  floats  unscathed  on 
the  mist-crowned  billows.  This  mii^hty  flood  is  more 
lonely  and  niyslerious  than  the  solitary  ocean.  Man 
))as6('8  with  comparative  security  over  the  vasty  deep ; 
but,  on  these  waters,  living,  he  moves  not  :  he  is  power- 
less. They  ra;:^e,  in  their  solitude,  alone, —  for  ever  j 
and  man  can  only  behold  them  with  emotions  of  awe, 
and  reverence  that  Ahnifihly  Power  "who  weighs  the 
hills  in  a  balance,  and  holrls  the  waters  of  the  ocean  in 
the  hollow  of  his  hand.  " 

Still  forward,  in  wave  after  Mave,  ruthcs  the  resist- 
less flood  ;  and  all  that  floats  therein,  is  peeled,  dis- 
menilKTod  and  crushed.  If  an  object  ie  beheld,  it  is  but 
for  a  moment  :  swiftly  it  passes  the  hollow  of  the  crested 
waves  —  rises  amid  the  feathery  mist  —  and  then,  again, 
in  an  instant,  is  jiliiDCod  below.  It  remains  for  some  time 
immersed  iVom  sight  ;  and,  if  it  again  appears,  it  will 
be  still  more  wrecked  and  broken. 

The  river  widens,  opposite  the  spectator  ;  and,  on  the 
Canada  side,  a  counter  current,  equal  to  the  main  chan- 
nel, rushes  up  the  stream.  A  large  ba.^;n  of  warring  water 
is  presented  to  the  eye  of  the  enraptured  beholder.  He 
sees  the  great  Niagara,  pouring  therein  the  accumulated 
waters  of  a  thousand  rivers  and  lakes,  and  driving,  with 
irresistable  impetuosity,  against  the  rocky  shore  of  Cana- 
da ;  and  the  counter  current,  with  equal  power,  passing 
in  an  opposite  direction.  With  absorbing  interest,  he 
observes,  between  the  contending  currents,  the  deep  en- 
gulfing eddies,  and  the  yawning  whirlpool.  There  he 
sees  huge  masses  of  timber,  dismembered  trees,  the  frag- 
ments of  vessels  and  water  craft,    the  wrecks  of  all  that 


184  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

New  view. 

has  passed  the  Falls  or  the  cataracts  of  the  river  above. 
They  go  round,  and  round  ;  they  gradually  approach  the 
centre  ;  then  they  are  drawn  in,  and  are  swallowed  up 
in  the  deep  vortex  of  the  stream.  After  a  while,  at  a 
distant  point,  they  are  propelled  upward,  and  again  re- 
new their  circuit,  and  again  are  drawn  below.  Some- 
times trees,  and  logs,  are  ejected  upwards  with  so  much 
violence,  as  to  raise  one  end  several  feet  perpendicularly 
above  the  water.  Objects  drawn  in  the  Whirlpool,  have 
been  knowu  to  remain  there  for  several  weeks. 

The  whole  expanse  of  water  lies  below  the  spectator  ; 
his  eye  eeems  to  take  in  the  whole  scene  ;  and  no  open- 
ing or  outlet  for  this  vast  and  constantly  increasing  floods 
is  observed,  Sometimes,  travellers,  who,  in  past  years, 
visited  this  place  without  a  guide,  returned  disappointed. 
They  did  not  see  the  Whirlpool ,  but,  mistaking  a  rapid 
portion  of  the  Niagara,  something  similar  in  appearance, 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  above,  their  expectations  of  the  mag- 
nitude and  interest  of  the  scene,  were  not  answered. 
Others  have  seen  the  Whirlpool,  but  not  all  about  it  ; 
not  having  turned  the  point,  to  feast  their  eyes  upon  the 
fine  and  noble  view  of  the  retreating  water,  or  not 
having  descended  the  bank,  to  the  edge  of  the  stream,  as 
it  thunders  along. 

The  traveller  should  pass  a  few  paces  to  the  north,  and 
at  the  turn  of  a  point  near  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  di- 
rect his  attention  beneath.  There  he  beholds,  what  at 
first  appears  a  small,  dark  and  heavy  stream  ;  like  some 
deep  and  narrow  mountain  torrent ;  but  unlike  the  great 
Niagara,  so  much  the  object  of  admiration.  For  some 
moments,  the  illusion  is  complete.     The  Whirlpool  and 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  185 

Eddies  and  Vortices. 

its  foaming  eddies  —  its  deep  gulfs  and  encircling  waves, 
are  all  forgot  ;  and  the  imagination  is  seized  with  rapture 
and  surprise,  at  this  unexpected  and  newly  discovered 
scene.  He  advances  —  the  reality  is  discovered  :  this  is, 
indeed,  the  Niagara,  escaping,  as  it  were,  from  its  prison 
house.  The  charm  is  not  immediately  dissolved ;  the 
great  river  is  contracted  to  a  very  span  ;  the  opposite 
shore  of  Canada  ia  within  a  stone's  throw  ;  and  the  deep 
waters  are  literally  poured  out  from  the  broad  basin  of 
the  Whirlpool. 

When  the  waters  are  at  their  usual  height,  the  visitor 
can,  where  the  river  disgorges  from  the  Whirlpool,  walk 
out  from  the  shelving  bank,  to  the  very  verge  of  the  pas- 
sing torrent.  He  can  there,  if  his  nerves  are  steady  and 
strong,  dip  his  hands  or  bathe  his  feet  in  the  deep,  green, 
impetuous  flood  that  rushes  along  ;  but,  to  do  so,  he 
must  be  firm,  or,  at  beholding  the  advancing  waters, 
hearing  their  astounding  roar,  and  glancing  at  the  fluc- 
tuant current,  the  head  may  become  dizzy,  and,  like 
other  daring  unfortunates,  he  may  fall  a  victim  to  the 
dark  and  troubled  waters  of  Niagara.  The  more  wary 
traveller  will  retreat  a  few  yards,  and  try  his  strength  to 
cast  a  stone  to  reach  the  opposite  shore  of  Canada  ;  a  feat 
which  has  been  done  by  the  sinewy  sons  of  the  farmers 
of  Niagara. 

The  Whirlpool  is  a  place  combining  many  objects  to 
interest ;  but,  at  times,  the  spectacle  is  not  alike  impo- 
sing. When  the  water  is  at  its  usual  height,  or  rather 
lower,  the  eddies  and  vortices  are  the  largest,  and  the 
scene  then  appears  to  the  beet  advantage.  After  a  storm, 
when  bridges  have  been  carried  off",  vessels  shipwrecked, 


186  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

New  discovery. 

boats  torn  away  from  their  fastening,  and  trees  and  logs 
swept  down  from  the  upper  lake,  then  all  the  terrors  of 
the  place  are  presented,  and  it  is  only  inferior  to  the  great 
cataract  of  Niagara,  The  two  scenes  are  alike  the  result 
of  the  stupendous  congregation  of  waters,  which  irre- 
sistibly passes  through  the  mountain  gorge,  from  Schlos- 
ser  to  Lewiston  ;  but  there  is  no  similitude  existing  be- 
tween them. 

Sometime  since  a  raft  of  logs  of  more  than  seventy 
pieces,  belonging  to  Gen'l  Whitney,  broke  loose  above  the 
Falls  and  were  carried  over  the  cataract ;  they  lodged  in 
the  Whirlpool  where  they  remained  careering  round  for 
several  weeks.  The  scene  was  then  very  interesting ; 
some  were  gliding  over  the  smooth  undulating  water> 
some  were  dancing  and  bounding  on  the  waves,  while 
others  were  springing  on  and  driven  forth  from  the  deep. 
They  were  in  all  positions,  striking  and  crushing  each 
other,  leaping  and  moving  round  in  a  commingling  war  of 
elemental  commotion. 

A  visitor  in  the  month  of  September  1840,  while  in- 
tensely admiring  and  studying  this  scene  of  beauty  and 
wonder  from  the  American  side  was  lead  to  the  impression, 
that  any  thing  thrown  into  the  river  at  a  particular  point, 
would  not  be  taken  down  the  stream,  strong  as  the  current 
swelled  itself  along,  but  would  be  carried  to  the  other 
side.  The  next  day  the  experiment  was  made,  and  a 
most  interesting  feature  of  the  Whirlpool  discovered ; 
showing  more  clearly  than  had  yet  been  known,  the  very 
singular  action  of  the  water.  Several  pieces  of  timber 
were  set  adrift,  one  after  another  ;  they  first  floated  up 
the  stream,  then  fell  into  the  main  channel,  in  which  they 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  187 

Suspension  Bridge. 

moved  rapidly  towards  the  Canada  shore,  to  which  they 
approached  within  a  few  rode  :  then  wheeling  they  passed 
up  the  stream  entered  the  Whirlpools  where  they  remain- 
ed driving  round  during  the  day. 

A  short  time  alter  a  tight  barrel  was  taken  to  this  point; 
a  quantity  of  gravel  was  put  in  for  ballast,  to  cause  it  to 
float  on  end  ;  a  slender  staff  with  a  flag  attached  to  it  was 
secured  to  the  other  end,  and  thus  prepared  it  was  launched 
into  the  river.  It  took  the  same  course,  passed  to  the 
Canada  shore,  entered  the  Whirlpool  ;  where  after  many 
hours  it  was  left,  still  moving  and  dancing  mund.  This 
simple,  yet  beautiful  experiment  more  than  any  thing  yet 
witnessed,  shows  the  very  extraordinary  movements  of 
this  flood  of  water.  This  experiment  can  only  be  made 
from  the  American  side. 

It  shows  almost  conclusively  that  nothing  passes  floating 
from  the  Whirlpool,  but  such  things  as  enter  it  from  the 
river  above,  continue  therein,  until  swallowed  up  in  the 
Whirlpools,  tjiey  are  curried  ofl"  in  the  depths  of  the  cur- 
rent. 

At  the  outlet  of  the  Whirlpool,  the  banks  of  the  Nia- 
gare  river  approach  each  other  nearer  than  at  any  other 
point ;  and  if  a  suspension  bridge  should  ever  be  erected 
over  the' Niagara,  nature  seems  to  have  designated  this 
spot  as  being  the  most  suitable,  as  it  is  here  the  most 
practicable. 

"  There  is  a  beautiful,  undying  diarin 
In  God's  credited  \vorli«.     The  wiiispcrinp  \vin(l<  and  waves, 
The  mountain  hrook,  tlie  creeping  grass,  flowers, 
Quivering  leaves,  even  to  the  lowliest  tbings, 
Do  lis])  their  Maker's  praise." 
16 


188  JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

The  prospect. 

Having  arrived  at  the  Lodge  the  charge  for  entering 
upon  the  grounds  is  paid  at  the  gate.  It  has  been  custom- 
ary to  drive  to  the  bank  with  a  carriage,  and  the  carriage 
is  left  in  waiting.  This  course  is  not  recommended  ;  the 
expense  is  enchanced,  the  visitors  are  hurried  to  return  by 
the  hackman,  and  have  not  time  to  look  around.  As 
there  are  now  accomodations  on  the  ground  for  visitors, 
and  ample  conveyances  by  omnibuses  and  hacks  for  their 
return  at  all  hours,  it  is  better  to  stop  at  the  bridge  on  the 
road  and  walk  out.  The  distance  is  short  and  the  walk 
will  form  a  pleasant  one  after  the  ride.  Before  coming  in 
sight  of  the  river,  the  road  enters  a  bowery  of  forest  trees, 
the  close  and  luxuriant  foliage  of  which  forms  a  cool  and 
sombrous  shade,  very  refreshing  in  the  prevailing  heats  of 
summer. 

As  the  party  advances  towards  a  summer-house  near 
the  bank  of  the  river,  proceeded  by  the  guide,  one  of  the 
party  inquires  —  "  Where  is  the  Whirlpool  ?" 

Guide. —  "  This  is  the  place.  From  this  point,  you 
perceive  the  waters  approaching,  with  great  velocity. 
They  pass  before  us,  towards  the  shore  of  Canada  ; 
then  they  devide,  part  passes  off  to  the  right,  but  a  large 
portion  is  propelled  back,  forming  the  counter  current ; 
between  that  and  the  main  channel,  are  the  eddies  and 
the  Whirlpool.  By  looking  through  this  prospect-glass, 
you  will  distinguish  more  plainly  the  logs  and  timber  ; 
which,  from  the  distance  wo  are  from  them,  to  the  naked 
eye  appear  quite  small.  With  this,  you  will  also  per- 
ceive the  magnitude  of  the  vortex  around  which  they  are 
carried.  To  view  the  Whirlpool  advantageously,  a  glass 
should  always  be  used." 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  189 


TJic  outlet. 


After  contemplating  the   prospect  for  some  lime,  with 

iiuicL  satififaction,  inquiry  is  made,  "  What  course  does 
fbe  rivtr  take,  from  this  ?" 

The  ^niide  leads  the  way,  saying,  "  We  will  advance  a 
short  distance.     Now  look  below." 

Traveller. — '*  Saint  Mary  !   what  a  scene  is  this  !" 

One  of  the  ladies. — "  How  beautiful  and  clear,  and 
yet  how  powerful  and  rapid  !  With  what  commotion  it 
bounds  away  !     Is  this  a  branch  of  the  Niagara  ? 

Guide. — "  Slill  move  a  few  steps  closer  to  the  bank, 
and  you  will  perceive  that  the  stream  below  is  truly  the 
Niagara.  Its  sudden  turn,  the  contraction  of  the  chan- 
nel, the  high  and  approaching  banks,  and  the  dark  and 
swelling  water  of  the  outlet,  strikes  every  one  with  sen- 
sations of  adnn'ralion." 

Traveller. — "Tasteless  to  the  njarvcllous  and  surjjri- 
sing  beauties  of  nature  would  he  be,  who  can  behold 
these,  her  noble  works,  without  emotion." 

"  Naliiro  here 
Wantons  in  lifr  prime,  and  plays  at  will 
Her  virgin  fancies." 

Guide. — "These  are  the  points  spoken  of,  as  being 
jiracticable  to  connect  together  by  a  suspension  bridge. 
Though  the  inhabitants  of  Lewiston  and  Queenston  have 
companies  incorporated  for  that  purpose,  and  seriously 
contemplate  to  build  a  bridge  to  join  their  villages,  yet 
the  distance  across  the  river,  at  Lewiston,  is  much  fur- 
ther than  here." 

As  nearly  all  the  travellers,  that  visit  the  Whirlpool, 
descend  the  bank,  and  consider  themselves  well  paid  for 
the  trouble,  the  party  conclude  to  go  down. 


190  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Stone  thrown  to  Canada. 

The  guide  leads  the  way,  and  with  some  labor  and 
exertion,  though  not  more  than  is  healthy  exercise,  they 
descend.  He  conducts  them  to  the  Smooth  Rock,  against 
which  dashes  the  powerful  and  resistless  current. 

"Here."  he  observes,  "a  young  man,  by  the  name 
of  Snmuel  Whitner,  of  this  township,  threw  a  stone  that 
struck  the  Canada  shore." 

Several  of  the  party,  being  disposed  to  try  their  skill 
and  strength,  make  the  same  attempt.  Whether  they 
succeed  or  not,  has  not  been  reported. 

Traveller. — "  I  think  I  have  seen  it  mentioned  in  some 
publication,  that  there  is  a  cave  near  the  Whirlpool.  If 
worthy  of  notice,  we  will  visit  it." 

The  guide  acknowledges  that  he  is  ignorant  of  its  loca- 
tion; that  he  knew  but  one  person  who  had  visited  it,  and 
his  account  was  very  vague  and  unsatisfactory;  stating 
that  he  entered  but  a  short  distance;  that  it  was  very 
dark,  and  that  he  did  not  like  to  go  in  alone.  The  same 
person  also  said,  that  he  observed,  near  the  cave,  many 
valuable  mineral  specimens;  and,  that  spot  not  having 
been  visited  by  travellers,  he  thought  more  minerals  might 
be  picked  up,  than  at  any  other  place.  The  cave,  he 
said,  was  about  thirty  rods  up  the  rivor  from  the  path  that 
descends  the  bank.  The  guide  expresses  a  desire  to  lead 
the  party  in  that  direction,  and  explore  it  out;  but,  the 
route  appearing  very  difficult,  the  offer  is  declined. 

The  almost  impenetrability  of  the  trees  and  bushes, 
the  rocks  hanging  dangerously  above,  and  the  necessity 
of  cHmbing  and  again  descending  many  steep  and  forbid- 
ding passes,  have,  as  yet,  prevented  a  full  exploration  of 
this  place;  but  it  will  be  different  for  the  future.     The 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  191 


Improvements  proposed. 


descent  down  the  bank  will  be  made  convenient,  the  whole 
vicinity  will  be  examined,  and  many  obstacles  will  be  re- 
moved that  impede  the  rambles  of  visitors  around  this 
spot;  and  without  effecting  the  wild  romantic  aspect  of 
the  place,  make  every  point  accessible  that  visitors  may 
desire  to  view.  Heretofore  no  person  has  resided  near 
the  Whirlpool,  and  there  was  no  accommodation  or  pro- 
vision for  the  comfort  of  travellers.  It  will  now  be  made 
more  agreeable  for  a  protracted  stay  to  those  who  desire 
to  larry. 

One  of  the  party  expresses  some  suqirise,  that  Ibis 
water  power  has  not  been  brought  into  use;  "  the  rapid?, 
though  larger,  are  similar  to  those  above  the  Falls,  and 
they  may  be  controlled  in  the  same  way." 

Guide. — "  The  hill,  or  high  bank  appears  to  be  the 
only  obfelacic." 

Traveller. — "  That,  now,  is  of  but  little  consequence, 
as  power  may  be  weed  at  almost  any  distance,  by  means 
of  the  elasticity  of  the  air,  confined  and  conveyed  in  cast 
iron  pipes." 

Some  of  the  party  seek  for  new  and  strange  plants, 
for  this  place,  like  Iris  island,  produces  many  varieties, 
not  readily  found  in  other  parts  of  the  countrj'. 

"  And  miilst  the  craj^gy  piles  and  boulders,  here, 
"NVild  plants  and  trees,  with  verdant  tops,  appear  ; 
T'ncominoii  herbs,  peculiar  to  the  place. 
Peep  throufrh  the  fissures,  and  the  prospect  grace. 
Here  the  sage  botanist  delights  to  stay. 
And  in  deep  study  wile  the  time  away." 

Having  spent  some  time  below  the  bank,  in  rambling 
over  the  rocks,  and  engraving  their  names  upon  the  rocks 
16* 


192  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Return  to  the  upper  bank. 

or  trees,  they  retrace  their  steps.  Arriving  at  the  top  of 
the  hill,  they  proceed  along  the  upper  bank  for  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  or  more.  Here  are  presented  some  noble  views 
of  the  formidable  river,  driving  furiously  along. 

"  Thou  seest  not  all:  but  piece-meal  thou  must  break 
To  separate  contemplation,  the  great  whole  ; 
And,  as  the  ocean  many  bajs  will  make, 
That  ask  the  eye,  so,  here,  condense  thy  soul 
To  more  immediate  objects,  and  control 
Thy  thoughts,  until  thy  mind  hath  got  by  heart, 
Its  eloquent  proportions,  and  unroll 
Its  mighty  graduations,  part  by  part. 
The  glory  which,  at  once  upon  thee  did  not  dart." 

No  scenes  more  enlarge  themselves  on  the  mind,  the 
more  they  are  viewed,  than  those  around  the  Whirlpool. 
Who  casts  but  a  furtive  glance  and  then  hastens  away, 
enjoys  but  little,  and  drinks  not  of  the  cup  of  inspiration 
which  nature  here  presents  in  all  her  greatness  and  sub- 
limity. To  those  who  live  not  distant,  who  love  the  pure 
air  and  delight  in  the  wild  woods,  the  brown  and  broken 
rocks,  deep  caverns,  and  roaring  floods,  re-visit  this  spot 
again  and  again  with  renewed  pleasure.  Many  from  afar, 
who  have  cast  but  a  slight  and  hasty  glance,  and  turned 
unsatisfied  away,  have  afterwards  regretted  their  apathy, 
and  have  longed  to  retrace  their  steps  and  to  review  the 
scene. 

The  following  inscription,   without   date,    was   lately 
found  at  that  place: 

"  Flow  on  in  the  garment  of  spray 
Which  God  hath  given  thee, 
And  fill  all  other  souls,  as  thou  hast  mine, 
With  wonder  and  praise." 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  193 

Muelslroni,  of  Norway. 

Having  traversed  the  shore  till  wearied  with  the  walk, 
they  return  to  the  fiiimmer-house,  where  they  seat  and 
rest  themselves.  While  enjoying  the  cool  retreat,  and 
the  beauty  of  the  proepect,  the  conversation  is  still  on 
the  scene  before  them.  One  enquires  —  **  Do  you  not 
suppose  it  possible  to  cross  the  river,  here,  in  safety  ?" 

The  guide  replies — "No  one  has  ever  thought  it  pos- 
sible; though  a  lifo  boat  has  been  spoken  of,  and,  if  ob- 
tained, there  is  a  person  at  the  Falls,  by  the  name  of 
Joel  R.  Robinson,  a  most  skilful  waterman,  who  would 
not  hesitate  to  attempt  it."* 

To  which,  another  gentleman  adds — "  With  such  a 
boat,  no  doubf,  it  might  be  accomplished.  While  look- 
ing at  the  Whirinool,  of  Niagara  river,  my  thoughts  have 
been  drawn  to  the  Maelstrom,  of  Norway  ;  contrasting 
the  two  together,  to  discover  if  there  is  any  resemblance 
between  them;  but  I  find  none." 

An  American  gentleman,  who  sailed  along  the  edge  of 
the  Maelstrom,  says:  "  The  waves  foamed  around  us  in 
every  form.  The  censations  I  experienced,  are  difficult 
to  describe.  Imagine  to  yourself  an  immense  circle,  mo- 
ving round,  of  a  diameter  of  one  and  a  half  miles,  the 
velocity  increasing  as  it  approximates  towards  the  centre, 
and  gradually  changing  its  dark  blue  color  to  white  — 
foaming,  tumbling,  rushing  to  the  vortex — very  much 
concave,  as  much  so  as  the  water  in  a  tunnel  when  half 
run  out;  the  noise,  too,  hissing,  roaring,  dashing  —  all 
pressing  on  the  mind  at  once  —  presented  the  most  awful, 


*This  was  publishf^d  of  Robinson  two  months  before  his  rescue 
of  Chapin  from  the  island. 


194  JAUXT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Shrubs  anri  Plants. 

grnnd,  and  solemn  sight  I  ever  beheld.  It  is  evidently  a 
Bubterranean  passage.  From  its  magnitude,  I  should  not 
doubt,  but  that  instant  destruction  vv^ould  be  the  fate  of 
a  dozen  of  our  largest  ships,  if  they  were  drawn  in  the 
same  moment." 

As  to  the  foaming,  tumbling,  dashing,  and  roaring,  our 
eyes  and  ears  must  witness  that  the  scene  before  us  can- 
not be  surpassed;  but  the  great  peculiarity  of  the  Mael- 
strom, the  tunnel-like  appearance,  is  not  found  here. 

Traveller. — "  If  the  improvements  were  made,  of 
which  the  place  is  susceptible,  it  would  make  a  beautiful 
country  retreat.  The  grounds,  west  of  the  road,  I  would 
enclose  as  a  park;  the  forest  part  should  be  cleared  of  the 
imder-growth,  leaving  here  and  there,  dense  as  it  now 
is,  a  clump  of  indigenious  ehrubs  and  plants,  as  impervious 
as  nature  has  reared  them.  The  whole  should  be  inter- 
sected with  roads  and  walks;  steps,  also,  to  descend  the 
bank;  a  bathing  and  fishing  house;  a  life-boat  on  the 
river;  and  a  suspension  bridge,  from  bank  to  bank.  The 
water  power  should  be  brought  into  use,  in  carrying  on 
mills  and  manufactories;  and  my  cottage  should  be  in  the 
midst  of  the  active  and  rural  scene." 

Guide. — "To  which  could  be  added  a  view  of  the 
Falls,  at  a  distance,  if  the  woods  on  yon  point  of  land  at 
the  south,  in  Canada,  were  cut  down.  This  place  was 
one  of  the  favorite  purchases  of  Ralhbun,  and  on  which 
he  very  justly  placed  a  high  value.  It  was  he  who  erected 
the  summer-house,  and  it  was  his  design  to  carry  into 
effect  many  of  the  improvements  which  you  have  just 
mentioned. 


JAINT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  195 

Uenjiiuiiri  Uaihbun. 


IIKNJA.-MIX    RATHBl'N. 

*•  Say,  wliy  \vc  strive  a  lu«trous  nanip  to  zain, 
An<l  live  ill  fame,  for  vain  anibitinii's  sake  ?" 

As  there  ie,  at  almost  e%ery  important  point  in  this 
vicinity,  some  work  remaining  of  the  taste  and  enter- 
prise of  this  individual,  and  eo  many  inquiries  are  made 
relative  to  him,  it  is  proper  to  give  to  the  public  such  no- 
tices as  have  come  to  the  knowledge  of  the  author.  Per- 
haps no  more  strong  delusion  ever  came  over  the  public 
mind,  as  to  any  man,  than  prevailed  in  reference  to 
Kathbun. 

In  lf*l6,  he  kept  n  public  hou.-e  at  Sherburne,  in  the 
Statt;  of  New-York.  Near  his  tavern,  he  hud  a  store  of 
goods:  he  also  issued  notes,  as  a  private  banker.  His 
store  was  fitted  up  in  a  superior  style,  and  the  interior 
of  his  public  house  was  really  a  model,  and  the  admira- 
tion of  travellers.  It  was  much  in  advance,  in  appearance 
and  in  gen(^l  accommodations,  over  the  other  public 
houses  of  the  country. 

Jle  soon  after  faikd;  and,  much  reduced,  he  sought  for 
employment  in  another  part  of  the  country.  It  is  stated, 
that  the  relations  of  Mrs.  Ralhbun  proposed  that  she 
should  return  to  them,  her  huebnnd  being  alike  baidirupt 
in  property  and  character  ;  but  ehe  declined  the  oiler, 
l)referring  to  share  adversity  as  well  as  jirospcrity  with 
the  man  of  her  choice.  He  first  came  to  Niagara  Falls, 
and  proposed  to  get  a  public  house  built  for  his  occupation 


196  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Raihbun  —  career  begun. 

there;  but,  relinquishing  that  idea,  he  succeeded  in  ob- 
taining charge  of  the  Eagle  Tavern,  at  Buffalo.  Under 
his  management,  the  repulation  of  that  house  was  soon 
raised  from  a  very  low  state,  to  one  of  the  highest  char- 
acter. He  enlarged  the  buildings,  and  erected  adjoining 
ones.  Every  thing  he  did  was  in  good  style.  As  a  land- 
lord, he  became  eminent ;  all  that  called  on  him,  were 
pleased,  and  commended  him  to  othere.  His  bar  was 
said  to  be  stocked  with  the  choicest  wines  ;  his  table  was 
abundant ;  his  beds,  the  best  evidence  of  a  well  kept 
house,  every  thing  the  weary  traveller  could  desire ;  and 
his  servants  were  the  most  attentive  and  obliging.  It 
was,  in  those  days,  a  luxury  to  be  a  guest  at  the  Eagle 
Tavern.  The  citizens  of  Buffalo  were  proud  of  such  a 
public-house,  and  such  a  landlord  ,  and  well  they  might: 
he  was  a  credit  to  the  calling  in  which  he  was  enga- 
ged, and  an  honor  to  the  place. 

While  his  hotel  was  so  well  conducted,  many  were 
his  guests  that  came  and  went  away,  without  seeing  the 
landlord,  to  know  him  ;  yet  were  delighted  with  hie 
house.  He  moved  through  it  quietly  and  unobtrusively, 
directing  about  every  thing,  and  seeing  teethe  comfort 
and  accommodation  of  his  company,  without  their  no- 
tice. 

To  Benjamin  Rathbun,  more  than  any  other  man,  the 
public,  in  every  portion  of  the  United  States,  are  mainly 
indebted,  for  raising  the  standing  and  character  of  Ameri- 
can public-houses  to  their  present  splendid  condition. 

In  1831,  he  was  employed  to  build  the  banking-house 
of  the  United  States  Branch  Bank,  at  Buffalo.  He  had 
been  rapidly   gaining    in   character  and  credit ;    and  he 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  197 

Uathbun  —  lieavy  opcruiioiis. 

now  fairly  commenced  on  the  extraordinary  career  which 
he  afterwards  run.  Having  correct  ideas,  as  to  build- 
ings and  improvements,  he  met  with  ready  encourage- 
ment from  an  enterprising  people.  First,  he  erected 
houses,  for  others,  on  contract ;  then  he  gradually  com- 
menced to  buy  lands,  and  build  for  himself.  As  he  made 
improvements  upon  the  lands,  he  purchased,  every  new 
acquisition,  as  soon  as  it  was  known  to  be  in  his  hands, 
rose  in  value,  and  carried  up  all  the  property  in  the 
neighborhood.  Hence  arose  the  great  Buffalo  specula- 
tions, which  crazed  the  head  of  every  body.  He  was 
extolled  for  his  superior  discernment  and  capability  for 
business.  It  was  said,  "His  affairs  went  like  clock- 
work." *' He  has  a  most  perfect  system."  "  i^Ie 
knows  the  value  of  property  better  than  any  man  in  Buf- 
falo." Whenever  he  fixed  his  eye  favorably  upon  any 
spot,  speclulators  were  alive  to  overbid  him,  and  obtain 
the  bargain.  The  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding,  and 
even  distant  villages,  courted  his  acquaintance,  and  so- 
licited hiiu  to  make  purchases  among  them  ;  for  the 
fact  of  his  making  a  purchase  in  any  place,  was  at  once 
the  cause  of  property  advancing  to  double  and  treble  its 
former  value.  At  length,  he  was  called  **  the  mighty 
operator,"  ''the  Girard  of  the  West";  and,  it  was 
added,  "Buffalo  will  erect  a  statue  to  his  memory." 
"  He  has  laid  his  hands  on  the  most  valuable  property 
in  the  city  and  country."  "  He  is  worth  more  than  two 
millions  of  dollars."  Some  few  had  apprehensions  that 
his  condition  would  not  turn  out  so  well,  and  hinted, 
that,  after  all,  he  might  fail.  "  No,  he  won't  fail," 
would  be   the   reply,   "  and   if  he   should,  the  people  of 

t 


198  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Rathbun  —  his  character. 

Buffalo  will  sustain  him."  The  wisest  and  soundest 
men  in  the  community  eank  beneath  him  in  the  public 
estimation;  and  even  such,  seemed  to  have  parted  with 
their  wits,  as  they  fell  in  his  train,  lauded  hie  talents, 
favored  his  mat^nificent  undertakings,  and  certified  as  to 
his  success.  He  was  flooded  with  the  offerB  of  property, 
of  bargains,  and  of  plans  and  enterprises.  No  important 
work  could  go  forward  without  his  aid,  as  one  of  the 
proprietors,  or  managers.  His  name  was  considered  as  a 
sanction — the  guarantee  of  successful  operation.  The 
multiplicity  of  his  business  became  such,  that  those  who 
called  on  him  could  have  but  so  much  of  his  time;  and 
the  highest  in  society  thought  it  no  disparagement  to  run 
round  the  city  after  him,  and  then  wait  their  turn  to  ad- 
dress him.  Now  it  was  said,  '*  He  can  do  any  thing." 
**  He  hath  the  power  of  a  sultan." 

During  his  whole  career,  he  lived  in  good,  but  not 
ostentatious  style.  Sometimes  a  party  would  be  got  up, 
of  the  fashionables  to  go  to  the  Falls;  in  that  case,  there 
would  be  a  little  more  fchow.  The  carriage,  or  sleigh, 
that  carried  his  family,  would  be  the  richest,  the  harness 
the  most  elegant,  and  the  horses  (he  most  noble;  his 
-whole  equipage  outshining  all  the  rest.  And  why  should 
it  not  have  been  so  1  All  others  sunk  themselves  to 
pigmies  by  his  side;  all  eyes  sought  for  him;  **  he  was 
the  admired  of  all."  He  was  the  theme  of  every  body's 
conversation.  Phrenologists  discovered  an  extraordinary 
contour  in  the  formation  of  his  head,  and  developments 
of  capacity  far  exceeding  any  they  had  ever  noticed  in 
other  subjects. 

On  the  day  of  the  great  sale  of  lotB,  at  Niagara  Falls, 


JAl  NT    TO    THE     WHIRLPOOL.  199 


Kathliun  —  liis  lull. 


in  Aug[uet,  1836,  in  which  hip  fate  waa  drepljr  interested, 
and  when  the  whole  etory  of  bis  frniuls  ho  knew  would 
goon  be  publiehed  to  the  world;  wbt-n  the  burthrn  miifil 
have  prcMod  upon  his  mind  like  molten  lead:  yet,  he 
was  still  active,  pointing  out  to  his  agents  what  sections 
to  Bcll,  and  mingling  with  the  purchasers.  A  gentle- 
man, of  much  knowledge  of  mankind,  to  whom  Rathbun 
was  unknown,  desired  to  have  him  pomted  out;  and, 
nfler  seeing  and  oUwrving  him  for  some  time,  he  said  — 
"  How  much  more  active  and  able  Rathbun  appears  than 

,"  mentioning    the  name  of  one    of  the   wisest 

and  most  active  men  in  the  countni'.  Such  was  the  deiu- 
Hion  that  prevailed  with  all,  as  to  the  estimation  of  Rath- 
bun's  character  and  ability.  None  felt  himself  demeaned 
by  awardint;  lo  him  puperinr  and  excellint;  powers.  It  is 
not  wondrrt'ul,  that  in  l)eholding  the  general  infatuation, 
he  ^CH^,  shonld  bec(»me  bcaide  himself. 

"  (jrrat  wita  are^  surr^  lu  madness  near  ullird, 
Aii*l  Uiiii  parliliuiiii  <io  ilicir  bounds  di\idr." 

His  own  schemes  of  anibition  were  boimdi'-ss,  and,  be- 
nides,  he  had  the  visionary  views  of  others  based  upon 
him;  and  he  becanu  the  briad  colossal  pillar  that  sustain- 
ed the  speculating  mania  of  that  time.  He  was  flatteied 
into  an  opinion  of  the  perfectncss  of  his  judgment,  and  was 
made  to  believe  that  he  was  worth  millions.  Still,  he  was 
in  want  of  the  means  to  carry  into  effect  all  his  sunny 
virions,  or  yet  there  remained  to  be  secured  some  favorite 
speculation;  and,  in  on  evil  hour,  the  cotirsc  wop  commen- 
ced that  destroyed  him. 

Nothing  can  be  said  in  justification  of  such  conduct  ; 
17 


200  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLrOOL. 

Railroads,  mills,  factories,  &c. 

yet,  it  is  charitable  to  believe,  that  it  was  his  intention 
to  cancel  every  liability.  As  he  daily  had  brought  to  his 
notice,  the  immense  value  of  his  estate,  doubtless  he 
vainly  supposed  he  could,  at  any  hour,  sweep  away  every 
vestige  of  fraud.  But  the  volcano,  on  which  he  reposed, 
burst  forth,  and  plunged  him  into  irretrievable  ruin;  leav- 
ing his  buildings,  his  improvements,  and  all  his  valuable 
acquisitions,  to  be  sacrificed,  and  to  become  the  property 
of  others. 

Rathbun  committed  no  frauds  to  lavish  the  avails  in 
debauchery,  or  in  criminal  pursuits  of  any  kind.  Very 
industrious ;  regular  in  his  habits,  and  attached  to  his 
family,  he  lived  quietly  in  his  own  domestic  circle;  devo- 
tedly beloved  by  his  wife,  a  very  amiable  woman,  and 
esteemed  by  all  his  acquaintance.  He  was  just  in  his 
dealing  with  those  who  labored  for  him,  settling  with 
them,  and  paying  them  with  great  regularity.  A  course 
60  honest  and  commendable,  m.ade  him  very  popular  with 
his  workmen.  His  great  aim  appears  to  have  been  to 
give  celebrity  to  the  name  of  Benjamin  Rathbun.  and  that 
he  sought  to  do,  by  the  erection  of  fire-proof  stores,  spa- 
cious dwelling  houses,  noble  hotels,  and  magnificent  ex- 
changes, and  to  beautify  and  adorn  the  country  by  useful 
and  elegant  improvements.  The  building  of  railroads, 
mills,  factories,  and  steamboats,  all  were  among  his  opera- 
tions, or  entered  into  his  plans.  For  accomplishing  objects 
like  these,  his  offence  was  committed,  and  not  for  any 
criminal  purposes.  He  erred  greatly,  in  not  at  once  ac- 
knowledging the  charges  against  him,  and  in  not  throwing 
himself  upon  the  mercy  of  the  court,  and  commisseration 
of  the  community.  Such  boundless  ambition,  however 
directed,  can  never  be  approved. 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  201 

Devil's  Hole. 

The  ends  of  justice  have  now  been  answered:  he  may 
again  be  an  useful  man.  Let  his  friends  ask  for  the  re- 
mission of  the  further  penalty  of  the  law.  Let  them  do 
more:  let  them,  at  some  suitable  place,  build  a  public 
house,  equal,  if  not  surpassing  any  in  the  United  States, 
and  make  Rathbun  the  landlord.  Such  an  act  would  be 
kindness  to  him, —  would  confer  a  favor  upon  those  who 
travel,  and  the  proprietors  would  soon  find  their  stock 
profitable. 

Returning  to  the  Lodge  at  the  rend  side,  the  party  take 
iheir  seats  in  their  own,  or  in  one  of  the  regular  carriages. 


BATTLE  OF  THE  DEVIL  S  HOLE. 

"  Onre  i\\\>  sou  turf,  tlie  riv'lei's  sands, 
Were  traiupled  by  a  hurrying  crowd  ; 
And  fiery  hearts,  and  armed  hands, 
Encountered  in  the  baUle  cloud," 

A  mile  from  the  Whirlpool,  the  road  runs  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  river's  bank,  where  a  deep  and  gloomy  chasm 
is  rent  or  worn  out  of  the  rock.  This  ia  called  the  Devil's 
Hole,  and  the  small  stream  which  crosses  the  road  and 
falls  in  the  chasm,  is  the  Bloody  Run. 

In  1759,  while  the  war  was  yet  raging  between  Eng- 
land and  France,  a  detachment  of  one  hundred  British 
regulars  were  conveying  a  large  supply  of  provisions,  beef 
cattle,  and  munitions  of  war,  to  Fort  Scblosser.  Indians 
were  employed  by  both  parties.  Those  in  the  interest  of  the 


202  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


The  aiiihuscade. 


French,  had  been  for  some  days  hovering  about  the  Brit- 
ish camp,  and  when  the  convoy  set  out,  they  were  on  the 
alert.  At  this  place,  they  formed  their  ambuscade,  and 
never  was  there  a  spot  more  favorable  for  such  a  manoeu- 
vre. The  road  passed  down  a  small  hill,  and  continued 
on  a  level  for  about  a  hundred  rods,  when  it  again  rose 
on  higher  ground.  The  northern  portion  of  the  road  is 
now  blighlly  varied.  The  ascents  were  united  by  an  ele- 
vated ridge  of  level  land,  which  was  covered  with  wood, 
and  commanded  the  road  for  the  whole  distance.  On 
the  right  of  the  advancing  party  was  the  high  bank  of 
the  iS^iagara  river,  and  on  the  left  the  ridge,  and  at 
each  extremity  the  two  small  hills.  The  party,  imsus- 
pecting  any  attack,  moved  forward  on  the  road;  when  the 
front  of  the  detachment  rtiiched  the  end  of  the  ravine, 
the  Indian  fusees  were  opened  upon  them  with  deadly 
cin;  then  followed  the  dread  war-whoop,  as  if  a  thousand 
wolves  were  howling  and  yelling  around  them.  Indeed, 
iheir  assailants  were  more  fierce  and  ferocious  than  the 
wild  beasts  of  the  forest. 

"  Pale  terror  march'd  amid  the  yielding  band, 
Chiird  every  heart,  unnerv'd  each  iron  hand." 

Many  of  the  soldiers  were  killed  at  the  first  discharge, 
and  the  others  were  thrown  into  hopeless  confusion.  The 
Indians  fell  like  tigers  upon  the  drivers,  tomahawked 
them  in  their  seats,  and  threw  them  under  foot.  The 
waggons  were  backed  off  the  precipice,  and  men  and 
cattle  fell  M'ilh  the  loading  in  one  dismembered  and  mu- 
tilated mass.  Some  threw  themselves  from  the  bank, 
and  fell  mangled  and  dying  on  the  rocks;  others  lodged 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  203 

Four  persons  escjipc. 

in  the  branches  of  the  trees,  where  they  remained,  disa- 
bled, until  the  affray  was  over,  when  the  savages  at  their 
leisure  despatched  them.  The  horror  of  the  scene  can 
be  but  faintly  imagined.  The  quick  report  of  the  fusees, 
the  yells  of  the  Indians,  the  bellowing  of  the  cattle,  the 
shrieks  of  the  wounded  and  dying,  mingled  with  the  mo- 
notonous roar  of  the  surges  of  the  Niagara,  which  rose 
from  below  as  in  mockery  of  the  folly,  the  strife,  and 
dying  groans  of  men.  The  brook  that  courses  over  the 
bank,  ran  red  wilii  the  blood  of  the  fclain.  A  person,  by 
the  name  of  Stedman,  escaped  by  cutting  the  bridle  of 
his  horse,  which  an  Indian  had  seized.  The  horse  tied 
with  him  up  the  small  stream,  and  came  again  to  the 
Niagara  river,  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  now  called  Gill 
creek.  The  heirs,  or  representatives  of  this  man  have 
since  set  up  a  pretended  title  to  the  tract  of  land  which 
he  encompassed  in  his  retreat,  bounding  west  on  the  Nia- 
gara river,  and  say  that  the  Indians  gave  him  the  land, 
as  "  a  medicine,"  for  his  loss  at  the  Devil's  Hole.  No 
deed  or  confirmation  of  title  being  produced  to  our  courts, 
the  claim  was  not  admitted. 

Stedman's  brother  threw  himself  down  the  bank,  and 
was  fortunately,  wjthout  injury,  caught  in  the  top  of  a 
l)ine  tree;  thence,  he  descended  to  the  water's  edge,  and 
by  swimming  in  some  places,  and  scrambling  through 
brakes  and  over  rocks  in  others,  he  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  landing,  now  Lewiston.  Two  other  persons,  only, 
made  good  their  escape:  all  of  the  others  were  destroyed. 
Until  of  late  years,  pieces  of  the  waggons,  and  other  evi- 
dences of  this  bloody  discomfiture,  existed;  but  they  have 
now  entirely  mouldered  away. 
17* 


204  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

The  Indian  Village. 

At  Colt's  tavern,  four  miles  from  the  Falls,  a  road 
strikes  off  to  the  east,  which  leads  to  the  Indian  village. 
As  the  travellers  turn  to  the  right,  the  guide  points  to 
the  next  rising  ground  in  sight,  on  the  Lewiston  road, 
and  observes — "there  resided  an  honest  old  Dutch  far- 
mer, by  the  name  of  March.  When  the  British  and  In- 
dians made  their  destructive  incursion  on  the  frontier, 
information  did  not  reach  him  in  season  to  make  his 
escape.  While  he  was  harnessing  his  horses,  a  party  of 
Indians  rushed  upon  him,  and  murdered  him  on  the 
spot.  While  the  bloody  deed  was  going  on,  in  front  of 
the  house,  the  family  effected  their  escape  to  the  woods. 
A  scouting  party  of  Americans,  some  days  afterwards, 
passing  that  way,  found  his  own  hogs  eating  his  body. 
Such  are  the  abhorrent  scenes  which  war  presents. 


TUSCARORA    INDIANS. 

"  That  cliff,  nietliinks,  the  Indian  cry 
Peals  from  its  summit,  shrill  and  high." 

They  are  a  part  of  the  tribe  of  Tuscaroras,  formerly 
inhabiting  North  Carolina.  They  came  to  this  country 
about  the  year  1712,  and  joined  the  five  nations.  The 
whole  formed  the  warlike  confederacy  called  the  Six  Na- 
tions. They  live  on  a  tract  of  land  ceded  to  them  by  the 
Senecas,  of  one  by  three  miles,  and  also  four  thousand 
three  hundred  and  twenty-eight  acres  deeded  to  them  by 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  205 

Little  Chief. 

the  Holland  Land  Company.  The  United  States,  in 
1837,  purchased  out  their  interest,  and  they  are  to  be  re- 
moved to  the  west.  They  number  only,  at  this  time, 
two  hundred  and  eighty-three  individuals.  Their  present 
principal  chief  is  Thomas  Chew,  the  son  of  an  English- 
man. 

Our  party  having  arrived  at  the  village,  look  into  the 
wigwams;  make  such  observations,  and  take  such  notes 
of  the  customs  and  manners  of  the  inhabitants,  as  a  short 
and  hasty  visit  affords;  purchase  some  articles  of  Indian 
manufacture;  or,  perhaps,  seek  an  introduction  to  the  ve- 
nerable chief  Sacarisea,  who  was  a  commissioned  officer 
in  the  American  army,  in  the  revolutionary  war.  If  it 
be  Sunday,  the  travellers  attend  the  place  of  public  wor- 
fchip,  where,  besides  the  interest  afTordcd  by  the  sermon 
of  the  missionary,  they  will  hear  it  translated  to  the  na- 
tives, in  their  peculiar  guttural  language  ;  and  also  hear 
singing,  of  the  most  superior  order.  The  Indians  are, 
justly,  much  extolled  for  their  fine  voices.  They  are 
very  fond  both  of  vocal  and  instnimental  music. 

Among  their  distinguished  men,  there  was  one,  some 
time  since,  by  the  name  of 


LITTLE    CHIEF. 

Immediately  after  the  declaration  of  war  by  our  gov- 
ernment, in  181*2,  about  a  dozen  of  the  sachems  and 
principal  men  of  the  village,  with  much  formality,  called 
on  the  commanding  officer  at  Fort  Niagara.     The  officers 


206  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Indian  .Speech. 

of  the  fort  assembled  at  the  commandant's  quarters,  and 
being  seated,  Little  Chief  thus  expressed  himself,  thro' 
John  Mountpleasant,  a  noble  Indian: 

*' He  6ay0,"  spoke  the  interpreter,  "that  Captain 
Bruff  was  the  first  American  that  took  possession  of  this 
fort.  He  received  it  peaceably  from  the  hands  of  the 
British.  He  and  his  troops  resided  here  in  peace;  there 
was  no  war,  no  trouble.  He  went  away:  he  left  the  fort 
strong  as  he  got  it.     He  did  well." 

"He  says," — "Next  came  Major  Revardi,  and  still 
there  was  peace.  These  fortifications  remained  firm  and 
strong:  there  were  no  enemies  to  approach  them.  He 
went  away:  he  left  all  things  as  he  found  them.  He  did 
well." 

"He  says," — "Then  came  Captain  Wiley:  yet  there 
was  peace.  Friends  passed  from  one  side  of  the  river  to 
the  other:  the  warriors  rested  on  their  arms  in  security, 
and  there  were  none  to  call  them  to  battle.  He  went 
away.     He,  too,  left  the  fort  strong.     He  did  well." 

"He  says," — "After  him,  came  Major  Porter  :  yet 
there  was  peace.  He  also  went  away.  He  left  all  things 
as  he  found  them.     He  did  well." 

"He  says,"— "  These  all  did  well.  You  came  next. 
You  found  the  fort  strong.  You  have  been  here  in  peace. 
You,  too,  have  done  well.  Now,  war  has  come.  This 
fort  is  of  great  importance  to  the  United  States.  Those 
that  came  before  you,  did  well  in  peace.  You  must  do 
well  in  war." 

"  He  says,"—"  We  have  come  to  tell  you,  that  we  are 
the  friends  of  the  United  States:  we  are  as  one  people. 
We  wish  to  offer  our  services  to  you:  our  warriors  will 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  207 

An  Indian  Adventure. 

do  all  they  can  :  they  hold  themselves  ready  to  fight 
for  this  country.  When  you  need  us,  call,  and  we  will 
come." 

The  commanding  officer  made  a  suitable  reply,  stating 
that  if  their  services  should  be  required  for  defensive 
purposes,  the  government  of  the  United  States  would 
inform  them.  After  Great  Britain  had  set  the  example 
of  employing  Indiana,  the  Tuscaroras  were  called  upon, 
and  no  Americans  behaved  better  than  they  did,  during 
(he  remainder  of  the  war. 

The  irnvellers  leave  the  village,  and  descend  the  moun- 
tain towards  Lewioton. 


AN    INDIAN     ADVENTURE. 
"In  voice,  mien,  gesture,  savage  nature  spoke." 

Just  below  the  mountain,  and  to  the  right  of  the  road 
which  descends  from  the  Tuscarora  village,  lives  Mr. 
Sparrow  Sage.  He  had,  on  the  19th  of  December,  1813, 
in  the  distressing  invasion  of  this  frontier,  been  driven 
from  his  home.  For  the  purpose  of  securing  his  harvest, 
he,  the  summer  after,  returned  with  his  wife,  to  their 
exposed  and  solitary  dwelling.  One  day,  when  he  was 
at  work  at  some  distance  in  the  fields,  an  Indian,  attached 
to  the  British  cause,  entered  the  house.  He  demanded 
something  to  eat,  speaking  in  broken  English.  Mrs.  S. 
was  entirely  alone,  and  immediately  obeyed   his  bidding, 


208  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

An  abduelion  —  The  rescue. 

being  in  hopes  that  he  would,  after  eating,  go  away. 
After  he  had  finished  his  repast,  he  told  her  that  he  lived 
at  Grand  River,  in  Canada,  and  that  he  had  come  after 
her  to  go  with  him,  and  she  must  be  his  squaw.  She 
replied  to  him,  that  could  not  be,  for  she  had  a  husband. 
**  No,  no,"  he  angrily  said,  **  You  very  pretty — you 
must  be  my  squaw  —  you  shall  go."  In  vain  she  told 
him  that  her  husband  and  others  w^ere  near  by;  that  he 
had  better  go  away,  or  he  might  get  killed.  The  Indian 
then  took  down  Mr.  S's  gun,  and  finding  it  not  loaded, 
put  it  up  again.  Afterwards  he  ransacked  the  house, 
commandmg  Mrs.  S.  not  to  leave  his  sight,  and  keeping 
his  eye  upon  her.  He  first  appropriated  to  himself  all 
that  he  could  carry;  then,  seizing  her  forcibly  by  the  arm, 
dragged  her  out  of  the  back  door,  and  thence  towards  the 
woods,  in  the  direction  of  Fort  Niagara,  then  in  the  oc- 
cupation of  the  British.  The  husband  heard  the  screams 
of  his  wife,  and  hurrying  towards  the  house,  seized  an  axe 
which  was  lying  at  the  door,  and  followed  in  pursuit. 
He  came  up  to  them  at  the  fence,  on  the  border  of  the 
forest.  Not  letting  go  his  hold,  the  savage  fired  at  Mr.  S. 
as  he  ran  towards  them.  His  ball  did  not  take  effect; 
and,  just  as  he  was  raising  his  victim  to  throw  her  over 
the  fence,  he  received  a  blow  from  the  axe,  which  broke 
his  rifle,  and  made  him  let  go  of  Mrs.  S.  He  then,  con- 
sulting his  own  safety,  leaped  over  the  fence;  but,  in  eo 
doing,  he  received  another  blow  from  the  axe,  which  made 
him  fill  the  forest  with  his  yells,  and  he  made  off  with  all 
the  speed  he  could,  into  the  thick  woods.  Mr.  S.  did 
not  think  porper  to  pursue,  but,  returning  with  his  wife, 
they  immediately  left  their  dangerous  habitation  for  a 
place  of  greater  security. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  209 

Another  adventure. 

Mr.  William  Molyneux,  the  father  of  Mrs.  S.  had, 
the  winter  before,  occupied  the  same  residence.  About 
a  month  after  he  and  his  family  had  been  obliged  to  flee 
from  their  homes,  he  returned  very  cautiously.  He  en- 
tered his  house,  and  found  two  Indians  lying  dead  on  the 
floor.  A  party  of  American  militia-men  had  come  upon 
them  unexpectedly,  while  they  were  carousing  upon  the 
good  fare  and  liquors  which  the  occupants  had  left.  They 
were,  no  doubt,  abroad  for  murder  and  destruction,  and 
met  the  fate  ^^hich  they  intended  for  others.  Mr.  M. 
dragged  their  bodies  from  Ihe  house,  and  as  he  had  no  aid 
or  time  to  bury  them,  he  formed  round  them  a  large  pile 
t>f  logs  and  rails,  and,  setting  Are  to  it,  they  were  consum- 
ed. The  British  Indians  considered  it  quite  an  aftVont, 
and  threatened  vengeance.  It  was  an  empty  threat,  for 
they  had  already  done  him  all  the  mischief  they  could. 


AN    ESCAPE    FROM    INDIANS. 

"  Though  few  the  numbers  — theirs  the  strife, 
That  neither  spares  nor  seeks  for  life." 

Another  incident,  which  occurred  on  the  memorable 
invasion  before  alluded  to,  took  place  on  the  Ridge  Road, 
a  few  miles  east  of  Mr.  Molyneux's  public-house.  The 
roads  had  been  deeply  broken  up,  and  were  frozen  in 
that  state,  and  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  with  wagons  ; 
a  very  little  snow  enabled  the  inhabitants  slowly  to  move 
along  with  sleighs.     They  were  fleeing  from  a  relentless 


210  JAUXT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Death  of  an  Indian. 

and  cruel  enemy.  The  rear  of  the  fugitives  was  brought 
up  with  a  two -horse  sleigh,  driven  by  a  young  man,  who 
was  walking  by  the  side  of  his  horses.  In  the  sleigh  lay 
his  brother,  who,  one  week  before,  had  had  his  leg  am- 
putated just  below  the  thigh.  His  condition  was  very 
feeble,  and  to  proceed  rapidly,  rough  as  the  roads  then 
were,  would  have  been  death  to  him.  There  was  no 
alternative,  but  to  continue  the  moderate  pace  at  which 
they  were  moving.  The  driver  was  armed  with  a  rifle. 
At  that,  and  distrustfully  behind  him,  he  alternately 
looked  ;  for  he  knew  the  foe  was  near  at  hand.  At 
length,  the  war-hoop,  with  its  accompanying  yells, 
broke  upon  their  ears.  The  disabled  brother  besought 
the  other  to  leave  him  to  his  fate,  and  by  flight  to  save 
his  own  life.  "  No,"  he  replied,  *'  if  we  are  to  die, 
we  will  perish  together."  The  party  of  Indians  that 
pursued  them  were  in  full  sight  ;  and  one,  far  in  advance 
of  the  others,  called  to  them  to  stop,  making  threatening 
gestures,  and  raising  his  rifle.  With  the  same  slow 
pace,  the  horses  proceeded  ;  the  driver,  coolly  collecting 
liimself  for  the  conflict,  in  which  there  were  such  fearful 
odds  against  him.  The  Indian  sprang  forward,  and  was 
within  a  few  paces  of  the  sleigh,  when  the  young  man, 
suddenly  turning  himself,  quickly  raised  his  rifle,  and 
firing,  fatally  wounded  his  pursuer.  The  savage  plunged 
forward,  fell,  and  his  body  rolled  out  of  the  road.  A 
yell  of  vengeance,  from  the  band  in  the  rear,  came  like 
the  knell  of  death  upon  the  brothers.  At  that  moment, 
a  friendly  party  of  the  Tuscaroras  were  seen  descending 
the  adjacent  mountain  ;  and  the  Well-directed  fire  they 
opened  on  the  British  Indians,  obliged  them  precipitately 


JAUNT   TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  211 

Lewiston. 

to  retire.  The  driver  of  the  bleigh  was  tho  Hon.  Bates 
Cooke,  and  the  i.iVQlid  was  his  brother,  Lalhrop  Cooke, 
Esq.  Mr.  B.  Cooke,  at  the  battle  of  Queenston,  was 
pilot  of  the  boat  that  led  the  van  on  that  occasion  ;  the 
boat  was  brought  to  the  exact  point  designated,  and  the 
men,  though  tired  upon  by  the  sentinel  who  gave  the 
alarm,  were  landed  without  loss. 


TIIK    VILLACE    OF    LEWISTON. 

"  And  calm  aiul  pe^'n'ofnl  fell  the  rKpiiJ  ruy 
Mid  rural  scenery  and  woodland  spray  ; 
Hut  ere  that  hcam  another  day  had  crowa'd, 
A  Rhasily  ruin  mark'd  the  charm  around; 
The  srreen  grass  wav'd  along  the  verdent  |>lain, 
Another  day  —  'iwas  crush'd  beneath  the  slain  ; 
The  streamlet  sparkled  lauthe  eve  before, 
Another  day  — 'twas  red  with  clotted  gore." 

The  party  api)roach  Lewiston.  Tho  summer  after 
the  village  was  burnt,  the  prospect  all  around  was  like 
one  extensive  meadow.  Nearly  all  the  fences  in  the 
fields  had  been  destroyed  by  our  own  troops,  at  difierent 
timep,  while  encamped  there,  or  passing  through  ;  but, 
at  the  time  it  was  burnt  by  the  British,  the  destruction 
was  general :  nothing  was  left  that  would  burn  ;  and 
the  life  of  no  creature  was  spared  that  could  be  destroyed. 
Not  only  the  fields,  but  the  yards  and  streets  were 
covered  with  high,  grass,  and  the  prospect  was  lonely  and 
18 


212  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 


Tliomas  Hustler. 


melancholy  in  the  extreme  —  not  a  living  creature  was 
to  be  seen.  A  spirit  of  wanton  cruelty  had  caused  the 
enemy  to  destroy  all  that  they  could  not  carry  away. 
Little  swarms  of  small  yellow  butterflies,  flitting  about 
above  the  tall  grass,  marked  the  spot  where  the  carcass 
of  some  creature  lay,  where  it  had  been  shot  down  or 
pcriehed.  What  scene  can  be  more  gloomy,  than  a  coun- 
try depopulated,  and  laid  waste  by  the  ravages  of  war. 

As  you  enter  the  village,  directly  fronting  the  road 
from  the  Falls,  formerlly  lived  sergeant  Thomas  Hustler, 
one  of  Gen.  Vv^iyne's  old  veternns.  He  carried  about, 
for  many  years,  a  ball  in  his  thigh,  which  he  received 
in  battle.  He  kept  a  public-house,  one  of  the  best  of 
those  times  ;  and  the  grateful  beverage  of  mother  Hust- 
ler's good  coflee,  is  yet  remembered  by  many  an  old 
traveller  ;  and  many  a  sleigh-ride,  and  jaunt  of  pleasure, 
was  made  by  the  officers  of  Fort  Niagara,  to  the  public- 
house  of  the  old  sergeant. 

A  little  further  in  the  village,  lived  a  respectable  phy- 
sician, by  the  name  of  Alvord.  When  the  Indians  en- 
tered Lewiston,  carrying  before  them  terror  and  death, 
he  was  preparing  to  fly  from  danger,  but  he  was  too  late  ; 
as  he  was  mounting  his  horse,  they  shot  him  down  and 
scalped  him. 

Lewiston,  was,  in  180.5,  named  after  Governor  Lewis, 
of  the  state  of  New  York  ;  it  was  burnt  in  1813,  in  1815 
the  inhabitants  returned  and  it  is  now  a  beautiful  and 
flourishing  village. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  213 

Five  Mile  Meadow. 


FIVE    .MILE    MEADOW. 

"  Come,  tread  witli  inc  yon  chanceful  dells, 
Where  beauty  iiiio  ;:raii(lour  suells." 

This  beautiful  eiluation,  celebrated  in  the  early  days  of 
the  country,  as  being  one  of  the  first  cultivated  spots  of 
the  Wilderness,  is  between  one  and  two  miles  below  Lewis- 
ton,  and  live  miles  from  the  Fort.  Hence  its  name.  It 
was  the  residence  and  property  of  Captain  Nathaniel 
Leonard,  formerly  of  the  United  States  army. 

At  the  dose  of  the  last  war,  he  retired  to  this  place, 
esteemed  as  the  most  attractive  and  pleasant  of  any  on 
the  river.  Here,  in  the  mindst  of  a  beloved  family,  in  the 
improvement  and  cultivation  of  his  farm,  and  in  the 
confidence  of  his  many  friends  and  neighbors,  he  lived 
happily  fur  many  years,  and  truly  verified  the  adage,  that 

"  Tiie  post  of  honor  is  a  private  station." 

Youngatown  is  a  village,  also,  lying  by  the  side  of  the 
Niagara  river.  It  is  one  mile  from  Fort  Niagara,  and 
old  Fort  George,  in  Canada,  is  directly  opposite.  It 
derives  its  name  from  John  Young,  formerly  an  American 
merchant,  in  Canada.  He  was  the  principal  proprietor. 
Here  is  kept  the  only  ferry  to  Canada,  between  Lewis- 
ton  and  Lake  Ontario.  A  horse  boat  is  maintained.  In 
summer  time,  it  is  very  pleasant  crossing  ;  but,  in  win- 
ter, if  the  ice  runs,  there  is  danger. 


214  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Fort  .\ia?a»;i. 


FORT    NIAGARA. 

«'  Hoarse  barked  the  wolf;  the  vulture  screamed  afar  ; 
The  angel  pity  shunned  tlie  walks  of  war." 

This  fortress  is  in  latitude  43  deg.  14  sec.  N.  In  1679, 
a  small  spot  was  enclosed  by  pallisadcs,  by  M.  De  Salle, 
an  officer  in  the  service  of  France.  In  1725,  the  Fort 
was  built.  In  1759,  it  was  taken  by  the  British,  under 
Sir  William  Johnson.  The  capture  has  been  ascribed  to 
treachery,  though  there  is  not  known  to  be  any  existing 
authority  to  prove  the  charge.  In  1796,  it  was  surren- 
dered to  the  United  Stales.  On  the  19lh  December, 
1813,  it  was  again  taken  by  the  British,  by  surpnce  ; 
and  in  March,  1815,  again  surrendered  to  the  Ameri- 
cans. This  old  fort  is  as  much  noted  for  enormity  and 
crime,  as  for  any  good  ever  derived  from  it  by  the  nation 
in  occupation.  While  in  the  hands  of  the  French,  there 
is  no  doubt  of  its  having  been,  at  times,  used  as  a  prison  ; 
its  close  and  impregnable  dungeons,  where  light  was 
not  admitted,  and  where  remained,  for  many  years  after, 
clear  traces,  and  a  part  of  the  ready  instrumonta  for  exe- 
cution, or  for  murder.  During  the  American  revolution, 
it  was  the  head-quarter  of  all  that  was  barbarous,  unre- 
lenting, and  cruel.  There,  were  congregated  the  leaders 
and  chiefs  of  those  bands  of  murderers  and  miscreants, 
that  carried  death  and  destruction  into  the  remote  Ame- 
rican settlements.  There,  civilized  Europe  revelled  with 
savage  America  ;  and  ladies  of  education  and  refinement 
mingled  in   the   society  of  those   whose   only  distinction 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  215 

Fort  Niagara  —  Mess-house. 

was  to  wield  the  bloody  tomahawk  and  scalp ing-knife. 
There,  the  squaws  of  the  forest  were  raised  to  eminence, 
and  the  most  unholy  unions  between  them  and  officers 
of  the  highest  rank,  smiled  upon  and  countenanced. 
There,  in  their  strong  hold  like  a  nest  of  vultures, 
securely,  for  seven  years,  they  sallied  forth  and  preyed 
upon  the  distant  settlements  on  the  Mohawk  and  Sus- 
quehanna. It  was  the  depot  of  their  plunder  ;  there 
they  planned  their  forays,  and  there  they  returned  to 
feast,  until  the  hour  of  action  come  again. 

Fort  Niagara  is  in  the  State  of  New  York,  and  stands 
on  a  point  of  land  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  Niagara  river.  It 
is  a  traditionary  story,  that  the  mess-house,  which  is  a 
very  strong  building  and  the  largest  in  the  fort  was, 
erected  by  stratagem.  A  considerable,  though  not  power- 
ful body  of  French  troops,  had  arrived  at  the  point. 
Their  force  was  inferior  to  the  surrounding  Indians,  of 
whom  they  were  under  some  apprehensions.  They  ob- 
tained consent  of  the  Indians  to  build  a  wigwam,  and 
induced  them,  with  some  of  their  officers,  to  engage  in 
an  extensive  hunt.  The  materials  had  been  made  ready, 
and,  while  the  Indians,  were  absent,  the  French  built. 
When  the  parties  returned,  at  night,  they  had  advanced 
so  far  With  the  work,  as  to  defend  themselves  against  the 
savages,  in  case  of  an  attack.  In  progress  of  time,  it  be- 
came a  place  of  considerable  strength.  It  had  its  bastions, 
ravines  ;  its  ditch  and  pickets  ;  its  curtains  and  counter- 
scarp ;  its  covered  way,  draw  bridge,  raking  batteries  ; 
its  stone  towers,  Inberatory,  and  magazine;  its  mess-house, 
barracks,  bakery,  and  blacksmith  shop  ;  and,  for  worship, 
a  chapel,  with  a  large  ancient  dial  over  the  door,  to  mark 
18* 


216  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Fort  Nia^rara. 

the  hourly  course  of  the  sun.  It  was,  indeed,  a  little  city 
of  itself,  and  for  a  long  period  the  greatest  place  south  of 
Montreal,  or  west  of  Albany.  The  fortifications  origin- 
ally covered  a  space  of  about  eight  acres.  At  a  few  rods 
from  the  barrier  gate,  was  the  burying  ground  ;  it  was 
filled  with  memorials  of  the  mutability  of  human  life  ; 
and  over  the  portols  of  the  entrance  was  painted,  in  large 
and  emphatic  characters,  the  word  "REST." 

It  is  generally  believed,  that  some  of  the  distant  fort- 
resses of  France  were  often  converted  into  state  prison?, 
as  well  as  for  defensive  purposes.  There  was  much 
about  Fort  Niagara,  to  establish  the  belief  that  it  had 
been  used  as  such.  The  dungeon  of  the  mess-house, 
called  the  black  hole,  was  a  strong,  dark,,  and  dismal 
place  ;  and  in  one  corner  of  the  room  was  fixed  the  ap- 
paratus for  strangling  such  unhappy  wretches  as  fell  un- 
der the  displeasure  of  the  despotic  rulers  of  those  days. 
The  walls  of  this  dungeon,  from  top  to  bottom,  had  en- 
graved upon  them  French  names,  and  mementos  in  that 
language.  That  the  prisoners  were  no  common  persons 
was  clear,  as  the  letters  and  emblems  were  chiselled 
out  in  good  style.  In  June,  1812,  when  an  attack  was 
momentarily  expected  upon  the  fort  by  a  superior  British 
force,  a  merchant,  resident  at  Fort  Niagara,  deposited 
some  valuable  articles  in  this  dungeon.  He  took  occa- 
sion, one  night,  to  visit  it  with  a  light  ;  he  examined  the 
walls,  and  there,  among  hundreds  of  French  names,  he 
saw  his  own  family  name  engraved,  in  large  letters. 
He  took  no  notes,  and  has  no  recollection  of  the  other 
names  and  memorials  ;  he  intended  to  repeat  his  visit, 
and  to   extend    his   examination,    but   other    avocations 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  21" 


Morgan. 


caused  the  subject  to  be  neglected  ;  and  it  was  not  brought 
to  raind  again  until  of  late  years,  when  all  was  changed. 
In  further  corroberation  that  Fort  Niagara  had  witnessed 
scenes  of  guilt  and  fjul  murder,  was  the  fact  that,  in 
1805,  it  became  necessary  to  clear  out  an  old  sink  at- 
tached to  the  mess-house.  The  bones  of  a  female  were 
found  therein,  evidently,  from  the  place  where  discovered, 
the  victim  of  some  atrocious  crime. 

There  were  many  legendary  stories  about  the  fort.  In 
the  centre  of  the  mess-house  was  a  well  of  water,  but, 
it  having  been  poisoned  by  some  of  the  former  occupants, 
in  latter  years  the  water  was  not  used  ;  and  it  was  a 
story  with  the  soldiers,  and  belivcvcd  by  the  eupersitious, 
that  at  midnight  the  headless  trunk  of  a  French  general 
officer  was  often  seen  sitting  on  the  curb  of  the  old  well, 
where  he  had  been  murdered,  and  his  body  thrown  in  ; 
and,  according  to  dreamers  and  money-diggers,  large 
treasures,  both  in  gold  and  silver,  have  been  buried  in 
many  of  the  nooks  and  corners  of  the  old  fort.  Many 
applications  used  to  be  made  to  the  American  officers,  to 
dig  for  money,  and  persons  have  been  known  to  come 
from  a  considerable  distance  for  that  purpose.  Such  re- 
quests were,  of  course,  refused. 

Of  late  years,  matter  of  fact  has  been  more  strange 
than  romance.  William  Morgan  was  kidnapped  from 
the  jail  in  Canandaigua  ;  carried  in  a  post  coach,  undis- 
covered and  by  violence,  for  more  than  one  hundred 
miles,  through  a  populous  country  ;  the  perpetrators,  at 
the  time,  unsuspected  ;  was  lodged  in  the  magazine  at 
Fort  Niagara,  for  three  or  four  days  ;  and  then  was  no 
more  seen.  He  was  the  last  human  victim  ofTered  up 
in  these  recesses  of  oppression  and  blood. 


218  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

John  Carroll. 

In  the  summer  of  1839,  the  United  States  government 
commenced  to  rebuild  the  fortifications  of  Fort  Niagara, 
and  it  is  stated,  that  it  will  be  again  put  in  a  respectable, 
and  commanding  condition. 


JOHN    CARROLL. 


"  A  poor  old  soldirr 

The  very  naiuc  ihcir  loves  engage." 

In  the  palmy  days  of  Fort  Niagara,  when  the  surround- 
ing country  first  commenced  to  be  settled,  the  command- 
ing officer  was  in  all  respects  a  petty  sovereign,  not  al- 
ways ruling  with  a  light  or  easy  hand.  The  Lieutenants 
and  under  officers  were  likewise  persons  of  great  conse- 
quence, and  a  very  good  feeling  did  not  always  prevail  be- 
tween the  independent,  sturdy,  first  settlers  and  the  mili- 
tary ;  but  now  the  show  and  eclat  of  military  command 
have  vanished,  and  the  farmer,  the  mechanic  and  the 
man  of  business  fill  their  allotted  stations,  without  rivalship 
or  annoyance. 

From  many  of  the  former  residents  of  Fort  Niagara 
there  might  be  selected  characters,  a  descriptive  notice  of 
whom,  would  be  interesting  to  general  readers.  Some  for 
their  true  nobility,  some  for  their  meanness,  and  others 
for  peculiarities  especially  their  own.  But  one,  however, 
will  be  here  noticed,  and  his  rank  was  no  higher  than  that 
of  an  army  musician. 


JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL.  219 

John  CarrolL 

Whether  he  was  brolher  or  cousin  to  Carroll,  the  fa- 
mous Irish  harper,  is  not  known  ;  but,  like  him,  he  waa 
of  all  things  devoted  to  mu?ic  and  whiskey.  One  morn- 
ing, Carroll  played  the  troops,  on  paradej  a  very  sprightly 
tune  ;  the  commanding  officer  threw  up  his  window,  and 
called  out  '*  Carroll,  wbnt  tune  is  that  ?" 

"  What  the-  dcvil  ails  you,  sir?"  replied  Cnrroll. 
•'  Yt»u  old   rastc-al  !     What    tune  i3   that  .'"    the  officer 
again  vociferafcd. 

*'  What  Ihe  devil  nils  you,  sir?"  was  the  rcpponse. 
*'  Come  up  here,  I  wiU  learn  you  to  answer  me   in  that 
\\ay,"  was  next. 

Carroll  habtened  to  the  room,  but  was  very  careful  to 
Bay,  as  aoon  as  ho  opened  the  door,  "  Sir,  the  name  of 
thu  chune  is  what  the  devil  ails  you." 

"  Gj  about  your  businesj,"  said  the  Major. 
One  day,  when  Carroll  had  been  paying  his  devotions 
too  fre;jly  to  Bacchus,  in  the  use  of  his  favorite  beverage, 
nil  J  stagg,*ring  on  the  parade,  made  a  ludicrous  figure  in 
playing  the  retreat.  The  commandant  gave  hitn  a  per- 
sonal reprimand,  and  threatened  him  with  confinement. 
Carroll  was  not  then  in  eo  beggarly  a  state  as  \o  bear 
censure  patiently,  but  felt  as  great  as  his  officer,  and  as 
rich  as  a  lord.  He  first  retaliated  in  words,  but  shortly 
became  so  furious  and  ungovernable,  as  to  make  it  ne- 
cessery  to  confine  him  ;  and,  what  was  very  unusual,  he 
was  conveyed  and  locked  up  in  the  black  hole.  In  the 
middle  of  the  night,  the  most  dismal  sounds  were  heard 
from  the  place  of  his  confinement  ;  and  orders  were 
given  that  he  should  be  looked  to.  He  was  found  in  a 
piteous  condition  ;  declaring  that  he  had  been  visited  by 


220  JAUNT    TO    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

Jaunt  concluded. 

all  the  hobgoblins,  and  all  the  devils  in  existence  ;  that 
they  came  to  him  immediately  at  his  entrance,  and  had 
haunted  him  all  the  while  he  had  been  confined.  He 
begged  that  he  ''might  be  allowed  a  light,  his  fife,  and 
pen,  ink  and  paper  ;  that,  by  employing  himself  in  some 
way,  he  might  be  able  to  drive  away  the  horrid  thoughts 
and  phantoms  that  assailed  him.  His  request  was 
granted.  In  the  morning,  when  he  was  released,  and 
met  the  other  musicians,  ho  produced  them  a  tune  which 
he  said  he  had  composed  during  the  latter  hours  of  his 
confinement.  He  called  it  "  Carroll's  thoughts  on  eter- 
nity." Besides  this,  he  composed  several  marches,  waltzes, 
and  other  pieces  ;  many  of  which  possessed  considerable 
merit.  He  died  in  1812,  of  the  epidemic  which  at  that 
time  prevailed  in  the  army. 


JAUNT   TO   CANADA, 


IN    THK    VICINITY    OK    THE    FALLS;    VISIT    TO 


TAIU.E  KOCK,  BROCK'S  MONUMENT,  vScc. 


WITH    NOTICES    OF 


QUEE.NSTON,  FORT  GEORGE,  &c. 


CANADA. 


"  I'rinrrs  .ind  lords  may  (loiirisli  or  may  fade  ; 
A  broatli  can  make  them,  as  a  breath  has  made  : 
But  a  bold  peasantry,  their  coumry's  pride, 
Wht'ii  once  destroyed,  can  never  be  supplied." 

That  portion  of  Upper  Canada,  designated  in  the  dea- 
patches  of  Gen.  Brown,  as  the  peninsula  lying  between 
lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  bounded  east  on  the  Niagara 
river,  and  extending  west  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  is  one  of  the  finest  tracts  of  country  in  North 
America.  The  soil  is  fertile,  the  climate  6nIubriouH«, 
and  the  scenery  beautiful.  Besides  being  bounded  ion 
three  sides  with  navigable   water   communication,    there 

/ 


222  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Impressions  of  travellers. 

also  passes  over  it  many  fine  etreame  and  rivulets.  The 
state  of  improvemont  is  very  respectable:  the  whole  tract 
is  only  equalled  by  Western  New- York,  whose  inhabit- 
ants, in  enterprise,  are  yet  considerably  in  advance  of 
those  of  Canada.  The  settlement.?,  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Niagara  river,  took  place  during  and  immediately 
after  the  war  of  the  revolution.  On  the  American  side, 
except  at  three  points,  it  commenced  much  later,  and 
large  tracts  of  the  native  forests  are  still  remaining.  The 
first  settlers  to  this  part  of  Canada,  were  from  the  nor- 
then  and  western  borders  of  Pennsylvania,  and  New-York; 
Butler's  rangers;  the  followers  of  Sir  J.  Johnson,  and 
others,  who  preferred  the  paternal  government  of  Great 
Biitain  to  the  republican  institutions  of  the  people.  The 
proximity  of  the  two  countries,  the  same  language,  and 
similarity  of  pursuits,  have  so  assimilated  the  inhabitants, 
that  a  stranger,  not  knowing  the  political  division,  in 
passing  from  one  to  the  other,  would  still  think  himself 
among  the  same  people. 

It  was  not  so  with  Captain  Basil  Hall,  when  he  landed 
in  Canada  from  the  United  States,  and  trod  again  on 
British  ground;  his  chest  expanded  —  he  breathed  more 
free  —  the  air  seemed  purer;  and,  seeing  a  British  eoldier 
near  Brock's  monument,  he  hastened  towards  him,  and 
embraced  him  as  a  brother.  It  is  the  reverse  with  an 
American.  When  he  goes  to  Canada,  he  feels  himself 
from  home,  and  experiences  a  degree  of  constraint  to 
'  which  he  has  not  been  familiar.  With  feehnge  no  leea 
ibuoyant  than  those  of  Capt.  Hall,  when  ready,  he  returns 
tec  his  own  shore  rejoicing,  and  grateful  for  the  freedom 
whic>h  his  forefathers  won.     Still,  Americans  always  leave 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  223 

Tlie  Ferry. 

Canada  pleased  with  the  country,  and  gratified  with  the 
civility  with  which  they  are  usually  treated.  The  sensa- 
tions that  animate  both  Americana  and  Britons  in  passing 
into  a  foreign  land,  though  apparently  dissimilar,  yet  arise 
from  the  same  source  —  love  of  country  —  of  home,  and 
veneration  for  long  cherished  institutions. 


VIEW    FROM    THE    STAIRS. 

"  And  hark !  the  bugle's  mellow  strain. 

From  hill  to  hill  is  ringing  -, 
And  every  zephyr,  o'er  the  plain, 

The  joyful  note  is  bringing. 
The  eagle  from  his  eyry  darts. 

To  hear  the  flying  numbers  • 
And  echo,  in  her  grotto,  starts, 

Awakened  from  her  slumbers." 

The  party  of  travellers  arc  at  the  top  of  the  bank,  and 
commence  the  descent  of  the  long  flight  of  stairs,  in  order 
to  cross  the  river.  They  stop  at  the  foot  of  the  first  flight, 
and  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  Falls,  and  the  river  below. 
The  view  below  extends  about  two  miles,  where  the  wa- 
ters again  break  into  billows,  and  white  with  foam,  seem 
to  sink  into  some  subterraneous  cavern,  as  they  disappear 
behind  the  projecting  cliffs. 

Inquiry  is  often  made,  "  How  was  the  bank  descended 
before  the  stairs  were  built?" 

The  descent  was  made  by  means  of  the  Indian  ladder, 
half  a  mile  further  down  the  river,  and  here,  by  clinging 
19 


224  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Tei-ilous  descent  of  the  ladder. 

to  the  rocks  and  shriibe.  The  next  improvement  was  a 
ladder,  eighty  feet  long,  placed  nearly  perpendicularly 
against  the  bank.  Last  war,  it  was  thrown  down.  The 
same  year  that  peace  was  proclaimed,  and  before  another 
ladder  was  erected,  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  from 
Boston,  visited  the  Falls;  and,  incredible  as  it  may  appear, 
descended  and  ascended  the  bank,  at  this  place,  by  holding 
fast  to  the  rocks. 

One  of  the  ladies  observes — "Their  curioaity  must 
have  been  very  intense,  to  induce  them  to  expose  them- 
selves to  60  much  danger." 

A  traveller  replies  —  "  Even  the  ladder  waa  difficult  and 
dangerous  to  many  who  descended  it  for  the  first  time. 
A  gentleman  once  described  to  me  his  passing  down  the ' 
ladder  in  the  following  terms:  *  When  I  was  a  youth,  I 
visited  the  Falls,  in  company  with  a  lad  of  about  my  owu 
age.  It  was  in  1808.  "We  caine  to  the  top  of  the  bank, 
and  after  viewing  the  great  scene  from  above,  we  recon- 
noitered  the  prospect  below,  and  the  means  of  getting 
down.  I  became  very  anxious  to  descend,  but  the  view 
was  much  more  wild  and  terrific  than  at  present;  and  I 
had  some  slight  apprehensions.  I  desired  my  companion 
to  accompany  me,  but  he  declined.  I  had  not  been  used 
to  climbing  or  descending  ladders,  and  such  wild  scenes 
were  not  familiar.  I  concluded  to  venture,  and  commen- 
ced to  go  down,  I  soon  discovered  that  every  step  I 
descended,  I  had  to  hold  on  still  more  firmly;  but  down  I 
got.  I  then  threaded  my  way  along  the  rough  and  slip- 
pery path  to  the  water's  edge,  and  thence  to  the  mist  and 
falling  water.  It  was  a  chaotic  scene  to  me;  the  water 
poured  from  above;   the  mists  rushed  over,  and  the  Falls 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  225 

Perilous  descent  of  the  ladder. 

roared.  I  felt  as  if  buried  alone  ia  the  deep  and  roeky 
chasm.  I  looked  up,  and  saw  my  companion,  no  larger, 
apparently,  than  an  infant.  Like  the  first  travellers  who 
visited  the  Falltj,  and  reported  them  to  be  six  hundred 
feet  high,  to  me  the  bank  and  Falls  appeared  no  Ices;  and 
their  actual  height  I  did  not  then  know.  I  glanced  at 
the  long  ladder  standing  against  the  rocks,  which  I  had 
again  to  ascend,  and  became  oppressed  with  fear;  and 
thought,  if  once  safe  on  the  upper  bank,  that  I  would  not 
soon  again  be  caught  in  that  horrid  place.  At  length  I 
slarlod  up;  1  reached  the  ladder,  and  began  the  ascent.  I 
looked  flbove;  the  height  appeared  almost  interxninable.  I 
cast  my  eyes  below;  my  head  became  dizzy.  1  found  it 
my  only  security  to  direct  my  eyes  in  front,  against  the 
black  and  projecling  rocks.  My  feet  touched  the  ladder 
with  weak  and  unsteady  steps,  and  my  hands  clinched  it 
with  my  utmost  strength.  When  I  successively  let  go  to 
take  another  hold,  it  seemed  as  if  all  power  was  gone,  or 
as  if  a  heavy  load  was  attached  to  my  arms  to  keep  them 
from  rising.  On  1  went,  my  eyes  still  directed  against 
the  rocks,  and  exerting  my  strength  almost  to  exhaustion. 
I  reasoned  with  myself,  and  endeavored  to  fcubdue  the 
apprehensions  that  overcame  me;  I  thought  of  the  folly  of 
my  fears,  and  that  it  required  but  a  slight  exertion  to  hold 
to  the  ladder;  and  that  there  was  no  necessity  of  grasping 
it  with  such  death-like  energy.  If  it  was  twenty  times 
as  high,  I  thought  I  could  ascend  it.  At  once  I  attempted 
to  be  lees  exercised,  and  took  hold  of  the  rungs  carelessly; 
but,  if  I  had  not  instantly  grasped  them  with  all  my  might, 
I  should  have  fallen  to  the  bottom;  and  it  required  all  the 
strength  I  was  master  of,  to  recover  my  position.     I  found 


226  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Convenience  for  travellers. 

that  I  had  vainly  flattered  myself;  and  with  more  and 
more  difficulty  did  I  rise,  and  more  firmly  was  I  obliged  to 
hold.  Though  requiring  but  about  five  minutes  to  make 
the  ascent,  it  appeared  to  be  the  labor  of  half  an  hour,  at 
least.  At  length  I  reached  the  summit,  and  with  joy  I 
once  more  found  myself  on  level  land.  I  advanced  to- 
wards my  companion,  who  was  seated  on  a  rock  at  a 
short  distance,  but,  to  my  surprise,  my  legs  refused  their 
office,  my  knees  bent  under  me,  and  I  barely  succeeded  in 
walking.  I  rallied  myself,  and  determined  to  walk  erect, 
but  in  spite  of  every  effort  to  the  contrary,  my  knees 
continued  for  some  minutes  to  give  way;  and  I  was  con- 
vinced that  I  had  been  greatly  frightened.  I  afterwards 
frequently  descended,  but  never  again  with  such  emotions.* 
It  was  certainly  a  hazardous  way  of  descending  the  bank, 
and  particularly  for  ladies  and  persons  of  weak  nerves. 
The  public  are  much  indebted  for  the  present  conveniences 
afforded  to  visiters,  and  for  nothing  more  than  the  differ- 
ent staircases." 

The  guide  observes —  "It  is  well  thought  of  by  some, 
and  they  are  willing  to  pay  for  the  many  accommodations 
they  receive:  others  think  that  these  conveniences  should 
be  erected  and  maintained  gratuitously,  and  complain  of 
being  taxed  at  every  turn." 

Traveller. —  "It  is  very  unreasonable  to  expect  that 
people  should  go  to  great  expense  in  providing  these  ac- 
commodations, and  also  give  their  personal  attention  with- 
out reward." 

Guide. —  "  There  is  another  class,  that  object  to  these 
conveniences,  they  are  hunting  for  adventure  and  hair- 
breadth  escapee,  about  the    Falls  ;   they  wish,    on  their 


JALNT    TO    CANADA.  227 

Catlin's  Cave. 

return,  to  relate  the  imminent  danger  they  were  in,  or 
the  daring  enterprises  they  performed." 

Traveller. —  "As  to  that  matter,  there  is  room  enough 
yet.  Let  them  go  down  the  bank,  where  there  are  no 
stairs,  if  they  disapprove  of  them:  let  them  wander  under 
the  perpendicular  rocks;  pass  to  Ingraham's  cave;  take  an 
excursion  in  a  boat,  ond  pass  from  Bath  island  to  the  isl- 
ands lying  just  ^bovc  the  Falls;  swim  the  Niagara  river; 
or,  in  a  boat,  pass  to  the  rapids  below.  There  is  yet  room 
for  the  wildest  adventure  about  Niagara;  but  after  all,  the 
greater  portion  of  mankind  are  fond  of  seeing  exciting 
scenes  from  safe  positions.  And  the  various  facilities  of 
communication,  and  other  conveniences  for  strangers,  are 
worth  all  that  is  charged  for  them." 

The  stairs  that  descend  the  bank  were  built  by  and 
belong  to  Judge  Porter.  The  ferry  also,  from  the  Ameri- 
can side,  belongs  to  him:  from  the  British  side  it  belongs 
to  Samuel  Street,  Ejq.  The  first  boat  put  on  the  river 
at  this  place,  was  by  Gen.  Parkhurst  Whitney.  He  built 
the  first  stairs  down  the  bank,  and  established  the  first 
ferry. 

Having  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  the  very  fine 
view  of  the  Falls,  which  is  there  presented,  is  noticed  by 
the  party.  Thence  they  wind  around  the  eloping  bank  to 
the  landing  place;  the  boat  is  ready  to  receive  them;  and 
they  are  soon  floating  over  the  convulsed  and  agitated 
waters.  Hoods,  India  rubbers,  oil  cloths  and  umbrellas, 
are  brought  into  requisition,  to  shield  them  from  the  de- 
scending mist  that  gushes  away  from  the  falling  stream. 

Catlin's  Cave,  is  about  a  mile  below,  on  the  American 
side.  It  can  only  be  visited  by  going  along  the  bottom 
19* 


228  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Crossing  the  river. 

of  the  perpendicular  bank,  or  near  the  water's  edge. — 
Travellers  usually  employ  the  ferryman  to  take  them  in 
a  boat.  The  cave  is  about  twenty  feet  in  circumference, 
or  about  the  size  of  a  baker's  large  oven;  and  the  entrance 
just  big  enough  to  admit  the  body  of  a  man.  When  dis- 
covered, it  was  almost  filled  with  beautiful  Btalactites, 
but  they  have  been  all  removed.  Around  the  cave  are 
large  quantities  of  petrified  moss,  and  springs  of  water 
gush  out  above  and  at  the  sides  of  the  cave,  in  a  peculiar 
and  beautiful  manner. 

Bender's  Cave,  is  on  the  Canada  side,  a  little  further 
down  than  Catlin'e.  It  is  about  twenty  feet  from  side  to 
side,  is  high  enough  for  persons  to  stand  in,  and  has  a 
floor  of  pure  white  sand.  To  persons  of  leisure,  both 
caves  are  worth  visiting,  and  afford  a  pleasant  excursion. 

Before  the  bridge  to  Iris  island  was  built,  parties  used 
to  visit  the  lower  end  with  boats,  by  passing  up  between 
the  two  sheets  of  water;  some  are  still  fond  of  making  the 
trip,  as  they  advance  very  close  to  the  Falls,  which  is  to 
many  very  interesting. 

Usually,  visitors  are  greatly  delighted  with  the  view  of 
the  Falls  which  is  obtained  in  crossing  the  ferry.  To- 
wards the  centre  of  the  river,  the  mist  is  dispelled,  and 
the  prospect  of  the  immense  body  of  falling  water  is  un- 
obscured  by  any  intervening  object.  The  whole  sublimity 
of  the  scene  is  displayed.  Besides  this,  the  eddies  are 
strong,  the  waters  dance  round  the  boat,  the  boat  itself 
rocks  and  bounds  along,  and  some  of  the  obtrusive  waves 
dash  over  upon  the  passengers.  The  ladies  become  alarm- 
ed; but  they  hardly  have  time  to  inquire  if  there  is  not 
danger,  before  the  dashing  of  the  waves  has  ceased,  the 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  229 

Village  of  Clifton. 

boat  glides  smoothly  over  subdued  and  dead  swells,  and 
soon  reaches  the  Canada  shore. 

The  passengers  step  forth  upon  the  rocks  that  line  the 
shore.  The  mighty  cataract  is  pouring  its  ocean  of  wa- 
ters before  them,  but,  if  they  are  Americans,  it  has  ceased 
to  be  the  only  curiosity,  and  their  attention  is  called  to 
persons  and  characters.  Sentries,  in  the  red  and  showy 
uniform  of  England,  are  paceing  the  rocky  shore;  or  a 
portion  of  the  British  army  may  be  observed  performing 
their  evolutions  nt  the  top  of  the  bank.  The  notes  of  the 
bugle  are  often  heard  in  the  distance,  and  sometimes  the 
martial  strains  of  the  full  regimental  band  breaks  upon 
the  traveller's  ears. 


VILLAGE    OF    CLIFTON. 

This  village  comprises  a  fine  plat  on  the  first  and  second 
rise  of  land  above  the  ferry.  Tbe  road  leading  from  the 
river  to  Drummondville  passes  through  the  centre.  It 
lies  directly  in  front  of  the  Falls,  and  commands  a  full 
view  of  the  river,  of  the  great  cataract,  and  of  the  Ameri- 
can shore. 

Clifton  House,  stands  just  at  the  head  of  the  hill  from 
the  ferry. 

Tbe  party  proceed  along  the  bank  of  the  river  until 
coming  near  a  house  containing  a  large  Camera  Obscura, 
which  beautifully  reflects  the  Falls.  To  many,  it  is  a 
new  and  pleasing  sight,  and  is  always  worth  a  visit. 


230  JAUXT    TO    CANADA. 

Table  Rock. 

Proceeding  further,  Mr.  Barnet's  mussura  attracts  their 
attention,  and  they  enter  to  see  his  curiosities.  No  per- 
Eon  who  visits  this  musuem  will  regret  the  time  or  the 
trifling  expense;  and  all  that  have  visited  it,  have  depar- 
ted pleaeed  and  gratified.  It  is  one  of  the  best  collections 
of  birds  and  animals  any  where  to  be  met  with.  They 
are  preserved  in  a  very  neat  style.  The  animals  and 
birds  are  generally  those  of  the  country,  and  look  almost 
E8  if  living.  The  birds  seem  not  to  have  lost  a  feather, 
and  appear  as  if  ready  to  raise  their  wings  to  fly.  Mr. 
Barnet  makes  his  own  preparations;  and,  for  the  beautiful 
manner  he  performs  his  work,  he  is  unexcelled.  lie  pre- 
pares for  visitors,  animals  or  birds  to  order,  or  will  sell  to 
them  out  of  his  stock  on  hand.  Besides  birds  and  ani- 
mals, there  are  many  other  curiosities  in  this  museum, 
worth  seeing.  The  party,  after  spending  half  an  hour 
very  pleasantly,  bend  their  course  towards  Table  Rock. 


TABLE    ROCK. 


•'  And  still  wiih  sound  like  Looming  peal 
From  distant  thunder  given, 
ForUi,  forth  from  out  the  dark  abyss, 
The  rushing  s;ream  is  driven." 

Although  much  of  this  rock  has  fallen  from  time  to 
time,  within  the  memory  of  many  yet  living,  still  it  pro- 
jects some  forty  or  fifty  feet  over  the  bank.  Through  a 
considerable  portion  of  it  runs  a  wide  and  deep  fissure, 
evidencing  that  it  will  not  be  many  years  before  the  outer 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  231 

Passing  under  ihe  sheet  of  water. 

portion  will  be  launched  below.  Some  years  since,  the 
person  who  kept  the  winding  stairs,  at  Table  Rock,  gave 
notice  that  on  a  certain  day,  (it  was  on  the  occasion  of 
one  of  the  vessels  going  over  the  Falls,)  he  should  put  a 
number  of  kegs  of  powder  in  the  fissure  of  the  rock,  and 
blow  it  off.  It  wns  expected  that  it  would  make  a  tre- 
mendous crash.  But  the  gentleman  who  owned  the  prin- 
cipal interest  in  the  privilege,  would  not  allow  it  to  be 
done,  as  it  would  have  put  an  end  to  the  charm  of  the 
place  —  the  visit  under  the  sheet  of  water. 

Traveller. —  "  If  the  rock  is  safe,  the  gentleman  did 
right  in  preserving  it;  but  if  it  hangs  jeopardising  the  life 
of  human  beings,  it  ought  to  be  blown  off." 

Guide. —  '*  We  arc  now  on  it,  and  you  must  judge  for 
yourselves." 

Traveller. — **  It  may  stand  for  half  a  century,  or  may 
give  way  while  we  are  talking  about  it.  It  has  no  doubt, 
too  dangerous  a  look  for  a  man  to  think  of  building  a 
residence  on,  yet,  for  a  Niagara  Falls  enthusiast,  and  I 
have  both  seen  and  heard  of  such,  it  is  just  the  spot." 


PASSING    UNDER    THE    SHEET    OF    WATER. 

*'  The  glittering  stream,  the  spray  with  rainbow  round, 
The  dizzy  height,  tlieroar,  the  gulf  profound." 

Near  to  Table  Rock,  there  is  an  establishment  at  which 
dresses  are  provided,  and  guides  furnished  to  conduct  trav- 


232  JAUXT    TO    CANADA. 

The  descent 

ellers  under  the  rock,  and  thence  under  the  sheet  of  water. 
Several  of  the  party  conclude  to  make  the  excuraion,  and 
enter  the  house.  The  lad''es  start  back  in  astonishment 
and  dismay,  as  they  see  rising  up,  apparently  from  a 
lower  apartment,  half  a  dozen  villainous  looking  charac- 
ters, arrayed  in  canvass  jackets,  and  in  India  rubber  and 
oil  cloth  cloaks;  some  with  caps  flapped  over  their  necks, 
and  others  with  tarpaulin  elouched  hats,  a  good  repreeen- 
tation  of  Italian  banditti;  but,  as  they  seemed  to  be  satur- 
ated with  wet,  and  the  water  ran  in  streams  from  them, 
it  was  no  great  stretch  of  fancy  to  imagine  them  demons 
of  the  Falls.  The  party  come  forward,  laughmg  and 
chatting  gaily;  and  the  sweet  treble  of  women's  voice, 
mixed  with  the  louder  yet  well  modulated  tones  of  the 
men,  would,  at  least,  have  passed  them  off  as  a  gay  set 
of  masqueraders.  An  explanation  soon  takes  place;  they 
prove  to  be  a  company  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  jiist  retur- 
ned from  under  the  sheet  of  water. 

Similar  dresses  were  soon  provided  for  the  new  comers. 
The  ladies  remonstrated  about  the  cow-hide  shoes,  much 
too  big,  and  other  grotesque  looking  articles  with  which 
they  had  to  array  themselves,  and  laughed  heartily  at 
each  others  odd  and  frightful  appearance. 

They  descend  the  stairs,  make  their  way  along  the 
rocky  path,  and  soon  enter  under  the  overhanging  arch 
of  Table  Rock.  In  front  is  the  sheet  of  water:  below, 
at  the  left,  is  the  river,  white  with  foam,  and  on  the 
shore  large  bodies  of  rock  that  have  tumbled  from  the 
arch  under  which  the  travellers  are  winding  their  way  ; 
and  above,  is  the  mighty  mass  divided  into  thousands  of 
fissures,  and  rocks  hanging  equipoised,   ready  eveiy  mo- 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  233 

Termination  Rock. 

inent  to  fall  and  crush  those  whose  temerity  leads  them 
through  that  dangerous  paes.  But,  aa  no  accidents  have 
happened,  visitors  may  look  danger  in  the  face,  and  movo 
cheerily  along,  not  troubling  themselves  with  any  dis- 
turbing thoughts.  They  soon  arrive  in  the  mist,  the 
rocks  become  slippery,  but  the  guide  directs  and  lends 
hie  assistance,  aeauring  them  that  there  is  no  danger. 

"  Slill  groping  Uirough  the  dark  recess,  we  find 
New  scenes  of  wonder,  to  amuse  the  mind." 

The  water,  driven  by  the  force  of  the  wind,  pours  over 
them,  and  in  spite  of  India  rubber  and  water-proof 
guardr-,  very  few  escape  being  drenched  to  the  skin.  At 
length,  it  is  announced  that  they  have  arrived  at  Ter- 
mination Rock.  There  they  stand  and  gaze  upon  the 
wonders  of  the  place,  until  the  eye  becomes  weary  with 
seeing  the  white  and  mingling  waters,  and  the  ear  tired 
of  the  deafening  sound.  Some  just  look  in,  and  cast  a 
fearful  glance  around,  and  then  hurry  away  ;  others  re- 
main for  half  an  hour,  or  more,  seemingly  enjoying  the 
territic  scene.  Visitors  usually  go  only  to  Termination 
Rock,  but  it  is  possible  to  advance  35  feet  further. 

It  is  considered  one  of  the  adventures  which  Niagara 
so  prolificly  affords,  to  go  under  Table  Rock.  And  tho 
proprietor  furnishes  a  certificate,  at  a  certain  price,  to  all 
those  who  perform  the  exploit.  A  German  prince,  who 
visited  the  Falls,  a  few  years  ago,  ofi'ered  to  pay  two 
dollars,  that  sum  being  double  the  araoimt  demanded, 
for  a  paper  certifying  that  he  had  gone  further  under  the 
Falls  than  any  other  man.  The  keeper  would  not  take 
the  bribe,  but  gave  him  the  ordinary  certiticate. 


234  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Going  over  the  Falls. 

Having  safely  returned  to  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  re- 
euraed  their  colloquy  with  the  guide,  one  of  the  party 
observes  — 

''It  would  be  a  dreadful  sight  to  behold  a  boat,  in 
which  there  were  human  beings,  coming  down  the  rapids 
and  going  over  the  Falls." 

Guide. —  "That  sight  has  never  been  witnessed;  in 
all  the  cases  that  have  occured,  the  boats  have  been 
capsized,  and  the  persons  thrown  out  in  the  rapids,  and 
were  lost  to  the  eyes  of  those  who  stood  on  the  shore 
before  they  reached  the  Falls  ;  and  it  is  generally  sup- 
posed that  they  perish  before  they  pass  over. 


GOING    OVER   THE    PALLS. 

"  What  thoughts  are  iheirs,  who,  in  the  wat'ry  detp, 
For  a  short  space  cling  to  pome  hope  forlorn. 
And  tug  for  one  more  moment  of  sweet  life — 
For  precious  and  desired  life  ?" 

In  1810,  a  largo  boat,  loaded  with  upwards  of  200 
barrels  of  salt,  was  sailing  up  the  river,  from  Schlosser. 
The  wind  was  very  high,  and  the  boat  being  too  deeply 
laden,  the  swell  rolled  over  her,  and  she  sunk.  The 
mast  at  first  projected  out  of  the  water,  to  which  two  of 
the  crew  secured  themselves  ;  another,  there  being  but 
three  on  board,  seized  the  steering  oar,  on  which  he 
floated.     The  place  where  the    boat    sunk,    was  at  the 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  2:35 

(Join?  over  llie  Falls. 

upper  end  of  Navy  Island.  IL  wai3  driven  along  by  the 
force  of  the  current,  the  boat  touching  the  bottom,  and, 
03  it  paieeed  down,  sinking  deeper  and  deeper^  At  length, 
the  swells  rolled  over  those  who  were  on  the  maet,  and 
at  times  they  would  sink  from  eight,  and  then,  where  the 
river  was  not  eo  deep,  would  again  rise.  One  let  go  his 
hold,  and  made  for  the  thore,  but  soon  sunk;  the  other 
continued  his  hold  upon  the  mast,  until  lost  sight  of. 
Both  of  them,  without  doubt,  went  over  the  Falls.  The 
man  who  got  the  steering  oar,  succeeded  in  seating  himself 
on  it,  and  was  drifting  down  the  river.  A  gentleman, 
about  a  mile  from  Chippewa,  observing  him,  ran  his  horse 
to  that  village,  drove  some  men  in  a  boat,  and  jumping 
in  himself,  put  out,  lifted  the  exhausted  and  helpless  man 
with  difficulty  from  the  oar,  and  brought  him  safe  to  the 
shore.  In  their  humane  exertions  to  save  the  life  of  a 
fellow  being,  they  got  so  far  in  the  current,  as  to  come 
very  n«ar  going  over  the  Falls  them.elves.  The  spirited 
gentleman  who  was  the  means  of  saving  this  man,  was 
the  talented  and  well  known  Doct.  John  J.  Lailerty,  of 
Upjicr  Canatla. 

The  occurrence  of  persona  passing  over  the  Falls  is  so 
frequent,  that  but  a  email  part  of  the  cases  can  be  enu- 
merated. It  being  eo  very  dangerous  for  a  long  distance 
above,  it  might  be  supposed  that  people  would  be  more 
careful;  but  they  seem  to  be  heedless  of  the  risk,  and  rush 
with  imprudence  upon  the  impetuous  and  deceiving  wa- 
ters. In  1620,  two  men  were  so  neglectful  of  themselves, 
as  to  fall  asleep  in  a  boat,  at  the  mouth  of  Chippewa  creek, 
the  bow  of  which  lay  on  shore,  but  was  not  fastened.  It 
was  carried  out  in  the  stream,  and  was  seen  to  capsize  in 
'20 


236  JAUNT   TO    CANADA 

CanaJ  boat  incirlent. 

the  rapids,  when  the  men  were  thrown  out.  For  the 
space  of  thirty  years,  hardly  a  year  has  paseed  without 
hearing  of  one  or  more  persons  going  over  the  Fall& 


CANAL    BOAT    INCIDENT. 

"  DGStriiction  moves  on  yon  descending  wave, 
A  seeming  miracle  alone  can  save." 

Besides  the  many  fatal  accidents  that  have  happened, 
there  have  been  a  great  many  narrow  escapes.  Only  one, 
however,  will  be  mentioned  here. 

A  canal  boat,  in  1832,  was  going  \]p  the  river,  from 
Cliippewa.  When  two  miles  up,  the  towing  line  broke. 
The  captain  was  eick  below;  one  of  the  hands  drove  a 
horse  that  was  on  board  into  the  water,  and  he  swam 
ashore;  the  man,  ako,  jumped  overboard,  and  reached  the 
land.  Besides  the  captain,  there  was  left  on  board  no 
other  person  belonging  to  the  boat,  but  a  boy.  Of  pas- 
sengers, there  were  two  men  and  a  woman.  A  trip  over 
the  Falls  appeared  inevitable.  The  wind  was  blowing 
freshly  across  the  river,  and  the  ready  presence  of  mind 
o{  the  woman  suggested  that  some  of  the  bed  clothes 
should  be  got,  and  a  sail  erected.  No  time  was  lost,  and 
an  old  quilt  was  soon  hoisted  to  court  the  propitious  breeze. 
They  made  way  over,  but  much  faster  down.  It  was  in 
the  forenoon  of  a  fine  and  pleasant  day,  their  situation 
was  noticed  from  both  sides,  and  boats  put  out  to  their 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  237 

L'unai  bo;.l  incident. 

relief.  The  persons  were  taken  off  juet  before  reaching 
the  rapids.  A  dog  only  was  left  to  pursue  the  perilous 
navigation.  The  boat  passed  down  near  the  American 
shore,  north  of  Iris  island.  The  dog  remained  on  deck, 
until  she  entered  the  rapids;  and  then,  as  she  struck,  and 
heaved,  and  bounded  over  the  rocks,  he  would  run  below, 
look  out  of  the  cabin  door,  then  jump  on  deck,  and  cast 
his  eyes  upon  the  water,  doing  as  much  as  any  eailor  could 
in  euch  a  situation.  To  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  of 
Niagara  Fall?,  the  boat  came  suddenly  and  unexpectedly 
hurrying  along  the  rapids.  It  was  not  known  to  them 
whfthcr  there  were  any  persons  on  board  or  not.  It  was 
the  ecason  when  the  cholera  prevailed  at  Chippewa,  Buf- 
falo,  Tonawanda,  and  through  the  whole  course  of  the 
Erie  canal.  It  was  common,  at  many  places,  when  in- 
fected persons  were  found  to  be  on  board  of  vessels  or 
boats,  to  cause  the  craft  to  be  anchored  out  in  the  stream. 
It  was  the  general  impression  that  this  was  an  infected 
boat,  and  that  it  was  probable  that  there  were  several 
miserable  wretches  below.  The  old  quilt  hanging  out, 
and  the  filthy  and  dismal  appearance  of  the  boat,  confirm- 
ed the  impression.  With  these  opimons,  to  the  specta- 
tors the  scene  was  painfully  interesting,  as  the  boat  groaned 
and  drove  along,  every  moment  expecting  that  it  would  be 
broken  to  pieces.  It  however  made  a  lodgment  on  the 
rocks,  just  above  the  bridge  that  leads  to  the  island;  and  a 
brave  African  dashed  into  the  water  with  a  rope,  and 
secured  it  to  the  shore.  The  boat  was  not  badly  damaged, 
and  was  afterwards  hauled  out  and  transported  half  a  inila 
by  land,  repaired,  and  again  launched  upon  the  wafer. 
The  building  standing  on  Table  Rock,  is  for  the  pur- 


238  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Concert  House. 

pose  of  forcing  water  to  the  village,  or,  as  it  was  called, 
the  City  of  the  Falls. 

The  first  house  on  the  hill,  after  passing  Mr.  Barnet's 
mueeum,  is  called  the  Concert  House.  It  was  erected  for 
the  double  purpose  of  being  used  as  a  bath  house  and  for 
concerts  and  assemblies.  In  the  summer  of  1838,  it  was 
a  barracks  for  soldiers;  and  a  beautiful  display  of  white 
canvas  tents  along  the  green  bank,  which  were  occupied 
by  the  forty-third  regiment,  added  considerably  to  the 
scenery  about  the  Falls.  These  troops  had  every  week  a 
sham  fight,  making  a  handcome  sight,  exceedingly  novel 
and  interesting  to  American  visitors. 

Guide. — "Having  passed  over  all  the  great  views,  it 
is  customary  to  inquire  of  travellers  —  which  they  prefer, 
the  American  views  of  the  Falls,  or  the  Canadian  ?" 

Traveller. — "  I  perceive  that  it  is  true,  there  is  in  Can- 
ada one  grand  unvaried  view,  which  surpasses  any  single 
view  on  the  American  side:  but  there  is  not  that  variety, 
that  enchanting  shifting  of  the  scene,  that  occurs  as  we 
pass  along  on  the  American  shore  and  islands." 

While  the  party  are  yet  lingering  around  Table  Rock, 
pometimes  gazing  on  the  Falls,  making  inquiries,  and  des- 
canting upon  the  surrounding  scenery,  several  objects  are 
brought  to  their  notice. 

The  island  just  above  the  Falls,  and  lying  nearly  level 
with  the  water,  is  called  Long  island.  By  damming  the 
water  from  the  side  next  the  main  shore,  a  slight  injury  is 
done  to  the  prospect. 

The  island  about  half  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  which 
hugs  in  close  to  the  shore,  and  around  which  a  small 
branch  of  the  Niagara  passes,  is  called  Round  island,  and 
eometim.es  Cynthia  island. 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  239 

Samuel  Street,  Esq.  — Col.  Clark. 

The  dwelling  house  embowered  in  trees,  below  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  and  beyond  the  milla  which  are  seen  at 
the  side  of  the  river,  is  the  residence  of  Samuel  Street, 
Esq.  an  American  gentleman,  long  resident  in  Canada. 

The  house  just  discernible  on  the  hill  beyond  Mr. 
Street's,  was  the  residence  of  Col.  Thomas  Clark,  now 
deceased,  and  long  the  partner  of  Mr.  Street.  He  was 
a  Scotchman,  ajid  represented  in  himself  an  excellent 
specimen  of  Scotch  nationality.  In  his  youth,  he  was  as 
strong  and  hardy  as  his  own  native  mountains.  At  an 
early  period,  he  performed  the  extraordinary  feat  of  walk- 
ing from  the  Falls  of  the  Genesee  river  to  Black  Rock, 
on  the  Niagara,  in  one  day.  He  started  a  little  before 
sunrise,  and  arrived  at  Black  Rock  before  nine  at  night, 
having  travelled  the  whole  distance  on  an  Indian  path. 
He  was  a  man  of  great  capacity  in  business,  and  very 
exact  and  regular.  When  travelling,  a  few  years  since, 
in  company  with  the  author,  although  he  was  then  worth 
millions,  the  Colonel  was  observed  to  make  an  entry  in  a 
pocket  memorandum  book;  and  he  remarked  at  the  time, 
'*  I  have  never  spent  a  sixpence  without  making  a  regular 
entry  and  account  of  it,  and  I  do  so  still."  He  left  a  great 
estate  to  three  already  wealthy  maiden  sisters  in -Scotland, 
and  Canada,  (where  his  wealth  had  been  made,)  was  for- 
gotten in  his  will. 

At  the  upper  end  of  Round  island,  is  the  place  called 
Bridgewater.  There  was  once  on  this  spot  extensive 
mills,  and  quite  a  little  village.  The  works  had  been 
erected  at  great  expense,  and  much  labor  bestowed  upon 
the  bank  to  prevent  slides;  but  during  the  last  war,  the 
hand  of  destruction  was  stretched  over  the  rising  prospects 
20* 


240  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Burning  Spring. 

of  the  place,  and  the  mills  and  most  of  the  houses  of  the 
village  were  burnt.  Since  then,  it  has  been  abandoned, 
and  almost  forgotten.  There  is  now  nothing  interesting, 
but  the  burning  spring.  Of  late  years,  the  water  of  the 
river  is  so  high  as  to  cover  the  spring.  When  it  is  in  a 
state  to  collect  the  gas,  travellers  very  generally  go  to  it. 

Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  is  Chippewa,  a  village  of 
considerable  consequence,  and  more  noted  from  its  con- 
tiguity to  the  great  battle  which  took  place  in  lfel4.  It 
was  fought  just  above  the  town,  and  the  ground  is  now 
imdistinguishable  in  any  way  except  by  fields  and  enclo- 
sures. In  the  winter  of  1837 — 3,  Chippewa  was  the 
scene  of  action  of  McNabb'g  forces.  There  they  erected 
batteries,  whence  shells  and  rockets  w^ere  thrown  on  Navy 
island. 

The  party  now  pass  from  Table  Rock,  and  if  they 
conclude  to  remain  for  some  time  in  Canada,  they  go  to 
the  Clifton  House;  and  at  their  leisure  visit  Drumniond- 
ville  — go  to  the  Whirlpool  on  the  British  side,  which  is 
four  miles  —  to  Brock's  monument  and  Queenston,  eight 
miles  —  Niagara  and  Fort  George,  fourteen  miles.  If 
they  conclude  to  return  to  the  American  shore,  they  take 
a  new  route  back,  by  rising  the  hill  near  where  stood  the 
Pavilion,  and  thence  pass  on  to  Drummondville,  and 
round  to  the  ferry. 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  241 


Citv  of  the  Falls. 


THE    CITY    OF    THE    FALLS. 

The  property  of  William  Forsyth,  comprising  about 
four  hundred  acres  of  land,  and  lying  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Falls,  was  purchased  some  years  since  by 
Thomas  Clark,  Samuel  Street,  and  a  number  of  other 
gentlemen.  The  grounds  were  laid  out  into  squares  and 
streets,  suitably  for  the  accommodation  of  a  large  city. 
An  act  of  incorporation  was  talked  of,  in  which  foreigners 
were  to  be  allowed  some  special  privileges,  and  measures 
were  taken  for  the  encouragement  of  those  disposed  to 
purchase  and  build.  Some  sales  were  made.  For  a  while 
the  prospect  was  favorable,  and  several  advantages  were 
offered  to  induce  people  to  make  investments;  and  more 
would  have  done  so,  but  the  proprietors  becoming  lax  in 
their  measures,  improvements  stopped,  and  the  place  has 
been  stationary  for  some  years.  As  it  is  a  commanding 
situation,  on  a  dry  and  pleasant  soil,  and  enjoys  some  of 
the  finest  prospects  in  the  world,  it  only  requires  the  en- 
couragement which  the  proprietors  can  well  afford,  to 
have  it  go  ahead  at  any  time  they  may  think  proper  to 
determine.  It  has  around  it  a  flourishing  coimtry,  thickly 
populated  by  wealthy  freeholders,  whose  farms  are  in  a 
high  state  of  cultivation. 


242  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 


Drummondville. 


DRUMMONDVILLE. 

"  What  booti?  the  oft  repeated  tale  of  strife, 
The  fcabt  of  vultures,  and  the  waste  of  life." 

This  flourisliing  village  stands  on  the  ground  on  which 
the  mis-named  battle  of  Bridgewater  took,  place.  It  is 
more  properly  known  as  the  battle  of  Lundy's  Lane. — 
After  the  battle,  the  American  dead  were  thrown  into  a 
heap  and  burnt  —  and  the  Indians  carried  some  of  the 
wounded  who  were  yet  alive  to  share  the  same  fate,  but 
were  stayed  in  their  inhuman  conduct  by  the  exertions 
of  the  British  soldiers.  Of  one,  it  is  related,  that  seeing 
an  Indian  dragging  a  wounded  American  to  the  flames, 
who  was  begging  for  his  life,  he  despatched  the  Indian, 
threw  his  body  into  the  heap,  and  saved  the  American. 
This  was  the  greatest  battle  which  took  place  on  the 
frontier.  The  report  of  the  cannon  was  heard  for  the  dis- 
tance of  a  hundred  miles,  and,  to  persons  within  four  or 
five  miles,  the  incessant  discharge  of  fire-arms  sounded 
like  the  continuous  roll  of  a  drum.  The  roar  of  the  Falls 
was  not  heard  amid  this  din  of  human  combat. 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  243 


(General  Brock's  Monument. 


^ 


BROCKS    MONUMENT. 

"  Awny,  away,  earth's  pageantry, 
Her  brightest  gems  are  dhn  ; 
And  glittering  wealth,  and  power  and  fame, 
How  worthless  now  to  him." 

Brock's  Monument  stands  on  Queenston  heights,  a 
short  distance  south  of  the  village.  It  is  built  of  a  soft 
whitish  stone,  taken  out  of  the  mountain  near  by.  The 
base  is  twenty  feet  square,  the  shaft  round,  and  rises  one 
hundred  and  twenly-six  feet  from  the  ground.  It  cost 
about  eight  thousand  dollars,  and  was  buiU  at  the  expense 
of  the  Provincial  government.     It  occupies  a  beautiful  and 


244  JAUNT    TO    CANADA. 

Extensive  prospect. 

commanding  site,  and  overlooks  Fort  Grey,  on  the  Amer- 
ican side,  a  large  battery  erected  mainly  to  cover  the 
attack  upon  Queenston,  and  the  roads  and  cultivated 
farms  beyond  the  opposite  heights  for  several  miles.  Be- 
low lies  Lewiston,  with  its  streets  and  orchards  spread  out 
before  the  spectator  as  a  garden,  and  from  which  passes 
to  the  east  the  celebrated  Ridge  Road.  Thence  along 
the  brow  of  the  heights,  the  prospect  extends  north  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  across  Lake  Ontario  to  its  north- 
ern bounds.  On  the  Canada  side,  the  view  is  equally 
fine.  The  beautiful  little  village  of  St.  Davids,  distant 
but  a  few  miles  at  the  west,  peeps  out  from  under  the 
diverging  hills  ;  and  far  beyond,  a  large  tract  of  level 
country,  interspersed  with  improved  farms,  but  generally 
appearing  like  a  dense  forest,  to  the  shore  of  the  lake. 
Below,  and  directly  in  front,  is  the  antique  looking  village 
of  Queenston,  and  the  Niagara  river,  bending  its  serpen- 
tine course  to  the  lake,  and  forming  the  boundary  of  two 
great  nations.  At  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  the  Ameri- 
can side,  rise  the  fortifications  of  old  Fort  Niagara,  and 
where  is  beheld  waving  in  the  breeze  the  star  spangled 
banner  of  liberty.  On  the  British  side,  is  the  town  of 
Niagara  and  Fort  George,  where  floats  the  proud  stan- 
dard of  England. 

General  Brock  did  not  fall  on  the  spot  where  the  monu- 
ment is  erected,  but  down  the  hill,  in  a  northwesterly 
direction,  about  eighty  rods  distant,  near  a  cherry  tree, 
in  the  rear  of  Queenston.  He  was  at  the  head  of  hie 
men,  cheering  them  on  to  action.  He  was  first  interred 
in  the  northeastern  bastion  of  Fort  George,  and  a  twenty- 
four  pound  American  cannon  captured  with  Hull,  placed 


JAUNT    TO    CANADA.  245 

Destruction  of  Brock's  Monument. 

at  his  head.  After  the  monume.it  was  built,  his  remains, 
with  those  of  his  aid,  Col.  McDonald,  were  deposited  here 
with  much  pomp,  on  one  of  the  anniversaries  of  the  battle 
of  Queenston. 

To  Americans,  this  monument  must  cause  but  one  emo- 
tion —  sorrow  for  their  fellow  citizens  who  fell  in  that  ill- 
fated  battle.  One  part  of  that  badly  directed  and  bloody 
conflict,  related  by  an  eye  witness,  is  sufficient.  A  short 
distance  below  the  monument  stands  a  log  house.  To- 
wards the  close  of  the  battle,  a  portion  of  the  Americans 
were  driven  down  the  hill,  and  as  many  as  could,  crowded 
into  Ihe  house.  For  a  short  period,  they  fired  on  their 
pursuers  from  the  doors  and  windows;  but  for  some  mo- 
ments after  they  ceased  firing,  the  enemy  continued  to 
fire  in  upon  them.  This  sight,  with  the  piteous  cries  of 
our  drowning  countrymen,  who  sought  to  escape  the  car- 
nage of  that  day,  by  endeavoring  to  swim  the  Niagara, 
makes  Brock's  monument,  to  those  Americans  who  were 
eye  witncBsea  of  the  battle  of  Queenston,  no  object  of 
veneration. 

On  the  17th  of  April,  1840,  an  attempt  was  made  to 
destroy  this  memorial  of  the  gallant  Brock,  by  blowing  it 
up  with  gunpowder.  The  circular  stairs  within  the  mon- 
ument were  torn  to  pieces,  stones  were  thrown  out  of  the 
wall,  and  it  was  rent  from  the  bottom  to  the  top.  This 
act  was  attributed  to  the  noted  radical  patriot,  Benjamin 
Lett.  He  neither  admitted  nor  denied  the  charge;  but 
observed  to  those  who  spoke  to  him  about  it,  "  They  may 
lay  it  to  me." 

In  the  August  following,  a  great  meeting  of  iiie  Cana- 
dian authorities,  of  the  military  and  Canadian  subjects, 


246  JAUXT    TO    CANADA. 

Town  of  Niagara. 

was  held  at  the  monument,  to  devise  means  to  repair,  or 
rebuild  it.  An  individual  ascended  to  the  top,  and  fixed  a 
flag  on  it,  though  the  monument  was  in  a  shattered  con- 
dition. 

Contrary  to  the  opinion  of  many  who  had  seen  Brock's 
monument  since  the  attempt  was  made  to  blow  it  up;  who 
supposed,  that  though  shattered,  it  might  yet  stand  for 
many  years,  in  the  month  of  February,  1841,  a  part  of  it 
fell,  and  it  is  now  left  a  perfect  ruin. 


TOWN    OF    NIAGARA. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlement  in  Canada.  It  ier 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Lake  Ontario.  It  once  had  the 
prospect  of  being  an  important  place,  and  had  all  the  ad- 
vantages that  insure  prosperity;  but  it  has  not  advanced 
as  was  expected.  Many  of  its  most  wealthy  and  enter- 
prising men  have  carried  their  business  and  resources  to 
other  places;  others  appear  to  have  slumbered  over  the 
advantages  which  they  enjoyed  at  home,  and  suffered 
their  neighbf)rs  to  advance  ahead  of  them.  Still  it  is  a 
place  of  considerable  wealth,  more  enterprise  is  evinced, 
and  from  its  fine  location,  it  must  eventually  arrive  to 
eminence  and  respectability. 


MISCELLANEOUS  NOTICES. 


MEDICINAL    VIRTUES    OF    THE    AIR    AT    NIAGARA 
FALLS. 

This  may  appear  startling,  though  it  is  indeed  nothing 
more  than  what  is  admitted  by  all  who  have  spoken  or 
thought  on  the  subject.  While  some  waters  possess  pro- 
perties, the  medical  virtues  of  which  are  admitted,  others 
are  deleterious.  So  with  airs;  while  some  are  destructive 
to  animal  life,  others  are  ambrosial,  grateful,  and  invigor- 
ating. That  there  is  not  only  a  salutary  and  exhilarating 
quality  in  the  atmosphere  of  Niagara  Falls,  but  also  supe- 
rior medical  virtues,  is  believed  by  many.  No  epidemics 
have  prevailed  here.  When  the  cholera  raged  through  all 
the  country,  no  case  occurred  within  the  domain  of  the 
misty  cloud.  Here  there  are  no  poisonous  vapors  arising 
from  stagnant  pools;  no  miasma  from  marshes  or  swamps; 
but  the  moisture  with  which  the  air  is  saturated,  is  driven 
up  from  the  fall  of  broken  waters  —  not  raised  by  the  in- 
fluences of  heat  or  cold,  but  purified  and  buoyant,  it  floats 
away  from  the  clear  stream,  and  we  breathe  it,  charged 
as  it  is  with  ten  thousand  particles,  fresh  from  nature's 
great  alembic.  We  not  only  see  and  hear,  but  feel,  and 
taste,  and  breathe  the  Falls. 
21 


248  MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 

Geology  of  Niagara  river. 


GEOLOGY   OF    NIAGARA    RIVER. 


Here  is  a  great  field  for  geological  and  mineral  re- 
search. The  rocks  in  many  places  are  laid  bare  to  a  great 
depth,  and  many  of  the  most  interesting  spots  for  such 
examinations  have  never  yet  been  visited,  owing  to  the 
difficulty  of  getting  to  them.  Slight  notices  of  the  form- 
ation and  character  of  the  rocks  in  this  neighborhood, 
have  been  laid  before  the  public,  by  the  New-York  State 
geologists,  but  it  is  not  known  that  they  have  devoted 
much  time  to  a  careful  examination.  There  are  known 
to  be  saline  waters  at  the  Five  Mile  Meadows,  and  sulphu- 
rous and  gas  springs  upon  the  mountain.  Argillaceous 
iron  ore  is  found  on  the  bank  of  the  river;  many  specimens 
of  lead  ore  are  obtained,  and  in  one  instance  a  large  lump 
of  several  pounds  was  picked  up.  Common  and  water 
lime,  and  building  stone  are  abundant,  and  gypsum  is  also 
supposed  to  be  plentiful.  In  a  late  examination  along  the 
river,  at  a  bare  part  of  the  bank,  where  it  is  exposed  for 
two  hundred  feet,  there  was  observed  to  be  in  one  of  the 
lower  strata  of  the  rocks,  of  several  feet  in  width,  a  dark 
streak,  much  resembling  lead  or  coal.  It  may  be  neither; 
but  the  careful  examination  along  the  borders  of  the  river, 
will  undoubtedly  lead  to  some  interesting  results. 


MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES.  249 

Mineral  specimens. 


MINERAL    SPECIMENS. 

Large  quantities  of  beautiful  specimens  have  often  been 
found,  or  broken  out  of  the  rocks,  around  the  Falls.  Many 
of  them  are  offered  for  sale  to  visitors.  Some  of  them  are 
very  valuable. 

Niagara  Falls  has  also  become  a  mart  for  canes  and  In- 
dian curiosilics;  moccasins,  worked  with  beads  and  porcu- 
pine quills;  Indian  work  pockets,  needle  cases,  war  clubs, 
bark  canoes,  maple  sugar  in  fancy  boxes  ornamented  with 
quills,  &c. 


JOHN    DOWNING,    AND    THE    WHIRLPOOL. 

"  He  lives  !  from  out  the  whirlpool's  depths, 
From  out  a  wat'ry  grave  !" 

This  is  not  the  celebrated  Jack  Downing,  but  may  be 
a  reiTiote  relative  of  the  family;  however,  he  performed 
a  voyage  which  the  navigator  of  the  Two  Follies  would 
hardly  attempt.  In  1811,  Mr.  Downing,  with  others, 
was  cutting  cedar  posts  at  the  Whirlpool,  on  the  British 
side,  for  palisades  at  Fort  George.  Th^sy  were  made  into 
small  rafts,  and  set  adrift  where  the  current  passes  out 
from  the  Whirlpool,  and  were  afterwards  picked  up  in  the 
river  between  Queenston  and  the  Fort.  While  he  waa 
fixing  Bomelhing  on  one  of  the  rafts,  the  end  lying  on  the 


250  MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 

Deatk  of  Doci.  Hungerford. 

shore,  it  dipped  into  the  water,  and  before  hie  companions 
could  help  him,  he  was  carried  out  of  their  reach.  Slowly 
the  raft  receded  from  the  shore,  passing  up  the  stream.  It 
remained  in  the  Whirlpool  and  eddies,  for  nearly  half  a  day, 
but  was  not  drawn  into  the  principal  vortex.  At  length, 
the  raft  was  thrown  so  near  the  shore,  that  his  companions 
reached  out  to  him  a  long  pole,  on  which  Mr.  D.  seized 
and  escaped  from  his  perilous  situation. 

He  said  that  he  was  carried  round  with  his  raft  seventy 
times.  At  one  time  he  was  on  the  outer  circle  of  a  whirl- 
pool which  descended  to  the  centre  at  least  thirty  feet. 
There  he  thought  he  should  be  engulphed,  and  he  consid- 
ered death  as  certain,  in  an  instant;  but  very  fortunatc-ly, 
and  singularly,  his  raft  was  struck  with  a  current  which 
carried  it  in  a  contrary  direction,  and  finally  brought  it  to 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  t-hore. 


DEATH    OF    DOCT.    HUNGERFORD. 

"  Oh  death  !  slern  tyrant  of  our  fleetinfr  hours, 
To  thousanrl  shapes  thou  trick'st  thine  antic  powers  ; 
Youth,  manhood,  age,  are  all  alike  to  thee  ; 
Creation  bends  beneath  thy  s'.ern  decree." 

Many  narrow  escapee,  and  many  sad  and  serious  acci- 
dents have  occurred  around  the  Falls;  but  at  length  it  has 
become  the  painful  duty  of  the  annalist  to  record  an  inci- 
dent of  a  new  and  fatal  character.  Since  the  first  discov- 
ery of  these  profoundly  interesting  yet  fearful  scenes, 
visitors  have  with  impunity  rambled  above  and  beneath 


MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES.  251 

Dcaili  of  Doct.  Hungerford. 

the  overhanging  rocks;  and  though  the  danger  was  evi- 
dent to  the  eye,  no  accident  had  happened,  no  event  had 
taken  place  to  warn  thera  of  the  hazard  to  which  they 
were  expofscd. 

About  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  of  the  twenty-seventh 
of  May,  1839,  Doctor  Ilungerford,  of  Troy,  N.  Y.  with 
Mr.  Nile,  of  Columbus,  O.  and  Mr.  Lindsey,  their  guide, 
were  viewing  the  river  and  Falls,  near  Ingraham's  cave, 
below  the  point  of  Iris  island.  Doct.  Hungerford  was 
slanding  between  the  guide  and  Mr.  Nile.  After  looking 
awhile  upon  the  scene,  the  guide  concluded  that  all  had 
been  seen  at  thot  point  interesting  to  the  travellers,  and 
remarked  that  they  would  now  go  to  another  place.  At 
that  instant,  he  saw  the  air  filled  with  earth  and  falling 
stones;  all  endeavored  to  spring  aside.  Doct.  Hungerford 
fell.  Mr.  Lindsey  immediately  raised  him,  and,  with  the 
ossistance  of  Mr.  Nile,  bore  him  to  a  more  secure  place. 
They  were  not  at  first  aware  of  the  fatal  injury  he  had 
received.  The  rocks  had  struck  him  on  the  back  of  the 
heod,  and  o«  hie  neck  and  shoulders.  He  breathed  but  a 
few  times,  ond  expired  without  a  groan  or  the  least  con- 
vulsive motion.  Mr.  Lindsey,  too,  received  several  severe 
contusions,  and  had  his  coat  and  pantaloons  torn,  but  did 
not  notice  his  own  bruises  until  some  time  after. 

About  half  an  hour  before,  the  party  had  been  standing 
on  the  edge  of  the  bank  immediately  above  the  spot  where 
Doct.  Hungerford  met  his  death.  While  there,  he  was 
engaged  in  taking  notes  of  the  scene  in  his  memorandum 
book;  and,  the  last  words  he  wrote  were  — 

"  I  fear  not,  I  dread  not,  though  cataracts  oppose, 
The  rocks  that  support  me  I'll  rend  as  nay  foes." 
21* 


252  MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 

An  adventure  among  the  Rapids. 

It  is  not  wonderful  that  thig  sad  accident  should  have 
happened  ;  but  centuries  may  roll  away,  and  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  individuals  pass  and  repass  in 
safety,  as  they  hove  done,  before  such  another  melancholy 
disaster  is  again  witnessed. 


AN    ADVENTURE    AMONG    THE    RAPIDS. 

"  Be  collected  ; 
No  more  amazement :  tell  your  piteous  heart 
There's  no  harm  done." 

On  the  twenty-fifth  of  July,  1839,  an  occurrence  hap- 
pened at  the  Falls,  of  great  dramatic  effect,  and  of  much 
anxiety  and  interest  to  the  actors,  as  well  as  to  those  who 
were  lookers  on. 

The  great  rapids  which  pass  down  the  American  side, 
between  the  main  shore  and  among  the  islands,  that  lead 
directly  to  the  Falls,  have  ever  been  beheld  with  aston- 
ishment and  awe.  Upon  the  bridge  which  spans  this 
impetuous  stream,  two  men  were  at  work,  Myron  Chapin 
and  William  Murray.  A  plank  accidentally  fell  in  the 
water  on  the  upper  side  of  the  bridge;  Chapin  was  struck 
by  one  end,  and  thrown  in.  To  say  the  water  here  runs 
like  a  mill-race,  conveys  but  a  slight  idea  of  its  raging 
violence.  Murray  missed  his  companion,  but  while  he 
was  for  a  moment  wondering  in  his  mind  at  his  sudden 
disappearance,  he  cast  his  eyes  over  the  side  of  the  bridge, 
and  saw  him  struggling  in  the  water,  which  was  bearing 


MISCELLANEOUS    .NOTICES.  253 

Chapin  in  the  rapids. 

him  rapidly  along  to  the  cataract.  The  day  was  beautiful, 
the  air  was  gently  undulated  by  the  dashing  watere",  and 
possessed  all  those  refreshing  and  bracing  powers  for  which 
the  Niagara  atmosphere  has  become  so  much  esteemed. 
A  great  number  of  vieitors  were  around  the  island,  and 
several  were  passing  on  the  bridge.  A  man  contending 
with  the  driving  torrent,  pitching  over  descending  ridges, 
and  rolling  headlong  towards  the  Falls,  was  to  them  a 
sudden  and  fearful  sight.  Quicker  than  the  cry  of  '  fire!' 
the  words  flew,  "  a  man  is  off  the  bridge,  in  the  rapids, 
going  over  the  Falls!"  It  fell  like  a  shock  on  the  ear, 
and  all  hurried  to  witness  a  fellow  being  in  such  a  dread- 
ful extremity;  to  see  his  agony;  his  struggle  for  hfe;  his 
looks  of  despair  on  that  terrific  verge;  and  the  plunge  into 
the  deep  and  foaming  aby.??.  The  eyes  of  all,  as  they 
assembled,  became  rivclted  upon  him,  as  he  vainly  con- 
tended against  the  powerful  billows  which  were  bearing 
him  along  to  destruction,  apparently  so  inevitable.  It 
was  a  spectacle  of  thrilling  interest  and  anxiety  to  the 
beholders.  The  raging  waters  dashed  resistlessly  along,  and 
the  Falls  roared  their  hoaroc  and  hollow  moan,  as  he  was 
forced  over  the  descending  steps,  and  every  moment 
neared  him  to  his  fate.  A  small  island  lay  at  the  left  of 
his  downward  course,  and  a  ray  of  hope  arose  that  he 
might  reach  it.  It  was  evident  that  he  was  struggling 
for  that  isolated  spot,  A  moment  more  and  he  will  reach 
the  island,  or  pass  on  to  that  terrific  plunge  —  it  was  a 
moment  of  suspense,  in  which  the  fate  of  a  fellow  being 
would  be  determined  for  life  or  death.  He  gained  it  — 
he  rose  from  the  water,  and  stood  forth  as  one  escaped 
from   destruction.     This  isle   is  about  twenty  feet  wide, 


254  MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 

Chapin  reaches  an  island. 

and  about  thirty  feet  long,  and  is  eight  or  ten  rods  above 
the  sheet  of  falling  water:  a  small  bat  deep  channel  runs 
between  it  and  the  next  island;  the  foot  of  man  had  never 
before  pressed  upon  its  turf,  or  trod  upon  its  rocks.  Tho* 
many  had  dared  to  venture  in  the  most  dangerous  places 
among  the  rapids,  yet  this  island  had  remained  unvisited, 
and  was  considered  inaccessible.  There,  on  that  lonely 
spot,  cut  off  from  his  fellow  mea;  what  could  be  done  for 
his  relief? 

An  hour  or  more  intervened;  a  small  boat  was  got  from 
Canada;  but  who  was  to  attempt  that  dangerous  riaviga- 
tion.  Joel  R.  Robinson,  spoken  of  in  another  part  of 
this  work  as  a  most  skilful  waterman,  and  which  had  been 
written  of  him  six  months  before  this  occurrence,  had 
lately  met  with  an  accident.  His  thumb,  and  a  part  of 
his  hand,  had  been  taken  off  by  a  circular  saw,  and  tho 
wound  was  yet  in  an  unsound  state.  He  was  found,  the 
disaster  hastily  related  to  him;  and  he  proved  true  the 
words  which  had  been  spoken  of  him  in  relation  to  his 
going  over  the  Whirlpool  in  a  life  boat:  "He  will  not 
hesitate  to  attempt  it." 

He  enters  the  boat  at  the  lower  end  of  Bath  island; 
examines  with  a  careful  eye  the  oars  and  the  condition  of 
the  row-locks,  and  seating  himself  in  the  usual  position, 
with  his  back  to  the  prow  of  the  boat,  he  shoves  off  into 
the  white  and  fosming  waters.  He  bends  his  way  against 
the  strong  current  around  the  island  to  the  northwest 
corner,  leading  to  the  Falls:  it  descends  stern  foremost; 
the  eyes  of  Robinson  are  upon  the  raging  stream,  on  the 
Falls,  the  island,  and  on  him  to  whose  relief  he  is  going. 
From  the  time  Chapin  was  precipitated  in  the  water  to 


MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES.  255 

Robinson  poes  to  his  rescue. 

his  reaching  the  island,  a  f^w  minules  only  transpired. 
It  was  not  so  with  Robinson:  in  that  strong  and  bounding 
flood  he  descended  slowly.  He  made  true  the  language 
oflhepoet:  he  *' wantoned  with  the  billows."  At  times 
he  sat  composedly  in  his  boat,  but  slightly  skimming  the 
water;  at  other  times  he  would  throw  out  all  his  powers, 
to  wrestle  with  the  driving  surges.  When  he  had  descend- 
ed a  perpendicular  pitch,  be  would  for  a  moment  repose  on 
his  oars,  and  his  boat  would  stand  spell-bound,  as  if 
chained  to  the  spot,  or  as  if  waiting  his  further  bidding. 
Thus  leisurely  he  descends,  the  spectators  beholding  his 
progress  in  breatblsES  solicitude.  The  wile  of  Chapin  too, 
had  arrived,  and  her  heart  beat  with  intense  anguish,  as 
she  witnessed  the  attempt  which  was  making  to  relieve 
her  husband. 

At  length,  after  about  fifteen  minutes,  he  nears  the 
isle;  to  reach  it  he  bprings  into  the  water;  the  force  of 
the  current  prostrates  him;  the  boat  slips  from  his  hold 
and  passes  on;  the  aspiration  dies  upon  the  lips  of  the  be- 
holders, "  he  is  gone!"  "he  is  lost!"  In  an  instant  he 
rises,  plunges  at  the  boat,  seizes  it,  bounds  into  the  seat, 
looks  collectively  around,  deliberately  takes  the  oars,  dips 
them  in  the  water,  and  in  a  moment  more,  boat  and  boat- 
man have  passed  from  eight  in  the  rear  of  the  island. 
Whether  he  had  landed,  or  whether  the  current  had  swept 
him  down,  was  uncertain.  Not  long  was  the  suspense. 
In  a  few  minutes  he  was  observed  upon  the  top  of  the 
highest  tree,  and  eevering  the  topmost  branch,  he  waved 
it  in  the  air;  while  the  excited  multitude  answered  in 
loud  and  repeated  cheers.  Before  Robinson  had  mounted 
the   tree,    Chapin    had   met   and  embraced  his  deliverer 


256  MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 

Tlieir  safe  return. 

After  securing  some  branches  of  the  trees  and  other  me- 
morials of  the  island,  they  embark  in  the  boat.  Robinson 
does  not  take  the  same  course  back  that  he  came;  but  one 
obliquely  across  the  river,  passing  through  the  rapids  that 
divide  the  islands  that  lie  north  of  Iris  island,  and  just 
above  the  Falls.  It  was  a  most  perilous  and  difficult  nav- 
igation: but  the  islands  hid  them  from  view  nearly  the 
whole  distance.  The  multitude  receive  them  with  exul- 
ting cheers  on  Iris  island;  the  wife  of  Chapin  rushes  for- 
w^ard  to  embrace  her  rescued  husband;  Robinson  distributes 
to  the  assembly  the  branches  of  evergreens  which  he  had 
torn  from  the  island;  a  spontaneous  collection  is  made  for 
him,  and  he  and  Chapin  being  placed  in  the  boat,  they 
are  triumphantly  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  the  people 
across  the  bridge  to  the  main  shore;  and  what  was  begun 
in  danger  and  imminent  hazard  of  life,  is  concluded  in 
hilarity  and  joy. 

The  small  island  on  which  Chapin  landed  has,  by  gen- 
eral consent,  received  the  name  of  Chapin's  island.  The 
next  island  lying  southwest  of  it,  and  which  is  larger,  has 
long  been  known  by  the  name  of  Robinson's  island,  he 
having  visited  it  in  1837,  in  company  with  Capt.  Kowa- 
lewski,  who  planted  the  Polish  flag  on  its  extreme  western 
point  above  the  Falls. 


MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES.  *257 


Clironolodeal  Table. 


CHRONOLOGICAL    TABLE. 


16.58.  First  autliPtitic  notice  ot'ilie  Falls. 
Hr78.  They  were  visiteil  by  Father  Hennepin. 

1(J79.  :?toi-ka<le  Fort  built  by  De  la  Salle,  on  the  present  site  of  Fort 
Niagafi. 

1711.  Earliest  date  tound  on  the  rocks  at  the  Falls. 

1712.  A  part  of  the  Tuscaroru  tribe  of  Indians  emigrated  from 

Carolina. 
1742.  Farlicsl  dale  found  on  the  trees  on  Iris  Island. 
17j9.  Battle  of  the   Uc\  il's   Hole.     Fort  Niagara  taken   from  the 

French.     French  Vessels  burnt  at  Burnt  Ship  Creek. 
1770.  f  Joals  placed  on  Iris  Island,  by  Mr.  Siedinan,  an  Englishman. 
I7'.t.).  A  shock  of  an  earilninakc  at  Niagara  Falls. 
IT'Jtj.  I'ort    Niairara  delis  ered  up  to  the  Americans.     The  British 

inhabiaiits  move  to  Canada.     At  tiiis  time  there  was  but 

one  wlii'e  family,  exclusive  of  those  at   Fort  Niagara  and 

Sriilds-cr,  in  the  territory  that  now   forms  the  county  of 

.Mi.L'ara. 
1H)I.  \  lllai:<-  of  Lewiston  surveycl  out. 
l-'O*.  'i'lie  mill'  res'-rxe,  a  s!rip  of  one  mile  along  the  Niagara  river, 

from  Fort  .Niagnra  to  Buffalo,  sold  by  the  State  of  New- 

"S Ork,  at  a  public  -^ale,  at  Albany.     Augustus  Porler,  Esq. 

pe'iles  ne  ir  the  I'alls,  and  lays  out  3Ianehesier,  afterwards 

Niajjara  Fails  villase. 
Is-IO.  IMr.  V'aleniine  and  another  person  go  over  the  Falls. 
1?-|  I.  .lolin  Dowiiiii!!  drdis  out  in  the  WJiirlpool,  and  gels  out  safel 
1-12.  UciohiT  i:J.  Baiile  of  Ueeiiston. 
Ibl3.  ."May  27.  Battle  of  Fort  (icorue. 
June  .).  Bailie  of  Siony  Creek. 
June24.  Battle  of  Beaver  Dams. 
Hec.  li).  The  British  take  Fort  Niagara  Ity  surprise,  burn  all 

the  fromier  villages,  and  lay  waste  and  depopulate  the 

country. 
Ifl4.  July  ti.  Battle  of  Clnppewa. 

Julv  2.).  Battle  of  Lumlv's  Lane. 
1817.  Fir9^bfi(li:e  buili  to  Iris  Island,  and  was  the  next  winter  car- 
ried off  bv  the  ice. 
ISl'^.  SPcond  bridge  to  the  Island,  built  lower  down  than  the  first. 

A  portioifof  Table  Hock  falls,  with  mnch  noise.     Cen.  P. 

Whiiney  builds  the  tirst  slairs  down  the  bank,  establishes 

the  first  ferry. 
1^20.  Two  men,  in  a  scow,  go  over  the  Falls. 
1>'22.  Two  men,  from  Grand  island,  go  over  the  Falls. 
Ib'Zo.  William  Chambers  and  another  man,  in  a  canoe,  gc  over  the 

Falls.    Cave  discovered  by   Mr.  Catlin,  which  bears  his 

name. 


258  MISCELLANEOUS    NOTICES. 

Chronological  Table. 

1827.  A  vessel,  called  the  Michigan,  with  aniniuls  on  board,  is  sent 

over  the  Falls. 

1828.  Another  poriioii  of  Table  Rock  falls  ;  and  in  the  same  year, 

several  large  pieces  of  the  rock  composing  the  Horse  Shoe 
Fall. 

1829.  Biddle   Staircase  built.     Schooner   Superior  sent  over  the 

Falls.     Sam,  Patch  jumps  twice  from  a  platform  erected 
below  the  bank.    Another  part  of  Table  Kock  falls. 
cl.  June  10.  Francis  Abbott  drowned  while  bathing. 
1832.  A  canal  boat  drifis  across  the  river.    Cholera  prevails  through, 
the  country  ;  no  cases  at  Niagara  Falls  village. 

1834.  July  1.5.  Mr."  Berry  Hdl  White  and  3Ir.  George  Sims  first 

enter  Ingraham's  Cave. 

1835.  3Iay  10.  A  man  went  over  the  Falls. 

1836.  Great  speculation  in  real  estate.    Two  men  in  a  skiff,  go  over 

the  Falls.    Cars  first  commence  running  on  ihe  Buffalo  and 
Niag'ira  Falls  railroad.     Alexander  goes  over  the  bank. 

1837.  Cars  conniDence  running  on  Ihe  Lockport  and  Niagara  Falls 

and  Lewiston  railroads.    Dec.  29.   Steamboat  Caroline  cut 
out  from  Schlosser,  and  burnt. 

1838.  Dec.  11.  Captain  Usher,  at  Slreel's  Point,  assassinated. 
1S39.  Feb.    19.  Pavilion  Hotel  burnt.  May  27    Doctor  Hungcrford, 

of  Troy,  killed  neur  Ingraham's   Cave,   by  sonje  falling 
rocks,  whilst  viewing  the  Falls.    July  25.  Robinson  res- 
cued Chupn  froin  the  island.      Sept.  Episcopal  Church 
burnt  near  Cl)ii;p"wa,  by  incendiaries. 
1840,  April  17.  Brock's  31onumeiit  blown  up  by  incendiaries. 


DISTANCES. 


From  the  Cataract  Hotel  and  Eagle  Tavern  to  the 

top  of  the  bank  at  the  ferry,    ....     100  rods. 

Thence  to  the  water, ^^    25  *' 

The  river,  at  the  ferry,  is  in  width,  .     .     .     .-5^   " 
From  the  water's  edge  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  in 

Canada, 96  " 

Thence  to  the  Clifton  House, 10  " 


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